Which drip is less bad for now?
May 12, 2019 9:08 PM Subscribe
I have a Watts washing machine shut-off valve that is suddenly leaking a lot (steady drip) from the handle when in the "off" position. When it's in the "on" positition, it's leaking much more slowly... but then there is also some water slowly leaking from the hose connection at the back of the washing machine. Until I can get this repaired, do I go with the slower or faster leak?
I discovered all of this when my washer suddenly refused to fill on its second load of laundry for the day. I turned off the water at the washer while I unhooked the hoses at the washer to see if there were any problems... which is when I realized that the water suddenly started dripping from the shut-off handle. (Also there didn't seem to be any debris in the hoses, though one washer seemed like it needed replacing. I don't have a replacement at the moment). I stuck the hoses back on, tightened them, and turned the valve back on which resulted in an immediate reduction in the dripping from the handle of the valve. But I'm worried that what's happening is just pressure building up in the hoses instead? Basically, I can't get this repaired until tomorrow night in the best case scenario, and while I can handle a drip I don't want flood. Any tips? Is the leaking from the valve when off an indication that it's not doing anything to prevent the water from flowing?
I discovered all of this when my washer suddenly refused to fill on its second load of laundry for the day. I turned off the water at the washer while I unhooked the hoses at the washer to see if there were any problems... which is when I realized that the water suddenly started dripping from the shut-off handle. (Also there didn't seem to be any debris in the hoses, though one washer seemed like it needed replacing. I don't have a replacement at the moment). I stuck the hoses back on, tightened them, and turned the valve back on which resulted in an immediate reduction in the dripping from the handle of the valve. But I'm worried that what's happening is just pressure building up in the hoses instead? Basically, I can't get this repaired until tomorrow night in the best case scenario, and while I can handle a drip I don't want flood. Any tips? Is the leaking from the valve when off an indication that it's not doing anything to prevent the water from flowing?
Response by poster: That's helpful, thanks! Just one point of clarification: it stopped filling with a *new* load; it ran one load fine then didn't want to fill when I began the next.
posted by TwoStride at 4:33 AM on May 13, 2019
posted by TwoStride at 4:33 AM on May 13, 2019
Best answer: Is the leaking from the valve when off an indication that it's not doing anything to prevent the water from flowing?
No. The valve seal that’s leaking here is the one between the interior and exterior of the valve, i.e. the valve stem packing unless it’s a ball valve. This is a completely different thing from the seal that blocks water from getting to the machine when the valve is closed.
posted by jon1270 at 4:44 AM on May 13, 2019 [3 favorites]
No. The valve seal that’s leaking here is the one between the interior and exterior of the valve, i.e. the valve stem packing unless it’s a ball valve. This is a completely different thing from the seal that blocks water from getting to the machine when the valve is closed.
posted by jon1270 at 4:44 AM on May 13, 2019 [3 favorites]
Another consideration - which leak is easier to contain with a bucket?
posted by leslies at 6:28 AM on May 13, 2019 [1 favorite]
posted by leslies at 6:28 AM on May 13, 2019 [1 favorite]
Whichever is more likely to create permanent damage to floors or walls should be dealt with immediately.
posted by Enid Lareg at 10:16 AM on May 13, 2019 [1 favorite]
posted by Enid Lareg at 10:16 AM on May 13, 2019 [1 favorite]
Had a similar washer valve failure a bit over a year ago, and have dealt with other washer-related floods in the past. First thing to do is to find the main water shut-off for your home and turn it off. Then the specific fail state of the washer valve will not flood everything everywhere.
You can cope without water until you get this repaired, though it's not going to be fun. Much, much better to make the only repair needed the valve itself and not everything else.
posted by asperity at 1:05 AM on May 14, 2019 [2 favorites]
You can cope without water until you get this repaired, though it's not going to be fun. Much, much better to make the only repair needed the valve itself and not everything else.
posted by asperity at 1:05 AM on May 14, 2019 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: Update: I went with a bucket under the steady drip until I could get the valve replaced the next day. Things looked good until I later discovered a minor flood because one o-ring wasn't quite in place. Lesson learned: definitely "stress test" any valve replacements before letting your plumber/handyman go on their way!
(And if any of you were curious about the washing machine problems, the pump somehow got stuck on emptying and once we basically unplugged it, kicked it a few times, and plugged it back in things have worked).
Knock on wood, things have been dry since then. Thanks, all!
posted by TwoStride at 12:41 PM on June 12, 2019 [1 favorite]
(And if any of you were curious about the washing machine problems, the pump somehow got stuck on emptying and once we basically unplugged it, kicked it a few times, and plugged it back in things have worked).
Knock on wood, things have been dry since then. Thanks, all!
posted by TwoStride at 12:41 PM on June 12, 2019 [1 favorite]
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Simply because the washing machine suddenly refused to keep filling in the middle of a load.
Internal washing machine fill valves are actuated by solenoids against incoming water pressure; in other words, your water pressure pushes the valve inside the machine toward closed position, and the solenoid holds it open in opposition to that pressure.
So either the solenoid failed suddenly and that caused the fill valve to close, and the leakage is something that's been going on for awhile that you noticed only now because of the solenoid failure, or the water pressure suddenly increased so much that it overcame the force exerted by the solenoid. In the latter case, that pressure is much more likely to burst your hoses than your pipes, and you should close the external valves (both of them) to remove the danger to your hoses.
It's Spring in the Northern Hemisphere, and people whose watersheds were snowy over the winter are experiencing thaw and runoff right now, and if you are at the mercy of a poorly managed utility, your water pressure could have spiked suddenly because they filled the reservoirs and water towers too full.
posted by jamjam at 12:55 AM on May 13, 2019 [1 favorite]