Oh lawd lawd lawd
January 25, 2006 8:53 PM   Subscribe

Oh God, my wife is going to drag me from our home in NYC to live in Philly. Where should I live? How will I survive?

The problem is, I'm a freelance journalist, and being in NYC has been hugely helpful. I'm terrified of leaving, frankly, but the wife is pursuing a medical residency and holds all the cards. So, where should I live (we live in the east village now, but wouldn't mind something less 'hip')? What are the neighborhoods like? And what, really, is Philly all about? We were considering Boston for a while, and after visiting the city and talking to some folks there I came away feeling that, unlike NYC, Boston does not have a strong identity -- I mean, it has a historical identity, but nothing like NYC, where you feel like you're *participating* in the city, and connected to everyone else in it. Is Philly like this at all? Or is it just a bunch of folks living near the same bend in the river? And what makes it go? NYC has publishing (among so many other things), Boston has, uh, finance and, uh, I guess the Irish, and MIT/Harvard... What does Philly have, besides cheesesteaks I mean. And does the city have a magazine? (Is it any good?)
posted by Hobbacocka to Travel & Transportation around Philadelphia, PA (23 answers total) 2 users marked this as a favorite
 
We also have soft pretzels.


Anyway, it's a quick train ride back to NYC, I know plenty of people who live in Philly and commute to NYC every day for work, so the world isn't ending there.

http://www.phillymag.com/

(not very good IMO)
posted by furiousxgeorge at 9:31 PM on January 25, 2006


Perhaps Philly's losing its unique big-smalltown feel since New Yorkers have begun to shill it as the sixth borough (and the once legendary Philadelphia Magazine's Best of Philly issue devolved in to a paen to national chains), but it's a still a walkable city of neighborhoods.
I know there's been a number of Philly-praising threads (food, activities, &c), but, thanks to the wonders of folksonomy, I can't find them.
Instead, check out the Weekly and the City Paper, and their archived "Best of" articles, which cover where to live, what to do, and what makes the town great.
posted by ellanea at 10:09 PM on January 25, 2006


Sorry, but honestly, don't go. Commute or something; it's just 90 minutes by car. I'm a native Manhattanite who spent 5 years in Philly in my twenties; I would give a lot now to have spent those valuable years here instead.

Philadelphia makes Boston look cosmopolitan. It's just 80 miles from NYC; anyone with ambition and talent gets out. The crime rate is booming. The police are lazy and historically corrupt. The subway is wretched. The taxicabs are worse - Mumia Abu-Jamal was a cab driver there. People drive like idiots and park on the sidewalks (as compared to NYC, where we drive like assholes and park at hydrants).

The Art Museum is the only piece of beautiful architecture in the city. The Mütter Museum is the best museum in town, and it features deformed babies in jars and a five-foot-long, 40-pound human colon, no doubt full of cheesesteaks.

The newspapers are a little bit worse than mediocre. Philadelphia magazine is a local-ad-driven "Best Plastic Surgeons!" "What Our Drive-Time DJs Are REALLY Like" rag.

The last local Philly band to get big was Boyz II Men.
posted by nicwolff at 10:21 PM on January 25, 2006


Where should I live? How will I survive?
I understand your predicament — I wouldn't want to leave Tara either.
posted by rob511 at 12:26 AM on January 26, 2006


Here's a New York Times article titled Philadelphia Story: The Next Borough you should check out (I think you have to pay for it, sorry). It's about how Philly is becoming a popular destination for NYers to move to, and why. Also, if IIRC, it also talks about popular and up-and-coming neighborhoods.

When I was looking into moving to Philly, the forums at www.phillyblogs.com were incredibly helpful.
posted by amro at 4:00 AM on January 26, 2006


We moved to Philly from NYC nearly 8 years ago for a similar reason -- partner in medical school (and I was working for a magazine at the time). (Also, I did my undergrad degree in Boston, so I hear what you're saying about Boston.) I was sure I was going to hate it, but I have to say, I love living here. The city is bite-sized, it's much less of a hassle to live in town compared to NYC, and it's just basically exceeded all of my expectations.

We live in the Rittenhouse Square area, we've been here all through med school and residency, our two kids were born here -- it's been great. My husband has been able to get the kind of education he wanted, and I've been able to do have my writing career (telecommuted for the magazine for four years, have been freelancing since then, plus having four books published).

For me, there really is a sense of community and involvement here. Just walking down the street to run errands or take the kids to school I run into people I know; we have our corner store and the restaurants that know us; my older kid's Quaker school is all about being involved in the community, so there's that aspect, too.

Now, as my partner starts his fellowship and contemplates where to go next, I'm reluctant to leave, as I love it here.
posted by mothershock at 6:25 AM on January 26, 2006 [1 favorite]


I've been able to do have my writing career

Oh now that's just awesome. How much do I rock?
posted by mothershock at 6:26 AM on January 26, 2006


Good god, please stop directing to the "next borough" article written by our resident gossip columnist.

Philly threads are here and here and here.

nicwolff, heard of The Roots?
posted by desuetude at 6:26 AM on January 26, 2006 [1 favorite]


i lived in philly a couple of years and just moved to nyc. philly is cool (much cooler than boston, which is filled with angry frat boys and terrible bars) but quite small -- once you find your community that's about it. south philly and north philly (fishtown, northern liberties) are the way to go if you want an east villagey feel; bella vista or others around south street are better if you want a greenwich or west village atmosphere. northern liberties is younger and feels more east villagey, but in general keep in mind that philly is SMALL (which has its pros, like walkability, community feeling, etc) so there aren't going to be a million bars, etc. having a shitty subway doesn't matter much for what you'll be doing, i wager, and its a really bikeable city as well.

all in all, philly is great -- and cheap -- but new york (i live in bklyn) is much, much cooler. but definitely don't go to the buttholes of the east coast, boston or DC -- both suck, have piss poor nightlife and terrible culture.
posted by yonation at 7:54 AM on January 26, 2006 [1 favorite]


Your wife sounds like a nice person. When you get down here, I'll gladly fix her up with somebody a little less insufferably snobbish.
Does that answer your question?
posted by sixpack at 8:18 AM on January 26, 2006


sixpack, I think you answered his question best. Cheers.
posted by desuetude at 8:27 AM on January 26, 2006


Some of what you're talking about - a sense of community and of participation in the city - comes from actually living somewhere, not from some magical attribute that only New York could possibly have. When you know the shortcuts in your neighborhood, the hole-in-the-wall delis that make the best sandwiches, the best coffeeshops to sit around reading in, when you go into your favorite record store and the person behind the counter knows you and whatever... you'll feel connected.

If you're trying to learn about the good aspects of the city, I'd take the advice of people who're living there happily over that of people [like several of those in this thread] who mostly seem to want to say "New York is better!!1!!!11" [Some of these people don't know what they're talking about either. Boston's all frat boys, terrible bars, and no culture? Uh, maybe if you ignore everything but Landsdowne Street and the area around B.U., that's an accurate description. Certainly has nothing to do with the Boston I spend time in...] Can your wife talk to other people doing their residency and ask them about their experiences in Philadelphia? Have you spent a little time on Google? [A few very quick searches turn up the alternative weekly mentioned above, for example, which is probably a good place to start learning about neighborhoods, the best cultural stuff, etc.]

If you're willing to drop the New York chauvinism for a bit and actually give other cities a chance, I suspect you'll find yourself happier. If you spend the next several years telling yourself "this is OK, I guess, but it's not as good as New York, because nothing could be," of course you'll be unhappy. You'll feel gratified to have been right, of course, but that sounds like cold comfort for the duration of your wife's residency...
posted by ubersturm at 8:56 AM on January 26, 2006 [1 favorite]


Philly's a very nice city (though since I spent my NYC years living in Brooklyn and Jersey City, for christ's sake, so I reckon my opinion is suspect to such genteel folk as yourself) with a lot going for it. Just give it a chance. And don't miss the cannoli in the italian market area.
(actually, what sixpack said)
posted by willpie at 9:53 AM on January 26, 2006


desuetude, Boyz II Men had five #1 singles and sold 25 million records.
posted by nicwolff at 10:10 AM on January 26, 2006


Most of these post make Philly seem great (even nicwollff).
Every time people talk about Philadelphia, I always think about the Atom & His Package song, which oddly makes me want to go there.

I am always amazed by geographic chauvinism. I've had the misfortune of living in Texas for more than a decade (can't move, wife). Here, everyone will tell you that there is no place else to live. Everywhere else sucks. There is no sense of community and much less diversity in the rest of the world. And (the best part) the rest of the country doesn't have the sense of history "we" have. It's all quite laughable coming from Texans, and tiresome. Same for New Yawkers, especially my grandmother.

Move.
Become part of a community.
Learn the city and try to love it.
And be glad that your SO isn't from there, 'cause you'll always have the chance to leave when she's done.
posted by Seamus at 10:26 AM on January 26, 2006


nicwolff, you just said "to get big." If by this you exclusively mean major mainstream commerical radio success, fine: Pink.
posted by desuetude at 10:31 AM on January 26, 2006


If you have to live in Philly (and I understand your situation - a friend of mine moved from the Upper East Side to New Haven when his wife matched at Yale Med) do as mothershock has and live within a couple of blocks south or west of Rittenhouse Square. Locust, Pine, and Spruce between 17th and 22nd Streets are full of brownstones that would go for $5 million in Greenwich Village but are probably $1.5M there; rental prices scale similarly. It's a pleasant little neighborhood stuck in a crappy city.

Or, live out in one of the satellite towns on the Schuykill like Manayunk or Consohocken, which are a few miles from Center City and a very easy commute to the U. Penn or Graduate Hospitals down 76 or the West River Drive.
posted by nicwolff at 10:35 AM on January 26, 2006


desuetude, you're proving my point.
posted by nicwolff at 10:44 AM on January 26, 2006


nicwolff, I'm mocking your point. Seriously, your advice is to move from NYC to Conshy and to enjoy the easy commute of 76?
posted by desuetude at 1:19 PM on January 26, 2006


desuetude, by quibbling only with that out of all my slanders, you're proving my larger point. Well, I'd recommend living in Manayunk and commuting on the West River Drive. Better than living downtown, anyway...
posted by nicwolff at 1:58 PM on January 26, 2006


Props for Manayunk! See, nicwolff's not all bad after all.
posted by soyjoy at 3:01 PM on January 26, 2006


nicwolff, I agree with some of your slanders. As for the rest, happy to quibble. Shall we slander NYC next?

So, hobbacocka, where's she doing her residency?
posted by desuetude at 5:06 PM on January 26, 2006


I don't even know what to say.
posted by 31d1 at 6:14 PM on January 26, 2006


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