How do I paint a room?
June 21, 2020 10:54 AM Subscribe
I haven't painted a room in decades. Please walk me through it from start to finish. It's a bedroom, currently a bright color and going to a muted, lighter color. The walls are all in good shape (no repairs needed) and the ceiling doesn't need to be repainted.
I would love recommendations for specific... paint? brushes? masking tape? I don't even know what I need. I'm in the US and have a good hardware store nearby. I will happily pay more for materials that will make the job easier and have good results.
I would love recommendations for specific... paint? brushes? masking tape? I don't even know what I need. I'm in the US and have a good hardware store nearby. I will happily pay more for materials that will make the job easier and have good results.
Your overall strategy will depend on whether you want to spend a lot of time on prep/masking and painting fast, or painting very slowly with minimal setup. If you want to get it done and over with, mask off -everything- that doesn’t need new paint. Empty the room, remove all the electrical plates, vent covers, mask the whole floor, all the trim. Use a combination of plastic sheeting and painters tape (which is less sticky than masking tape so it’s less likely to pull paint with it when you remove it.). I like to put a canvas tarp on top the floor plastic for better traction. This masking will take a long time.
Get a very bright work light to look at the walls and do any patching sanding. At a minimum, dust them - painted-over-cobwebs will make you sad later.
But you can paint quickly and freely once the prep is done. You will want a primer to cover the bright color, and probably one or two coats of your new color. I like to start by cutting in the very edges with a brush (but just the last 1.5 inches, not the 6-10 inches around each window). Then you can do the main walls. You’ll either use a rented paint sprayer or a roller-on-long stick. Follow the paint directions for how long between coats. Which rollers and brushes to use depend on the specific paints (even within the “water based” clade of materials). You can wrap the rollers and brushes in kitchen wrap and pop them in the fridge for storage between coats, but don’t them actually dry with paint in them.
Don’t leave painters tape on the trim any longer than you need to. The long it is there, the stickier it gets and the more likely you will have pulled up paint or really committed tape.
posted by janell at 11:23 AM on June 21, 2020 [2 favorites]
Get a very bright work light to look at the walls and do any patching sanding. At a minimum, dust them - painted-over-cobwebs will make you sad later.
But you can paint quickly and freely once the prep is done. You will want a primer to cover the bright color, and probably one or two coats of your new color. I like to start by cutting in the very edges with a brush (but just the last 1.5 inches, not the 6-10 inches around each window). Then you can do the main walls. You’ll either use a rented paint sprayer or a roller-on-long stick. Follow the paint directions for how long between coats. Which rollers and brushes to use depend on the specific paints (even within the “water based” clade of materials). You can wrap the rollers and brushes in kitchen wrap and pop them in the fridge for storage between coats, but don’t them actually dry with paint in them.
Don’t leave painters tape on the trim any longer than you need to. The long it is there, the stickier it gets and the more likely you will have pulled up paint or really committed tape.
posted by janell at 11:23 AM on June 21, 2020 [2 favorites]
The alternative is to do the cutting in for a few minutes a day without masking anything. And then rolling one wall at a time with just local drop cloths. It will take a long time, but the room will be useable throughout. More or less.
posted by janell at 11:25 AM on June 21, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by janell at 11:25 AM on June 21, 2020 [1 favorite]
I LOVE painting.
I use Benjamin Moore "Aura" paint for all my indoor painting. It's very thick, and has great coverage and colour purity. It's expensive though (about $70CAD a gallon), but you don't need to prime with it and it usually looks great in 2 coats. (I painted our bedroom really really dark navy and that took three coats.) Most rooms in my house have only taken one gallon, including the 3 coats of navy. I like "eggshell" finish for indoors, but our house was built in 1950 and our walls aren't in great shape and that shows the least detail. Some people like flat paint but it's harder to keep pristine looking. I WOULD get a small pot of ceiling paint as well (usually a very flat white) in case there is any old paint on your ceiling in spots, you will need to cover them. You can get the ceiling paint from the hardware store - I like zinnser brand.
I like a 2.5 inch angled brush with smooth, plasticy fibers, where they are less thick at the end than the middle. I buy a new one for each room I paint, because I don't like to use tape and cut in by hand, so a new brush helps me be accurate. I also like a roller with a medium knapp - you can just ask at the paint store and they'll recommend one for the paint if you haven't done this for a long time.
If you're more comfortable, you can spend time taping your trim edges and ceiling edges to prevent you from getting paint on them, but I prefer to just fill up a yogurt container with paint and paint a tight line across the ceiling, around all the trim and down the corners first. Then fill your paint tray and roll the rest of the walls, don't put too much paint on your roller - you shouldn't see "bubbles" on the wall. If you do see bubbles, keep rolling over that spot, expanding it larger with the existing paint there, until they go away.
Recoat when your paint is dry to touch, you'll definitely need to recoat the rolled parts, I usually recoat everything including all my hand painted edging, but some people don't - you'll have to look at your coverage - it depends on the previous paint finish and colour and such.
have fun! listen to podcasts or audiobooks while you work, and go slow. Have a damp rag with you to wipe up any drips right after you do them. if you have carpet lay down drop cloths.
posted by euphoria066 at 11:29 AM on June 21, 2020 [10 favorites]
I use Benjamin Moore "Aura" paint for all my indoor painting. It's very thick, and has great coverage and colour purity. It's expensive though (about $70CAD a gallon), but you don't need to prime with it and it usually looks great in 2 coats. (I painted our bedroom really really dark navy and that took three coats.) Most rooms in my house have only taken one gallon, including the 3 coats of navy. I like "eggshell" finish for indoors, but our house was built in 1950 and our walls aren't in great shape and that shows the least detail. Some people like flat paint but it's harder to keep pristine looking. I WOULD get a small pot of ceiling paint as well (usually a very flat white) in case there is any old paint on your ceiling in spots, you will need to cover them. You can get the ceiling paint from the hardware store - I like zinnser brand.
I like a 2.5 inch angled brush with smooth, plasticy fibers, where they are less thick at the end than the middle. I buy a new one for each room I paint, because I don't like to use tape and cut in by hand, so a new brush helps me be accurate. I also like a roller with a medium knapp - you can just ask at the paint store and they'll recommend one for the paint if you haven't done this for a long time.
If you're more comfortable, you can spend time taping your trim edges and ceiling edges to prevent you from getting paint on them, but I prefer to just fill up a yogurt container with paint and paint a tight line across the ceiling, around all the trim and down the corners first. Then fill your paint tray and roll the rest of the walls, don't put too much paint on your roller - you shouldn't see "bubbles" on the wall. If you do see bubbles, keep rolling over that spot, expanding it larger with the existing paint there, until they go away.
Recoat when your paint is dry to touch, you'll definitely need to recoat the rolled parts, I usually recoat everything including all my hand painted edging, but some people don't - you'll have to look at your coverage - it depends on the previous paint finish and colour and such.
have fun! listen to podcasts or audiobooks while you work, and go slow. Have a damp rag with you to wipe up any drips right after you do them. if you have carpet lay down drop cloths.
posted by euphoria066 at 11:29 AM on June 21, 2020 [10 favorites]
One thing I found when painting interiors, using latex paints you get mixed at a paint store/home improvement store, is that the difference in price noticeably translates into better coverage. Price difference can be significant. The cheaper stuff needs more coats. I can't speak about longevity or durability. I don't know of other advantages of cheap vs expensive, the cheap paints I've used in the past seem to last long enough. Brands don't seem to make much difference in my limited experience so much as price.
Clean surfaces with a solution of TSP or TSP-alike before painting. Remove any loose old paint, but I'd avoid sanding/scraping previous coats completely off unless absolutely necessary for some reason. In the case of my house, that would be insanity. I use rollers for broad flat surfaces, and these disposable, small foam backed brushes that kind of resemble velcro for detail work. I also found dedicated paint stores offer some good advice. Remove light fixtures/switch plates/etc if at all possible. Just makes for a nicer end result than trying to paint around (or over) these things. If you want to paint them, it's comes out nicer if you paint them while removed than when still mounted.
Next time I do some painting, I'm going to look into finding if latex paints can get more durable. To me, it seems regardless of price, latex paints always remain kind of soft when dried, even after years, and prone to sticking to some rubbery/plastic-y substances/furniture varnishes and peeling off when in contact with those substances.
posted by 2N2222 at 11:34 AM on June 21, 2020
Clean surfaces with a solution of TSP or TSP-alike before painting. Remove any loose old paint, but I'd avoid sanding/scraping previous coats completely off unless absolutely necessary for some reason. In the case of my house, that would be insanity. I use rollers for broad flat surfaces, and these disposable, small foam backed brushes that kind of resemble velcro for detail work. I also found dedicated paint stores offer some good advice. Remove light fixtures/switch plates/etc if at all possible. Just makes for a nicer end result than trying to paint around (or over) these things. If you want to paint them, it's comes out nicer if you paint them while removed than when still mounted.
Next time I do some painting, I'm going to look into finding if latex paints can get more durable. To me, it seems regardless of price, latex paints always remain kind of soft when dried, even after years, and prone to sticking to some rubbery/plastic-y substances/furniture varnishes and peeling off when in contact with those substances.
posted by 2N2222 at 11:34 AM on June 21, 2020
Response by poster: We're going to be painting the inside of a closet, too, I've just been informed (it's my kid's room). So advice on that would also be appreciated. Do we paint it first? Last? It doesn't matter?
posted by The corpse in the library at 12:16 PM on June 21, 2020
posted by The corpse in the library at 12:16 PM on June 21, 2020
Consider the Lining Paper, if the room already has it and several coats of paint on top you will get a neater finish by stripping the paper and applying fresh.
posted by Lanark at 1:13 PM on June 21, 2020
posted by Lanark at 1:13 PM on June 21, 2020
Response by poster: As far as I know, the walls have just two layers of paint on them; one we had done professionally several years ago, and the Contractor's White paint that had been there for a decade before that.
posted by The corpse in the library at 1:32 PM on June 21, 2020
posted by The corpse in the library at 1:32 PM on June 21, 2020
Have a damp rag with you to wipe up any drips right after you do themGonna disagree with this one. Assuming you have hard floors, it's easier to let them dry. The drops come up in one piece with an credit card the next day. Wiping can take a minute, depending on the paint.
posted by caek at 1:35 PM on June 21, 2020 [1 favorite]
I was in a similar position to you a couple of months ago. Three or four rooms in, and this is my routine. Probably not perfect but it works for me.
Allow four days. One to prepare. One for the whites (ceiling, radiators, and trim - your colour may vary). One for the walls. One to put everything back.
Some things haven't changed since you last decorated. It takes two minutes to remove a door, but you save twenty minutes trying to paint round it and do a worse job. Similarly for switches, light fittings and basically anything that isn't part of the building. I use yellow Frog Tape for masking paint, it doesn't pull off 16-hour old paint from trim or ceilings. I use cheap masking tape to mask the carpet (YouTube link) and things like radiator valves. If you can cut in, do that instead.
Some things have changed. 'Decades ago' you probably used oil-based paint for trim. The great majority of paints now are water based. You have to work quickly and don't overwork it. My experience is that I can lob it on in a layer about twice as thick as I expected without runs or sags. Two coats in a day. Speaking of oil-based paints, you can't just use a modern water based paint on top of old oil (informative blog post).
Tools: Corona Knight and Kingston brushes (2 inch), and Wooster 9/16 inch microfiber rollers on a Wooster Sherlock frame & a pole. Don't try and clean the roller between coats, just wrap it up. Web recommendation for trim prep is dry 60 grit to smooth followed by sugar soap to degrease (nothing new there then). I find dry 60 grit too dusty and have switched to 120 wet & dry. Wash the walls with the sugar soap. Latex gloves throughout.
Zinsser and Benjamin Moore seem like good US paints. I use Little Greene on the walls, but I doubt you can get that over the pond.
At the end of the second day you will be knackered and wonder why you haven't paid someone to do the job, but when the first coat of colour goes on it all starts to look worthwhile. Have fun!
posted by StephenB at 1:40 PM on June 21, 2020 [3 favorites]
Allow four days. One to prepare. One for the whites (ceiling, radiators, and trim - your colour may vary). One for the walls. One to put everything back.
Some things haven't changed since you last decorated. It takes two minutes to remove a door, but you save twenty minutes trying to paint round it and do a worse job. Similarly for switches, light fittings and basically anything that isn't part of the building. I use yellow Frog Tape for masking paint, it doesn't pull off 16-hour old paint from trim or ceilings. I use cheap masking tape to mask the carpet (YouTube link) and things like radiator valves. If you can cut in, do that instead.
Some things have changed. 'Decades ago' you probably used oil-based paint for trim. The great majority of paints now are water based. You have to work quickly and don't overwork it. My experience is that I can lob it on in a layer about twice as thick as I expected without runs or sags. Two coats in a day. Speaking of oil-based paints, you can't just use a modern water based paint on top of old oil (informative blog post).
Tools: Corona Knight and Kingston brushes (2 inch), and Wooster 9/16 inch microfiber rollers on a Wooster Sherlock frame & a pole. Don't try and clean the roller between coats, just wrap it up. Web recommendation for trim prep is dry 60 grit to smooth followed by sugar soap to degrease (nothing new there then). I find dry 60 grit too dusty and have switched to 120 wet & dry. Wash the walls with the sugar soap. Latex gloves throughout.
Zinsser and Benjamin Moore seem like good US paints. I use Little Greene on the walls, but I doubt you can get that over the pond.
At the end of the second day you will be knackered and wonder why you haven't paid someone to do the job, but when the first coat of colour goes on it all starts to look worthwhile. Have fun!
posted by StephenB at 1:40 PM on June 21, 2020 [3 favorites]
I would vote for thorough prep and masking. If the current color is dark and the new color is light, you're going to be doing more than one coat.
posted by tmdonahue at 2:18 PM on June 21, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by tmdonahue at 2:18 PM on June 21, 2020 [1 favorite]
I think I picked this trick up from a painter doing a display in a museum. It worked well on our older, rough edged home: paint the trim first, let it dry a day, put painter's tape on it without worrying about rubbing it down too tightly, then paint over the edge next to the wall with the trim paint before applying the wall colour. If all goes well, any bleeding under masking tape will be your trim colour.
posted by bonobothegreat at 2:21 PM on June 21, 2020 [2 favorites]
posted by bonobothegreat at 2:21 PM on June 21, 2020 [2 favorites]
There really is a difference between masking tapes. I just finished a couple weeks of painting, and I'm still raving over the performance of the green frog tape brand. Much better than the blue stuff that I had used previously.
posted by jimmereeno at 4:12 PM on June 21, 2020 [3 favorites]
posted by jimmereeno at 4:12 PM on June 21, 2020 [3 favorites]
I find the best masking tape is the 3M brand blue tape. After 3M went with blue tape other makers copied the color but not the formulation; the 3M Scotch brand is immensely better than all others in my experience (and better than green frog imo, pace jimmereeno).
posted by anadem at 7:14 PM on June 21, 2020 [4 favorites]
posted by anadem at 7:14 PM on June 21, 2020 [4 favorites]
Paint the inside of the closet bright white; it makes the closet much brighter. Paint the closet 1st to avoid weaseling out of the job. Only paint closet shelves if you must; paint takes time to really harden.
Some people have the knack of using the brush just so, with a bead of paint, or something, and do not need masking tape. These people are sorcerers, I have to tape and use drop cloths.
Use a pretty good brush. Wash with a small amount of detergent, rinse well, shake (outdoors) and hang to dry. Cheap brushes and rollers make the job harder. Don't use cheap paint.
posted by theora55 at 7:31 PM on June 21, 2020 [1 favorite]
Some people have the knack of using the brush just so, with a bead of paint, or something, and do not need masking tape. These people are sorcerers, I have to tape and use drop cloths.
Use a pretty good brush. Wash with a small amount of detergent, rinse well, shake (outdoors) and hang to dry. Cheap brushes and rollers make the job harder. Don't use cheap paint.
posted by theora55 at 7:31 PM on June 21, 2020 [1 favorite]
I don’t see it above so hopefully not repeating but to save time if painting or rolling stretches across more than one day: wrap your (unwashed, still has paint on) brush or roller well in Saran Wrap and then in foil, and put it in the freezer overnight (or longer). Thaw it when you want to go back to painting.
posted by Tandem Affinity at 8:15 PM on June 21, 2020
posted by Tandem Affinity at 8:15 PM on June 21, 2020
Hello, I am currently at the priming/painting part of "taping, bedding, priming, painting" a two-bed, two-bath, lakeside cottage with loft and 14-foot living room ceiling. Before this was six years renovating a two-story house on I-beams (considered new construction by the city planning dept.) I feel your pain. Let me help.
Repainting a room. It's all about the prep work.
How is the ceiling? If you have a popcorn ceiling, I feel for you.
The paint will splatter off the walls. You will touch the ceiling with the roller. You will graze the wall with your hand and realize that there is paint on your knuckles. This all happened last week in our bedrooms and bathrooms.
Even if you had the exact same can of ceiling paint, the color on the ceiling will have changed with time (and smoke, dirt, sunlight, etc.)
The fix: tape off the ceiling with blue tape and newspaper for about 12 inches. If you get paint along the edges -- well, no one should be looking so close.
If you want to be super careful, get a color that matches the ceiling in flat finish and paint two inches of wall at the top, then tape off and try to avoid getting closer to the ceiling. Think of how some redraw their lip line to get a different makeup effect.
The walls are dark. I have "cantaloupe walls" in one bedroom -- peach over aqua. I should have used Zinsser or Kilz primer, sealer and stain blocker. We are currently using the Kilz PVA for new drywall on everything before two coats of paint.
Yes, count on painting two thin coats. Don't skimp on this step.
We've used the Zinsser or Kilz instead of lightly sanding or using TSP to add some "tooth" to semi-gloss surfaces. It also makes using water-based paints over oil-based paints a possibility. I hate oil-base -- the smell, the clean up, the repainting years later.
posted by TrishaU at 11:30 PM on June 21, 2020 [1 favorite]
Repainting a room. It's all about the prep work.
How is the ceiling? If you have a popcorn ceiling, I feel for you.
The paint will splatter off the walls. You will touch the ceiling with the roller. You will graze the wall with your hand and realize that there is paint on your knuckles. This all happened last week in our bedrooms and bathrooms.
Even if you had the exact same can of ceiling paint, the color on the ceiling will have changed with time (and smoke, dirt, sunlight, etc.)
The fix: tape off the ceiling with blue tape and newspaper for about 12 inches. If you get paint along the edges -- well, no one should be looking so close.
If you want to be super careful, get a color that matches the ceiling in flat finish and paint two inches of wall at the top, then tape off and try to avoid getting closer to the ceiling. Think of how some redraw their lip line to get a different makeup effect.
The walls are dark. I have "cantaloupe walls" in one bedroom -- peach over aqua. I should have used Zinsser or Kilz primer, sealer and stain blocker. We are currently using the Kilz PVA for new drywall on everything before two coats of paint.
Yes, count on painting two thin coats. Don't skimp on this step.
We've used the Zinsser or Kilz instead of lightly sanding or using TSP to add some "tooth" to semi-gloss surfaces. It also makes using water-based paints over oil-based paints a possibility. I hate oil-base -- the smell, the clean up, the repainting years later.
posted by TrishaU at 11:30 PM on June 21, 2020 [1 favorite]
Prep steps: Repair any holes, cracks, previous repair jobs. Clean the walls (I use Kilz or Zinsser as my primer). Tape off anything that you don't want painted, including hardware, outlets, pipes, etc. Use plastic or newspaper and lots of blue tape on windows, doors, ceiling and floor. Get everything out of the room, if possible.
Check the heat and humidity for the next several days, and put off painting if you cannot keep the room cool and dry. The paint will dry on the surface, not against the wall.
I give 24 hours at least between coats, because I want to do it right the first time. No hurry.
The tools --
Cleanup station: A couple of 5-gallon clean buckets and plenty of water for cleanup. A green/yellow kitchen scrubber. Someplace to put the tools for drying (you want extras sets of tools for each color of paint, sometimes more if you are doing several rooms at a time). Someplace to dump the dirty water. A way of washing your hands.
Paint prep station: Several paint lid keys (they get lost). A mallet or hammer to pound the lid back in place. Paper towels and water for spill cleanup. A cordless drill and a paint stirrer attachment (stirring sticks don't do the job). The brush you will be using to swipe off the excess paint before cleaning the stirrer. A Sharpee pen to mark info. on the paint lid.
The paint tools: Plastic paint can lids (replaces lid until job is done), 12-inch roller frames, several paint rollers, extension pole, 1-gallon Ziplock bag to cover the roller between uses -- I like the sliders. Square paint edgers and several paint edger pads, several good brushes for the place where walls meet, 1-gallon Ziplock bag for brush and paint edger. Several paint trays. I like a metal tray screen, but they are a pain to clean. Small trash bag to cover paint tray between uses.
Other tools: A step stool or ladder to actually see what you are doing next to the ceiling. Painting duds. A hat or scarf to keep paint out of your hair. Some use eye protection. Plenty of drinks and a place to rest.
The job --
Primer is heavier than paint.
Sometimes I walk up and down the ladder with just the edger, putting the primer coat next to the ceiling, upper walls and windows. Later I can put about two or three cups of paint in the paint tray and hold it while painting with the edger.
The roller will drip and splatter, which is why I prefer having a metal screen in the paint tray to roll off some of the extra paint. Put enough paint on the wall with the edger that you do not need to get close to the ceiling and floor with the roller.
Do one wall at a time. Do not overestimate how fast you can get the wall done. Work on a "wet edge" -- don't walk away from the job. "Feather" the new edges so that you don't have a harsh thick line of paint for the next stroke. Don't overwork the paint in one place -- you will be going over it with another coat later. Use the edger at the ceiling, corners, floor, windows, and around outlets. A brush is needed at wall junctions and tight spaces.
I've run out of paint before. New drywall is thirsty. First coats are thirsty. Keep an eye on your paint bucket and try to end your session after a completed wall rather than halfway through. It's frustrating to run out after Lowes has closed.
Cleanup: You can reuse tools if you clean them out thoroughly. Do not use damp rollers or pads.
Be careful about paint on the soles of your shoes.
posted by TrishaU at 12:47 AM on June 22, 2020
Check the heat and humidity for the next several days, and put off painting if you cannot keep the room cool and dry. The paint will dry on the surface, not against the wall.
I give 24 hours at least between coats, because I want to do it right the first time. No hurry.
The tools --
Cleanup station: A couple of 5-gallon clean buckets and plenty of water for cleanup. A green/yellow kitchen scrubber. Someplace to put the tools for drying (you want extras sets of tools for each color of paint, sometimes more if you are doing several rooms at a time). Someplace to dump the dirty water. A way of washing your hands.
Paint prep station: Several paint lid keys (they get lost). A mallet or hammer to pound the lid back in place. Paper towels and water for spill cleanup. A cordless drill and a paint stirrer attachment (stirring sticks don't do the job). The brush you will be using to swipe off the excess paint before cleaning the stirrer. A Sharpee pen to mark info. on the paint lid.
The paint tools: Plastic paint can lids (replaces lid until job is done), 12-inch roller frames, several paint rollers, extension pole, 1-gallon Ziplock bag to cover the roller between uses -- I like the sliders. Square paint edgers and several paint edger pads, several good brushes for the place where walls meet, 1-gallon Ziplock bag for brush and paint edger. Several paint trays. I like a metal tray screen, but they are a pain to clean. Small trash bag to cover paint tray between uses.
Other tools: A step stool or ladder to actually see what you are doing next to the ceiling. Painting duds. A hat or scarf to keep paint out of your hair. Some use eye protection. Plenty of drinks and a place to rest.
The job --
Primer is heavier than paint.
Sometimes I walk up and down the ladder with just the edger, putting the primer coat next to the ceiling, upper walls and windows. Later I can put about two or three cups of paint in the paint tray and hold it while painting with the edger.
The roller will drip and splatter, which is why I prefer having a metal screen in the paint tray to roll off some of the extra paint. Put enough paint on the wall with the edger that you do not need to get close to the ceiling and floor with the roller.
Do one wall at a time. Do not overestimate how fast you can get the wall done. Work on a "wet edge" -- don't walk away from the job. "Feather" the new edges so that you don't have a harsh thick line of paint for the next stroke. Don't overwork the paint in one place -- you will be going over it with another coat later. Use the edger at the ceiling, corners, floor, windows, and around outlets. A brush is needed at wall junctions and tight spaces.
I've run out of paint before. New drywall is thirsty. First coats are thirsty. Keep an eye on your paint bucket and try to end your session after a completed wall rather than halfway through. It's frustrating to run out after Lowes has closed.
Cleanup: You can reuse tools if you clean them out thoroughly. Do not use damp rollers or pads.
Be careful about paint on the soles of your shoes.
posted by TrishaU at 12:47 AM on June 22, 2020
Annnd... color and finish.
When I buy new paint I use Valspar Signature from Lowes, inside and out. I use semi-gloss in bathrooms and kitchens and for outside trim. I use satin for everywhere else inside and for outside walls. I use ceiling paint, white and flat.
Lowes did a great job the other day matching the color of two "mistint" gallons of Valspar beige semi-gloss that I used on my two new bathrooms. In fact, I still have some of the original paint left over for touch ups later (we are installing the shower and toilet and just bought the sink cabinet).
I just put the first coat on one bedroom from three "mistint" gallons of Valspar satin in medium blues and blue-greens. It came out strong and spotty with obvious roller patterns, but I'll take care of that with the second coat. I usually don't reuse the edger, but this time I probably should do it. We will see if there is enough for the second bedroom, otherwise I have two "mistint" gallons of eggshell.
Bottom line: you can match color from random buckets of paint. You cannot match finish if you combine different finishes together. You can sometimes successfully touch up paint within a few years, but after that it is better to repaint the wall due to fading.
posted by TrishaU at 1:27 AM on June 22, 2020
When I buy new paint I use Valspar Signature from Lowes, inside and out. I use semi-gloss in bathrooms and kitchens and for outside trim. I use satin for everywhere else inside and for outside walls. I use ceiling paint, white and flat.
Lowes did a great job the other day matching the color of two "mistint" gallons of Valspar beige semi-gloss that I used on my two new bathrooms. In fact, I still have some of the original paint left over for touch ups later (we are installing the shower and toilet and just bought the sink cabinet).
I just put the first coat on one bedroom from three "mistint" gallons of Valspar satin in medium blues and blue-greens. It came out strong and spotty with obvious roller patterns, but I'll take care of that with the second coat. I usually don't reuse the edger, but this time I probably should do it. We will see if there is enough for the second bedroom, otherwise I have two "mistint" gallons of eggshell.
Bottom line: you can match color from random buckets of paint. You cannot match finish if you combine different finishes together. You can sometimes successfully touch up paint within a few years, but after that it is better to repaint the wall due to fading.
posted by TrishaU at 1:27 AM on June 22, 2020
Dark paint colors --
Tint the primer. This can be done at the paint shop. If you try adding a bit of the paint to the primer, this will compromise what the primer does.
Use a matte/flat finish paint. The grades are matte/flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss. The shiny finishes show up every mistake, including brush strokes and roller strokes.
Use a roller for the main paint job. This gives a softer, more uniform paint texture. Note that edgers, brushes and rollers give different textures. Do not try to cover all the edger strokes. Feather edges by repeating them after most of the paint is off the roller to soften the effect and remove hard raised edges of paint. Smear any drips.
Use a good brush in the junctions between walls and at the corners of ceilings. Use a brush in narrow places. Some people can use a brush instead of an edger, but for me it is faster to use an edger.
Do most of your strokes up and down. I roll on a very slow, horizontal line closer to the ceiling and floor, to gently cover the area and not get as many splatters. Then I use the extension pole to bridge the widest gap in mostly vertical strokes.
Use at least two thin coats. You may need enough paint for three coats. Take your time with the finish coat and work the strokes from top to bottom.
posted by TrishaU at 8:12 AM on June 22, 2020
Tint the primer. This can be done at the paint shop. If you try adding a bit of the paint to the primer, this will compromise what the primer does.
Use a matte/flat finish paint. The grades are matte/flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss. The shiny finishes show up every mistake, including brush strokes and roller strokes.
Use a roller for the main paint job. This gives a softer, more uniform paint texture. Note that edgers, brushes and rollers give different textures. Do not try to cover all the edger strokes. Feather edges by repeating them after most of the paint is off the roller to soften the effect and remove hard raised edges of paint. Smear any drips.
Use a good brush in the junctions between walls and at the corners of ceilings. Use a brush in narrow places. Some people can use a brush instead of an edger, but for me it is faster to use an edger.
Do most of your strokes up and down. I roll on a very slow, horizontal line closer to the ceiling and floor, to gently cover the area and not get as many splatters. Then I use the extension pole to bridge the widest gap in mostly vertical strokes.
Use at least two thin coats. You may need enough paint for three coats. Take your time with the finish coat and work the strokes from top to bottom.
posted by TrishaU at 8:12 AM on June 22, 2020
I just finished painting five rooms in my house after never painting a wall in my life. I am very short and lack physical strength, so YMMV.
What I learned:
- I really like these brushes for cutting in: Wooster Shortcut
- I like these roller covers: Purdy White Dove 3-Pack 9-in x 3/8-in Woven Acrylic Fiber Paint Roller Cover.
- Love these lids, makes pouring so much neater: SHUR-LINE Paint can Lid
- I have tried edging tools and don't always have great results with them, but some people love them.
- I like the green Frog tape. Make sure to remove it before the paint has dried.
- Cutting in against a popcorn ceiling isn't as scary as it seems like it would be. Watch YouTube videos if you're nervous about doing this. I found it easier than painting neatly along crown molding.
- Latex paint nowadays is THICK. It's like yogurt. I found it didn't drip much as long as I didn't rush through dabbing off the brush and roller, but I tended to drip on the floor at least once per job, so covering the floors is still worthwhile.
- When cutting in, I found that adding just a bit of water to my paint cup and stirring it in there really well helped the paint go further and thus helped me go faster. Cutting in takes forever, at least if you're me, so I appreciated that.
- I used mostly Sherwin Williams Cashmere paint just because that's what my contractor recommended. They have sales. It seemed fine, but I have nothing to compare it to. I used the flat sheen in my bedroom and it looks nice.
- Thoroughly clean any surfaces that might be dusty or otherwise dirty. If you get dirt on your brush while painting, you will not like that.
- Man, does painting make my hands and knees sore.
posted by bananana at 8:12 PM on June 22, 2020 [2 favorites]
What I learned:
- I really like these brushes for cutting in: Wooster Shortcut
- I like these roller covers: Purdy White Dove 3-Pack 9-in x 3/8-in Woven Acrylic Fiber Paint Roller Cover.
- Love these lids, makes pouring so much neater: SHUR-LINE Paint can Lid
- I have tried edging tools and don't always have great results with them, but some people love them.
- I like the green Frog tape. Make sure to remove it before the paint has dried.
- Cutting in against a popcorn ceiling isn't as scary as it seems like it would be. Watch YouTube videos if you're nervous about doing this. I found it easier than painting neatly along crown molding.
- Latex paint nowadays is THICK. It's like yogurt. I found it didn't drip much as long as I didn't rush through dabbing off the brush and roller, but I tended to drip on the floor at least once per job, so covering the floors is still worthwhile.
- When cutting in, I found that adding just a bit of water to my paint cup and stirring it in there really well helped the paint go further and thus helped me go faster. Cutting in takes forever, at least if you're me, so I appreciated that.
- I used mostly Sherwin Williams Cashmere paint just because that's what my contractor recommended. They have sales. It seemed fine, but I have nothing to compare it to. I used the flat sheen in my bedroom and it looks nice.
- Thoroughly clean any surfaces that might be dusty or otherwise dirty. If you get dirt on your brush while painting, you will not like that.
- Man, does painting make my hands and knees sore.
posted by bananana at 8:12 PM on June 22, 2020 [2 favorites]
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The masking tape market has gotten a lot more complicated in the past decade. Get advice from your paint vendor.
Its worthwhile to get a special tool to help with edges and borders.
Even a wall that "needs no repair" has minute lumps in the last coat of paint. A once-over with a sander is worthwhile. New tools should have dust catchers of some sort.
Overdue on dropcloths and coverings for furniture that's remaining in the room.
posted by SemiSalt at 11:20 AM on June 21, 2020