Hello, I'd like a new bike and I'm cheap.
May 4, 2017 8:29 AM Subscribe
My son (almost 10) just got his first multispeed bike, and my bike is ancient and on its last legs, er, wheels. It would take on the order of $300ish to fix up according to the local bike shop. For that price -- or even less -- I should be able to get something good enough to ride around town with the kids and sometimes bike the few miles in to work, right? Right?
This will be a fairly basic transportation bike for an area that has some hills but nothing major, and some busy streets but nothing major. I don't need it to be light enough to pick up with two fingers, or extremely aerodynamic and fast. I'm assuming hybrid or maybe mountain bike for versatility; you can do streets on those but you can't do some bike paths / trails on a road bike very easily.
So. Are Costco / Target level bikes reliable enough for this sort of thing, or should I go to a dedicated bike shop? No-name bike or very-basic-model Trek etc? Are used bike stores worth looking into, or is the discount not worth all the extra added variables? What should I expect to spend for a bike that'll last at least ten years if it isn't ridden too hard and is taken good care of?
What's the least expensive relatively easy way I can get a bike that'll meet my needs and that I'll enjoy riding?
This will be a fairly basic transportation bike for an area that has some hills but nothing major, and some busy streets but nothing major. I don't need it to be light enough to pick up with two fingers, or extremely aerodynamic and fast. I'm assuming hybrid or maybe mountain bike for versatility; you can do streets on those but you can't do some bike paths / trails on a road bike very easily.
So. Are Costco / Target level bikes reliable enough for this sort of thing, or should I go to a dedicated bike shop? No-name bike or very-basic-model Trek etc? Are used bike stores worth looking into, or is the discount not worth all the extra added variables? What should I expect to spend for a bike that'll last at least ten years if it isn't ridden too hard and is taken good care of?
What's the least expensive relatively easy way I can get a bike that'll meet my needs and that I'll enjoy riding?
I paid about $800 for a Trek FX4 on sale. That's about the lowest-level bike I'd want to commute on -- my previous bike was a Target level Schwin and wow can I tell the difference. For me the biggest upgrades were narrow road tires vs. wider (I'd already put slicks on the old bike, but they were Mountain-bike width) and separate, higher quality shifters and brake cluster. That said, a lower end bike won't necessarily be THAT big a downgrade -- I went for the 4 vs the 5 mainly for the upgrades I listed, because those things really annoyed me about my old bike, in the context of everyday commuting.
posted by Alterscape at 8:41 AM on May 4, 2017
posted by Alterscape at 8:41 AM on May 4, 2017
Big box bikes will last you a summer. Bike stores will generally charge you $500+. Used bikes might be worth it, but it's hit or miss.
But if you're willing to spend 20-30 minutes for final assembly, you can get a very decent bike for under $200 by mail order. Nashbar is a good place to start; here's one for $190. Or a similar one from Performance. Call one of those stores and tell them what you're looking for; they'll help you.
posted by Mr.Know-it-some at 8:42 AM on May 4, 2017 [6 favorites]
But if you're willing to spend 20-30 minutes for final assembly, you can get a very decent bike for under $200 by mail order. Nashbar is a good place to start; here's one for $190. Or a similar one from Performance. Call one of those stores and tell them what you're looking for; they'll help you.
posted by Mr.Know-it-some at 8:42 AM on May 4, 2017 [6 favorites]
At that price point, I'm sure you can get a very nice bike, but I would not go to a big box store. That way lies heavy cheap steel bikes that are often assembled by teenage monkeys. I've often seen bikes with brakes on the wrong way around, even handlebars on backwards.
You may have some luck at a local shop, but you're in the bottom of their starting price ranges.
My suggestion is to look for used bike stores in town. There are two or three in my city that take in older bikes, fix them up and sell them with a warantee. Bikes don't really wear much, certainly not as fast as a car. A ten or even twenty-year-old bike will be entirely functional and safe, and give you good value for money. These shops also tend to provide a more personal experience than a big box store, and quite a few more kinds of bikes to try in all shapes and sizes.
And trying lots of bikes until you find one that's just! right! is what you want to do. Note that a good store will even offer to swap seats and even handlebars for you to get a bike to fit well. A new shop or one specialized in used should be able to do that.
posted by bonehead at 8:51 AM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
You may have some luck at a local shop, but you're in the bottom of their starting price ranges.
My suggestion is to look for used bike stores in town. There are two or three in my city that take in older bikes, fix them up and sell them with a warantee. Bikes don't really wear much, certainly not as fast as a car. A ten or even twenty-year-old bike will be entirely functional and safe, and give you good value for money. These shops also tend to provide a more personal experience than a big box store, and quite a few more kinds of bikes to try in all shapes and sizes.
And trying lots of bikes until you find one that's just! right! is what you want to do. Note that a good store will even offer to swap seats and even handlebars for you to get a bike to fit well. A new shop or one specialized in used should be able to do that.
posted by bonehead at 8:51 AM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
Don't do what I do - buy cheaper used bikes off craigslist and then spend hours fixing them up for my family's use. This takes a lot of practice and the gradual accumulation of expensive-ish tools, so I don't recommend this.
You could go halfway, though, buy a used one and then get it tuned up, as long as the frame isn't dented or cracked, and the handles turn smoothly, and the rims aren't warped or dented. Also what know it some said - I did a cheap Nashbar single speed (foot brake) for a few years, though I was taking the rear hub apart every few weeks to re-tighten it. Don't get the coaster brake hub.
posted by turkeybrain at 8:53 AM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
You could go halfway, though, buy a used one and then get it tuned up, as long as the frame isn't dented or cracked, and the handles turn smoothly, and the rims aren't warped or dented. Also what know it some said - I did a cheap Nashbar single speed (foot brake) for a few years, though I was taking the rear hub apart every few weeks to re-tighten it. Don't get the coaster brake hub.
posted by turkeybrain at 8:53 AM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
This varies by location, but where I currently live, pawn shops are the used bike clearinghouse of choice. Our local Craigslist isn't robust enough to move them quickly and pawn shops pay cash on the nail if you don't want to faff around with storing it while you sell it.
If your local pawn economy is more shady and exploitative than "used stuff flea market," your mileage will vary. But the reputable pawn shops near me always have a great selection of adult bikes and a lot of people go sell kids' outgrown bikes and buy bigger ones there every year. (Also a prime location for used home exercise equipment.)
posted by Eyebrows McGee at 9:00 AM on May 4, 2017 [2 favorites]
If your local pawn economy is more shady and exploitative than "used stuff flea market," your mileage will vary. But the reputable pawn shops near me always have a great selection of adult bikes and a lot of people go sell kids' outgrown bikes and buy bigger ones there every year. (Also a prime location for used home exercise equipment.)
posted by Eyebrows McGee at 9:00 AM on May 4, 2017 [2 favorites]
I've bought two track bikes in your price range from bikesdirect over the last eight years. They were significantly better quality than what you'll get at Target or Costco for the price, although you'll get significantly better shifters in the $400-500s range.
Both bikes have decent-quality aluminum frames made in Taiwan, with cheap but serviceable components (you're basically paying for the frame).
They arrive mostly assembled.
posted by aspersioncast at 9:04 AM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
Both bikes have decent-quality aluminum frames made in Taiwan, with cheap but serviceable components (you're basically paying for the frame).
They arrive mostly assembled.
posted by aspersioncast at 9:04 AM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
(should add that DC is high-demand/low supply for used bikes these days; I imagine the used market in Madison is better)
posted by aspersioncast at 9:10 AM on May 4, 2017
posted by aspersioncast at 9:10 AM on May 4, 2017
This will be a fairly basic transportation bike ... What's the least expensive relatively easy way I can get a bike that'll meet my needs and that I'll enjoy riding?
I still think the tune-up is an option. You're not going to get a decent new bike for $300. You'd still have to buy lights lock etc. on top of that as well.
If your current bike fits you, and is comfortable to ride, I'd get it fixed up. You don't need anything special, it's all about the bottom line here. Also it's less likely to get stolen.
posted by carter at 9:40 AM on May 4, 2017 [4 favorites]
I still think the tune-up is an option. You're not going to get a decent new bike for $300. You'd still have to buy lights lock etc. on top of that as well.
If your current bike fits you, and is comfortable to ride, I'd get it fixed up. You don't need anything special, it's all about the bottom line here. Also it's less likely to get stolen.
posted by carter at 9:40 AM on May 4, 2017 [4 favorites]
Back in the 1980s, I bought a Ross Eurotour. It would probably do for you, but I'm not recommending it. Based on my experience, I think you should try to sharpen your eyes to what you get when you spend a little more, or what you lose if you spend a little less. For example, on my bike, the big gear where the pedals are attached is made of a couple pieces of stamped steel riveted together. I never had any trouble with it, but clearly that's not as good as the forged parts you find on better bikes.
Similarly Shimano sounds like a good name for brakes and shifters, but they make a range of stuff from serviceable on up.
The Eurotour has 70 PSI tires which are a pain to inflate (because that little PFFT when you unhook the pump hose is enough air to reduce the pressure significantly) and keep inflated. Also, they are quite narrow which left me in mortal fear of running over a storm drain.
posted by SemiSalt at 10:00 AM on May 4, 2017
Similarly Shimano sounds like a good name for brakes and shifters, but they make a range of stuff from serviceable on up.
The Eurotour has 70 PSI tires which are a pain to inflate (because that little PFFT when you unhook the pump hose is enough air to reduce the pressure significantly) and keep inflated. Also, they are quite narrow which left me in mortal fear of running over a storm drain.
posted by SemiSalt at 10:00 AM on May 4, 2017
Yeah, I wouldn't necessarily discount getting your current bike tuned up if it's a good bike otherwise (and you like it). My Trek 7.3fx is maybe 8 years old and over the years I've spent much more than the purchase price of the bike on tuneups, new tires, new chains, cassettes, brake pads/cables/brake assemblies, etc.
If it's originally a cheap department store bike, or you just don't like it, you're better off getting something new(er).
posted by mskyle at 10:01 AM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
If it's originally a cheap department store bike, or you just don't like it, you're better off getting something new(er).
posted by mskyle at 10:01 AM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
Yes, that's a good point: what's the quality of your current bike? If it's good quality, then it will still last longer. You may 'save' on a $300 new bike but tbh the components will often be budget and then you are back to the maintenance issue in a short space of time.
But as mskyle points out, if your current bike is cheap anyway, maybe you should upgrade.
posted by carter at 10:06 AM on May 4, 2017
But as mskyle points out, if your current bike is cheap anyway, maybe you should upgrade.
posted by carter at 10:06 AM on May 4, 2017
If your current bike is one of those old big box store bikes, then get a new one from Craigslist, and maybe even check the UW Madison student buy/sell boards to see if someone is letting a bike go for really discounted prices (I just joined the UNC Chapel Hill one and saw someone desperate to off load their Surly Cross Check for $700, and it's worth at least $1,200 because of all the extra customization that was on it!).
As for the type of bike, I'd look into light touring bikes or randonneuring type bikes. I'm on an early 80s Miyata 610 right now and take it on paved places and more gravelly trails (not complete wilderness mountain bike stuff though). It's been wonderful, and it's hopefully going to be my forever bike.
Take it to a bike shop for a complete tune up. I bought mine for $200 off Craigslist, and the complete tune up was around $125. Since then, it's just been about $100 a year for a tune up.
posted by astapasta24 at 10:29 AM on May 4, 2017
As for the type of bike, I'd look into light touring bikes or randonneuring type bikes. I'm on an early 80s Miyata 610 right now and take it on paved places and more gravelly trails (not complete wilderness mountain bike stuff though). It's been wonderful, and it's hopefully going to be my forever bike.
Take it to a bike shop for a complete tune up. I bought mine for $200 off Craigslist, and the complete tune up was around $125. Since then, it's just been about $100 a year for a tune up.
posted by astapasta24 at 10:29 AM on May 4, 2017
If you're near a university, you might check out their surplus store. At a local university near me, they round up 100's of bikes each spring after the students leave and they are sold at great prices. You'd most likely still need a tune up, but could get a great find a a low price.
posted by jennstra at 10:48 AM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by jennstra at 10:48 AM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
My current road bike would, when new, have cost many thousands of dollars. Before I decided to go that route, I bought a touring bike at a garage sale for, I kid you not, $20. Casting flash still on the tires from 20 years before. Guy had bought it to ride with his then girlfriend, they'd broken up, now his wife was happy to get it off the garage wall.
I put probably a hundred bucks into it, rode it for well over a thousand miles, before I decided to move up to my current carbon fiber aluminum wonder bike.
The thing is that to make a cheap bike a pleasure to ride, you have to have a bit of a mechanical bent and be willing to do a bit of tinkering. If I were in your place, I'd find someone in my circles who could help me learn how to do a bit of wrenching, and hit some neighborhood garage sales. In my area it's totally possible to pick up a Trek or similar mid-range hybrid or commuter bike with minimal miles on it for $40-$60 at a garage sale (I'm wary of both Craigslist and used bike stores because of the fencing stolen bikes problem). Spend some time with a good Teflon lube and a set of Allen wrenches to make sure the brakes and derailleurs are aligned and that bike will rock you for a thousand miles no problem.
And n-thing the "don't buy a department store bike". That way lies sorrow.
posted by straw at 10:57 AM on May 4, 2017
I put probably a hundred bucks into it, rode it for well over a thousand miles, before I decided to move up to my current carbon fiber aluminum wonder bike.
The thing is that to make a cheap bike a pleasure to ride, you have to have a bit of a mechanical bent and be willing to do a bit of tinkering. If I were in your place, I'd find someone in my circles who could help me learn how to do a bit of wrenching, and hit some neighborhood garage sales. In my area it's totally possible to pick up a Trek or similar mid-range hybrid or commuter bike with minimal miles on it for $40-$60 at a garage sale (I'm wary of both Craigslist and used bike stores because of the fencing stolen bikes problem). Spend some time with a good Teflon lube and a set of Allen wrenches to make sure the brakes and derailleurs are aligned and that bike will rock you for a thousand miles no problem.
And n-thing the "don't buy a department store bike". That way lies sorrow.
posted by straw at 10:57 AM on May 4, 2017
I LOVE my Costco bike. Prior to having it my 1K bike got stolen. It was light and great. I was single and kid free when I bought it and needed a cheap replacement since circumstances had changed. I looked in bike shops and was very sad at the big clunky bikes for 500 bucks.
Thrilled to great little bike for about $250.
I've been using it a few years very happily.
posted by ReluctantViking at 11:12 AM on May 4, 2017
Thrilled to great little bike for about $250.
I've been using it a few years very happily.
posted by ReluctantViking at 11:12 AM on May 4, 2017
Bikes are confusing for people for some reason. It's not a TV, or even a car, where when things go wrong you need a new one. They are collections of parts. Many people buy even expensive bikes and then replace and upgrade parts. I've replaced parts until there was nothing original left but the frame.
The quality of the bike you have now is key to this question, it's impossible to answer otherwise.
When I say that it's firstly the quality of the frame, and just as much, how does it fit?
Fit is hugely important and nearly completely overlooked by casual riders. A better fitting cheaper bike is better than a poor fitting more expensive bike.
The other part is the quality of the collection of parts on it, which can be hard to judge if you don't know much about it.
What did the shop recommend? What is it they want to fix? What about other shops? It seems odd to me that a shop would recommend that much work if it wasn't a decent bike, but who knows?
For some perspective, let's say you had a suit that needs $100 worth of alterations to look great. You could say "I can buy a new suit for $100!". Yes, you could. But if that was a $1000 suit it would be dumb to throw it out and replace it with a cheap one. If it was a $100 suit to begin with then you're back at square on anyway.
posted by bongo_x at 11:37 AM on May 4, 2017 [2 favorites]
The quality of the bike you have now is key to this question, it's impossible to answer otherwise.
When I say that it's firstly the quality of the frame, and just as much, how does it fit?
Fit is hugely important and nearly completely overlooked by casual riders. A better fitting cheaper bike is better than a poor fitting more expensive bike.
The other part is the quality of the collection of parts on it, which can be hard to judge if you don't know much about it.
What did the shop recommend? What is it they want to fix? What about other shops? It seems odd to me that a shop would recommend that much work if it wasn't a decent bike, but who knows?
For some perspective, let's say you had a suit that needs $100 worth of alterations to look great. You could say "I can buy a new suit for $100!". Yes, you could. But if that was a $1000 suit it would be dumb to throw it out and replace it with a cheap one. If it was a $100 suit to begin with then you're back at square on anyway.
posted by bongo_x at 11:37 AM on May 4, 2017 [2 favorites]
Soon, good, or inexpensive. Pick two.
Soon and good, but out of your budget? Bike shop.
Soon and inexpensive, but probably won't last past a single tune-up? Department store.
Good and inexpensive, but you'll have to trawl Craigslist, possibly for a while, and maybe visit a few prospects? Used bike, and maybe a less-expensive tune-up.
posted by supercres at 11:46 AM on May 4, 2017
Soon and good, but out of your budget? Bike shop.
Soon and inexpensive, but probably won't last past a single tune-up? Department store.
Good and inexpensive, but you'll have to trawl Craigslist, possibly for a while, and maybe visit a few prospects? Used bike, and maybe a less-expensive tune-up.
posted by supercres at 11:46 AM on May 4, 2017
Oh, and I really think department store bikes are one of the worst bang for buck deals out there. They just aren't good enough, but they are priced at what people are willing to spend. They're sort of the $35 suit. It's just a waste of time and money. I would buy a used bike for sure over one of those.
posted by bongo_x at 11:54 AM on May 4, 2017 [2 favorites]
posted by bongo_x at 11:54 AM on May 4, 2017 [2 favorites]
ReluctantViking's experience with a department store bike is VERY atypical.
New hybrid bikes -- road gearing, but flat bars and upright geometry, which is what you want for commuting -- will run $300-500 new at a bike shop. Anecdotally, you may find lower prices with smaller brands (KHS, Giant) than you would with the more dominant players (Specialized, Trek), but sales and specials can be a great equalizer.
Depending on the age and original quality level of your old bike, it might well be that your best path forward is to overhaul IT and not buy new. This is a little bit of a long shot, but it's not out of the question. OTOH, if you could spend $400, a new bike is well within your reach, and will be much nicer than your old bike.
posted by uberchet at 11:56 AM on May 4, 2017 [2 favorites]
New hybrid bikes -- road gearing, but flat bars and upright geometry, which is what you want for commuting -- will run $300-500 new at a bike shop. Anecdotally, you may find lower prices with smaller brands (KHS, Giant) than you would with the more dominant players (Specialized, Trek), but sales and specials can be a great equalizer.
Depending on the age and original quality level of your old bike, it might well be that your best path forward is to overhaul IT and not buy new. This is a little bit of a long shot, but it's not out of the question. OTOH, if you could spend $400, a new bike is well within your reach, and will be much nicer than your old bike.
posted by uberchet at 11:56 AM on May 4, 2017 [2 favorites]
Actually I missed this part of your question: It would take on the order of $300ish to fix up according to the local bike shop
It's hard to tell whether you're starting with a decent bike and they're proposing a comprehensive tuneup, a crap bike and they're completely replacing a bunch of cheap parts, or they're fleecing you.
If the first is the case I'm on the same page as several others above; get the old bike fixed. If you're even remotely handy a lot of aftermarket stuff is easy to do by hand: changing brake pads, tires/tubes, and even a front wheel are all pretty trivial with WD-40, a tube of lube, a couple allen wrenches and a crescent wrench.
Either way, get a breakdown of what exactly they're proposing to do and get a quote from another shop.
posted by aspersioncast at 12:40 PM on May 4, 2017
It's hard to tell whether you're starting with a decent bike and they're proposing a comprehensive tuneup, a crap bike and they're completely replacing a bunch of cheap parts, or they're fleecing you.
If the first is the case I'm on the same page as several others above; get the old bike fixed. If you're even remotely handy a lot of aftermarket stuff is easy to do by hand: changing brake pads, tires/tubes, and even a front wheel are all pretty trivial with WD-40, a tube of lube, a couple allen wrenches and a crescent wrench.
Either way, get a breakdown of what exactly they're proposing to do and get a quote from another shop.
posted by aspersioncast at 12:40 PM on May 4, 2017
It would take on the order of $300ish to fix up according to the local bike shop
I overlooked the significance of this too - so that's like a new headset and a new gear cassette chainring and new cables and new tires and maybe a couple of spokes too. So, sesquipedalia, you need to seriously love the frame to proceed with that. Does your heart sing when you grasp a tube, down or top?
posted by turkeybrain at 12:46 PM on May 4, 2017
I overlooked the significance of this too - so that's like a new headset and a new gear cassette chainring and new cables and new tires and maybe a couple of spokes too. So, sesquipedalia, you need to seriously love the frame to proceed with that. Does your heart sing when you grasp a tube, down or top?
posted by turkeybrain at 12:46 PM on May 4, 2017
Response by poster: Old bike is a Bianchi Strada hybrid, handed down. It can't be more recent than 1998, and to judge from BikePedia it's probably the 1995 "plum" color model.
Gear shifting is not reliable or nonworking, and attempted gear changes have on two occasions bent the piece where the derailleur connects such that the derailleur got caught in the spokes of the rear wheel. The frame where the derailleur attaches was restraightened both times but it is probably weaker than it was. The chain's path is not quite "true", but as long as I don't change gears it doesn't scrape too hard against anything. And the brakes squeal to the extent that I don't need a horn.
I don't have the full write up on hand but it definitely does seem like it needs a new derailleur and crankcase? (That's the set of rear gears?). Brakes too. The bike mechanic quoted $300-something, made note of the weakened metal where the derailleur connects, and then mentioned that it might be more cost-effective to look into a new or used bike for just a bit more. Wasn't sure whether it was a true assessment of the value of the bike or an attempt to upsell to the sales department of the shop. Or both.
If it is the 1995 model, BikePedia says that it was priced a bit under $300 when new, in 1995 dollars of course.
posted by sesquipedalia at 12:59 PM on May 4, 2017
Gear shifting is not reliable or nonworking, and attempted gear changes have on two occasions bent the piece where the derailleur connects such that the derailleur got caught in the spokes of the rear wheel. The frame where the derailleur attaches was restraightened both times but it is probably weaker than it was. The chain's path is not quite "true", but as long as I don't change gears it doesn't scrape too hard against anything. And the brakes squeal to the extent that I don't need a horn.
I don't have the full write up on hand but it definitely does seem like it needs a new derailleur and crankcase? (That's the set of rear gears?). Brakes too. The bike mechanic quoted $300-something, made note of the weakened metal where the derailleur connects, and then mentioned that it might be more cost-effective to look into a new or used bike for just a bit more. Wasn't sure whether it was a true assessment of the value of the bike or an attempt to upsell to the sales department of the shop. Or both.
If it is the 1995 model, BikePedia says that it was priced a bit under $300 when new, in 1995 dollars of course.
posted by sesquipedalia at 12:59 PM on May 4, 2017
If the derailleur cage (google for images ...) has been bent and straightened, you need a new derailleur. It's a component.
If the rear dropouts (google for images ...) have been bent and straightened, you probably need a new bike. They are critical for bike strength and safety. Can you get a 2nd opinion?
posted by carter at 1:22 PM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
If the rear dropouts (google for images ...) have been bent and straightened, you probably need a new bike. They are critical for bike strength and safety. Can you get a 2nd opinion?
posted by carter at 1:22 PM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
IMO those were cool frames, but I'd probably always worry about the weakened derailleur fitting.
If it were me, I'd probably just convert it to a single-speed and change out the brake pads; might even be a fun project to do with the kid. Single hubs and spacers are cheap, you probably already have any of the tools you need other than the chain tool and the proper cassette tool. End up costing you something like $100 and an afternoon.
posted by aspersioncast at 1:24 PM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
If it were me, I'd probably just convert it to a single-speed and change out the brake pads; might even be a fun project to do with the kid. Single hubs and spacers are cheap, you probably already have any of the tools you need other than the chain tool and the proper cassette tool. End up costing you something like $100 and an afternoon.
posted by aspersioncast at 1:24 PM on May 4, 2017 [1 favorite]
Patron: "I just bought this bike from Target but the steering feels off. Is something adjusted wrong?"
Me: "They installed your handlebars with the fork turned around backwards."
That sort of thing is not unusual, it just happens to be one of the most dramatic instances I've encountered. Also, as noted above, the components on department store bikes are normally a nuisance to maintain/adjust because they're built to last a month or a year, not decades.
I would strongly recommend finding a used bike if you're sticking to the sub-$300 range - try a shop that specializes in refurbished used bikes or a higher-end rental shop selling off their old fleet to reduce the risk of unknowingly getting a lemon on craigslist.
I also recommend bike collectives. I've volunteered at a couple and visited several more and they're generally great resources for all things pedal-powered. Based on your profile, your local collective is Freewheel. They don't appear to sell bikes, but might be able to help you overhaul your current one if you want to go the DIY route.
It looks like the Milwaukee Bicycle Collective does sell used bikes, though, and their selection looks pretty good! Not sure how far you're willing to go to get a bike, though...
It sounds like, with the exception of the bent and re-bent derailer hanger, overhauling your existing bike would be an excellent option. With the derailer hanger issue, though, it's a little iffy. Decent bikes in the $300-or-less range will be used. If you go up to $400, you might find some acceptable offerings from various brands, but I haven't been in new bike retail recently enough to know what they are.
Whatever you choose, best of luck and happy riding!
posted by sibilatorix at 5:01 PM on May 4, 2017 [2 favorites]
Me: "They installed your handlebars with the fork turned around backwards."
That sort of thing is not unusual, it just happens to be one of the most dramatic instances I've encountered. Also, as noted above, the components on department store bikes are normally a nuisance to maintain/adjust because they're built to last a month or a year, not decades.
I would strongly recommend finding a used bike if you're sticking to the sub-$300 range - try a shop that specializes in refurbished used bikes or a higher-end rental shop selling off their old fleet to reduce the risk of unknowingly getting a lemon on craigslist.
I also recommend bike collectives. I've volunteered at a couple and visited several more and they're generally great resources for all things pedal-powered. Based on your profile, your local collective is Freewheel. They don't appear to sell bikes, but might be able to help you overhaul your current one if you want to go the DIY route.
It looks like the Milwaukee Bicycle Collective does sell used bikes, though, and their selection looks pretty good! Not sure how far you're willing to go to get a bike, though...
It sounds like, with the exception of the bent and re-bent derailer hanger, overhauling your existing bike would be an excellent option. With the derailer hanger issue, though, it's a little iffy. Decent bikes in the $300-or-less range will be used. If you go up to $400, you might find some acceptable offerings from various brands, but I haven't been in new bike retail recently enough to know what they are.
Whatever you choose, best of luck and happy riding!
posted by sibilatorix at 5:01 PM on May 4, 2017 [2 favorites]
I'm pretty into keeping old bikes, but I don't know that I'd put a lot of money into that. It's sort of a borderline case. It could be fun if you want to do your own work and scrounge parts. I wouldn't pay someone a lot to do it.
Get a decent bike. The deal is you want the frame and the guts to be good quality, everything else is replaceable. The parts that are important are the non sexy parts. A good frame, headset, drivetrain, wheels, etc. High end bikes often come with shitty pedals and even saddles since they assume you're going to toss them and pick your own anyway. Don't worry about that stuff. Tires are consumables.
I'd get the simplest bike that works for you, fully rigid, no frills. The more frills there are just means they skimped on everything else to hit that price point. There's a sweet spot where you're getting something decent and more than that may just be more than you care about. You get what you pay for, but after a certain point it is diminishing returns. I always tell people to never buy an expensive bike right off because you don't really know what you want until you ride a lot.
I agree that a decent used bike from a reputable place is a good idea.
It's really not about being a bike snob, it's that you're probably going to be so much happier with a simple decent bike and will ride it more and have it a long time. And I can't stress how important fit is, especially if you're non-standard like me.
posted by bongo_x at 5:09 PM on May 4, 2017
Get a decent bike. The deal is you want the frame and the guts to be good quality, everything else is replaceable. The parts that are important are the non sexy parts. A good frame, headset, drivetrain, wheels, etc. High end bikes often come with shitty pedals and even saddles since they assume you're going to toss them and pick your own anyway. Don't worry about that stuff. Tires are consumables.
I'd get the simplest bike that works for you, fully rigid, no frills. The more frills there are just means they skimped on everything else to hit that price point. There's a sweet spot where you're getting something decent and more than that may just be more than you care about. You get what you pay for, but after a certain point it is diminishing returns. I always tell people to never buy an expensive bike right off because you don't really know what you want until you ride a lot.
I agree that a decent used bike from a reputable place is a good idea.
It's really not about being a bike snob, it's that you're probably going to be so much happier with a simple decent bike and will ride it more and have it a long time. And I can't stress how important fit is, especially if you're non-standard like me.
posted by bongo_x at 5:09 PM on May 4, 2017
Best answer: Wait, you're in Madison? This is pretty easy, then. Just go down to Budget Bicycle Shop and buy somebody's used Trek. College students with disposable income sell off serviceable bikes there all the time. I bought one there for $270 in 2005 and I'm still commuting on it today.
If you want something a little more social-justice-y, get a refurb from Dreambikes; I've bought two kids' bikes there with good results.
posted by escabeche at 6:34 PM on May 4, 2017
If you want something a little more social-justice-y, get a refurb from Dreambikes; I've bought two kids' bikes there with good results.
posted by escabeche at 6:34 PM on May 4, 2017
My opinion is unpopular with bike geeks. But when I was in a similar position, I bought a multispeed road bike on sale at Target for $88. I rode that bike for 6 years without a problem, including many many miles of bike club rides, triathlon training and the triathlon, and then I gave it away when I moved (in 2011) and I hear the woman I gave it to gave it a spit and polish and is also still riding it. Is it heavy? Yeah, it's chunky steel, I wouldn't want to be doing XTreem races where I have to carry it on my shoulder through a mile-long mudput. OTOH, I am not doing that, ever.
You really don't have to go whole hog on a "good" bike right now if your goal is to get out on Saturdays and ride a few miles with your kid. I know it's nice to have what bike geeks would call a "decent" bike, but you can wait a few years for that, if it's really important to you. TBH it's not important to everyone. Bike geeks will forecast dire predictions. It's not that bad. Of course a big box store bike can last more than a season. Take care of it. Keep it inside.
tl;dr: department store bikes are not as bad as all that for the casual-to-moderately-active rider. If money's an issue right now, enjoy your big box brand new bike and don't look back. It's way better to be on the road riding than saving for the "good" bike you won't be able to buy for years while you stay inside watching everyone else have fun. Ask me how I know.
posted by Miko at 7:29 PM on May 4, 2017 [3 favorites]
You really don't have to go whole hog on a "good" bike right now if your goal is to get out on Saturdays and ride a few miles with your kid. I know it's nice to have what bike geeks would call a "decent" bike, but you can wait a few years for that, if it's really important to you. TBH it's not important to everyone. Bike geeks will forecast dire predictions. It's not that bad. Of course a big box store bike can last more than a season. Take care of it. Keep it inside.
tl;dr: department store bikes are not as bad as all that for the casual-to-moderately-active rider. If money's an issue right now, enjoy your big box brand new bike and don't look back. It's way better to be on the road riding than saving for the "good" bike you won't be able to buy for years while you stay inside watching everyone else have fun. Ask me how I know.
posted by Miko at 7:29 PM on May 4, 2017 [3 favorites]
I gotta go with Miko on this one. Bicyclists will argue forever about how bad "bike shaped objects" from big box stores are, but I have pretty decent luck with them.
I've commuted 13 miles each way for the last several years, and at least half the time it's done on a very cheap Huffy/Murray/Roadmaster bike. I have a stable of rusty old alley rats, a couple might have been classy in their day, but they're all basically trash bikes. Last summer, after some low life stole my step through dumpster dive beach cruiser, I saw an ad for a $59 15 speed Huffy mountain bike at Kmart. So I looked it over and bought it. It was reasonably assembled. Only thing I changed was the flat handlebar to a 4" riser bar. All steel. I don't think there's an ounce of aluminum on the thing. Everything else seems to work fine. I might change the big fat knobbies eventually, though they are not completely ill suited to the urban environment I traverse, to be honest. I expect the first things to really wear out will be around the pedals/bottom bracket. I usually put a lot of wear on those parts, the pedals on this bike are pretty cheap, and the bottom bracket gets a lot of stress the way I ride. After that I'm guessing the seat will eventually fall apart. And if I keep it long enough, I suspect the rear wheel bearings will go. These are things I would expect from any bike, of any quality.
I think most of my luck comes from having the wherewithal to assess and fix bicycles. Being able to tell what will work, and what will not, goes a long way. Ultimately, this is the most valuable skill a bicyclist can have, right after being able to ride a bike. You come to realize that even cheap bikes simply don't fall apart like some will claim. I think they tend to be treated like disposable objects, and as a result, perform as such. Like any bike, really.
posted by 2N2222 at 9:21 PM on May 4, 2017
I've commuted 13 miles each way for the last several years, and at least half the time it's done on a very cheap Huffy/Murray/Roadmaster bike. I have a stable of rusty old alley rats, a couple might have been classy in their day, but they're all basically trash bikes. Last summer, after some low life stole my step through dumpster dive beach cruiser, I saw an ad for a $59 15 speed Huffy mountain bike at Kmart. So I looked it over and bought it. It was reasonably assembled. Only thing I changed was the flat handlebar to a 4" riser bar. All steel. I don't think there's an ounce of aluminum on the thing. Everything else seems to work fine. I might change the big fat knobbies eventually, though they are not completely ill suited to the urban environment I traverse, to be honest. I expect the first things to really wear out will be around the pedals/bottom bracket. I usually put a lot of wear on those parts, the pedals on this bike are pretty cheap, and the bottom bracket gets a lot of stress the way I ride. After that I'm guessing the seat will eventually fall apart. And if I keep it long enough, I suspect the rear wheel bearings will go. These are things I would expect from any bike, of any quality.
I think most of my luck comes from having the wherewithal to assess and fix bicycles. Being able to tell what will work, and what will not, goes a long way. Ultimately, this is the most valuable skill a bicyclist can have, right after being able to ride a bike. You come to realize that even cheap bikes simply don't fall apart like some will claim. I think they tend to be treated like disposable objects, and as a result, perform as such. Like any bike, really.
posted by 2N2222 at 9:21 PM on May 4, 2017
Decent Giant bikes start at around $350. I paid $450 for a very light (chromoly frame, so reasonably sturdy still) hybrid with 700C wheels I loved until it got stolen. My SO had a $350 cruiser with mountain bike tires which was still a damn sight better than Target or sporting goods store stuff.
Steel frames make even the slightest hills suck. They make everything that much harder. Combine that with exceedingly crappy bearings and mechanics in general and it turns riding into a total chore. For the longest time I wondered how people seemed to easily ride for hours. After spending that relative pittance, I was instantly one of those people.
The only downside was that most of the people I rode with had crappy bikes, so unless I was riding alone I had to head for home long before I felt like I was done because my companions were exhausted. Even a few extra pounds makes a huge difference. I never would have thought that it could, being 200+ lbs myself, but it does.
posted by wierdo at 11:50 PM on May 4, 2017
Steel frames make even the slightest hills suck. They make everything that much harder. Combine that with exceedingly crappy bearings and mechanics in general and it turns riding into a total chore. For the longest time I wondered how people seemed to easily ride for hours. After spending that relative pittance, I was instantly one of those people.
The only downside was that most of the people I rode with had crappy bikes, so unless I was riding alone I had to head for home long before I felt like I was done because my companions were exhausted. Even a few extra pounds makes a huge difference. I never would have thought that it could, being 200+ lbs myself, but it does.
posted by wierdo at 11:50 PM on May 4, 2017
Steel frames make even the slightest hills suck.
But they make your quads and hams awesome.
posted by Miko at 7:28 PM on May 5, 2017
But they make your quads and hams awesome.
posted by Miko at 7:28 PM on May 5, 2017
This thread is closed to new comments.
I followed the sweethome recommendation and got a trek fx7.2 last year (on sale for a bit more than you want to spend, so I'm sure they are available used, too.)
However, now I regret that I used a recommendation to buy a bike, instead of experience.
If at all possible, I highly recommend that you BORROW a few different bikes to ride, to understand what works for YOU and your style of riding. I would let you borrow mine. In fact, I would sell my bike (under 500 miles! like-new! Tons of brewery stickers!) so I could have the space to buy a different one. (this does not constitute an actual offer to sell my bike)
posted by rebent at 8:38 AM on May 4, 2017 [3 favorites]