Survival guide for Mardi Gras in New Orleans
December 29, 2015 4:02 PM   Subscribe

I've been invited to spend Mardi Gras with family friends in New Orleans. I'll be there for an extended visit, from Feb. 5th through the 10th, but I've never even been to NO, let alone experienced Mardi Gras, and it sounds kind of...intense.

If you've been, I would love to hear about your experience! Tips and tricks for having a great time? Must do and must avoid events? I'm in my late 30s (although I'll mostly be hanging with folks 10-15 years younger, heaven help me), a moderate drinker with a mid-level tolerance for crowds, but I'm pretty game for fun and frolic, and do love to dress up. So maybe the most important question...what do I wear?!?
posted by merriment to Travel & Transportation around New Orleans, LA (14 answers total) 3 users marked this as a favorite
 
So I've never done Mardi Gras proper, but for a couple of years, I had an annual work meeting that happened just before Mardi Gras. I think it really depends on your personality re: what's great. I'm a very introverted jazz lover, so this was a great time period for me. Fun to see the pre-parade processions and get beads, hear good music and then, were I you, hang out with my family friends during the craziness to avoid the crowds and amateurs who can't handle their liquor.

I do love the French Quarter on a weekend so you can meander from corner to corner to hear all kinds of music with a daiquiri in hand (such a indulgence!) but also to wander the cemeteries and the Garden District, soaking it up. Yes, this is all totally tourist, but also coffee and beignets at Cafe du Monde is a must if you've not. I've found it's hard to find bad food or bad music if you've your ears open (which for me, is 99% of New Orleans).

Better yet to ask your friends to show you around. An old friend took me to a tiny barbecue joint that was awesome but only known to locals.
posted by smirkette at 5:10 PM on December 29, 2015


Here's the general advice I give everyone who has never done Mardi Gras before: at some point you are likely to lose your group. Have a backup plan for where to meet and when. Not "at the intersection of St. Charles and Washington" because during a parade there will be literally hundreds of people right there. Make it very specific, like "on the right-hand side of that big live oak tree that's on the other side of the street over there." I've lost friends that were literally just ten feet away from me.

Likewise, write down the address of where you're staying as well as the numbers for a few cab companies (United, White Fleet for starters) on a piece of paper. You may lose your phone, or you may not be able to get signal because there are thousands of people in the neighborhood trying to use theirs at the same time. Safety pin it to your shirt if you have to.

The last thing you want is to be lost in a new city and surrounded by idiots and have no way of reaching your people or finding them again.

Having said all that ... New Orleans is a very friendly city and even in the middle of the biggest pile of idiocy you're likely to find a reasonably sober and very helpful person who will get you where you need to go, or at least point you in the right direction.

Parades: there are crazy parts of the route where everyone is packed 20 deep and screaming, and there are easier parts of the route where it's definitely family-friendly and low levels of frat-drunk lunatics. Your local friends will know where to take you, especially if you make your preference stated. For example, if you wanted to watch Le Krewe d'Etat you could catch it on Magazine St. just downtown from Jefferson and be guaranteed a spot on the sidewalk front and center. Two miles further up St. Charles? You'll be in the aforementioned 20 deep.

For the most part the parades are the events. It's everyone hanging out together outside having a good time. Bring your own booze (not in glass, please) and don't be afraid to drink in front of a cop, even if it feels weird. Be prepared to search out porta-potties and bring with you whatever you will need to feel comfortable using them (hand sanitizer, wipes, whatever).

What to wear? For the parades, it's whatever makes you comfortable. No one will be looking at you - all eyes on the floats and bands and flambeaux and riders. Bring an extra bag because it's likely you'll get caught up in first-timer fever and find yourself walking home with dozens of strings of beads and a handful of throw cups and tons of other things, and a place to chuck 'em all will be helpful. If you're here for Fat Tuesday itself, then you'll need a costume of some sort. There are basically three types of people outdoors on Mardi Gras day:
- no costume (utterly unforgivably lame)
- wearing a costume, like the hundreds of people around them
- "oh shit that costume must have taken hours to make and it's INCREDIBLE"
so if you just want to wear some funny clothing and a hat and a mask or whatever then you'll have expended the minimum amount of effort to keep from looking like a clueless tourist.

Be prepared to sleep in a lot, hanging out with kids that young, because they'll probably have you out all night. Be prepared to have no idea where you're headed next but you know you'll have fun when you get there.

Of course everyone's experiences vary. If you can give me some more concrete dates then I can make specific recommendations of things to see and do. The closer you get to Mardi Gras itself, the more frequent the parades and parties.

(side note: the season between Twelfth Night and Lent is called Carnival, and many die-hards here will refer to the general season as such and save the words 'Mardi Gras' for the Tuesday itself, in case there's any confusion about my wording above)

I know we have several MetaFilter users here, so I'm sure someone else will be along to answer with their perspective which may differ wildly from mine. If you have specific non-public questions feel free to MeMail me.
posted by komara at 6:26 PM on December 29, 2015 [8 favorites]


I went to Mardi Gras with friends in my mid twenties. Our group was mostly local grad/law students and a few of us out-of-towners. There are a few takeaways I tell anybody who asks, but bear in mind it's been a few years since I went so things may have changed (most likely not, but caveat emptor):

1) Drinking in front of cops is fine. Peeing is emphatically not. Which brings us to:
2) Enterprising folks set up porta potties you have to pay to use; have cash money, or do what we did and have a group member with access to an apartment/home on or very near the parade route itself. This is awesome if you can swing it (especially since it makes it hard to lose people, since you have a home base). A group of 10 or 15 people will easily require 50-80 bathroom visits at a minimum, collectively.
3) PACE YOURSELF. We would typically go down to a parade route in the morning, stay there all day, then hit up food and the bars/music venues at night. If you really go nuts this can mean your day will start at 9 or 10am and end at 4am (your ability to sustain this pace is probably questionable). Obviously this is can be murder on your liver if you're careless. Stick to low ABV beer or w/e during the day, and stick together at night unless you're cabbing it to bed. Hydration and greasy food are your friends.
4) There are all kinds of weirdos around, and the boozing intensifies this. Keep an eye out for your friends (especially, unfortunately, your female friends -- I had to intervene with some drunk guy who just WOULD NOT leave a trio of women from our group alone; he actually threatened to shoot me, which was funny at the time b/c he was obviously unarmed but in 2015 seems scarily possible). If you're on a parade route the cops are usually very easy to find should it become necessary, but probably it won't.
5) You're going to end up with a lot of beads. Most of them you won't want to keep (I had, seriously, a garbage bag full of beads after a few days, and I wasn't really trying); a few are cool unique things but a lot are just the plastic ones that come to mind when anyone says "mardi gras beads." I don't have a good suggestion for what to do with them, because they're pretty valueless, but do spare a thought to any you'd like to keep.
6) Plan for the weather. Being at a parade in the rain can be surprisingly fun, but that bead dye washes off easily so wear them outside a cheap plastic parka or something so you don't end up particolored yourself. Conversely a hat and sunscreen if it's sunny. Sun + alcohol can be a dangerous pairing, but you probably already know this.
7) I actually recommend avoiding bourbon street unless there's something there you absolutely must see. Others might disagree, and it depends on your level of extrovertedness and tolerance for crowds.
8) Familiarize yourself with the general layout of the area(s) you'll be in and the city itself. It helps to know where things are and how people orient themselves (e.g., where is the Garden District in relation to Mid-City? what are the major streets in the area we'll be in?).
9) Locals will know which parades/krewes are the best. Ask.

That's all I got.
posted by axiom at 7:55 PM on December 29, 2015


What aspect of the intensity worries you? I'm a moderate drinker, with an *extremely* low tolerance for crowds, and last year, I went to the Krewe of Muses parade (so, admittedly, not the full-on multi-day experience, which others have addressed). Muses is one of the first all-woman krewes, but I was still vaguely dreading it, because I had premonitions/flashbacks of episodes of "Cops" and "Girls Gone Wild". Bros/gross. But I was totally wrong, and it was fucking amazing and lovely. A ton of families in attendance, and no (naked) boobs, but not as square as that makes it sound. Gorgeous floats and sequined shoes. I can't wait to go back. My advice is to get to events relatively early (because car traffic/parking is insane and streetcars are packed) and be aware of your nearest bodega and toilet.
posted by unknowncommand at 8:47 PM on December 29, 2015


I have been to Mardi Gras and to Jazz Fest. NO is a terrific town for us out of town partiers. The advice you got above is all good depending on your levels of tolerance for uncertainty and for drinking.

What I found most helpful was to keep one or two bottles of water in my back pockets. Hydration is priority #1 just ahead of recovery sleep and some great breakfast.

I would add that despite best efforts, cell phone batteries will die when you least can afford it. As noted above, have a backup meeting place that is pretty specific. Do not rely on texting a "Where the heck are you guys?" They may not get it, you may not be able to send it and they may not even be able to answer clearly if they do get it.

If you are flying down there, I advise bringing noise cancellation head phones for the plane ride back. You will have a monster headache and will not want to deal with anything or anyone. Slap those bad boys on, have a glass of OJ and sleep.

Enjoy and remember, as my college roommate kept telling me whenever I was waning, you only go to Mardi Gras for the first time once so make the most of it. Or something like that that seemed to make more sense the later in the day it got.
posted by AugustWest at 10:39 PM on December 29, 2015


Born and raised in NO. You are going to be here for the big Carnival weekend that includes Mardi Gras day: Lucky you!
Pack several pairs of comfortable shoes because you will walk a lot. You will need more than 1 pair because of the potential for rain, mud, drink spillage, vomit or other unforeseen Carnival issues.
Parades roll when raining unless it's very windy or a lightning storm. So pack rain gear or plan to buy. There is usually a rainy day or days over the 5-day stretch you will be in town.
Bourbon Street can be fun but I suggest small doses if that is on your group itinerary. Frenchman Street (right outside of the French Quarter) is also fun with bars full of good music day and night. A better place to hang out for longer durations.
The Bywater (neighborhood right outside of the French Quarter) is highly recommended on Mardi Gras morning to see the Society of St. Anne Walking Parade that goes through the neighborhood. Full of locals who dress in very elaborate and wonderful costumes. The parade grows as it moves through the neighborhood and other costumers join in. It is my favorite part of Mardi Gras day.
An ice chest, especially with wheels, is a great help during parades. Snacks, water and your alcohol of choice are great when kept chilled and much easier access than waiting in line in bars and missing the fun on the parade route. If it's sturdy enough, you can also use it as a seat.
Don't buy any beads. Total waste of money. You will catch so much. Give away most of the beads you catch to kids around you. Keep the really cool ones.
Good suggestions from komara about keeping up with your group and knowing how to find your way back to them and your lodging. Cell phone networks are pushed to the max during parades because of all the people on the parade routes. I have gotten many backlogged texts after parades from people trying to meet up with me during parades that could not go through because of the heavy usage.
Talk to the locals you meet during your wanderings. They will have plenty of stories, advice and suggestions.
Memail me if you need more info. Have a great Carnival!
posted by narancia at 7:10 AM on December 30, 2015 [1 favorite]


In 2009 I observed my BIRTHDAY on Mardi Gras (it was really the day after, and I figured it was close enough). The only time I saw anything like the "Girls gone wild" kind of stuff was on Mardi Gras Proper, in the French Quarter itself, after dark. Every other parade was more like a slightly-more-crowded-and-boisterous-than-normal parade. I didn't drink, I didn't try to flash anyone for beads. At one point I managed to catch beads without trying either (I was just standing there, and by blind chance I swear to God that a string of beads landed right around my neck like I was a ring toss).

I'd say if you avoid the Quarter on he night of Mardi Gras itself you'll avoid the worst of the mayhem. Your problem may be more finding a place to eat because everywhere is gonna be PAAAAAAACKED....

oh - and the streetcars will have occasional service interruptions.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 8:30 AM on December 30, 2015


"If you can give me some more concrete dates then I can make specific recommendations of things to see and do."

Or perhaps if I'd pay closer attention to what's above the cut I would see that you already did provide the dates you'll be in town. Jeez.

If you're here early enough on the 5th then you can find a spot to catch the long, long evening of Hermes, d'Etat, and Morpheus. That's one of my favorite nights (for personal reasons) and I think those three are a good representation of just how varied and wild the floats can be.

On the 6th my preference would be to go Uptown to catch Iris and Tucks and then take the evening off, but apparently everyone else in the world thinks it's appropriate to go to Endymion. If you want over-the-top spectacle then give Endymion a try, but don't worry if you miss it. As the dates go by the krewes and their parades get more and more extravagant.

7th: feeling like you can power through this? Go out early and catch Okeanos, Mid-City, and Thoth. If you're wiped out, skip them, spend the day recovering enough to see Bacchus in the evening. I like to watch Bacchus downtown, somewhere near Lafayette Square.

8th / Lundi Gras: I have no strong feelings about Orpheus (I mean it's pretty, but kind of soulless IMO) but I love Proteus. They're they second-oldes krewe (founded 1882) and they're still giving some of that tradition with floats with wooden wheels, classic themes, etc. [bonus history lesson about Proteus, integration of krewes, etc.]

but hey, seriously, if you're the least bit tired then I suggest skipping Lundi Gras entirely because it's far more important to be rested up for:

Mardi Gras: I can't begin to tell you what to do here. narancia's suggestion of going to the Marigny to catch the Krewe of St. Ann is probably a winner, since after watching all this spectacle you'll finally find yourself as part of it, not separate from it. That alone is wonderful. Since this is your first Mardi Gras you may be paraded out by this point, and honestly Rex and Zulu don't offer anything so mind-blowing that you just have to see them. Better to get down to the French Quarter or the Marigny and see some good fun on the ground. My personal favorite is the intersection of Royal and Kerlerec outside the R Bar - a constant flow of incredible costumes.

... buuu-u-u-u-t if your Carnival experience is like most people's first Carnival experiences (mine included) then most plans go out the window and you just ride this long drunken celebratory flow over a couple of days, and end up in neighborhoods you didn't mean to visit, and missing parades you said you wanted to watch and seeing others you didn't intend to, and going home exhausted and content.

Best piece of advice I can give on this front: Carnival is a marathon, not a sprint. Pace yourself. You have days of spectacle and wonder ahead of you.

Bonus Round: if you have paced yourself and you're still upright by 11:59 PM on Mardi Gras (and more power to you if you are) then it's fascinating to be on Bourbon St. at midnight to watch the NOPD come through saying, basically, "Carnival is over. Go home." with the sanitation crews behind them beginning to clean up the (literal) tons of trash. Of course the bars don't close or anything, but this does serve to show most of the tourists that it's time to go back to their hotel rooms and sleep it off. It's an interesting sight and it shows just how literal we can be about the start and finish of Carnival.
posted by komara at 8:42 AM on December 30, 2015 [2 favorites]


There is tons of good advice here of a very practical nature, but as a former NOLA resident who will probably always return for Mardi Gras, I'd like to offer some brief advice of a more philosophical bent.

Mardi Gras is intense, if you do it right! It's an ecstatic experience. Throw yourself into it with wild abandon, accept that you are going to do and see things that on any other day would be bizarre and inappropriate, that boundaries are going to be lowered, that things are going to get weird and wild. Hang onto your personal values, keep your wits about you, and pace yourself. But accept that you will be stepping outside the bounds of normal life, dropping some of the strictures that sometimes make human interactions feel stilted and false, and revel in the beauty of uninhibited celebration with hundreds of thousands of your fellow human beings, all of whom (well, almost—keep your wits about you!) will be engaged in a like-minded celebration of beauty and pleasure and artistry.

There's nothing quite like Mardi Gras Day in New Orleans. It's bigger than you, bigger than any one person. Merge and flow and give yourself over to celebration and revelry. It's not for every day, but as a once-a-year excursion from reality it is profoundly nourishing for the soul.
posted by Anticipation Of A New Lover's Arrival, The at 9:38 AM on December 30, 2015 [2 favorites]


Oh, and wear a costume of course! You don't have to be anything in particular; this isn't Halloween! But something bright
and silly and shiny, with lots and lots of color. You can be sexy, or scary, or mysterious, or just fun. A silly hat is encouraged. Home-made finery is always a plus. Also it should be weather-appropriate, comfortable enough for lots of walking, and have safe places for your stuff. And if you go as a giant cardboard robot, make sure you have a way to pee.
posted by Anticipation Of A New Lover's Arrival, The at 9:43 AM on December 30, 2015 [1 favorite]


Response by poster: Thank you, thank you ALL for the wonderful, generous advice! Appreciate everything from the reassurances to the practical tips and philosophical approaches! Definitely getting excited for my trip.
posted by merriment at 11:27 AM on December 30, 2015


I lived in New Orleans for about a decade. Mardi Gras is super fun! There is lots of good advice so far.

- Agree about comfortable shoes and warm/dry clothes. Nobody cares what you look like so plan for comfort. I had an old pair of sneakers I called "Mardi Gras shoes" that I didn't care about. Warm boots are also great if it's cold and wet (which happens). I get cold easily so I usually wear ski socks too. Parades will roll if it's drizzling (but they'll reschedule or cancel if it's pouring).

- Definitely have a bathroom plan. Are the people you're going with locals? If so, they might know people who live on the parade route or have ins at a bar nearby or something. If not, figure out your game plan. There is at least one church that sets up port-a-lets on St. Charles Ave., and they're actually pretty clean.

- Cash in small bills is helpful, to buy beer, water, pay for above-mentioned port-a-potty donation, pizza, etc.

- Definitely dress up! Mardi Gras day is basically like Halloween. (Here's me in 2009 - coldchef is somewhere nearby!)

- Everyone is super nice. You will probably make a lot of random friends on the parade route, particularly if you are Uptown which is very family-oriented. If you are lost or confused, don't be shy about asking for directions/help.

- Speaking of Uptown, it's generally way more fun to watch the parades in that area and in the Garden District than to be downtown. More families, fewer touristy assholes.

- Separating from your group at some point is pretty much a given. It happens in New Orleans all the time under the best of circumstances. Know where you're staying and how to get home by yourself, and you'll be fine. Cell phones should work fine during parades (they bring in a lot of temp towers) but sometimes people don't hear their phones when it's loud and they're drunk.

- There are a ton of websites with schedules and updates. I usually used Nola.com/mardigras but someone who lives there now might have a better one. Definitely get a Parade Tracker app on your phone. That will tell you start times and routes, and also any delays. TV stations WDSU and WWL have them, not sure which is best.

- Speaking of throws, you'll get a ton of stuff. You'll learn quickly that there is a hierarchy -- basic beads at the bottom, then fancy beads and medallions, then stuffed animals and other toys, and on top are things like Muses shoes. Parades also throw out custom medallions. Make sure you have room in your suitcase to bring back souvenirs for yourself and friends/family.
posted by radioamy at 11:41 AM on December 30, 2015


Considering that Mardi Gras will be over in just under two hours I think it's not too early to ask if you had a good time. I hope you did.
posted by komara at 8:11 PM on February 9, 2016


Response by poster: I had SUCH A GOOD TIME, thanks in no small part to the generous advice given here. Highlights included:

1) Drinks on Friday afternoon at Carousel Bar, watching the world go by, followed by dancing to bands in Jackson Square.

2) Getting to meet komara as he marched in the D'Etat parade, in what might have been the fasted Metafilter meetup ever.

3) Dressing up and attending the Endymion Ball on Saturday night, which was a whole different kind of crazy than what I'd experienced the night before.

4) Watching Bacchus on Sunday night, freezing cold and effectively by ourselves for much of it, because of the Super Bowl, and cheering on all of the absolutely indomitable majorettes in their weather-inappropriate gear.

5) But nothing prepared me for marching on Tuesday with my host's family in the Krewe of St. Ann, seeing so many neighborhoods on foot as part of a huge costumed crowd, walking all the way down to the river behind the band and watching people put ashes in the water. I'll never forget it.

None of this even touches on all the good things I ate and drank, or all of the things I wanted to do and see, but missed in favor of all the things I *did* do and see. I feel like five days were barely enough to scratch the surface. I know I'll be thinking about my trip for a long time, and I'm already scheming about how to make another visit happen. Thanks again to everyone for the tremendously helpful advice!
posted by merriment at 9:42 PM on February 11, 2016 [2 favorites]


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