Help an overweight androgynous woman dress to impress!
February 17, 2019 10:49 PM   Subscribe

I will be having more occasions at which I need to dress more formally (maybe at two different levels of formality above blue jeans). I am mainly looking for recommendations about pants. But I am also open to suggestions about tops, blazers and shoes. I am also open to thoughts on accessories that aren’t too femme.

I am about 170 pounds and 5 feet, 8 inches, U.S. size 16. I have little or no definition between my waist and hips. My shoulders are broad, my bust is fairly busty, my arms and upper body are thick. My wife is biased, but she says my legs are my best feature.

I think I am in the market for one or two pairs of chinos and one or two pairs of slacks. (Skirts and dresses are not an option.) Usable pockets are really important! I generally wear men’s jeans, and use three pockets. I rarely use a purse and want to keep it that way.

I used to really like Dockers, but I think they changed at some point. I haven’t looked at them in years.

I am the kind of person who shops at J.C. Penney, Kohl’s, Land’s End/Eddie Baer/L.L. Bean.
When I dress more formally, I like “classic” type stuff. I like my style to be just feminine enough that people can't tell I am a woman.

I like my shirts to always have collars. I am now too fat to look good with them tucked in. But I think regular shirttails out looks sloppy. So I wear a straight hem tucked out.

I now have a gray pair of slacks and a black blazer.

I have fair skin and hair and blue eyes. At the moment, my hair is a bowl cut, but I want to soon get a better style, but still keep it low maintenance.

I have some nice boots for winter. In warm weather, I usually wear boat shoes. I will not wear heels. I do have a pair of dressy black shoes. Shoes should maybe be its own question, because my feet are hard to fit. I wear about a size 9, but they are wide in front and narrow in the back.

I am looking to buy in Albuquerque or online.

Maybe my next question won't start all the paragraphs with "I". :)
posted by maurreen to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (18 answers total) 8 users marked this as a favorite
 
Response by poster: Also, I am 56 years old but told that I look younger.

I'd like to look both relatable and like I should be taken seriously.
posted by maurreen at 11:04 PM on February 17, 2019


Get the darkest jeans you can - no "whiskers" or "fades" or anything like that. My industry doesn't require anything beyond jeans... maybe yours does.

Waist-length blazers. You can wear them with anything to dress it up. I have five. Pockets in these blazers are reliable for at least your phone but not always big enough for anything else. Inside pockets are the perfect story.

You can get low-heeled, or flat shoes that look dressy. I'd try Zappos - they let you order everything with free shipping and no cost to return it. Buy a dozen pairs of various sizes and go from there.
posted by bendy at 11:34 PM on February 17, 2019


I don't know what time of year this is for in what climate or what your budget is but even the blog at Kirrin Finch is worth browsing for dressier andri clothing ideas.
posted by DarlingBri at 1:22 AM on February 18, 2019


Response by poster: This is for all seasons (inclding what passes for winter in the Sothwest).

I'd like to spend less than $50 per item, but I am open if something is a really good value.
posted by maurreen at 4:26 AM on February 18, 2019


Response by poster: Ugh. Sorry to threadsit. I just realized I have a typo.

It should be "I like my style to be just feminine enough that people can tell I am a woman."

OK, I will bow out now.
posted by maurreen at 5:42 AM on February 18, 2019


Check out the Find Your Fit column in Autostraddle.
posted by Gin and Broadband at 5:45 AM on February 18, 2019


Seconding Find your Fit.

I think I am in the market for one or two pairs of chinos and one or two pairs of slacks.

I would recommend Uniqlo's Ezy Ankle-Length Pants. Depending on your inseam, they might not wear as ankle pants (they do not for me, as I am 5'6" with an inseam around 28" or so.) However, these are definitely pants you can dress up or down. They're not natural fibers, do note, but these are the main dressier pants I have in my closet because they're just so darn comfortable. They come in a variety of muted patterns and colors – and, four pockets. Sizing online goes to 2XL, but they're stretchy as well, so have a look.

For chinos, I would look at Uniqlo's (again) or perhaps Target's A New Day line. For me Target's pants are very hit or miss, so the caveat I'd toss in is that the pockets are generally smaller.

I like my shirts to always have collars. I am now too fat to look good with them tucked in.

You may want to consider a French tuck – although I'm guessing it's probably almost passé now. With a blazer or cardigan over it, it looks just a little nicer.

(Always happy to talk pants!)
posted by hijinx at 5:59 AM on February 18, 2019


Also andro here: I tend to shop at H&M and Uniqlo quite a bit, but I am uncertain about how inclusive they are with their sizes (I tend to have to buy two sizes up for anything to fit pants wise and I am fairly small). I haven't ordered anything from Wild Fang yet but they definitely are queer oriented if a bitttt pricey. Looks like their sizes range from XS-2X though in shirts and up to size 20 in pants.
posted by Young Kullervo at 6:03 AM on February 18, 2019 [1 favorite]


Fellow afab androgyne here. With pants pockets, it's very easy to add length if you or your wife sew at all. I would go for stuff that fits and is comfortable, and then add length to the pockets at home. This is what I do now that I'm too luscious to wear men's trousers, and if you can do that tiny bit of modification it makes the hell that is women's pants that much easier to tolerate.

They do still fit weird, though. I wore men's pants pretty much exclusively up until a few years ago and don't understand why it's so hard to get a good fit in women's pants.
posted by bile and syntax at 9:40 AM on February 18, 2019


The closer the fit of your pants, the less sloppy an untucked shirt will look. I wear an untucked shirt with black stretch jeans (at which point they no longer look like jeans) with boots or oxford shoes and it looks business casual. It's also a good look if you have nice legs but carry extra weight around the middle. You can add a cardigan or blazer to make it dressier.
posted by Polychrome at 10:07 AM on February 18, 2019 [3 favorites]


So, Land's End is actually going to be a great resource for you. You already shop there and know their sizing, which takes a big chunk of ordering pressure off, and shopped carefully they have very nice professional looking items at reasonable prices.

I would suggest you look at their stretch pull-on ankle pants, like these. If your legs are your best feature and you like to have a little extra room and drape in your tops, then highlighting your legs with a close-fitting pair of pants will make your outfit look well-balanced. The typical formula is 'loose on top, tight on the bottom, OR vice versa'.

Their mid-rise cropped chinos are also a good-looking pair of pants that have a little bit more of an office-appropriate vibe and they will look very good with boat shoes, oxfords, loafers, or any other summer shoe you choose to add to your wardrobe. (Speaking of shoes, may I suggest Born? I'm narrow-heeled myself, and find them extremely comfortable. I own a pair of Born oxfords that I honestly think I could hike in. These loafers or something similar in their line would be a nice upgrade to a boat shoe for a more formal day.)

The caveat with these pants is that the pocket situation is probably terrible. That's women's pants for you. Frankly, most modern-cut pants for women look bad when the pockets are in use anyway, as the current style trend is quite tight on the thigh and anything in a pocket shows as a bulge. I would consider re-evaluating what you carry with you daily, reducing their size as much as possible, and seeking blazers and jackets with useable pockets instead. A wallet will still be bulky, but perhaps you'll find you can get by with a money clip. Ditch any large keychains, too. Alternatively, if you are at all willing to consider carrying a bag with you, it is possible to find quite masculine small bags for use on days when you need to bring more than your pockets will hold.

With tops, a huge amount of the 'formality' and 'dressiness' of your look is going to come down to your bra, not your shirt. If you already like to wear collared button-downs, you likely already own several tops that will look appropriate. If they fit correctly across the chest with no gaping at the buttons, you're good. It's all about getting your boobs into the right place underneath those shirts. I'm going to say the same dang thing every woman in America says when bras are discussed: make sure you are wearing the correct size. Visit r/aBraThatFits and check out their sidebar. They've got tips for measuring yourself accurately and a wonderful listing of companies that cater to larger sizes. If you are large-busted and wearing a bra that allows your breasts to sag even a slight amount, you immediately look heavier and less well put-together. It sucks because 'good' bras are expensive and annoying to find, but there's a good chance it's what is standing between you and a tailored look to your shirts. Even one good bra for days you need to go to meetings will be a worthwhile investment.

The bra thing is going to be more important for you in the summer. In the winter you can take a kind-of-OK-fitting top and make it look great by popping on a blazer or a v-neck sweater over it. In the Southwestern summer, you're probably going to be wearing one layer only and sweating like crazy even then. (I live in Tucson - I understand!)

Speaking of hot weather, if you aren't already striving to buy natural fiber clothing, do yourself a favor and start. I swear there's a ten-dregree difference between a cotton or a linen shirt and a polyester shirt, and the natural fiber shirt won't smell as bad from some sweat either.

As far as accessories go, don't underestimate the power of a watch to dress up an outfit. It's not necessary to go crazy-expensive for a watch - you can get a good-looking watch for under a hundred dollars if you aren't concerned with an extremely accurate movement. Something like this is a good way to fancy up an outfit without wearing full-on jewelry.

If you get a couple of well-fitting blazers that you are happy wearing, a pocket square or two can bring a beautiful touch of masc-reading personality to an outfit, too. I personally have great success finding fun pocket squares and scarves at thrift stores - no need to drop eighty bucks on a square of decorative silk. Blazers and sports coats for broad shoulders abound at J Crew Outlet and Banana Republic - wait for the sales.

Pay attention also the maintenance of your outfit: Use a lint roller every day before you leave the house. If something is labelled dryclean or handwash only, follow those instructions, don't just toss it in the washing machine. Iron or steam shirts before wearing them. Experiment with buttoning your shirts all the way up, or rolling your sleeves up - you might find it adds an element of personality without needing to buy a new item.

Once you've chosen a new hairstyle that you're happy with, set up a regular appointment with your hairdresser and get a trim every 6 weeks to two months. A well-maintained haircut makes a crazy difference to an outfit. Your hair is an accessory, too. If you don't have a skincare routine, get one. No need for a crazy complicated one, but a simple cleanser, moisturiser and suncreen routine can really brighten your face and make you look a bit more polished.

Good luck!
posted by DSime at 10:22 AM on February 18, 2019 [2 favorites]


I'm a middle-aged cis guy, so you should weigh my advice accordingly. . . but, a couple of sportcoats from the men's section of the department store might be worth a try. Expect to spend 60 USD and a week on tailoring to make the sleeves and waist fit, unless you're very lucky. It'll cover everything notable about your pants, provide many pockets, and suggest a level of formality that works in nearly any situation. I've known several female colleagues who absolutely rock that look. (My spouse has tried, but her shoulders aren't quite the right size for most cheap off-the-shelf men's wear, which she finds endlessly frustrating, 'cause Women's blazers are mostly badly constructed, pocketless shit.)

On the wide-toe shoes thing, Lems is worth a try. They tend to be pretty casual, though.
posted by eotvos at 10:32 AM on February 18, 2019 [1 favorite]


So I think people are right that blazers and jackets are going to really help with the formality. Maybe waistcoats would work too? And I would really recommend a great haircut. The right cut will make you look sharper and make it easier to dress up well with minimal effort. I have a really good wash and wear short haircut that makes me look up to date and works equally as well from casual to smart.

In terms of accessories, jewellery can also amp up the formality. I think it will look best if it's the right scale and shape for you (if your figure is angular, then more straight lines, if rounded/curvy then more curved lines) and need not be femme at all. YMMV but other accessory ideas that can read more formal are skinny-ish scarves, pocket squares for jackets, cufflinks. For shoes, one approach is wearing heels, another approach is more obviously feminine smart flat shoes (low vamp with pointed or almond toes), and third alternative is shoes that more refined in general, with a sole that doesn't extend much past the upper.
posted by plonkee at 11:57 AM on February 18, 2019


If your legs are your best feature and your upper body is thick, I'm guessing you might be "apple shaped". This label can be helpful for searching for styles you want to replicate.

The link above is to Stitch Fix. I have used them once or twice and found it so-so and too expensive, but their blog and advice might be useful. You can apply the principles to items that match the level of femininity you want to hit. One general rule is that layers make you look more dressed up (so blazers are a good idea). I also live in a hot climate so layers seem ridiculous to me, but even a short sleeved cardigan or light weight blazer makes you look more put together. Maybe scarves? Not my thing but could be yours.

Specifically, I'm guessing tighter fitting pants (skinny pants/leggings/slim fit) with flowy/looser tops would look nice on you. Luckily for you, slim fit pants are in. I would suggest getting them from nicer places/spending slightly more because I've found the quality is higher. I have a more expensive pair of leggings from Ann Taylor and they feel good, aren't see-through, and are more like real pants (though I wouldn't wear leggings to professional settings except as a layer). Places to look: Torrid, Nordstrom Rack (good return policy), Maurices, White House Black Market (up to size 16), JC Penney.

For shoes, since you don't want heels, you might look for an Oxford-type shoe. Personally I think they can be super cute, professional, and since it's a men's wear style it might strike the right femme note for you. There are a range of styles and trendiness features (platforms/wedges, colors, with or without laces, etc.).
posted by kochenta at 12:20 PM on February 18, 2019


I would think about finding the longest tailored jacket or blazer you think you look good in and distributing your pocket-stuff between the jacket (light things only, because as soon as it's weighed down it drags on the shoulders and looks much less in control), the high pockets in the pants, which will be hidden by the blazer, and when possible a waistcoat, which only has to look unburdened where the jacket shows it -- the shoulder-drag of the waistcoat is hidden even when it holds a lot.

Unfortunately we don't `do' waistcoats much any more, and the places I can think of -- Filsons? Scott eVest? are not cheap. I've seen them in some really smashing androgynous looks, though, with low boots or oxfords.
posted by clew at 12:53 PM on February 18, 2019


Response by poster: These are all great answers! You've given me a lot to explore. Thanks for all the help!
posted by maurreen at 7:40 PM on February 18, 2019


I'm about the same size and age as you. I wear Gloria VanderBilt black jeans and t-shirts from Apartment 9, all available at Kohl's.

The jeans have all the pockets - I carry cellphone, keys, and a tiny cardholder-style wallet everyday; then I add chargers and cables and snacks and tampons as needed. They fit on my hips but are too big on my waist, so I sew 2 darts in the back.

The shirts are made of a stretchy rayon fabric that make them look nicer. I get the various black patterns - I think it makes it look like an "outfit" with black pants. They are just t-shirts but I wear them to the office and church and nice restaurants all the time. Many of their styles have long hems but I usually just get regular shirts and wear them untucked. No blazer or accessories.
posted by CathyG at 10:53 AM on February 19, 2019


Talbot's and Loft. I'm a bit bigger than you, but find both stores to have classic cuts that are flattering. My work environment is on the industrial side, and I've found slacks (and sweaters, especially at Loft!) that blend in just right.
posted by AliceBlue at 1:16 PM on February 19, 2019


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