Looking for information on what it takes to learn to make clothing

July 1, 2019 11:17 AM

I know it's not easy! Then again, I don't need to make it particularly quickly, so I figure it balances out? Regardless, I've always been interested in making clothing, but initially felt it was "not masculine," (ugh) and now am afraid about how much time it would get to get decent. Snowflake details within!

I currently have a lot of free time, so I figure it would be a good time to sort of make the initial investment in learning how to make clothing. I would be starting from absolutely scratch. My goal would be to work up to simple dresses, then more complex dresses, then traditional Chinese clothing. I know that's a bit of a jump in complexity! (note that the dresses would be for my gf, who is extremely into the idea...there's nothing wrong with men who wear dresses of course, I'm just not one of them atm!)

So, I guess I'm just trying to gauge how much time it'd take to reach each of those milestones. I mean, the way I sort of think of it as a programmer is that it's about...how much time you need to invest to make it so that you can make pieces faster, with fewer errors, and perhaps fancier design? I dunno if that's a good way to think about it.

I currently live in China, and I imagine I could probably find people to guide me one on one, though maybe they wouldn't be experienced teachers. I'm not sure if self-studying online is fine...I mean I'd even be willing to go to like a 2 week program if those exist and sort of kick-start things.

The making of traditional Chinese clothing I imagine is something people don't have a lot of experience with, and that...well, if I got to where I could make complex dresses, I'd probably just track down people here who do that and convince them to teach me. I have looked into it a little bit and there are classes on this and whatnot, though I'm not sure to what level of quality. I would want to make higher quality clothing and not stuff that looks like it came from party city, and I imagine that might be an exponential jump in difficulty? I dunno. I know nothing! (if your curious of the sort of clothing I mean here, google "Nirvana in Fire," the costume design for that show was absolutely gorgeous...and if you're intrigued, go watch the show, it's great! but I digress!!)

posted by wooh to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (13 answers total)

Yup, you have the right idea in starting with simple garments and working your way up.

The first thing you want to do is not only get a sewing machine, but learn every single tiny detail about that sewing machine. Read the manual ten times. Know what it can do, and what it can't do. (Oh! My sewing machine can make buttonholes, so I'll pick a sewing pattern that has some buttons.)

Then, go to either McCall's or Vogue patterns and pick one that you like that is in the "Very Easy" or "2 hour" (or less) categories. Also pick one that isn't too fitted, like a baggy shirt or flowing skirt, since you haven't yet learned how to adjust patterns, or the fact that sizes vary between the manufacturers. (When you do pick a size, go by the waist/bust size, NOT the numerical size. I am a 14 in retail stores but a 20/22 in sewing patterns.)

When you get the pattern, open it. It is full of wonderful instructions and illustrations. It has a glossary of terms you may need. It is fully prepared to hand hold you through your first garment.

It will start by showing you exactly how to lay your pattern pieces on the fabric, including how to fold that fabric to minimize the amount you need. Then it will tell you which two pieces to stitch together first. And so on. Before you know it, you will have a garment.

And while you're doing that, and it says "stay stitch the sleeve in other to gather it to fit to the armhole," you may think, "hmmm, I wonder if there's a more efficient way to gather it to fit the armhole," and you will then go to the vast, wide internet, and find a hundred different suggestions on how to gather a sleeve.

You are starting a wonderful process. Good luck!
posted by Melismata at 11:37 AM on July 1, 2019 [7 favorites]

Join a makerspace to get access to some sewing machines before you buy one of your own. It gives you a space to commit to a project and not just do it at home. There may also be a charity or community project doing a sewing project in your area.
Then, find a tutor. There are several ways to do it. My suggestion is to attend events in line with the kind of work you want to sew.
I am doing this with jewellery making right now! It's so much fun!
posted by parmanparman at 11:41 AM on July 1, 2019

As a novice sewer (sewist?) myself, honestly just buy a sewing machine and jump right in!

Personally I did not need classes so far, I just searched for [my sewing machine] + how to load a bobbin / how to wind a bobbin / how to thread a needle / how to straight stitch etc., and there is so much on YouTube.

Then I got a book about basic stitches from the library and practiced them on scraps of material until I could do all the nice seams I wanted.

With concentration and lots of free time, I would say 1 month max to learn your way around the machine and basic stitches and seams. For the work you want to do, focus especially on getting nice straight tidy seams where the raw edges are hidden. (A nice “finish” is what makes a garment with clean lines like what you want to do - excellent choice btw!)

Then you need to learn fabric - different types, the material it’s made of, how to prepare the material (wash dry and iron) - another week. Here you could focus on reading blogs for material that they used for the traditional Chinese dress and buy some samples, learn how it washes and how stretchy it is. Practice seams using that material - the more stretchy the material the more tricky it’ll be. You also need to learn about fabric grains at this point too - google it.

Next up is learning how to read patterns - another week.

Then honestly you learn by doing. Either Start with pillow cases and curtains (which don’t need a pattern and lots of tutorials online) or buy patterns for low risk clothes like an apron, then dresses. Allot 1-2 weeks for each project, from fabric purchase to final product.

So you might be starting your first major project in 3 months - but go easy on yourself, the seams will be crooked or pucker or whatever but you just learn by doing.

Also with sewing I find the trick is PATIENCE - 90% of sewing is material preparation, the actual sewing machine part is SO SMALL! Prep your material well, consciously, pin the pieces together conscientiously. If it doesn’t turn out how you like, don’t get frustrated just think calmly about what you tried and why it didn’t work and try something different.

As for the masculine aspect - one of my guy friends learned to sew so he could make his kid a paw patrol costume. It’s totally a thing.
posted by St. Peepsburg at 11:48 AM on July 1, 2019 [1 favorite]

I bought a sewing machine six or so years ago to do projects around the house: bags, canvas tool rolls, hemming jeans, sewing patches, etc. I agree with everyone above and have nothing to add save a recommendation for a book.

Besides the manual for my machine, the most useful book I've purchased was Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing. It's almost entirely devoted to clothes, so you'll find a lot of really useful information in it.

Enjoy! It's hugely satisfying, and, as with so many things, I only wish I'd taken it up a lot sooner than I did. Good luck!
posted by malthusan at 12:56 PM on July 1, 2019 [3 favorites]

You can definitely learn online (a ton of material is available on websites and YouTube). Classes might be fun if you can afford them, and there are also online sewing classes if you want that structure.

In addition to learning how to use your sewing machine you'll want to pay attention to things like when to use which kind of needle (it turns out this is extremely important) and how to press clothes well (if you don't know already). On the latter point, it turns out sewing is as much about pressing well and cutting well as it is about making actual stitches. At some point you'll want to start paying attention to how different kinds of fabrics flow and drape and how to treat each one, but that can wait until you've made a few basic things and feel like you've got a grip on the basics.

Depending on how much patience and free time you have you could learn quite quickly, as in being able to make clothing that looks good at least from a distance within a few weeks. It'll take time to learn to make neater seams, fewer mistakes, and so forth. (You'll make mistakes for a long time though, and maybe always; unpicking seams is part of sewing too.) Some elements of clothing are more tricky than others (armholes, and bindings in general, in my opinion). You might actually find traditional Chinese clothing less difficult than some types of modern clothing, if there's less in the way of close-fitting curves and fastenings to deal with.

Personally, I'd make a few very basic, non-curvy things before getting started on clothes - pillowcases, tote bags, maybe even a simple quilt. That way you can get used to using your machine, cutting and handling fabric, and pressing without worrying about getting a good fit or the more fiddly bits that clothes can require.

You might enjoy The Great British Sewing Bee if you can find it - besides everything else it gives you a good idea of the kinds of mistakes you can expect to make, and the good company you'll be in when you make them.

(Regarding the masculine bit - there have been tailors for about as long as there have been seamstresses, I should think. Not to mention male sail-makers, tent-makers, bag-and-other-gear-makers, upholsterers, weavers, cobblers, milliners, and many other wielders of needles...)

Enjoy!
posted by trig at 1:21 PM on July 1, 2019 [4 favorites]

(Also - make something for yourself, too. Wearing something you've made is a nice feeling.)
posted by trig at 1:27 PM on July 1, 2019 [1 favorite]

I don't recommend this as an ideal method, but my wife and I decided to make our own wedding clothes (Swedish folk costumes), and I'd never sewn clothes before (but had played with a sewing machine a few times). It worked out great! We did a few practice garments (or pieces of garments), and learned as we sewed. I made a suit jacket for myself for another wedding recently, and that took about two weeks (with some late nights).

The other advice above is definitely much better, but I kinda like jumping in the deep end - if the project is something you're invested in, it can be better to do five practice collars than to spend a month doing simple projects that bore you.

(again, I think everyone else's advice is much better. But if you want to just jump into it, that can work too).
posted by twirlypen at 1:42 PM on July 1, 2019 [1 favorite]

I sew a fair amount of clothing, and essentially taught myself by reading the manual and then reading online tutorials. I started with adjusting the side seams of shirts and pants, ignored my machine for years, then began sewing skirts [some styles are close enough to just being rectangles that they can be really easy to make] and dresses before starting to make more complicated things.

In addition to the "Big 4" patternmakers listed above (McCall's, Butterick, Vogue, Simplicity), there's a current wave of indie pattern companies, many of which sell their patterns in PDF format (instead of getting a big sheet of tissue paper that you cut out the individual pieces from, you'd get a file that you can print at home, tape together, and then cut out the pattern pieces). The putting-together of the PDFs can be really annoying, but it does give you more pattern options than just going with whatever you can find locally/have shipped to you in hardcopy.

These companies frequently (but not always!) have more detailed instructions, which can be really helpful when you're still getting a handle on the vocabulary. Indie pattern companies may also be aimed at a particular niche (plus sizes, a particular body type, a general aesthetic), so it may be helpful to find one your partner likes and work through their catalog in ascending order of difficulty. Here's a post from one of those companies on beginning to sew, using their own patterns as examples of skill stepping stones.
posted by quatsch at 1:48 PM on July 1, 2019 [1 favorite]

Many good suggestions above! In thinking about your question, I started to imagine a video-game-like skill tree of patterns and projects that could allow you to level up. Here's an initial draft of what that might look like; maybe this would be a way for you to approach your sewing learning. I find that half the fun of sewing is in the planning and research, and designing your own "skill tree" based on your interests and style might be a good way to organize your pattern research. I encourage to you check out indie sewing pattern companies (many are linked below) for ideas and great tutorials -- lots of them have "sewalongs" to accompany their patterns, so you get step-by-step instructions.

Possible "skill tree" of projects:

Intro Tutorial: Tote Bag
- new skills: precise cutting & marking, ironing, hemming, straight seams, working with woven fabric
- For instance, Dritz My First Tote Bag
- Time commitment: 1-2 hours

Skill Tree Branch 1: Basic Woven Skirts
- new skills: measuring and fitting, using elastic, setting a zipper, hemming, (optional) pockets

Simple woven skirt with elastic waistband
- For instance, the Sewaholic Rae or the Helen's Closet Donovan Skirt
- time needed: 1-2 days

Simple woven skirt with zipper
- or instance, the Colette Ginger
- time needed: 1-2 days

Skill Tree Branch 2: Basic Woven Tops
- new skills: measuring and fitting, sleeves, darts, bodices, woven bindings

Boxy shirt with cut-on sleeves
- For instance, the Tuesday Stitches Ultraviolet Tee or the 100 Acts of Sewing Shirt No. 1
- time needed: 1-2 days

Fitted shirt with set-in sleeves
- For instance, Love Notions Harmony Blouse
- time needed: 2-3 days

Skill Tree Branch 3: Basic Knits
- new skills: sewing with knit fabrics, knit bindings, using elastic

Simple knit skirt
- for instance, the Colette Mabel
- time needed: 1 day

Simple knit leggings
- For instance, the Patterns For Pirates Peg Legs (free pattern)
- time needed: 1-2 days

Skill Tree Branch 4: Dresses
new skills: wide variety of skills learned, depending on what styles you want to sew.

Here are three I very commonly see recommended; there are SO MANY more out there!
- Colette Moneta, a simple knit dress
- Love Notions Laundry Day Tee Dress, a simple knit dress
- McCall's 6696 Shirtdress, a more intermediate-level woven dress

This is by no means comprehensive, but it might be a way to work your way up to the skills you want. You might think about finding some inspiration patterns -- something that you'd really like to sew, but don't have the skills for yet -- and then see if you can find simpler patterns that incorporate elements of the more complex pattern. For instance, if you want to make a complex dress that involves a wrap collar, look for shirts that feature a wrap element.

Good luck & have fun!
posted by ourobouros at 1:58 PM on July 1, 2019 [12 favorites]

I just started sewing again, so along with the great tips above, I think you need an iron and an ironing board.
posted by b33j at 3:19 PM on July 1, 2019 [3 favorites]

Youtube is a great resource for 'how-to' videos: it's very very helpful to have someone show you how to properly sew a dart or set a sleeve or sew in a zipper -- the ultimate incoherent cursed thing that makes NO sense at all when reading directions but that is instantly crystal clear when you see it done.

Get the very best machine you can find. A cheap one will crap out in all kinds of annoying ways, but a good used Pfaff or Bernina or even a pre-90s Singer will be AMAZING.

Learn how to thread it; learn how to fill and load a bobbin, learn about bobbin tension and thread tension and what needle and tension to use on what fabrics. Learn about fabrics: you need thread that will shrink and stretch in the same ratio as the fabric or what you make will fall apart in the wash.

Buy the very best fabric scissors that you can and never use them for anything else or you will ruin them. Estate sales are often good places to find good used old sewing machines, fabric and notions.

Patience. Patience and an infinite attention to detail are all good. Finish seams. Press. Try things on dozens and dozens of times. Fit a muslin before you actually cut that good fabric. Shit will drive you MAD and everything will take hours more than you expect. Become one with the stitch ripper.

Besides machine, fabric and thread, the stitch ripper, patterns and scissors you'll need an iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, good pins, good needles, pincushion, measuring tape.

And find some good local help! Classes will make a HUGE difference because someone can show you what they mean (and you're dealing with fabric, which is often a question of feel).
posted by jrochest at 12:34 AM on July 2, 2019

There was a good online course website called Craftsy, but it appears that it's now Bluprint, and is nowhere near as easy to navigate as the old website. However, it's now subscription based, and you can trial it free for 7 days, so I recommend signing up for at least the first trial and watching as many beginner courses as you can. Also, 2nd'ing the Great British Sewing Bee, you'll pick up a lot by osmosis.

Given your aims, I wouldn't bother learning about stretch fabric, as all traditional clothing is woven. It also looks like you don't need to worry about zips, which is nice, because zips hard. Or even elastic or buttons. There might be a fair bit of hand finishing though. If you want to do high end traditional chinese, a quick google suggests that you'll be using silk, which is a pain to work with, and needs patience and skill, so don't start there.

I'd start with something simpler than a dress. Something with straight sides, many bags and home accessories are pretty straightforward. Suggestion 1 and 2. Then maybe a skirt from a big pattern company. Many companies have print at home options for patterns, which might be easiest in China, make sure you pick a beginners or very easy pattern and boring woven fabric. Then a dress, then a tricky dress, then start again from the beginning with slippery fabric.

Depending on the shape of your girlfriend, fit may become an issue, as patterns are made for an idealised person, which few of us are. It's fairly easy to chop inches off the bottom of a skirt, slightly harder to shorten a torso, and gets super tricky when armholes or bustlines need to be altered. Most of the alterations have offensive names that imply that the person is shaped wrong (e.g. Full Bust Adjustment, Sway Back, Dowagers Hump), but once you know what the alteration is called, it's easier to google. There are books too, and I think Craftsy has a course.
posted by kjs4 at 12:41 AM on July 2, 2019

My jaw dropped ... if you have access to apprentice with a taylor, do it!!!

I had come in to say: Try taking yourself through the sequence of drafting a custom sloper for the recipient from their measurements. There are different formulas to approach the fitting with; Bunka method is the rage now but lately I've been itching to track down my mom's japanese pattern books from the seventies to see how it compares; every pattern section had a few pages that was all, start with the sloper!

Once the sloper is on paper, make a muslin and fit it to the recipient, as bodies always have asymmetries. You now have a seed pattern to base the garments from, the rest is a colletion of details.

How long? I'd think 4 hours a day, four days a week would get you somewhere decent in 3-4 months, even without a tutor. I'm thinking like an average college quarter intro course here in the U.S. Something like: Week 1, Sloper. Week 2, Live fitting, draft a skirt. Week 3, Construct skirt, refine machine techique, explore finishing details like plackets, hems, pressing. Weeks 4-5, Draft and construct shirt/blouse, learn live fitting of neck, bust and armhole, refine finishing techniques like curved hems and buttonholes. Etc.

FWIW, You might find the traditional clothing easier to tackle before the complex dresses. Good luck!
posted by Rube R. Nekker at 8:19 AM on July 2, 2019 [1 favorite]