Work Surface Design Feasibiliy
August 10, 2022 9:11 AM Subscribe
I would like to build a simple work surface for a small space to use for an arts and crafts station. The area would be 20"x48". The top would be hardboard on OSB, top apron a box made of 4 butt-jointed/pocket screwed 1x4s with pieces spanning the width to support the top, 3 1x4 stretchers at the bottom (Open at front for feet) and legs would be 3/4x3/4 1/16" thick aluminum angles bolted to the apron box and stringers.It would not be subject to a particularly heavy load, but I'm wondering how stable/sturdy/not prone to wracking this would be, if it would be too top heavy/tippy considering how narrow it is.
Possibly the back aluminum angle legs would extend up past the table top so a pegboard or corkboard could be mounted at the back, depending again on how that would affect stability.
Possibly the back aluminum angle legs would extend up past the table top so a pegboard or corkboard could be mounted at the back, depending again on how that would affect stability.
Extreme solution: We have a narrow tippy structure made usable by bolting the legs to a floor that we stand on while using it. Someday we’ll get around to beveling the edges of the floor panel. If you find you need this, I recommend a metal floor plate or beveling to start with, who wants to disassemble the table once they have it toe-stubby working?
posted by clew at 9:44 AM on August 10, 2022
posted by clew at 9:44 AM on August 10, 2022
Put a shelf on the bottom and store heavy stuff there!
posted by SaltySalticid at 9:46 AM on August 10, 2022 [3 favorites]
posted by SaltySalticid at 9:46 AM on August 10, 2022 [3 favorites]
Maybe some kind of angled piece that attaches to the back legs about 12" below the bottom edge and 12" in from the outside edge?
Basically, make a triangle.
Another preventive design is angling the legs themselves, though that might not be possible, given the materials. It sort of looks like maybe they're angled already?
posted by Caxton1476 at 10:01 AM on August 10, 2022 [1 favorite]
Basically, make a triangle.
Another preventive design is angling the legs themselves, though that might not be possible, given the materials. It sort of looks like maybe they're angled already?
posted by Caxton1476 at 10:01 AM on August 10, 2022 [1 favorite]
I think it'd be wobbly, I'd clone the top and use the same as a shelf a few inches off the floor (leaving room for feet), then use the 3x stringers half way between that shelf and the top. 1/16" at 3/4 seems super-light duty, might at least jump to 1/8" it's about the same price.
If it were really me-- I'd probably use 2" iron angle and do that cool (in my opinion) cut-in look for the top/shelves-- see something like the example they show here which would also let you get decently sized screws/lags into the wood without it hitting each other too.
posted by Static Vagabond at 10:10 AM on August 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
If it were really me-- I'd probably use 2" iron angle and do that cool (in my opinion) cut-in look for the top/shelves-- see something like the example they show here which would also let you get decently sized screws/lags into the wood without it hitting each other too.
posted by Static Vagabond at 10:10 AM on August 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
When my children were quite small I made them a workbench out of a single 2x10 with 2x2 legs. It was child-height, so not as tall as what you're building. It wasn't rock solid, but they used it until they got too tall, and my daughter still uses it as a bedside table. (With a vise.)
Your structure sounds rigid enough. My only concern would be the front to back depth. If it turns out not to be, a few diagonals coming down four or five inches would fix things. If it's on a solid floor and the legs are the same length I'm sure it will be stable.
posted by AugustusCrunch at 10:55 AM on August 10, 2022
Your structure sounds rigid enough. My only concern would be the front to back depth. If it turns out not to be, a few diagonals coming down four or five inches would fix things. If it's on a solid floor and the legs are the same length I'm sure it will be stable.
posted by AugustusCrunch at 10:55 AM on August 10, 2022
Response by poster: I’d prefer not to bolt it to the wall/floor as I’m lazy and don’t want to have to patch the holes in the future.
I’ve gone back and forth on the full bottom shelf; the top would just be table height, not a standing desk or tall stool height so I’d like some room under there for chairs and feet.
The aluminum is on sale and cheaper than dimensional lumber right now; that and weight was my main motivator for using it rather than 2x4s. I’ll price out more substantial pieces. Diagonal braces are a great idea!
posted by Alvy Ampersand at 11:14 AM on August 10, 2022
I’ve gone back and forth on the full bottom shelf; the top would just be table height, not a standing desk or tall stool height so I’d like some room under there for chairs and feet.
The aluminum is on sale and cheaper than dimensional lumber right now; that and weight was my main motivator for using it rather than 2x4s. I’ll price out more substantial pieces. Diagonal braces are a great idea!
posted by Alvy Ampersand at 11:14 AM on August 10, 2022
3/4” aluminum isn’t going to be big enough. It will be much too flexible. Also, assuming you intend to have it wrap around the outsides of the top apron and stretchers, will put the fasteners much too close to the ends of those parts.
posted by jon1270 at 11:26 AM on August 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
posted by jon1270 at 11:26 AM on August 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
I have a lightweight folding table with a surface length of 4' and a depth of either 18" or 20", I don't remember which; it's somewhat wobbly because it's built like a card table, but it's not particularly tippy due to narrowness, especially when backed against a wall. If you mentioned the height of your planned work area here, I missed it, but my table is typical-desk or folding table height.
Only thought - if at all possible, make sure you're really comfortable with it being only 20" deep. My table can *really* annoy me because it's a little too narrow, and I much prefer my desk surface, which is 28".
posted by stormyteal at 11:30 AM on August 10, 2022
Only thought - if at all possible, make sure you're really comfortable with it being only 20" deep. My table can *really* annoy me because it's a little too narrow, and I much prefer my desk surface, which is 28".
posted by stormyteal at 11:30 AM on August 10, 2022
Response by poster: The 3/4 aluminum and ‘1”’ boards that will also be 3/4” was something in was thinking about too; even if the apron frames are assembled and butt-jointed and dropped into the legs there’s not a lot of meat to bite into.
The desk is going into a corner behind a door that’s 23” from the wall, so the 20” depth is the one aspect that can’t be changed.
It does sound as though I would either have to go with beefier legs which would eliminate any money or weight advantage metal would have over wood. Perhaps it would be less hassle to just go with dimensional lumber for the legs with lap joints.
posted by Alvy Ampersand at 12:05 PM on August 10, 2022
The desk is going into a corner behind a door that’s 23” from the wall, so the 20” depth is the one aspect that can’t be changed.
It does sound as though I would either have to go with beefier legs which would eliminate any money or weight advantage metal would have over wood. Perhaps it would be less hassle to just go with dimensional lumber for the legs with lap joints.
posted by Alvy Ampersand at 12:05 PM on August 10, 2022
You definitely need beefier legs - 3/4" aluminium is way too small in section and you won't be able to get it at all sturdy even with diagonal braces. If you are set on using aluminium, I think you'd need at least 2" section. If I read your info right, you have an apron around the edge of the worktop made of 1" x 4" timber. This would work much better with timber legs (2" x 2" or larger) and you can screw and glue them both to the apron and down through the worktop, which will help to brace them. You could further brace the whole thing by putting a rail along each end about halfway up and putting a shelf on half the depth of the worktop. This would give you some storage under the worktable while still allowing you to get a chair under.
posted by dg at 7:56 PM on August 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
posted by dg at 7:56 PM on August 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
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posted by leslies at 9:32 AM on August 10, 2022