Will my Trek hybrid work well for longer rides?
June 14, 2017 11:14 PM Subscribe
I have a 2005 or 2006 Trek 7.3 FX hybrid bike that I've mostly used for local transportation. I'd like to try a bit more cycling for exercise, though, and I'm looking at 10-12 mile rides or so. I live in San Francisco and this is a route I'd like to try -- the Presidio to downtown Mill Valley.
As a complete newbie to any kind of fitness/distance cycling (and I know this is nothing compared to what lots of people do around here), I'm wondering if my bike is cut out for rides this this (I'm also wondering if I'm cut out for this, but that's a different question). Will I be miserable on a hybrid? Can I make it work for these purposes, or if I want to do rides of this length/challenge should I invest in a road bike? I'd be riding on my own so no worries about needing to keep up with a friend or group.
Things I've researched and am wondering if I should get for my hybrid:
-- handlebar ends to give me more than one hand position
-- better saddle
-- toe straps (my pedals do have clip-ins on one side but I'd rather not buy shoes at this point)
-- any other suggestions or specific recommendations for the above products?
But what I can't really tell from researching is if this these additions would be enough to make the ride not suck/be enjoyable, or if the situation really calls for a road bike. Also wondering, for a person on the not-so-fit end of the spectrum, would it be significantly 'easier' to tackle Bay Area hills on a road bike vs a hybrid, or does your fitness level really make more of the difference?
As a complete newbie to any kind of fitness/distance cycling (and I know this is nothing compared to what lots of people do around here), I'm wondering if my bike is cut out for rides this this (I'm also wondering if I'm cut out for this, but that's a different question). Will I be miserable on a hybrid? Can I make it work for these purposes, or if I want to do rides of this length/challenge should I invest in a road bike? I'd be riding on my own so no worries about needing to keep up with a friend or group.
Things I've researched and am wondering if I should get for my hybrid:
-- handlebar ends to give me more than one hand position
-- better saddle
-- toe straps (my pedals do have clip-ins on one side but I'd rather not buy shoes at this point)
-- any other suggestions or specific recommendations for the above products?
But what I can't really tell from researching is if this these additions would be enough to make the ride not suck/be enjoyable, or if the situation really calls for a road bike. Also wondering, for a person on the not-so-fit end of the spectrum, would it be significantly 'easier' to tackle Bay Area hills on a road bike vs a hybrid, or does your fitness level really make more of the difference?
I regularly do rides of >25 miles on my cheap little hybrid of just slightly younger vintage than yours. I keep thinking I should get a road bike but eh, the hybrid is comfortable and right there at a cost of zero dollars. I have to work a little harder and am some amount slower than I would be with a road bike, which doesn't bother me much...my theory is I am probably losing the same amount of speed by being a little heavier than I'd like, and the hybrid may help me a little more with that! If you haven't gotten a tuneup in a while do that, and then just try the ride out and see how you feel.
posted by charmedimsure at 11:34 PM on June 14, 2017
posted by charmedimsure at 11:34 PM on June 14, 2017
A hybrid will have a lower low gear than a road bike which will let you tackle steeper hills (specifically I'm thinking of the one leading up to the bridge) slower and more easily.
If you're not in great riding shape a hybrid will also bruise your butt less than a road bike.
I mean really the thing to do is just try longer and longer rides, and see how miserable you actually are. My guess is the answer will be "not at all miserable"
posted by aubilenon at 12:17 AM on June 15, 2017 [2 favorites]
If you're not in great riding shape a hybrid will also bruise your butt less than a road bike.
I mean really the thing to do is just try longer and longer rides, and see how miserable you actually are. My guess is the answer will be "not at all miserable"
posted by aubilenon at 12:17 AM on June 15, 2017 [2 favorites]
I think being clipped in makes a huge difference. But I was reluctant to go clipless for a long time. For years I used Power Grips and liked them a lot, much more than clipless cages. They take some getting used to. They're not as easy to use as clipless, but easier, simpler and less fiddly than cages.
posted by bongo_x at 12:45 AM on June 15, 2017
posted by bongo_x at 12:45 AM on June 15, 2017
And I've ridden around cities for 30 years and never got a road bike. I prefer a hybird.
posted by bongo_x at 12:48 AM on June 15, 2017
posted by bongo_x at 12:48 AM on June 15, 2017
My very cheap hybrid has served me week for many 50 mile rides and I also took it on a 450 mile tour of the Netherlands. At the moment your legs and fitness are probably more limiting than your bike! Get out and ride then solve problems as they come up.
Personally I put on semi slick puncture resistant tyres, mudguards and a pannier rack. I also have a comfy saddle but people always tell me they are counterproductive.
Get your bike fitted properly if you can afford it though - my partner had one surgery following using clipped pedals.
posted by kadia_a at 1:24 AM on June 15, 2017 [2 favorites]
Personally I put on semi slick puncture resistant tyres, mudguards and a pannier rack. I also have a comfy saddle but people always tell me they are counterproductive.
Get your bike fitted properly if you can afford it though - my partner had one surgery following using clipped pedals.
posted by kadia_a at 1:24 AM on June 15, 2017 [2 favorites]
It sounds like your bike will be as good or better than the rental bikes in SF, which are fine for this route. The route you've chosen has one big hill to Sausalito, but it's downhill. As others have said, the bike won't limit you on a ride like this, and I think you've chosen a good route.
For any ride of this length, I'd recommend a bike multi tool and spare tube, but another option is to have a friend you could call to pick you up, or take transit or taxi/lyft/uber if you run into mechanical problems.
posted by dttocs at 2:19 AM on June 15, 2017
For any ride of this length, I'd recommend a bike multi tool and spare tube, but another option is to have a friend you could call to pick you up, or take transit or taxi/lyft/uber if you run into mechanical problems.
posted by dttocs at 2:19 AM on June 15, 2017
This guy rode a bikeshare bike way longer distances and had fun.
posted by mahorn at 4:44 AM on June 15, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by mahorn at 4:44 AM on June 15, 2017 [1 favorite]
Your bike is fine for those kinds of rides. And, as you note, people ride longer distances (you see a lot of hybrids on long charity rides) on the same kind of bike, and people ride 10-12 miles on fatbikes, beach cruisers, all kinds of things (I ride my singlespeed mountain bike about that far to get to some of the local trails).
To make your bike work better: start with the free stuff--adjust the saddle and seatpost and stem and handlebars to a comfortable and efficient position (if you don't already have the tools you need to do these things, buy them--a bike shop can help with both the tools and the adjustments). Get a helmet, if you don't already have one. Ditto a lock, and some lights, if you're riding after dark, and a rear blinky light even if you're not.
Then, get some things to carry stuff on your bike--carrying stuff on your bike feels lighter than carrying it on your body. Water bottles and cages, a little bag for your multitool and spare tube (or a bigger bag if you want to carry a rain jacket or a sandwich or whatever), a little doohickey to hold your phone, if you must (at first, resist the temptation to quantify the big-data metrics or whatever--you can do that later, if you want, but don't do it right away).
After that, the usual next step is points of contact--saddle, grips (and/or bar ends, aero bars, etc.), and pedals. I was a toe-clip diehard for years, but I've recently come around to bmx pedals with pedal straps--clipless pedals are totally more efficient, but I like to ride in regular shoes.
Gear recommendations are really personal, bicycling is a big wide world, and it's easy to fall down rabbit holes where you spend more time reading blogs and buying things than you do riding your bike. Don't do that--just get out and ride.
posted by box at 5:31 AM on June 15, 2017 [3 favorites]
To make your bike work better: start with the free stuff--adjust the saddle and seatpost and stem and handlebars to a comfortable and efficient position (if you don't already have the tools you need to do these things, buy them--a bike shop can help with both the tools and the adjustments). Get a helmet, if you don't already have one. Ditto a lock, and some lights, if you're riding after dark, and a rear blinky light even if you're not.
Then, get some things to carry stuff on your bike--carrying stuff on your bike feels lighter than carrying it on your body. Water bottles and cages, a little bag for your multitool and spare tube (or a bigger bag if you want to carry a rain jacket or a sandwich or whatever), a little doohickey to hold your phone, if you must (at first, resist the temptation to quantify the big-data metrics or whatever--you can do that later, if you want, but don't do it right away).
After that, the usual next step is points of contact--saddle, grips (and/or bar ends, aero bars, etc.), and pedals. I was a toe-clip diehard for years, but I've recently come around to bmx pedals with pedal straps--clipless pedals are totally more efficient, but I like to ride in regular shoes.
Gear recommendations are really personal, bicycling is a big wide world, and it's easy to fall down rabbit holes where you spend more time reading blogs and buying things than you do riding your bike. Don't do that--just get out and ride.
posted by box at 5:31 AM on June 15, 2017 [3 favorites]
You're fine. Keep in mind, you're not racing anyone, right?
Just FYI, I regularly ride a bigass 3 speed beach cruiser and a 3 speed semi-recumbent with 20" wheels 10 - 15 miles at a time without an issue. I could ride further if wanted to take more time. And a couple summers ago I rode a single speed cruiser on a 50 mile ride around my city, with elevation changes close to 400 feet. Was it fast? Downhill, yes! (Mid-50-year-old overweight man here, not necessarily in prime athletic shape.) Just allow yourself enough time and go at your own pace.
posted by The Deej at 5:39 AM on June 15, 2017
Just FYI, I regularly ride a bigass 3 speed beach cruiser and a 3 speed semi-recumbent with 20" wheels 10 - 15 miles at a time without an issue. I could ride further if wanted to take more time. And a couple summers ago I rode a single speed cruiser on a 50 mile ride around my city, with elevation changes close to 400 feet. Was it fast? Downhill, yes! (Mid-50-year-old overweight man here, not necessarily in prime athletic shape.) Just allow yourself enough time and go at your own pace.
posted by The Deej at 5:39 AM on June 15, 2017
I have a Trek 7.3fx of similar vintage and I used to use it regularly for trips up to 25 miles or so with the stock bars and seat. Sometimes my hands/wrists would start to go a little numb, but otherwise I was fine.
I would just go for it - 12 miles is probably less than an hour on the bike. Something may start to bother you on the trip, and if it does, you can think about how to fix it for next time.
A hybrid like that is perfectly adequate for 10-12 mile rides; some people even cycle-tour on them.
posted by mskyle at 6:22 AM on June 15, 2017 [1 favorite]
I would just go for it - 12 miles is probably less than an hour on the bike. Something may start to bother you on the trip, and if it does, you can think about how to fix it for next time.
A hybrid like that is perfectly adequate for 10-12 mile rides; some people even cycle-tour on them.
posted by mskyle at 6:22 AM on June 15, 2017 [1 favorite]
My boyfriend did 100 mile rides on a single speed road bike. As he puts it, the improvement from having a fancy bike with lots of gears is negligible compared to the improvement from just riding more and building up his strength and endurance. I am not nearly as hard core as that but regularly rode 10-20 miles on a heavy ass vintage steel 10-speed. Make sure your bike is comfortable of course, but if you're just starting out with longer rides, you're probably better off just getting out there and riding and seeing how it goes than overthinking your bike choice.
posted by yeahlikethat at 6:26 AM on June 15, 2017
posted by yeahlikethat at 6:26 AM on June 15, 2017
When I started riding again as an adult, I used a hybrid bike until I got to 45-50 mile rides. At that point, I felt like it was time to upgrade, and I got a much nicer bike intended for longer -- and faster -- rides.
So ride this hybrid until you figure out if you're going to be a cyclist or not. 10-15 mile rides to start are FINE. You're doing great. But the thing about riding is that, if you do it regularly, you'll get to much longer distances very quickly. I'm part of a group that does a big annual charity ride here in Texas, and every year when we start training there are folks who are rank beginners who are incredibly intimidated that the shortest ride on the training schedule is 30 miles. You know what? They all make it, and some of them are on hybrids.
A road bike probably IS in your future if you stick with this, so I'd be cautious about sinking lots of money into the hybrid, but be aware that saddle fit can make the difference between a sublime ride and a miserable one. You probably aren't hitting any issues here on a 12-mile ride, but by 20 or 25 miles you'll know. If it's a persistent problem, talk to a trusted local bike shop about it. Saddle fit is a thing; it might be the wrong one for your anatomy, or it might just need an adjustment.
I'm a big believer in clipping in, but there's nothing wrong with waiting on that. Toe straps are probably not a great plan; clipless pedals were invented to be safer. You can get a decent pair of shoes that will clip into your pedals for less than $100, but there's also no reason to rush that.
Bar ends might make a difference on longer rides, but they've never really been part of my world.
Your own fitness level will absolutely inform your experience here. But a bike is a super efficient thing, and the more you ride it, the easier it'll be. Don't get discouraged.
Finally, the thing that will make a bike easier or not in challenging terrain like SF is gearing, not necessarily hybrid vs. road. Your hybrid probably has a pretty wide range of gears, and might even have a triple crankset on it (3 choices in front instead of just 2). If/when you shop for an upgraded road bike, you'll want to pay attention to gearing choices to stay within your comfort zone and goals -- some of them will be very aggressive and expect a much stronger rider, and some of them will be more friendly. It all depends on the intended market of the bike (to oversimplify, racers vs. riders). I'd just assume, never having shopped there, that stores in SF stock bikes with wider gearing than stores here in Flatty McFlatFlat Houston, but so much of that is determined by the manufacturers that I could be wrong (my fancy carbon road bike has a tremendous low gear because of its position in the Specialized lineup, for example, and I never, ever use it in town).
Finally Finally (yes), you might look into riding with groups. This will be challenging at first, but also very rewarding because you'll push yourself, and in turn get fitter and stronger faster. And you might make some friends along the way -- I certainly have.
posted by uberchet at 7:05 AM on June 15, 2017
So ride this hybrid until you figure out if you're going to be a cyclist or not. 10-15 mile rides to start are FINE. You're doing great. But the thing about riding is that, if you do it regularly, you'll get to much longer distances very quickly. I'm part of a group that does a big annual charity ride here in Texas, and every year when we start training there are folks who are rank beginners who are incredibly intimidated that the shortest ride on the training schedule is 30 miles. You know what? They all make it, and some of them are on hybrids.
A road bike probably IS in your future if you stick with this, so I'd be cautious about sinking lots of money into the hybrid, but be aware that saddle fit can make the difference between a sublime ride and a miserable one. You probably aren't hitting any issues here on a 12-mile ride, but by 20 or 25 miles you'll know. If it's a persistent problem, talk to a trusted local bike shop about it. Saddle fit is a thing; it might be the wrong one for your anatomy, or it might just need an adjustment.
I'm a big believer in clipping in, but there's nothing wrong with waiting on that. Toe straps are probably not a great plan; clipless pedals were invented to be safer. You can get a decent pair of shoes that will clip into your pedals for less than $100, but there's also no reason to rush that.
Bar ends might make a difference on longer rides, but they've never really been part of my world.
Your own fitness level will absolutely inform your experience here. But a bike is a super efficient thing, and the more you ride it, the easier it'll be. Don't get discouraged.
Finally, the thing that will make a bike easier or not in challenging terrain like SF is gearing, not necessarily hybrid vs. road. Your hybrid probably has a pretty wide range of gears, and might even have a triple crankset on it (3 choices in front instead of just 2). If/when you shop for an upgraded road bike, you'll want to pay attention to gearing choices to stay within your comfort zone and goals -- some of them will be very aggressive and expect a much stronger rider, and some of them will be more friendly. It all depends on the intended market of the bike (to oversimplify, racers vs. riders). I'd just assume, never having shopped there, that stores in SF stock bikes with wider gearing than stores here in Flatty McFlatFlat Houston, but so much of that is determined by the manufacturers that I could be wrong (my fancy carbon road bike has a tremendous low gear because of its position in the Specialized lineup, for example, and I never, ever use it in town).
Finally Finally (yes), you might look into riding with groups. This will be challenging at first, but also very rewarding because you'll push yourself, and in turn get fitter and stronger faster. And you might make some friends along the way -- I certainly have.
posted by uberchet at 7:05 AM on June 15, 2017
If you don't have padded lycra cycle shorts, can I very very very much recommend padded lycra cycle shorts? They will literally save your ass (especially if you've got a small/hard saddle), and they'll stop chafing too, which is a big deal on longer rides in warmer weather. They can be worn under normal shorts and you'll still get the benefit.
posted by parm at 7:30 AM on June 15, 2017 [3 favorites]
posted by parm at 7:30 AM on June 15, 2017 [3 favorites]
The best bike for you is the bike that you want to get on and ride. If/when you get super-keen, you might want another bike. For now, just get on the one you have, and have fun.
posted by rd45 at 8:40 AM on June 15, 2017 [2 favorites]
posted by rd45 at 8:40 AM on June 15, 2017 [2 favorites]
As long as the bike is comfortable for you to ride, you'll do fine. If you get aches or numbness or hotspots in certain spots, joints, tuckus, feet, take care of those first. The best way to do that is to go to a local bike shop and ask them to help fit the bike to you, mentioning any specific concerns.
Other than a place to hang some water on the bike, you'll be fine.
Powergrips are a nice pedal strap upgrade. They fit on most pedals and they don't cost a lot. They're significantly less fiddly than most rigid toe strap arrangements. You can release easily from them just by turning your ankle out from the bike, no hands needed. Other kinds of pedal straps can lock you in until you undo a strap with your hand. I actually find these scarier to ride with than clip-in pedal cleat systems. Ask a few questions before buying.
The only other thing to consider is padded shorts. They do make things a lot easier on hour+ rides (you're looking at 90 minute rides or so, I'd guess). It's totally fine to wear them instead of underwear, under clothes. They need to be worn against your skin to work though: don't wear underwear under bike shorts.
I wouldn't really sweat the gear too much. You can do this in street clothes and on your existing bike with no charges just fine. Just make sure you have enough water and take a pace that means you have fun!
posted by bonehead at 8:58 AM on June 15, 2017
Other than a place to hang some water on the bike, you'll be fine.
Powergrips are a nice pedal strap upgrade. They fit on most pedals and they don't cost a lot. They're significantly less fiddly than most rigid toe strap arrangements. You can release easily from them just by turning your ankle out from the bike, no hands needed. Other kinds of pedal straps can lock you in until you undo a strap with your hand. I actually find these scarier to ride with than clip-in pedal cleat systems. Ask a few questions before buying.
The only other thing to consider is padded shorts. They do make things a lot easier on hour+ rides (you're looking at 90 minute rides or so, I'd guess). It's totally fine to wear them instead of underwear, under clothes. They need to be worn against your skin to work though: don't wear underwear under bike shorts.
I wouldn't really sweat the gear too much. You can do this in street clothes and on your existing bike with no charges just fine. Just make sure you have enough water and take a pace that means you have fun!
posted by bonehead at 8:58 AM on June 15, 2017
Great suggestions here, I forgot about some of the basics. Besides padded shorts, the other must have for me is padded gloves. I assume you have a helmet.
And as always, fit is the most important. Adjust your seat and bars and make sure they fit.
posted by bongo_x at 11:56 AM on June 15, 2017
And as always, fit is the most important. Adjust your seat and bars and make sure they fit.
posted by bongo_x at 11:56 AM on June 15, 2017
Response by poster: Wow, thank you everyone -- awesome advice all around! I'm so appreciative of the help. As with so many things, it sounds like what I need to do is get off my ass and do the thing and stop procrastinating via overthinking.
Power Grips look great! Looks like they have them in stock at the SF REI, too.
Part of the reason I don't want to get the shoes is that I wear a women's size 4 and there doesn't look to be a ton of options for my size -- I see there are some kids mountain bike shoes, but that seems to be about it. Also, was figuring it would be a good idea to invest less in the beginning with some kind of strap, and upgrade if I get more into it. Though these Shimano Click'R pedals sound like they might be a good intro, and they're on clearance at REI!
My butt and wrists do get a bit sore on even the rides I do around town -- I'm sure a big part of that is because of how little I ride my bike, but I'll also look into how I can make it fit better. But I might get gloves now because my hands/wrists ache anyway from computer and phone use.
posted by imalaowai at 2:04 PM on June 15, 2017
Power Grips look great! Looks like they have them in stock at the SF REI, too.
Part of the reason I don't want to get the shoes is that I wear a women's size 4 and there doesn't look to be a ton of options for my size -- I see there are some kids mountain bike shoes, but that seems to be about it. Also, was figuring it would be a good idea to invest less in the beginning with some kind of strap, and upgrade if I get more into it. Though these Shimano Click'R pedals sound like they might be a good intro, and they're on clearance at REI!
My butt and wrists do get a bit sore on even the rides I do around town -- I'm sure a big part of that is because of how little I ride my bike, but I'll also look into how I can make it fit better. But I might get gloves now because my hands/wrists ache anyway from computer and phone use.
posted by imalaowai at 2:04 PM on June 15, 2017
Also take into account what exactly you're doing. Bike shoes are great for biking, they are terrible for walking.
posted by bongo_x at 2:11 PM on June 15, 2017
posted by bongo_x at 2:11 PM on June 15, 2017
FYI, while it's definitely true that road cycling shoes can be uncomfortable or even dangerous for walking, this isn't really true for mountain biking cleat systems.
The type of pedal that OP mentions above uses SPD, which is a system with roots in the mountain biking world. It's also super popular with more casual or commuter cyclists precisely SPD-compatible shoes can be super walkable and comfortable.
I use SPDs on my "townie" bike and on my mountain bike. My mountain bike shoes are totally fine to walk in. I've done rides and then hung out at the finish for hours, walking all over the place, with no trouble at all. They're like clunky sneakers with a slightly stiffer than normal footbed.
Obviously you can GET mountain bike shoes that are super stiff and hard to walk in, but most of them aren't that way -- I suspect because getting off and walking on MTB trails is pretty common (i.e., because something's washed out, or that particular rise is just too hard for you, or whatever).
Anyway, you often see folks use SPD as their first clip-in system for this reason, and some riders never bother moving off of it b/c it's so convenient, and it's the only system you can really use on all your bikes, etc.
posted by uberchet at 3:21 PM on June 15, 2017
The type of pedal that OP mentions above uses SPD, which is a system with roots in the mountain biking world. It's also super popular with more casual or commuter cyclists precisely SPD-compatible shoes can be super walkable and comfortable.
I use SPDs on my "townie" bike and on my mountain bike. My mountain bike shoes are totally fine to walk in. I've done rides and then hung out at the finish for hours, walking all over the place, with no trouble at all. They're like clunky sneakers with a slightly stiffer than normal footbed.
Obviously you can GET mountain bike shoes that are super stiff and hard to walk in, but most of them aren't that way -- I suspect because getting off and walking on MTB trails is pretty common (i.e., because something's washed out, or that particular rise is just too hard for you, or whatever).
Anyway, you often see folks use SPD as their first clip-in system for this reason, and some riders never bother moving off of it b/c it's so convenient, and it's the only system you can really use on all your bikes, etc.
posted by uberchet at 3:21 PM on June 15, 2017
I didn't mean the were impossible, but I think "super walkable" is a bit of a stretch. They're fine for stopping and going into the coffee shop, but I wouldn't want to walk around town for any length in them. They're generally easier to walk in off road than on sidewalks and concrete floors.
posted by bongo_x at 5:32 PM on June 15, 2017
posted by bongo_x at 5:32 PM on June 15, 2017
When I toured a lot, I toured in SPDs. They're way more casual shoe friendly than any other option. Heck there are even SPD-compatible sandals. SPD can have stiffness problems if you're putting a lot of force on the pedal, but for casual riders and tourists that concern is way down the list. The "urban" and "mountain" SPD shoes (and sandals!) are generally quite comfortable, IME.
posted by bonehead at 6:26 PM on June 15, 2017
posted by bonehead at 6:26 PM on June 15, 2017
Additional note about riding any new route: I like to view the whole route via Google Street View before biking it. It can make you aware of tricky areas or hazards that you may not be aware of, even if you've been on that route numerous times in a car.
posted by The Deej at 5:56 AM on June 16, 2017
posted by The Deej at 5:56 AM on June 16, 2017
I didn't mean the were impossible, but I think "super walkable" is a bit of a stretch.bongo, I'm sorry, but you're off base here. I think you must be thinking about road shoes, and might not realize the material design differences present with the type of cleat and pedal system we're talking about here.
Yes, pretty much ALL shoes and cleat systems designed for road riding are terrible for walking. The two big reasons are the super-stiff soles and the fact that road cleats stick out from the bottom of the shoe, which forces the "duck walk" gait you see from riders in coffeeshops.
SPD is very different. The cleat is much, much smaller, and is typically recessed into the bottom of the shoe -- at the least, it's got a lower profile than the tread on the shoe. This means the bottom of the shoe is just fine for walking; the only other variable is the sole stiffness, and for lots of reasons most mountain shoes are much less stiff than the shoes you use on the road.
This combination of factors means there's a wide, wide range of shoes available for SPDs, including many specifically designed for all day wear (e.g., for bike commuters who don't want to change shoes). You wouldn't do a race in these shoes, but they're awesome for OP's purposes.
The shoes I have are explicitly designed to support hiking as well as riding (nice chunky tread, which comes in handy!). I know several people who commute in SPD shoes from Chrome and wear them all day. It's totally a thing.
posted by uberchet at 6:31 AM on June 16, 2017
This thread is closed to new comments.
A better saddle (the one that is better for you, not just more expensive) is always a good idea. I would fuss with stem and bar lengths and position themselves before I'd get bar ends. Don't worry about toe straps. Do you have good padded gloves?
Also, make sure you have enough air in the tires.
posted by Dashy at 11:22 PM on June 14, 2017 [1 favorite]