Shopping for shirts for tall thin men?
July 4, 2020 4:17 AM Subscribe
My cousin just graduated from college and desperately needs both a business-casual and tech office casual wardrobe. He's 6'3", very slender, but has wide shoulders, making him a difficult fit. Help?
Think slim fit sweaters over tees, cotton button downs, that kind of thing. Mostly needs shirts because...well, you know. Tailoring isn't an option because...well, you know. Are there brands that you can recommend that will already basically fit? Sizing / fit tips? I want to get him a decent graduation present (late already) and would really appreciate any personal experiences/tips.
Anonymous because it's a present
Think slim fit sweaters over tees, cotton button downs, that kind of thing. Mostly needs shirts because...well, you know. Tailoring isn't an option because...well, you know. Are there brands that you can recommend that will already basically fit? Sizing / fit tips? I want to get him a decent graduation present (late already) and would really appreciate any personal experiences/tips.
Anonymous because it's a present
I ask because if you're in the U.S., the short answer is "no."
I'm assuming your cousin is built basically like me; I'm 6'5", about 180 pounds, overall very thin but with reasonably wide shoulders. In 25 years of being an adult and shopping for clothes for this ridiculous body of mine, I've encountered exactly one collared shirt that fit me well right of the rack with no tailoring. It was at the Yves Saint Laurent store in midtown, and I tried it on with absolutely no intention of buying it because it was $700.
Every other collared shirt I've ever bought or received as a gift has either been way too blousy through the chest and arms, requiring tailoring to make it look like it's actually my shirt that I own and not one I borrowed from my dad for a middle school dance, or the sleeves were 3 inches too short. It sucks, but that's the reality. If you really want to get him a shirt that fits him, you're either going to need to buy one that's big and have it tailored or use a service like Proper Cloth or Indochino or similar to get one custom made to his measurements.
Versions of this question come up on Ask from time to time and it's always possible that in the last year some new option has emerged that's great and reasonably priced, so I'll be watching this thread with interest. But I'd warn you that, if history is any guide, a bunch of people are going to come in here and give you versions of these answers: "I'm 5'9" and very skinny and brand X always works great for me" or "My boyfriend is 6'5" and 260 pounds and Y shirts always fit him perfectly" or "My husband, who favors shirts so large that another person could easily fit inside of them with him, wears brand Z." None of these answers are remotely helpful; they will all lead you astray. The only people who you should listen to on this issue are those with this exact body type who favor fitted clothing, and maybe their significant others. Everything else is just noise.
posted by saladin at 4:50 AM on July 4, 2020 [3 favorites]
I'm assuming your cousin is built basically like me; I'm 6'5", about 180 pounds, overall very thin but with reasonably wide shoulders. In 25 years of being an adult and shopping for clothes for this ridiculous body of mine, I've encountered exactly one collared shirt that fit me well right of the rack with no tailoring. It was at the Yves Saint Laurent store in midtown, and I tried it on with absolutely no intention of buying it because it was $700.
Every other collared shirt I've ever bought or received as a gift has either been way too blousy through the chest and arms, requiring tailoring to make it look like it's actually my shirt that I own and not one I borrowed from my dad for a middle school dance, or the sleeves were 3 inches too short. It sucks, but that's the reality. If you really want to get him a shirt that fits him, you're either going to need to buy one that's big and have it tailored or use a service like Proper Cloth or Indochino or similar to get one custom made to his measurements.
Versions of this question come up on Ask from time to time and it's always possible that in the last year some new option has emerged that's great and reasonably priced, so I'll be watching this thread with interest. But I'd warn you that, if history is any guide, a bunch of people are going to come in here and give you versions of these answers: "I'm 5'9" and very skinny and brand X always works great for me" or "My boyfriend is 6'5" and 260 pounds and Y shirts always fit him perfectly" or "My husband, who favors shirts so large that another person could easily fit inside of them with him, wears brand Z." None of these answers are remotely helpful; they will all lead you astray. The only people who you should listen to on this issue are those with this exact body type who favor fitted clothing, and maybe their significant others. Everything else is just noise.
posted by saladin at 4:50 AM on July 4, 2020 [3 favorites]
Maybe an Indochino or Suit Supply gift card. They both do made to order shirts for reasonable-ish prices.
posted by mercredi at 5:08 AM on July 4, 2020
posted by mercredi at 5:08 AM on July 4, 2020
My husband is 6’4” and currently a bit under 200 lbs and finds slim fit Goodthreads shirts (Amazon house brand, sorry) a decent fit. Not perfect, but decent. Indochino gift card is also a good suggestion, just make sure he understands that you have to wait for sales/promotions.
posted by mskyle at 5:20 AM on July 4, 2020
posted by mskyle at 5:20 AM on July 4, 2020
With that build, he needs clothes from companies that offer actual tall sizes, not just where their clothes tend to run a bit long. Eddie Bauer, Lands End, and a number of other online/catalog companies are good about having tall sizes for most of their clothes, though you still face the potential issue of having the clothes designer assume that if you have wide shoulders, you also have a wide belly. That is a hit-or-miss thing, he might have to order in a bunch and then return half of them.
Tailoring isn't an option because...well, you know.
Do you mean custom tailoring isn't an option, or that alterations aren't an option? Tailoring from scratch can cost a lot for sure, but basic alterations shouldn't, and having that option will help him find shirts that work.
posted by Dip Flash at 6:30 AM on July 4, 2020 [3 favorites]
Tailoring isn't an option because...well, you know.
Do you mean custom tailoring isn't an option, or that alterations aren't an option? Tailoring from scratch can cost a lot for sure, but basic alterations shouldn't, and having that option will help him find shirts that work.
posted by Dip Flash at 6:30 AM on July 4, 2020 [3 favorites]
My brother is 6'4" and 180ish. I don't know if his shoulders are wide or not. But LL Bean tall sizes got him through high school, college and this early working life. (He was like 160lbs when he started college, if that.) When he started making tech industry money, he would buy shirts at Banana Republic (I don't know if they do tall sizes, but he'd find stuff). He discovered that the Brooks Brothers in Vancouver stocks extra-slim dress shirts, which the US stores don't stock, but will order. I think that he has lately been going to Indochino route for button-up shirts for daily wear.
To save you the awkward conversation my mom and I once had, Big and Tall shops serve people who are both big and tall. I think the sales associate was trying very hard not to laugh.
A not-tried-by-my-brother idea: Stitch Fix has succeeded for some people I know who are less common shapes.
posted by hoyland at 7:15 AM on July 4, 2020
To save you the awkward conversation my mom and I once had, Big and Tall shops serve people who are both big and tall. I think the sales associate was trying very hard not to laugh.
A not-tried-by-my-brother idea: Stitch Fix has succeeded for some people I know who are less common shapes.
posted by hoyland at 7:15 AM on July 4, 2020
I'm about the same build as your son (plus an abnormally thick neck). For dress shirts, I've had fairly good luck with the PC Penny Stafford house brand.
posted by Candleman at 7:46 AM on July 4, 2020
posted by Candleman at 7:46 AM on July 4, 2020
6'3" is going to be difficult in US retail stores, so avoid frustration and shop 100% online, exploiting free return shipping policies when possible.
The Gap, Old Navy, J Crew, LL Bean, Asos, JC Penney's, Land's End - All sell work appropriate tall men's tops. Nike and Under Armour and Levis for casual wear. Indochino was ok for a suit.
Reddit has a decent list of brands: https://www.reddit.com/r/tallfashionadvice/about
Don't disregard the ability of a local tailor to make an off the rack garment that is too loose into something that fits like it's made to measure.
Learning to correctly launder, tailor, and mend your own clothes keeps stuff that fits looking great longer. I ruined so many shirts in my 20s simply by shrinking them, overdrying in the machine. Tall men should learn to use a sewing machine.
posted by enfa at 7:59 AM on July 4, 2020 [1 favorite]
The Gap, Old Navy, J Crew, LL Bean, Asos, JC Penney's, Land's End - All sell work appropriate tall men's tops. Nike and Under Armour and Levis for casual wear. Indochino was ok for a suit.
Reddit has a decent list of brands: https://www.reddit.com/r/tallfashionadvice/about
Don't disregard the ability of a local tailor to make an off the rack garment that is too loose into something that fits like it's made to measure.
Learning to correctly launder, tailor, and mend your own clothes keeps stuff that fits looking great longer. I ruined so many shirts in my 20s simply by shrinking them, overdrying in the machine. Tall men should learn to use a sewing machine.
posted by enfa at 7:59 AM on July 4, 2020 [1 favorite]
I think the reason tailoring is not an option is because it's a surprise gift. Also seconding LL Bean tall sizes, especially in the LL Bean "Signature" collection (which are a more modern, stylish cut).
posted by mskyle at 8:04 AM on July 4, 2020
posted by mskyle at 8:04 AM on July 4, 2020
It's best if you can figure out what his size/measurements are, but obviously that's tricky. I walked into a Dillard's and found out I wore a 16 1/2 x about 35 when I was skinny, and I guess I still do. They had those at department stores. May get a little roomy, but often there are multiple fits available so you can go for a slim cut. Most of my long-sleeve shirts come from Kohl's. Err on the long side if you need to.
Short sleeves are easier, of course; you can probably just do a large tall.
Try to get something he doesn't have to iron.
posted by Huffy Puffy at 9:54 AM on July 4, 2020
Short sleeves are easier, of course; you can probably just do a large tall.
Try to get something he doesn't have to iron.
posted by Huffy Puffy at 9:54 AM on July 4, 2020
Just here to throw Uniqlo into the mix. My partner is 6"5" and slim with very broad shoulders - and likes fitted shirts - and he buys $30 button-downs from Uniqlo that seem to fit better than most other options. I think he said Taylor Stitch shirts worked well but got returned because they were too $$$. He does have a pair of jeans from TS that are the only ones that are really long enough for him but also fit well in the hips and thighs - Uniqlo jeans don't work, FWIW, and neither do most of their clothes. But the button-downs are good - in linen and oxford cloth.
posted by sparkling at 12:07 PM on July 4, 2020
posted by sparkling at 12:07 PM on July 4, 2020
Came here to say Uniqlo as well. It sounds like I have a similar-ish physique, but I'm about 6.' Medium shirts work well for me but you could also try Large slimfit? - They have a detailed size chart on their site.
posted by carter at 5:25 PM on July 4, 2020
posted by carter at 5:25 PM on July 4, 2020
I am 6'1" and the shortest guy in my family. We all do well with LLBean Tall shirts. They aren't cheap but they wear really well so you get years out of them.
I live by an outlet so I can get them cheap but I have also found them at a local thrift shop. You might have him try a few thrift shops, and then buy new shirts from whatever manufacturer fits best.
posted by wenestvedt at 6:07 PM on July 4, 2020
I live by an outlet so I can get them cheap but I have also found them at a local thrift shop. You might have him try a few thrift shops, and then buy new shirts from whatever manufacturer fits best.
posted by wenestvedt at 6:07 PM on July 4, 2020
Thirding Uniqlo. My older brother is a similar build, and even though he has a fancy job and could afford much more expensive clothes, he absolutely swears by their button-downs.
posted by stella1 at 5:25 PM on July 6, 2020
posted by stella1 at 5:25 PM on July 6, 2020
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by saladin at 4:34 AM on July 4, 2020