New fence for an old saw?
May 27, 2020 10:24 AM Subscribe
I picked up a 1960's Powr-Kraft table saw at a garage sale, and it runs great. Only problem is, it didn't come with a rip fence or rails, just a miter gauge. Obviously I need a fence to be safe and accurate, but I haven't had any luck finding a replacement online, and searches for 'universal table saw fence' only turn out high-end aftermarket parts more expensive than a new saw. Is there a generic solution I haven’t found, or a safe and effective alternative to a fence, or did I just get a very heavy decoration?
Vintage Machinery has a page on that brand, so that might be a good place to keep looking.
posted by Poldo at 11:31 AM on May 27, 2020
posted by Poldo at 11:31 AM on May 27, 2020
A length of 2 or 3" aluminum angle and a pair of clamps will work. It'll be annoying to square up but it's cheap. It'll be easier if you have a 24" or so square if your table edge is square to your mitre slots (and yor mitre slots are parallel to the blade).
A lot of guys end up upgrading their factory fence and the factory unit is pretty worthless (in money, they work OK). I'd spread around some wanted ads to see if anyone local has one collecting dust. The only critical dimension is depth of the table (and even there as long as your table is narrower you can adapt a wider table's fence.
posted by Mitheral at 1:05 PM on May 27, 2020 [3 favorites]
A lot of guys end up upgrading their factory fence and the factory unit is pretty worthless (in money, they work OK). I'd spread around some wanted ads to see if anyone local has one collecting dust. The only critical dimension is depth of the table (and even there as long as your table is narrower you can adapt a wider table's fence.
posted by Mitheral at 1:05 PM on May 27, 2020 [3 favorites]
Beisemeyer style fences are good. Universal fences are okay.
You can likely diy something from any true stock, but extruded aluminum like 80 20 or whatever will be easiest.
Something along the lines of this (quick search, use it as a springboard), is what I'm proposing.
If most of your work fits, making a sled (for crosscutting) is a great idea. I used mine way more than the fence. This guide is the best I've ever seen for ensuring your sled is square.
posted by Acari at 2:34 PM on May 27, 2020 [1 favorite]
You can likely diy something from any true stock, but extruded aluminum like 80 20 or whatever will be easiest.
Something along the lines of this (quick search, use it as a springboard), is what I'm proposing.
If most of your work fits, making a sled (for crosscutting) is a great idea. I used mine way more than the fence. This guide is the best I've ever seen for ensuring your sled is square.
posted by Acari at 2:34 PM on May 27, 2020 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Oh man I don’t know why I didn’t google “diy rip fence” and now I am entranced by this new world of diy table extensions, fences, sleds and jigs. I am new to the table saw realm and excited to have something so versatile in my garage! I know that for safety I should also add a riving knife and a splitter and of course use push sticks. Is there anything else I should add to be safe and versatile?
posted by skookumsaurus rex at 6:26 PM on May 27, 2020 [3 favorites]
posted by skookumsaurus rex at 6:26 PM on May 27, 2020 [3 favorites]
Is there anything else I should add to be safe and versatile?
1) You may want to look into different blades for table saws. The one that came with the table saw may be dull, and there are many blades each designed to make different cuts.
2) There are many jigs that can be built/bought for specific cuts. Look into a cross cut sled, or a 45 degree cut sled, or a tapered leg jig sled, for example.
3) And maybe a zero clearance insert.
posted by obscure simpsons reference at 9:40 PM on May 27, 2020
1) You may want to look into different blades for table saws. The one that came with the table saw may be dull, and there are many blades each designed to make different cuts.
2) There are many jigs that can be built/bought for specific cuts. Look into a cross cut sled, or a 45 degree cut sled, or a tapered leg jig sled, for example.
3) And maybe a zero clearance insert.
posted by obscure simpsons reference at 9:40 PM on May 27, 2020
There are a ton of different jigs. Dead-tree books are also great resources for shopmade jigs etc. I use a homemade thin rip jig and angle-leg jig a fair bit. A variety of push sticks. But beyond that, it seems like the best practice is to go along until you get to a job that would be easier with a jig, and then build a jig for it.
posted by craven_morhead at 8:35 AM on May 28, 2020
posted by craven_morhead at 8:35 AM on May 28, 2020
Is there anything else I should add to be safe and versatile?
A riving knife can be difficult to impossible to fit to a saw that wasn't designed for one (my unisaw is like this). A splitter mounted on your throat insert will give you 99% of the benefits though with the draw back that it is a pain for non through cuts and doesn't work on angled cuts. The snap in style is easier to work with.
If you are doing any sort of nice work you should make/get zero clearance inserts. They do a better job and they increase safety.
A power switch with an off paddle or adding a paddle to your existing switch. I hate with the passion of a 1000 suns toggle switches or little/fiddly switches on something like a saw. Ideally you want something that provides low voltage protection so that a power blip stops the saw rather than allowing it to restart. Cheap Chinese starters are available in Canada from $100 on amazon with branded examples starting at a couple hundred bucks, probably cheaper in the US.
You want to make rip cuts with feather boards or something else that keeps your hands away from the blade. I've made a long one that actually goes over the blade with fingers before and after for narrow cuts. Really any time you can use a featherboard it'll be safer and often lead to a better cut. If you can completely guard the blade even better.
I keep my Forrest [not a typo] Woodworker II blade in my saw most of the time swapping it out only for special materials or if I'm doing a lot of ripping. If you have a lower power saw the thin kerf version is supposed to be pretty good. Just like a knife a good sharp blade is safer because it feeds easier, heats less and it less likely to be gripped by the material to be kicked back.
If you have the space some sort of outfeed table is desirable. I made my assembly table a hairs breadth lower than my saw to let it perform double duty.
If you get serious about wood working you should be concerned about air quality and fine dust. Good dust collection, working outside in in an extremely well ventilated shop, and or wearing a respirator are all options to keep your lungs safe.
posted by Mitheral at 12:35 PM on May 28, 2020
A riving knife can be difficult to impossible to fit to a saw that wasn't designed for one (my unisaw is like this). A splitter mounted on your throat insert will give you 99% of the benefits though with the draw back that it is a pain for non through cuts and doesn't work on angled cuts. The snap in style is easier to work with.
If you are doing any sort of nice work you should make/get zero clearance inserts. They do a better job and they increase safety.
A power switch with an off paddle or adding a paddle to your existing switch. I hate with the passion of a 1000 suns toggle switches or little/fiddly switches on something like a saw. Ideally you want something that provides low voltage protection so that a power blip stops the saw rather than allowing it to restart. Cheap Chinese starters are available in Canada from $100 on amazon with branded examples starting at a couple hundred bucks, probably cheaper in the US.
You want to make rip cuts with feather boards or something else that keeps your hands away from the blade. I've made a long one that actually goes over the blade with fingers before and after for narrow cuts. Really any time you can use a featherboard it'll be safer and often lead to a better cut. If you can completely guard the blade even better.
I keep my Forrest [not a typo] Woodworker II blade in my saw most of the time swapping it out only for special materials or if I'm doing a lot of ripping. If you have a lower power saw the thin kerf version is supposed to be pretty good. Just like a knife a good sharp blade is safer because it feeds easier, heats less and it less likely to be gripped by the material to be kicked back.
If you have the space some sort of outfeed table is desirable. I made my assembly table a hairs breadth lower than my saw to let it perform double duty.
If you get serious about wood working you should be concerned about air quality and fine dust. Good dust collection, working outside in in an extremely well ventilated shop, and or wearing a respirator are all options to keep your lungs safe.
posted by Mitheral at 12:35 PM on May 28, 2020
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posted by pilot pirx at 11:17 AM on May 27, 2020