Doesn't need to be efficient, but needs full leg extension

October 26, 2018 9:05 PM

Bicycle recommendation request: small enough to fit in the trunk of a 2008 Subaru Outback a bonus.

Planning ahead: I'll want to be recovering my pulmonary function in the Spring following smoking cessation. I'd developed into a good cyclist 15 years ago (while a smoker) in my mid 20s during a prolonged transit strike when I was working my first job out of college, but haven't biked regularly since the strike ended.

It was on a decent $500 bike from Canadian Tire with mountain bike-style tires in an urban setting with huge elevation changes (both ways, about 9km). It was my childhood bike my dad bought me in '90 or '91 - so it was a 10 yo bike by then.

Work just moved to a rural area; "circling the block" is 6.5km with some small elevation change.

I'm planning on either leaving a bike at work (undesirable) or keeping one in the back of my car and doing a circuit at the beginning of my lunch break and/or at the beginning/end of the day - using trying to improve my time/ increase circuits as the "gamification." Cycling to work isn't an option (35km with a g.maps estimate of 2 hours each way - I moved to a much less desirable area to turn my 3 hour by-car return commute down to 1h20m).

So basically I want (or do I?) an inefficient bike, but tall enough for full leg extensions (I'm not tall, 5'9" with stumpy legs), with a bonus that it can fit inside the trunk of a 2008 Subaru Outback with the integral cover drawn (the car is parked in a secure location overnight, but it's still a property crime prone area - no need to invite attention).

Any suggestions for a specific bike or a type of bike?

I'm not enamourd with foldable bikes because they tend to have really short ... pedal-gearcenter length. I think that I enjoy cycling when I can do full leg extensions when peddling. I'm pretty sure I'm not getting the terminology right.

posted by porpoise to Health & Fitness (7 answers total)

I manage a bike store in Vancouver. Memail me, and we can talk about this.
posted by PareidoliaticBoy at 9:45 PM on October 26, 2018 [2 favorites]

There are full size folding bikes such as the Montague Paratrooper Express
posted by Sophont at 10:01 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]

I'm not enamourd with foldable bikes because they tend to have really short ... pedal-gearcenter length.

I think you mean the crank length. And while I'm not a folding bike expert, I don't know of one that has cranks with less than standard length.

As for recommendation, I'm 197cm (6'5"-ish), and my Dahon Espresso is just like a standard 26" ATB that happens to fold down the middle, nothing like your average foldable. I don't know how well it'd fit in the boot of that Subaru Outback; you can't easily turn or detach the handlebars to get them in line with the front wheel, but you can take the front wheel out (and if necessary the rear wheel too, they have quick-release levers) so that you can get the bars in line with the frame. From that point on it's pretty flat but obviously still rather large. Eyeballing a picture of an Outback I'd expect it to fit, though.
posted by Stoneshop at 3:03 AM on October 27, 2018 [1 favorite]

With stumpy legs you probably should have shorter-than-average crank arms. Getting that full leg extension is just a matter of correct seatpost length/adjustment. I’ve never owned a folding bike but your stated reason for staying away from them suggests you misunderstand the relationships between these body and bike parts.
posted by jon1270 at 3:27 AM on October 27, 2018 [1 favorite]

I have started using a GeoOrbital electric wheel for my 33km commute. Typically, GoogleMaps estimates cycling speed at 11mph. With a full charge, I can average 19mph. That would bring your commute time down to just over an hour.
posted by andythebean at 8:12 AM on October 27, 2018

A good folding bike will have its parts in the usual places with respect to one another: crank length, seat height, bottom bracket position, handlebars, and the points where the wheels touch the ground. Here’s an image of a Brompton showing how it’s spatially identical to a full-size bike. You should have the same pedaling experience on both, though you should definitely do a test ride. Looks like West Point Cycles in your city carries Bromptons.
posted by migurski at 10:23 AM on October 27, 2018 [1 favorite]

It sounds like you're talking about crankarm length. This is basically a non-issue. The difference between the shortest cranks you can find and the longest is 15 mm; I'm the same height as you, and we typically choose between 170 mm and 172.5 mm. If you can't fully extend your leg, then raise the seat. If you can't raise your seat high enough, your bike is too small for you.

There are high-quality small-wheel folders out there. In addition to the Mongague mentioned above, Ritchey makes "normal" folders that are very high quality (check out their "breakaway" frames). Note: not cheap.

You don't want an inefficient bike. An inefficient bike is a bad bike. I always recommend getting the best bike you can afford. If you're afraid you won't get enough of a workout riding an efficient bike, consider that at moderate speeds, almost all of your resistance is aerodynamic, and even the most aero bike is still pretty un-aerodynamic (you're churning two giant eggbeaters through the air with your spokes). Just raising your speed from 20 mph to 21 mph requires that you put out about 20% more power, which is not trivial.

You'll get more for your money with a used bike, and you can often get a good deal on a new-but-last-year closeout.
posted by adamrice at 12:59 PM on October 27, 2018 [1 favorite]