Can I save this stupid underwire bra?

October 28, 2022 4:27 AM

Just my luck, the most expensive bra I own has developed a hole in a place I've never seen before in my many years of wearing underwire bras. Is there any hope? Photos linked inside.

This stupid bra cost nearly £80 and is the only lightly-padded t-shirt bra that has ever fit me right so I am desperate to save it. The store offered credit but they don't carry this style anymore and the one they recommend as a replacement doesn't work at all.

I have fairly advanced sewing skills but I wanted to see what you all thought about my plan and if you have any refinements or alternatives before I go for it.

Plan:

1. Double check the wire itself for any rough edges that might have caused the hole to begin with and file down if needed (I have a full set of needle files to use verrrry carefulllly)

2. Apply fray-check to the edges of the existing hole and try to hand-sew each layer closed with the finest needle I have, and then cover the whole hole (lol) with a small patch of cotton moleskin

3. cut a longer, narrow piece of double-faced 100% silk satin from a scrap that I have in my scrap bag- an inch long, maybe two- sew it into a tube the same width as the current underwire channel, turn it inside out so no edges are visible and turn in/sew closed each end, and hand-sew it over the hole along the current stitch lines of the channel with the fine needle, trying to use existing sewing holes as much as possible so as not to introduce new points of weakness.

I also have scraps or yardage of cotton flannel, cotton velvet, synthetic velvet, light cotton broadcloth, and probably most other things you could think of, and would be more than willing to buy fabric or other notions if needed.

I really need this bra to survive!

posted by cilantro to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (13 answers total)

Your plan sounds solid. I would be a little concerned about step 3 - make sure the ends of the tube won't irritate your breast as you wear the bra. Maybe you can source a bra supplies place to find a better alternative for the last step. This list has places all over the world:

Bra making supplies
posted by XtineHutch at 5:25 AM on October 28, 2022

Honestly I’d take a lesson from woodworking and use glue and/or fusible interfacing. More points of bonding means stronger connections and less tiny points of weakness. Flexible fabric glue exists, so I’d smooth over the wire with it rather than file anything down (less friction against the tear) and then attach the moleskin patch. Then make the tiny tube you describe but attach it with fuse tape, reinforced with tiny stitching if it seems needed.

Wacky suggestion: since you are so skilled at sewing, you could use this as an opportunity to learn how to make your own bras. Take this one apart and use it to make a pattern.
posted by Mizu at 5:29 AM on October 28, 2022 [2 favorites]

I was not expecting that hole! off the wall suggestion....but if it were me I think I'd attempt a kind of modified darning to close up the hole and strengthen it. I feel like step 3 might be more trouble than it's worth?
posted by Mrs. Rattery at 5:40 AM on October 28, 2022

That hole/tear is so small, I would just stitch it closed by hand. The fabric is likely stretchy enough to do this easily. Using fray check/glue is going to leave a spot that will rub uncomfortably.
posted by sarajane at 5:41 AM on October 28, 2022 [3 favorites]

My inclination would be to bar tack both ends of that hole so it can't easily get any bigger, but you are very focused on not adding holes, and this is basically the opposite of that.
posted by jacquilynne at 5:42 AM on October 28, 2022

I have used moleskin (for blisters) to patch underwire holes in the past, you cotton flannel might work similarly well if it's thick enough. Up to you if you want to do all that tube making work but I agree with mrs. rattery, sarajane, and jacquilynne that repairing with stitches only should do the trick.
posted by PaulaSchultz at 5:51 AM on October 28, 2022 [2 favorites]

I'd darn it with a scrap of that silk for reinforcement. I'd say that was caused by something rubbing on that spot, not your body or the wire. odd.
posted by theora55 at 6:42 AM on October 28, 2022

Fray check can be stiff and rough so I would try it first on a similar fabric and put it against your body and see if it feels pokey.

I would just smoothly satin-stitch over the whole area with embroidery floss, I think- most likely to be comfortable.
posted by nouvelle-personne at 6:51 AM on October 28, 2022 [2 favorites]

Response by poster: I have spent some time looking at it more closely and I think the inner layer I'm seeing inside the underwire channel is actually the stabilizing material that sits inside each cup against the outer side of each breast- not sure what that piece is called. Anyway it seems like it was sewn into the underwire channel to hold it in place across the bottom. It looks like it tore along the lower stitch line, and as it is slightly stiffer and rougher than the other materials in the bra maybe the slightly rough edge left when it tore is what caused the hole in the softer fabric from the inside of the main underwire channel?

The fact that something that is barely rough at all might have made the underwire channel fabric give way is making me re-think using the fray-check- it might just make things worse, as other people have noted it does make the fabric hard. The silk and moleskin were mainly to protect my skin from any roughness left from the fray-check and from any roughness or lumps left from sewing but that might all be overkill if I don't use it. I'm thinking now just to satin stitch over it (good idea, nouvelle-personne) and then to use the silk duchesse to make a cover for the satin stitching only if I find it irritates my skin.

Thanks for your ideas everyone! I may end up trying lots of them over time in my attempt to keep this bra alive as long as possible 😂
posted by cilantro at 7:07 AM on October 28, 2022 [1 favorite]

Hi! I do a lot of vintage (and modern) garment repair. Your satin stitch plan should work, but use a smooth thread, not cotton, or the repair will be rough on your skin. Silk thread would be ideal. Make sure you capture enough fabric on either side of the hole so it does just rip more.

I honestly would be tempted to do the tube patch in your original step 3, but that's probably overkill. And you can always do that later if the satin stich wears through.
posted by ananci at 9:00 AM on October 28, 2022 [3 favorites]

I agree with using silk thread if possible. It can be expensive, so you might try a thrift store to see if they have any partially used spools since you won't need much.
posted by soelo at 5:10 PM on October 28, 2022 [1 favorite]

Thirding the suggestion to use silk thread. I keep some that I use for anything that will be touching my skin and it makes a big difference.
posted by Miss Matheson at 11:48 PM on October 28, 2022 [1 favorite]

Fwiw it is often possible to find discontinued bras on eBay. You may have to set it up to search automatically & email you when the model & size you need shows up, but in my experience most do show up eventually. Given how annoying bra fitting can be, sourcing a spare may be wise even if you fix this one.
posted by needs more cowbell at 2:57 AM on October 29, 2022