Exploring Florida
August 9, 2016 2:46 PM Subscribe
In my quest to see more of the USA, I have a vacation in Florida. I will start in the panhandle, and would like to see the Keys. No real schedule, just a week or four driving in Florida. Camping/rv parks ok. What should I see and do?
Main focus is on the Keys, but I should also see the Everglades, and piratey stuff? Not interested in Disney. But space, nature, and anything else unique or fascinating. I'm used to camping/eating on the road/scrounging wifi and power and showers, but would love recommendations for things to see and do!
Thank you!
Main focus is on the Keys, but I should also see the Everglades, and piratey stuff? Not interested in Disney. But space, nature, and anything else unique or fascinating. I'm used to camping/eating on the road/scrounging wifi and power and showers, but would love recommendations for things to see and do!
Thank you!
I did the same thing about ten years ago; the most enjoyable/memorable part of the trip for me was visiting Apalachicola in the curve of the panhandle. Nearby are St. George Island (which creates a protected bay), Tate's Hell State Forest, and Apalachicola National Forest. Back then it was pretty underdeveloped; not sure what it's like now. I had the best oysters of my life there. I've been to the Keys numerous times, including on that trip, and they're amazing...but man, do I wish I could go back to Apalachicola!
posted by stellaluna at 3:01 PM on August 9, 2016 [1 favorite]
posted by stellaluna at 3:01 PM on August 9, 2016 [1 favorite]
You should definitely go to the Everglades.
posted by Lutoslawski at 3:05 PM on August 9, 2016 [1 favorite]
posted by Lutoslawski at 3:05 PM on August 9, 2016 [1 favorite]
There's the Dali museum in St. Petersburg, which is on the Gulf Coast near the panhandle - it has all of his masterworks!
posted by ananci at 3:16 PM on August 9, 2016 [3 favorites]
posted by ananci at 3:16 PM on August 9, 2016 [3 favorites]
Devil's Millhopper outside of Gainesville is a nice quickstop. as is the Alatchula Sink if you end up in that part of the state.
posted by Dr. Twist at 3:22 PM on August 9, 2016 [1 favorite]
posted by Dr. Twist at 3:22 PM on August 9, 2016 [1 favorite]
This website has a whole lot of articles/lists about cool off the beaten path places to go, see or eat at. I've found neat stuff on there that I'd never heard of, and I'm a native.
Tarpon Springs near Tampa is a neat Greek fishing town that does a lot of sponge diving.
posted by hollygoheavy at 3:25 PM on August 9, 2016 [1 favorite]
Tarpon Springs near Tampa is a neat Greek fishing town that does a lot of sponge diving.
posted by hollygoheavy at 3:25 PM on August 9, 2016 [1 favorite]
If I ever find myself in northern Florida, I have vowed to complete the Tom Petty trinity: I will go to Brooker and Micanopy, then find the tree he planted while a groundskeeper at University of Florida.
posted by apparently at 3:26 PM on August 9, 2016
posted by apparently at 3:26 PM on August 9, 2016
You should start in Pensacola. Visit the National Naval Aviation Museum and Fort Barrancas, part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore. DO drinks and sunset at the Flora-Bama or Flounder's, depending which side of the pass you're on. Rent a watercraft and spend the day on the Blackwater River. Scuba dive the USS Oriskany. Go to Helen Back for pizza, and walk on the beach on Okaloosa IslandMcGuire's in Destin.
Eat some oysters in Apalachicola.
You might stop in Crystal River or Homosassa on your way south. Snorkel the national wildlife refuge with the manatees. See the mermaids. Stop at the old cigar factory in Ybor City. see Eggs On A Plate Without The Plate. Go to St. Pete Beach or Clearwater Beach for the sunset, maybe at Frenchy's. Drive over the Sunshine Skyway. Poke around Anna Maria Island. Go to the Circus Museum.
THE GLADES.
Take your times in the Keys. Go to Pennekamp, Windley Key, Sombrero Beach, Bahia Honda, Key Deer on Big Pine, The Hogfish, rent kayaks or paddleboards, ask the counter about pick up Ultimate games. Sunset at Mallory Square, Hemingway House, Fort Zack, The Porch, boat trip to Dry Tortugas, sunset cruise or just chill.
Read Tim Dorsey and Carl Hiaasen while you lay on the beach
posted by the man of twists and turns at 3:37 PM on August 9, 2016 [6 favorites]
Eat some oysters in Apalachicola.
You might stop in Crystal River or Homosassa on your way south. Snorkel the national wildlife refuge with the manatees. See the mermaids. Stop at the old cigar factory in Ybor City. see Eggs On A Plate Without The Plate. Go to St. Pete Beach or Clearwater Beach for the sunset, maybe at Frenchy's. Drive over the Sunshine Skyway. Poke around Anna Maria Island. Go to the Circus Museum.
THE GLADES.
Take your times in the Keys. Go to Pennekamp, Windley Key, Sombrero Beach, Bahia Honda, Key Deer on Big Pine, The Hogfish, rent kayaks or paddleboards, ask the counter about pick up Ultimate games. Sunset at Mallory Square, Hemingway House, Fort Zack, The Porch, boat trip to Dry Tortugas, sunset cruise or just chill.
Read Tim Dorsey and Carl Hiaasen while you lay on the beach
posted by the man of twists and turns at 3:37 PM on August 9, 2016 [6 favorites]
If you're going to start in the panhandle, I would definitely recommend exploring the Destin area. Absolutely beautiful beaches, and a lot of cute local shops. I would recommend exploring Watercolor and Seaside areas. (Part of the Truman Show was taped in Seaside, which I always thought was a neat fun fact.) Watercolor is a nice place to stay if you can find a room or even a townhouse in your price range, but Seaside has a great little center with restaurants and shops. It's a 10 minute walk along the beach between Seaside and Watercolor. (I haven't been there in several years, but I used to visit regularly.)
The only caveat is that you'll want to stay clear of that area in March due to all the Spring Break visitors.
Wakulla Springs is neat too.
The Marianna Caverns are worth a visit, and you can camp there if you'd like (either tent or RV).
posted by litera scripta manet at 3:56 PM on August 9, 2016
The only caveat is that you'll want to stay clear of that area in March due to all the Spring Break visitors.
Wakulla Springs is neat too.
The Marianna Caverns are worth a visit, and you can camp there if you'd like (either tent or RV).
posted by litera scripta manet at 3:56 PM on August 9, 2016
Saint Augustine is the beach town central Floridians escape to for a weekend getaway. Kind of touristy, but small, and not Disneyfied. It's got a neat old Spanish fort, tons of delicious food, even a winery. There's a great little cafe/music venue, Cafe Eleven, that does a killer brunch buffet on weekends. And for piratey goodness, look no further than Pirate Haus (also one of the cheapest places to stay in town). If you're in Saint Augustine during warm weather, get a popsicle at The Hyppo.
New Smyrna Beach is also lovely, if you're looking for a more low-key beach town. If you end up there, get hush puppies and gator bites at JB's Fish Camp.
hollygoheavy's Tarpon Springs suggestion is another winner.
And for god's sake, wherever you end up, you must go to a Publix deli counter and order a Publix sub at least once, or you won't have really seen Florida.
posted by Owlcat at 5:14 PM on August 9, 2016 [2 favorites]
New Smyrna Beach is also lovely, if you're looking for a more low-key beach town. If you end up there, get hush puppies and gator bites at JB's Fish Camp.
hollygoheavy's Tarpon Springs suggestion is another winner.
And for god's sake, wherever you end up, you must go to a Publix deli counter and order a Publix sub at least once, or you won't have really seen Florida.
posted by Owlcat at 5:14 PM on August 9, 2016 [2 favorites]
St. Augustine also has the fountain of youth.
posted by bricksNmortar at 5:54 PM on August 9, 2016
posted by bricksNmortar at 5:54 PM on August 9, 2016
I did the same thing about ten years ago; the most enjoyable/memorable part of the trip for me was visiting Apalachicola in the curve of the panhandle. Nearby are St. George Island (which creates a protected bay), Tate's Hell State Forest, and Apalachicola National Forest.
If you end up doing some of this, send me a memail and I'll advise as best I can since I lived there for a few years while the wife was doing her PhD at FSU. Ditto for if you end up in Pensacola area since I grew up there and know it fairly well as well.
I'm currently closer to Jacksonville on Amelia Island since we moved here a month or two ago and it's really, really nice as well. I keep expecting it to be terrible and crowded and touristy but it just keeps on being low key but with all the features and none of the bugs I usually expect out of being near the beach.
So, yea memail me me and I'm glad to talk about things in any of those 3 locations that I can speak to.
posted by RolandOfEld at 6:20 PM on August 9, 2016
If you end up doing some of this, send me a memail and I'll advise as best I can since I lived there for a few years while the wife was doing her PhD at FSU. Ditto for if you end up in Pensacola area since I grew up there and know it fairly well as well.
I'm currently closer to Jacksonville on Amelia Island since we moved here a month or two ago and it's really, really nice as well. I keep expecting it to be terrible and crowded and touristy but it just keeps on being low key but with all the features and none of the bugs I usually expect out of being near the beach.
So, yea memail me me and I'm glad to talk about things in any of those 3 locations that I can speak to.
posted by RolandOfEld at 6:20 PM on August 9, 2016
Troy Springs is in north Florida and has a scuttled Confederate ship! I was there 27 years ago as a teen and it's one of my best memories.
posted by PorcineWithMe at 7:58 PM on August 9, 2016
posted by PorcineWithMe at 7:58 PM on August 9, 2016
I know that this of a different theme - but south beach is worth seeing. (It's expensive, so bring your own lunch!) Walk the art deco hotels, check out the funky plastic surgery on display at the beach, see a drag show. It's an experience - also the water is fantastic.
posted by Toddles at 9:53 PM on August 9, 2016
posted by Toddles at 9:53 PM on August 9, 2016
My personal prejudices can't strongly advocate deliberately going to Fort Myers (childhood there, ugh) BUT if you wind up there, there is: (if you're there in the winter) the Manatee Park out east; (regardless of their respective characters) The Thomas Edison/Henry Ford Estates have nice gardens and some neat stuff; get a fish sandwich here in Matlacha; and, if you like old zombie movies, Romero's Day of the Dead exterior shots were filmed downtown, although it does look a bit different now. And, in the Keys, stop by (and please donate, too!) the Turtle Hospital- a sea turtle rehab place; be sure to park and rent scooters instead in Key West (downtown, not on the fast, scary north end); and Key West has a great Butterfly Conservatory, too. Also, seconding the Hiaasen recommendation, too. Have fun!
posted by JulesER at 5:22 AM on August 10, 2016
posted by JulesER at 5:22 AM on August 10, 2016
In the Keys, visit Indian Key and Lignumvitea Key. See Joy Williams' guidebook to the Keys, the best guidebook ever written about anyplace. And yes, see the Art Deco architecture on South Beach; take a day and walk it or at least drive slowly. Florida is basically screwed, I say as a native who left, but there are tiny pockets of interest.
posted by Skipjack at 7:25 AM on August 10, 2016 [1 favorite]
posted by Skipjack at 7:25 AM on August 10, 2016 [1 favorite]
Have you considered a side trip to Cedar Key? It's a small island town about an hour from Gainesville. It's pretty sleepy, there are no restaurant/grocery chains, they have some good seafood, as well as a nice craft beer bar that keeps erratic hours. I grew up there during summers because my dad lives there (and he's there still; he is now the Chief of Police) and have come to appreciate its lethargic sunset-watching properties as I get older.
posted by Kitteh at 7:36 AM on August 10, 2016
posted by Kitteh at 7:36 AM on August 10, 2016
Seconding snorkeling at Crystal River with manatees. Get on one of the early boats. I ended up there randomly on a work trip and it was a great experience.
posted by craven_morhead at 8:28 AM on August 10, 2016 [2 favorites]
posted by craven_morhead at 8:28 AM on August 10, 2016 [2 favorites]
Apalachicola and St. George Island are still beautiful and isolated. I live near them now, and my in-laws like to visit the beach for a week every June. It's quiet, and I personally can only handle about a weekend, but it's worth a visit.
Amelia Island, Fernandina Beach and St. Augustine are my favorite places to see on the East Coast, if you head that direction. I think the Gulf side is prettier, though, and US-27 down from Panama City, through St. George, down past Cedar Key, Crystal River, and down towards Tampa is just a gorgeous drive.
I'm from Fort Myers, originally, and aside from Sanibel, it's probably worth a miss.
If I were you, I'd start in the panhandle, take US-27 down toward Tampa, then scoot over on I-4 to Orlando, maybe catching the toll-road, Florida's Turnpike, down toward Miami. From there, I'd detour down to the Keys, all the way to Key West and back (so beautiful), then head up 95 toward St. Augustine and the Space Coast, to finish the Tour of Florida.
Also, most people don't realize how big Florida is. A true circle of Florida, from the Panhandle and around toward Amelia Island, with the FL Keys side tour, would probably take a solid 24 hours of driving, especially if you take the scenic routes, like we're suggesting. Adding in the inevitable traffic would add more hours. I wouldn't want to do this unless I had at least a couple of weeks to dedicate towards to the trip, so I could actually relax a little between the endless hours of driving.
posted by PearlRose at 10:09 AM on August 10, 2016
Amelia Island, Fernandina Beach and St. Augustine are my favorite places to see on the East Coast, if you head that direction. I think the Gulf side is prettier, though, and US-27 down from Panama City, through St. George, down past Cedar Key, Crystal River, and down towards Tampa is just a gorgeous drive.
I'm from Fort Myers, originally, and aside from Sanibel, it's probably worth a miss.
If I were you, I'd start in the panhandle, take US-27 down toward Tampa, then scoot over on I-4 to Orlando, maybe catching the toll-road, Florida's Turnpike, down toward Miami. From there, I'd detour down to the Keys, all the way to Key West and back (so beautiful), then head up 95 toward St. Augustine and the Space Coast, to finish the Tour of Florida.
Also, most people don't realize how big Florida is. A true circle of Florida, from the Panhandle and around toward Amelia Island, with the FL Keys side tour, would probably take a solid 24 hours of driving, especially if you take the scenic routes, like we're suggesting. Adding in the inevitable traffic would add more hours. I wouldn't want to do this unless I had at least a couple of weeks to dedicate towards to the trip, so I could actually relax a little between the endless hours of driving.
posted by PearlRose at 10:09 AM on August 10, 2016
The Kennedy Space Center at Cape Canaveral is really amazingly wonderful!
We visit Apalachicola and St. George Island quite frequently. You can find state and private campgrounds around there but remember it gets stupid hot and humid. If you like oysters, Apalachicola is a place you'll want to be.
North of Pensacola is a little town called Milton, which was pleasant. Adventures Unlimited in Milton offers a campground (and other accommodations) and you can kayak, canoe, and zipline there, too. It was really fun!
posted by FergieBelle at 12:17 PM on August 10, 2016 [1 favorite]
We visit Apalachicola and St. George Island quite frequently. You can find state and private campgrounds around there but remember it gets stupid hot and humid. If you like oysters, Apalachicola is a place you'll want to be.
North of Pensacola is a little town called Milton, which was pleasant. Adventures Unlimited in Milton offers a campground (and other accommodations) and you can kayak, canoe, and zipline there, too. It was really fun!
posted by FergieBelle at 12:17 PM on August 10, 2016 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Urgh, forgot to mention it will be mid- September. I'm in Houston so I figure I can handle any heat/humidity/blinding, burning Daystar fire. I've actually been to Amelia Island, and it was awesome!
posted by Jacen at 1:42 PM on August 10, 2016
posted by Jacen at 1:42 PM on August 10, 2016
Go camping or tubing/kayak/swim/snorkel at some of the natural springs.
Also recommend the inimitable historic Tampa Theatre
Recommend the Dali Museum in St. Pete as well.
Sanibel Island and Captiva Island on the Gulf Coast have lovely beaches.
posted by grokfest at 8:38 PM on August 10, 2016
Also recommend the inimitable historic Tampa Theatre
Recommend the Dali Museum in St. Pete as well.
Sanibel Island and Captiva Island on the Gulf Coast have lovely beaches.
posted by grokfest at 8:38 PM on August 10, 2016
Go to one of the hundreds of freshwater springs, many state protected and swim.
posted by the man of twists and turns at 11:40 AM on August 15, 2016
posted by the man of twists and turns at 11:40 AM on August 15, 2016
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by feste at 2:59 PM on August 9, 2016