How to attach prints using archival tape when DIY print framing?
March 15, 2006 5:08 PM Subscribe
Framing Tape Filter: I've started to frame my own prints/posters, and have a frame that's slightly larger than the print. The print slips, I need to keep it in place...
When using archival, water-soluble, acid-free tape while framing prints, does one attach the print to the matte or to the backing? Is one piece of tape sufficient enough to hold the print in place? Do I need to create a "hinge" with the tape?
I bought some Filmoplast P-90 tape for this purpose. What's the best conventional way of using tape like this while DIY framing?
Alternatively, are there other methods I could use to keep my smaller-size print from eventually slipping inside my larger-size frame while it's hanging on the wall? This is in cases, for example, where I hang a 8"x10" print in a 10"x12" frame, having a matteboard cut with an opening of 7"x9".
I use foamcore board for backing, standard matte boards that I bevel cut myself, metal frame pieces (purchased in packs of 2 pieces each), and plexiglass.
When using archival, water-soluble, acid-free tape while framing prints, does one attach the print to the matte or to the backing? Is one piece of tape sufficient enough to hold the print in place? Do I need to create a "hinge" with the tape?
I bought some Filmoplast P-90 tape for this purpose. What's the best conventional way of using tape like this while DIY framing?
Alternatively, are there other methods I could use to keep my smaller-size print from eventually slipping inside my larger-size frame while it's hanging on the wall? This is in cases, for example, where I hang a 8"x10" print in a 10"x12" frame, having a matteboard cut with an opening of 7"x9".
I use foamcore board for backing, standard matte boards that I bevel cut myself, metal frame pieces (purchased in packs of 2 pieces each), and plexiglass.
sorry, stupidly didn't read the question AT ALL.
me=fuckwit
You use two pieces of tape. You tape the print to the matboard using a doubled over piece of tape, so it can be hinged up,.
Always use tape whose adhesive is weaker than the thing you are matting.
posted by unSane at 5:27 PM on March 15, 2006
me=fuckwit
You use two pieces of tape. You tape the print to the matboard using a doubled over piece of tape, so it can be hinged up,.
Always use tape whose adhesive is weaker than the thing you are matting.
posted by unSane at 5:27 PM on March 15, 2006
the REAR matboard, not the window mat
fuck, I need to go to bed. sorry.
posted by unSane at 5:30 PM on March 15, 2006
fuck, I need to go to bed. sorry.
posted by unSane at 5:30 PM on March 15, 2006
Best answer: I'm going to try again.
The bevel mat is hinged to the rear board with acid-free cotton tape, so it opens and shuts like a greetings card. Conventionally it is hinged on the long side, upper or left, whichever is longer.
You cut two three-inch pieces of Filmoplast and fold them in half so the adhesive sides are pointing out. You attach these to the back of the artwork, about one third of the way in on each side, towards the top.
You then place the artwork on the rear matboard so that the bevel mat fits nicely, using the exposed sticky Filmoplast to attach it.
The theory is that when you do it like this you can lift the bevel mat to inspect the front of the artwork, and also lift the artwork itself so you can see any inscriptions on the back (eg photographer's signature, edition number).
Hope this helps. Sorry for the confusion.
posted by unSane at 5:59 PM on March 15, 2006
The bevel mat is hinged to the rear board with acid-free cotton tape, so it opens and shuts like a greetings card. Conventionally it is hinged on the long side, upper or left, whichever is longer.
You cut two three-inch pieces of Filmoplast and fold them in half so the adhesive sides are pointing out. You attach these to the back of the artwork, about one third of the way in on each side, towards the top.
You then place the artwork on the rear matboard so that the bevel mat fits nicely, using the exposed sticky Filmoplast to attach it.
The theory is that when you do it like this you can lift the bevel mat to inspect the front of the artwork, and also lift the artwork itself so you can see any inscriptions on the back (eg photographer's signature, edition number).
Hope this helps. Sorry for the confusion.
posted by unSane at 5:59 PM on March 15, 2006
This thread is closed to new comments.
http://www.dickblick.com/info/loganmatcutting/
http://www.popphoto.com/article.asp?section_id=4&article_id=1171
Example of the mat cutters you should buy:
http://www.dickblick.com/zz171/15/enlarge2/
The straight one is for cutting the mat board down to size -- you only need it if it is too big.
The cheap bevel mat cutters are fine. Buy the ruler that goes with it.
(I have the Logan 40" pro mat cutter but you don't need that to start out).
posted by unSane at 5:25 PM on March 15, 2006