Are cashmere/alpaca garments worth it?
January 29, 2018 4:44 AM   Subscribe

I have heard that cashmere and alpaca don't have much "memory", so garments made with them will tend to stretch out and lose their shape. So what are the practical implications when deciding whether to buy cashmere/alpaca sweaters/hats? That would make me think cashmere/alpaca shouldn't be used for those sorts of garments, but they often are.
posted by tangerine_poppies to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (23 answers total) 6 users marked this as a favorite
 
I can think of two things right off the bat that people don't think about:
1. Cashmere is warm. Like really warm. I have met tons of people who buy it and then don't wear it because of that.
2. For storage, cashmere really should be laid flat and not hung for the longest life. That can be a drag and take up a lot of space.
posted by Tchad at 4:52 AM on January 29, 2018 [3 favorites]


I had some alpaca socks and they were wonderful and warm but I wore through the heels VERY quickly...
posted by sedimentary_deer at 4:59 AM on January 29, 2018 [1 favorite]


From the perspective of a compulsive knitter, they're both very soft, warm fibers that drape beautifully. My experience is that you usually see them blended with other fibers, usually wool in various percentages, to make them more suitable to the desired end product. A sweater that's 80% merino and 20% alpaca, for example, will be softer, warmer, and smoother feeling than something made entirely of merino, and while it would be somewhat less durable (for example, more prone to pilling) than 100% merino, it's also going to be far, far more durable (and, frankly, wearable) than something made of 100% alpaca or cashmere.

In my opinion, a 100% alpaca or cashmere garment isn't worth it as a status piece--they could be beautiful the first few times you wear them, but will be far more difficult to maintain than a blend would be, and for many people (and many climates) are ultimately less wearable anyhow. Some people do purchase them as status pieces, though, apparently because they're perceived as inherently higher quality fibers, and there's a social value in that to them. Other people, especially if looking for something exceedingly warm, might decide that the trade-off in durability and shape is worth it to them--I've spent a lot of time knitting 100% alpaca bedsocks for people who're just desperate for warm feet. It kind of depends on what you, personally, define as "worth it".

I think for most use cases, though, blended fibers are a great option that can give you the sheen/warmth/softness of cashmere or alpaca without much compromise on durability and shape.
posted by mishafletch at 5:20 AM on January 29, 2018 [8 favorites]


Response by poster: I'm always cold, so warm is good! And I guess I'm not going to subject a sweater or hat to the kind of wear a sock would get.

mishafletch, thank you for your long response! I'm not so worried about the washing or pilling (basically, there's a cashmere sale near me of really good-quality 100% cashmere and the sales assistant told me that because their fibres are so long, their products are (gently) machine-washable, and don't tend to pill, and they replace items if customers have any complaints). (OK, yes I know it might not be entirely true, as he's trying to sell things, but he seemed trustworthy...) My concern is more about keeping/losing shape. Do you know about this aspect?
posted by tangerine_poppies at 5:25 AM on January 29, 2018


A couple of things, from a knitter and spinner who's seen a fair amount of those fibers:

1) Blends. On their own they don't have much memory, but blending with wool helps.

2) Weight of the garment. 100% cashmere sweaters are often very thin and lightweight. That's partly because of the warmth, but partly it's because a big chunky sweater out of cashmere would pill and sag and be less appealing in spite of using 4-6x the fiber. I made a lightweight sweater out of an alpaca/silk blend a few years ago and it doesn't grow in any significant way. A hat has a lot less weight and a lot more support, than a boxy sweater, and can often do okay even if the yarn is thick. I wouldn't depend on a 100% alpaca hat to stay very tight around my ears, though.

3) Gauge. Any knitwear that is loosely knit will have more stretch and drape than something knit more tightly. I've seen a couple of loosely knit items from thickish alpaca that stretch right out. Again, if you look at a well-made cashmere sweater, it's not only thin but also knit at a pretty fine gauge.

For a non-knitter, I'd say that something you put on and say "Oh, this is so thick, loose, drapey, and cozy!" is likely to grow, as it's probably loosely knit from relatively thick yarn, and all the weight is hanging from the shoulders so it has nowhere to go but down. A thin well-structured item, a blend, an inner or outer layer attached to a better-behaved material--all those should be fine.
posted by tchemgrrl at 5:33 AM on January 29, 2018 [2 favorites]


There are differing levels of quality for knit cashmere garments, and I have also seen cashmere that was woven rather than knit. And then also whatever the process is for making blazers and long winter coats. Those are all very sturdy, in my experience. I buy cashmere because it's extremely soft and pleasurable to wear and to touch.

That said, I have mostly seen low quality cashmere in stores lately. Upon preview, I see that you are looking at a sale with reportedly high-quality cashmere. What brand/store? The fact that they will replace is a good sign, and longer fibers does indicate higher quality.

I have no had any problems with losing shape if I hand wash and lay flat to dry after reshaping. I don't typically dry clean, but that would even be better. When I have machine washed sweaters, I have not had much luck. That said, I wasn't taking particular care with those specifically because I had bought them from a thrift store and used as bumming around the house to keep warm garments.

I find that something tightly knit and feeling very dense with very small yarn is going to keep a good shape.
posted by Stewriffic at 5:37 AM on January 29, 2018


This sweater is an example of one I bought that is very dense and not pilling in the least.
posted by Stewriffic at 5:40 AM on January 29, 2018


I have a kuhl brand "alfpaca" sweater. The wear areas like elbows and shoulders are poly and the rest is alpaca wool. I've had it for two years and it's held up quite well to wearing it literally every (work) day. I did have to trim pills once, from the arms where they meet my desk. It's not form-fitting but it responds well to machine washing. And it's so so warm and comfy. I looove it.
posted by dbx at 5:44 AM on January 29, 2018


Well, I double checked the kuhl website and their current "alfpaca" lineup has no actual alpaca, so I may be mistaken. My memory is clearly that it's got the real stuff, and there are clearly two different types of fabric in my sweater, but my above comments should probably only get half-weight.
posted by dbx at 5:47 AM on January 29, 2018


alpaca makes for a great hat - thin and warm, fits under a bike helmet.
posted by jb at 5:55 AM on January 29, 2018


high quality cashmere is absolutely wonderful to wear. Cheap cashmere is nice to wear, but doesn't last.

Do not believe anyone who tells you cashmere is machine washable.

Hand wash, lie flat to dry, fold them to store.
posted by JPD at 6:00 AM on January 29, 2018 [3 favorites]


Response by poster: Stewriffic, the brand is Brodie.

(JPD, the website does say machine-washable, too! I'm assuming it would be the hand-wash cycle. Would you say I shouldn't machine-wash even on the handwash cycle, even if I put the item in a pillowcase?
posted by tangerine_poppies at 6:11 AM on January 29, 2018


My thick cashmere sweaters absolutely hold their shape beautifully. I buy all my cashmere at thrift stores, and I far prefer it to any other sweater material. I am very hard on my clothing, and cashmere almost never pills, and just looks beautiful all the time, even if crumpled in a bag for days. And if you are usually cold? Nothing better. And the softness alone cheers me up every morning. Most luxurious, comforting feeling ever.

But I'd make an effort to find good-quality cashmere (personally, the reason I buy them from thrift stores is because this way I can get good-quality ones for a price I can afford.) My thin, lower-quality ones will lose their shape a little and can look a little crumpled. But my super-thick 100% high-quality cashmere? Indestructible.
posted by thegreatfleecircus at 6:21 AM on January 29, 2018 [4 favorites]


Without seeing it myself I obviously can't remark about the quality of a Brodie cashmere, but I did see that there are quite a few reviews on Sierra Trading Post. The main complaint I saw related to quality is just that it's a bit scratchier than a couple people expected.
posted by Stewriffic at 6:23 AM on January 29, 2018


I've bought a number of high quality cashmere sweaters at consignment shops because of affordability. Pure cashmere can attract moths, so I wash mine--cold water delicate--when I bring them home and dry them in the sun. High quality cashmere is fantastically warm, and I've had no trouble with sweaters holding their shape.
posted by Elsie at 6:36 AM on January 29, 2018 [1 favorite]


Honestly, I'd never machine wash it. You'll get more wear out of it hand-washed, and it will look nicer longer. It doesn't take much work to hand wash it -- just soak, press the excess water out in a towel, and lie flat.
posted by fiercecupcake at 6:36 AM on January 29, 2018 [2 favorites]


Complicating this is the fact that "cashmere" isn't always cashmere. Most cashmere goats are raised in central Asia, and the fleeces are bought by Chinese companies for processing. Labeling laws are not always strictly enforced in China, and there are way too many imported garments to test them all. If something is labeled as cashmere, 99% I bet it's labeled "Made in China," and maybe it's cashmere, and maybe it's not.
posted by rikschell at 8:14 AM on January 29, 2018 [4 favorites]


I have cashmere sweaters that are older than me, inherited from my grandmother. They are good as new, though I have worn up some — they get holes on the elbows before they go out of shape, and I'm too lazy to put on patches. So I keep on buying cashmere. (I can't wear wool or alpaca because they are too scratchy for me, and I live in a cold place). Wether you can machine wash it depends a lot on how gentle your gentle cycle is and, as many have written above, on the quality of the garment. I mostly hand wash my sweaters and get my scarves dry-cleaned.
posted by mumimor at 8:23 AM on January 29, 2018


Alpaca has much less resilience than cashmere. The big problem with cashmere is pilling due to the short fibers, not stretching out of shape due to lack of resilience. Of course you can stretch a cashmere sweater out of shape, but that's true of any wool. I wouldn't buy a whole garment of pure alpaca. Cashmere, I would. I've had cashmere sweaters last several seasons until this year's Moth Massacre of my closet.

Cheap cashmere, unsurprisingly, tends to have a shorter lifespan than otherwise. If you're going the Uniqlo-level route and just want something soft, merino will do just as well.

Don't machine-wash cashmere, that's nuts.
posted by praemunire at 9:13 AM on January 29, 2018 [1 favorite]


I have owned a cashmere sweater for literally 20 years and it still looks new. Good cashmere is worth it. But check the label and try to determine the origin. Also if it feels thin, it's not good cashmere.

I hand wash and lay flat to dry. I own lots of cashmere sweaters and when they are legitimately high quality they are amazing. I've never had an issue with their memory.
posted by sockermom at 9:57 AM on January 29, 2018


I'm a big fan of "refreshing" my cashmere with Dryel or similar home dry-cleaning kit rather than washing. It uses a damp cloth with a mild cleaning agent, and a bag that creates steam in the dryer. I don't wash my cashmere much. (We also have a hand-me-down cedar chest, which is great for cashmere and wool storage but not everyone's cup of tea from a cost/aesthetic/space perspective.) I loooooove cashmere and wish I lived somewhere colder so I could wear more of it.
posted by Sweetie Darling at 1:26 PM on January 29, 2018


My two cents, as someone who has both personal style/fashion/shopping and knitting/crochet as hobbies:

1) Alpaca and cashmere are two distinct fibers, with different pros/cons. Alpaca can generally be found at cheaper prices than cashmere, based on fiber prices alone, although it's less common in commercial knitwear. This is because pure alpaca doesn't make great garments: it doesn't have much memory, it pills easily (even if high quality), it gets super heavy when wet and stretches a lot. Cashmere can pill easily if it's inexpensive, but at the high end it performs like a softer, warmer, lighter, only-slightly-less-durable merino wool.

2) Really high-end cashmere knitwear is a totally different beast from regular retail cashmere. But it is expensive (think $300+ for one sweater, with rare sales). It's denser (= warmer), doesn't pill as much because the fibers are longer, and often it can withstand machine washing. Note: JUST because a sweater is priced like high-end cashmere does not mean it is actually of high-end quality, unfortunately. But inexpensive cashmere in the $100 price range is almost guaranteed to not be high-end quality.

For high-end cashmere, look for stuff made by Scottish mills: Johnstons, Todd and Duncan. Retail brands like Brora, Chanel. On the slightly more affordable end, I would trust Boden on cashmere. (Lots of UK names here because IME they take their cashmere seriously.) I've heard good things about Vince cashmere, but no personal experience.

A few brands that are NOT selling high quality cashmere, at least for the current season: J. Crew (although their vintage cashmere is reportedly much better), Uniqlo, Grana, most department store house brands (e.g. Charter Club at Macy's, Halogen at Nordstrom).

But if you can snag a lower-quality cashmere sweater for cheap, like under $100 on sale, it may still be worthwhile if you treat it carefully.

3) I would never machine wash my cashmere, even if the fiber can handle it. I believe that agitation takes years off a garment's lifetime; so if you machine wash a high-end sweater that could have lasted you 10 years with hand washing, maybe it'll still look great for 5 years and that's sufficient for you.

4) Commercial cashmere yarns produced for hand-knitting tend to prioritize softness/handfeel over durability. The exception is mill-end sources like ColourMart, where you can get really high-end cashmere fiber at a merino-level price if you're willing to put up with spinning oils and fine laceweights. This advice is only relevant if you're already a knitter though.

5) Hanging your cashmere (and wool) sweaters, especially when wet, is about as bad as machine washing. Many people claim that dry cleaning is just as bad. To clean: hand wash with a good wool wash (there are some great no-rinse versions like Eucalan or Soak), roll in a bath towel to squeeze out excess water, lay on a flat towel or a mesh drying surface. Once dry, keep them folded for storage. In the summer I store my freshly cleaned woolens in an airtight plastic bin with a lavender sachet; I used to use a cedar-lined closet, but the moths had a feast nonetheless.
posted by serelliya at 1:31 PM on January 29, 2018 [3 favorites]


I have a vintage 100% cashmere sweater that I scored at a clothing swap. I sleep in this thing, machine wash it, and (except for the moth holes*) it still looks good. It's super soft and warm. Vintage all the way.

*The moth holes will look amazing once I do this to them.
posted by the_blizz at 2:21 PM on January 29, 2018


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