Staying safe & having fun in Cairo, Egypt

October 7, 2016 11:22 AM

I will soon be spending a week by myself in Cairo. What should I do? What should I not do? In particular, I'm looking for live music and amazing food.

For context, I'm a white male, American, mid 40s. Okay, late 40s, dammit. Hotel room downtown already booked.

I have very limited international travel experience, and none traveling solo. I'll be spending a week in Abu Dhabi / Dubai (visiting a relative), then on to Egypt by myself. I'm not particularly fearful, generally speaking, but there are moments when I feel like I'm about to get tossed into the deep end of the pool after a 10 minute swimming lesson.

So -- I'm looking for both general tips on how to behave / interact with the locals, and recommendations on things to do. Of course I've done the expected research on the obvious tourist spots / big museums; it's the easily missed places I'm looking to hear about.

In particular, I would very much like to see as much live music as possible (and hopefully buy some music to bring home with me), and eat lots of amazing food.

Personal replies via mefimail are welcome.

posted by the bricabrac man to Travel & Transportation around Cairo, Egypt (6 answers total)

It's been about 15 years since I've been to Egypt so I can not give specific advice. But I can give you some thoughts. Please note that some of this may no longer be true

1. Egypt is more secular than some middle eastern countries, at least it was, and Cairo is metropolitan, but still, it is a predominately muslim country. Most men wear long pants and often long sleeve shirts. Only children wore shorts and the first day in Egypt I got followed by little kids laughing and pointing. It would be like an adult wearing footie pajamas down the street here. I wore jeans after that, and long sleeve shirts some times.

2. Squatting seems like it was considered rude. I had to wait in the embassy a long time in Jordan (which is next door) and the officials kept making me stand up instead of squatting.

3. In Cairo you will constantly be assailed by people selling things. I mostly just brushed them off.

4. Taxi drivers were very insistent - if it was not busy I'd sometimes get followed down the street by a taxi trying to get me to take a ride. When I arrived in Cairo my taxi driver tried to insist to me, first, that my hostel was closed and then 2nd that I wouldn't be allowed to stay there (that it was for military only or some such). He wanted me to go to his recommended hotel of course.

So I guess I'm just saying here, figure out what you want, stand firm, be prepared to walk away.

5. In touristy areas people will be very friendly and helpful but sometimes, especially younger men and kids, they will want a little something, they'll ask for "baksheesh." This is somewhere between a tip and a bribe I guess. No one I came across really wanted money, just some little thing. A cigarrete, or a little lighter, a pen or a pencil, who knows. If you don't want to do this, then again, brush people off in touristy areas *before* you accept their proffered help.

6. A lot of people will speak english and lots of stuff will have english signage. Still, I would recommend learning indian numerals before you go, it just makes some things easier - reading prices, reading bus numbers from the sides of buses, etc.

I really can't tell you where to eat or see music except that Cairo has lots of great street food.
posted by RustyBrooks at 11:51 AM on October 7, 2016 [2 favorites]

My favorite food in Egypt was the really cheap delicious Koshari available for <$1 at street carts and tiny storefronts. It's a bowl layered with rice, pasta, lentils, and tomato sauce, topped with salty fried garlic and onions. I also had some very nice meals in restaurants, but it was the bowls of koshari that I remember fondly.
posted by aimedwander at 11:57 AM on October 7, 2016 [2 favorites]

If your hotel is downtown – bring earplugs! Cairo is extremely loud even at night. Also bring Kleenex – it’s very polluted (Kleenex can be purchased from orphans on the street – pull out a 2 pound coin, and see if they are satisfied, if not, pull out another)

The $6 camel ride around the pyramid area == worth it.

If you have some time and have not seen much desert – a trip to White/Black Sahara might be worth it. I took public transport out there (in 2010) and just hooked up with a hotel outfit when I arrived to take me on a tour in a jeep. It was VERY difficult to get out of there though (2 buses a day, 3 consecutive buses did not turn up), so beware.

I don’t know, what the current political situation is, but you might be able to swing by Luxor – trains are relatively painless and fairly reliable.

In Cairo: Coptic museum was interesting. If you’re into theater – the Cairo opera was pretty impressive. The Nilometer was amazing.

Haggling is expected, but remember, that the people there are generally very poor, so don’t be aggressive about it. Learn “please” and “thank you” in Arabic, also learn how Arabic numerals are written.

People will always want to sell you stuff. Don’t follow them into dark streets, even if they ask. “You walk like an Egyptian” should be answered with “I’m not going to buy anything from you”. Exception (again, this is info from 2010) – apparently having an entry stamp in your passport allows you to get Duty Free alcohol (!) at government stores around town. You might be asked by locals to get them some (they will give you money). This is completely legit, and nothing untoward happens, if you do. If you’re feeling generous with your time, that’s a good way to make some friends.

I did not find Egyptian food to be particularly memorable. Street food was survivable. Falafel in Egypt is made with lima beans, so will be green inside.

Have fun if you can. Remember – smiling will get you far.
posted by Dotty at 1:45 PM on October 7, 2016 [1 favorite]

Go to Luxor and if you scuba dive, go to soma bay and dive the Red Sea. Those were very much more memorable experiences than Cairo for me.

Camel ride around the pyramid is definitely worth it.
posted by slateyness at 8:16 PM on October 7, 2016

Yeah I went diving in Nuweiba, and it was amazing - I actually learned to dive there, in the open ocean as opposed to a pool. I spent a week there sleeping on the beach, swimming in the morning, diving all day, and drinking beer and eating fresh fish at night. It was great.
posted by RustyBrooks at 8:52 AM on October 8, 2016

My Cairene ground game is 20 years out of date, but some things are eternal. The guidebooks will tell you about it, but do go to the Khan al Khalili and wander the relatively non-touristic parts (if any remain) like the streets of spice vendors, tentmakers, etc. Get a coffee at Fishawi's with the other tourists and consider that the place hasn't closed its doors since before the American revolution. I remember there being a pretty decent dessert fatatri in the square near the entrance, too, if you fancy fiteer.

For a music/performance, the big thing that comes to mind is the Al Ghuri Sufi dance performance. It's not representative of mainstream Egypt, but I don't know where else you'd find a similar experience.

I have much fondness for Nuweiba, but if you're only in Cairo for a week I can't possibly recommend taking a bus across the Sinai just to sleep in a grass hut, smoke dank bedouin nugs and eat mango pancakes on the beach. There are actual wonders of the ancient world to be seen back in town. Which, yeah, are in the guidebooks, but you gotta, right? Giza (obvs), the Egyptian Museum, Coptic Cairo, the Citadel/Islamic Cairo... your days are going to be full just hitting the highest of high notes. If you really want to get out of the city you might consider a day trip to the Faiyum if anyone's offering a package tour. Wouldn't bother with Port Said.

Food wise, I would eat all the legit koshary, fuul, tamiyya sandwiches, lentil soup and fresh juices I could get my hands on, but mummy tummy is real. Without the benefit of native intestinal flora, you could be risking some significant downtime if you eat down at cart/hole-in-the-wall level. I'd think Koshary Abu Tarek and Felfela were safe bets, though, and conveniently downtown.
posted by mumkin at 2:58 AM on October 9, 2016