Please help me hold it all together! (medical corsetry advice needed)
August 15, 2015 8:26 PM   Subscribe

I need help finding a light-duty corset to wear every day under both work and casual clothes with the goal of changing how I feel (I have POTS), rather than how I look. Simple but well made and well fitting is what I’m looking for. More details inside…

One of the many fun effects of postural tachycardia syndrome (POTS) is blood pooling in the limbs and abdomen. I tried wearing waist-high compression stockings as my doctor advised, but the way they cut across my stomach hurt and exacerbated my nausea to the point I threw up more than once. Like I said, fun! So I switched to thigh-high compression stockings (jury is still out on these) and a lightweight underbust corset/waist nipper (this one from Maidenform — I heard they were more durable than Spanx and it has held up surprisingly well to everyday use). It’s worked out quite well — the smooth pressure across my abdomen is fine and I feel much better with it on — except for the fact that it’s just slightly too long, so digs into either my breasts or hips especially when I’m sitting down. Plus it’s also a little tricky to get it to play nice with bras — some it works with, some it doesn’t. Also since I’m wearing it every day I have to hand wash it every day or two since it’s so sweaty and gross out right now so I'd like to have more than one.

So I’m looking to find another corset, ideally an overbust corset so I don’t have to worry about the bra issue. Oh and I've been ignoring medical abdominal binders (hence corsetry) as it would be nice to at least pretend this is a fun thing.

I’ve read through the other corset posts here and perused many sites online, but most seem geared toward fun sexy times and/or corsets meant to be worn as outerwear. I’m looking for something simple, comfortable (no lace or scratchy bits — my skin is sensitive and I'm prone to ezcema), and inconspicuous under regular clothing. I’m also looking for something relatively lightweight as far as corsets go — I don’t need to make my waist a lot smaller, just sort of hold it in where it’s supposed to be. Do I need shoulder straps? Do I not need shoulder straps? I have no idea!

Please advise me, either with specific places to shop, or types of corsets to look for.

I need to be able to put this on and remove it easily myself, so I assume this means I need a front opening, yes? I’d love to have a nice breathable fabric, but then would I have to forgo the stretch and go with laces in the back? The laces seem like they would be the opposite of inconspicuous. Is there some kind of lacing that is less bulky than others?

Since I’m not looking to change my silhouette (though it is nice that my posture has improved!), I’m not sure I need steel boning. Is it possible to get a nice corset with plastic boning, or is that just too short-lived? If I did go with steel boning, would it be possible to, say, have the boning spaced out more so it’s not too restrictive? I don’t need to be super-cinched in, just a steady pressure on my abdomen (as with the compression stockings) that helps keep the blood circulating.

To get a good fit, should I restrict my search to custom made? Or are there ready-mades that would do the trick?

I am willing to save up and get something nice if I can be pretty sure of the quality and fit, but if there are other cheapish options like what I have but that might fit a tad better and, ideally, with an overbust option, I’d be happy to give those a try as well. Since this is an every day thing, I will probably eventually have to have a few of these to cycle through.

My measurements are right on the border between 32C and D, if that matters. Sorry for the lengthy explanation — if I’ve left out any other information you need please let me know, but otherwise thank you in advance for any help you can give!
posted by rafaella gabriela sarsaparilla to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (16 answers total) 13 users marked this as a favorite
 
I see longline body suits in my local bra shop and I love the idea of them (never in my size but I see a lot in C/D cups) - would those suit? They're basically a boned swimsuit, mostly designed to be worn as 'bridal wear'. My local shop has some amazing sales on them fairly regularly (but this is Australia). Think old fashioned vintage looks.
posted by geek anachronism at 8:47 PM on August 15, 2015


Orchard Corset gets a lot of love from people into the tight lacing scene. Most often described as comfortable and easy to "stealth corset (probably NSFW but not overtly sexual)" in. That's when you're going about your every day business with your corset hidden under your clothes so you're getting the benefit without lots of people saying "ooh look at you Miss Corsety!" A lot of the folks into that scene are very clued up on this kind of thing. You might try asking the lady who made that video through her Tumblr as she seems to be happy to answer questions on all things corsetry. Good luck!
posted by merocet at 9:00 PM on August 15, 2015 [1 favorite]


I am not one of those crazy women who can hook their own bras in the back, and yet I am still, I can say from experience, capable of lacing myself into a regular back-lacing steel-boned corset... it shouldn't be a problem unless you literally can't reach behind your back, tying is easier than hooks. Also from personal experience: It shouldn't matter, within reason, if it has scratchy bits, because you are going to be wearing a liner or a cami underneath it, because you cannot just go throw the good ones in the wash. They shouldn't need more than airing out and maybe, I dunno, couple-times-a-year dry cleaning?

More gets out of what I really know anything about, but from what little I do, you probably want something without a dramatic hip spring, which actually means that the cheaper stuff is probably more viable. (The most dramatic ones are the ones that cost hundreds or thousands of dollars.) I actually tried this for basically the same reason you are and I didn't find stealthing to be viable because it basically requires a quantity of layering that I was sweltering in, and I missed being able to bend normally pretty fast. But I still do it now and then. The OC ones are good and well-made but might be a more dramatic profile than you need.

As a general rule, my advice is that there's tons of info out there and you really need more of it than you're likely to think, because you're adding more than just a different piece of underwear, they require a lot of very specific care compared to Spanx or whatever. They don't actually do anything stupid with your internal organs and whatever with moderate use, but they aren't good summer-wear in a hot climate and you might have to modify your activities accordingly.
posted by Sequence at 10:20 PM on August 15, 2015


Best answer: You may find that plastic boning bends funny and/or doesn't spring back to the right shape after sitting - those cheap corsets are often not designed for all day wear. That said, if you have some cash and want to buy a couple of cheap corsets to try, why not do so?

If you are buying online, it's probably easier to get underbust corsets to fit than overbust, because breasts (size and where they sit) vary so much. Anything off the rack that fits my waist and hips is way too big at the bust.

Underbust is probably less obvious to external viewers than overbust, although the exact shape of the corset will affect that. Look out for the shelf that a larger bust can resemble if pressed into a corset that doesn't allow for the volume required.

Could you try trimming the too long bones in your existing corset? You can always rebind with ribbon if that's easier than using the existing fabric.

Personal anecdote: a friend bought two super cheap corsets (they actually had spiral steel boning in them - we were so surprised!) and we opened them up at the top, pulled out the bones that were too long in the first corset and replaced them with shorter bones from the second corset, so she ended up with one corset that was the right length (we trimmed the fabric back the right length and resewed the binding along the top edge to finish it nicely).

You should definitely wear a cami or something underneath the corset - this will extend its lifespan and reduce the frequency with which you need to wash it. Also, having more than one corset will help too, because you can let each one air for a full day or more between wearings.

I would look for flat lacing that slides through the eyelets easily, plus the opening (busk) at the front. If the lacing moves easily then you'll probably be able to lace yourself in - there's a specific way of lacing a corset where the lace ends up with a loop on each side in the centre of your back that you pull tight, then tie. To get into the corset, you loosen the laces, put the corset on and do up the front, then pull the loops and tie them together. If you have a lot of excess lacing, you can cut it shorter or loop it around your waist then tie it.

If you are in a position to get a corset custom made, I would encourage it. I have made my own corsets and they fit so much better than off the rack ones! But only get custom made if your weight is fairly stable - I lost 13kg and my corsets don't fit any more :( A custom made corset can also have as few or as many bones as the maker thinks will work for you.

I would stay away from the expensive fancy corsets sold by places like Honey Birdette - they're really just for bedroom wear, and probably aren't supportive enough for all day. Look for something sturdy.

Good luck in your search!
posted by eloeth-starr at 12:19 AM on August 16, 2015


If you can tell us where you are located, those of us who know makers can probably point you to someone to talk with about something custom. A custom made corset, even if you aren't going to tight-lace, is a damn sight more comfortable in my experience than one you're going to buy off the rack, and unless it's cheap (as in, a bad thing) then whatever you pay someone to make something for you will be well-worth it and IMHO comparable. You can get the exact look and fit that you want.

I'm in Atlanta, and I know two or three people here (personally know, obviously there are more than that in general) who would be able to make something beautiful and personal for you.
posted by Medieval Maven at 5:57 AM on August 16, 2015 [1 favorite]


I was very please with my experience with Orchard Corset.
posted by firei at 7:32 AM on August 16, 2015


Best answer: I'll third the recommendation of Orchard Corset, I've had really great experiences with them. Steel boned corsets hug and support you in a way that plastic never can, and they are made to last. I've had a few plastic boned corsets and the boning ripped from the casing on day one, and the boning didn't take long to warp out of shape. If you drop Orchard Corset a line with your measurements and requirements they will advise you on the most appropriate corset size and shape for your needs. They have a line of mesh corsets that would probably suit, they are supposed to be very lightweight and breathable.

You definitely need to get the right size and cut for you, but wearing my steel boned corsets feels like a hug - very supportive, and not painful. They are especially comfortable if you aren't tightlacing. The prices at Orchard Corset are very good and they often have coupons, so I would definitely recommend trying one out.
posted by dinofuzz at 7:43 AM on August 16, 2015 [1 favorite]


Response by poster: Thanks so much for all the great tips & suggestions! A couple of answers and follow-up questions to what you’ve posted (hopefully not too threadsit-y):

• eloeth-starr: a good point about weight. A medication change (and thus a weight swing) may be coming up in the next month or two, so I may look for a cheaper off-the-rack solution for now and save the custom-made option for a little later. I will continue to do research and contact people, though, so please do continue to offer suggestions for both types, everyone. I also love the idea of modifying the one I have! I will definitely give that a shot.

• I’m in NYC, but I’m open to suggestions elsewhere — this looks like a lifetime project, so it’s definitely possible I could plan a future trip around getting measured if the perfect corsetmaker lives elsewhere.

• dinofuzz — I hadn’t seen those mesh corsets at Orchard Corset! Intriguing, I may check those out. August is kind of killing me.

• For under the corset, I’d tried thin tank tops with this thing I’m wearing (plastic boning, but still relatively snug I think), but they always seemed to bunch uncomfortably. Are specially made corset liners the way to go?

• Could someone explain a bit more about the different types of boning — I guess it’s just spiral vs. flat (unless I’m missing something)? Or point me to a good resource where I can *ahem* bone up on the vocab?

• Just today I started coming across historical corsets, which I hadn’t thought to look at (mainly from the Met Museum) from the mid-1800s, and I thought some of the simpler cotton ones looked quite nice — I’m thinking these could start a conversation with a custom corsetmaker. Any recommendations either for learning more about that kind of period corsetry or makers who work in that style would be especially helpful.

Again, thanks so much for all your help so far!
posted by rafaella gabriela sarsaparilla at 12:42 PM on August 16, 2015


This may be a derail, but I have POTS too and taking Atenolol has made a big difference for me. It doesn't make the POTS go away, but it makes it manageable. I'd be a mess without it. Have you tried that medication?

Also, have you experimented with corsets to see if they help? You should probably do that before you invest in an expensive one. (Maybe buy the cheapest one you can find online, or put one together out of duct tape. There are tutorials for those online.) I've worn corsets and waist cinchers countless times as part of my thrilling drag queen lifestyle, and I can't say I've noticed a difference with my POTS. But, I wasn't wearing them specifically for that, so maybe I wasn't doing it right somehow.
posted by Ursula Hitler at 3:24 PM on August 16, 2015


Best answer: Corsets should have both spiral and flat steel boning. Spiral boning goes on the more curved seams/bone locations and the flat bones go on the straighter ones.

Coutil is what you'd want something custom to be made of (I don't know for certain but doubt that off the rack versions are made with it). It's dyeable, being cotton.

The corsets you like - mostly anyone who knows about making corsets should be able to make something like the things you linked to.
posted by Medieval Maven at 5:01 PM on August 16, 2015


Best answer: I'm a regular corset wearer (and occasional maker, but only for myself and friends).

If this is a corset you are going to wear every day, made-to-measure is a *must*. Anything else can cause discomfort and possibly harm.

I don't know your location, but it's best to seek out a maker close to you so you can have fittings in person. If that's not possible, there are some who do fittings via Skype (they mail you the unfinished corset, and then you try it on and Skype with them). Lovely Rat is one such; her work is great. Overbust corsets are a little more particular to fit than underbust ones, because everyone's bust is different. I'm in the UK and my favourite maker here is Wyte Phantom; she's a genius with fit and style.

The front fastening you want is called a busk. Look for those flat metal closures at the front. It makes getting into and out of the corset very easy; you just have to loosen the laces slightly before putting it on each time.

Different types of boning: You will want flat steel bones at the back by the laces, and spiral steel bones for most of the rest of the corset. Spiral steel is a godsend-- it will bend in any direction, but is always supportive, and doesn't get kinks like plastic. It comes in multiple widths; if your ribcage is a 32 I would say the 7mm is fine.

Other resources: the Lingerie Addict has a great blog and professional corsetmakers often contribute. Here's their beginners' guide to corsetry and their corset buying guide. I also like this post: What makes a corset comfortable?

Hope this helps!
posted by Pallas Athena at 5:43 PM on August 16, 2015 [1 favorite]


I missed that you have tried waist nippers before and they worked. My bad. Maybe I should experiment more with them myself. (Although I have crazy gut issues, so maybe not.)

I still strongly recommend trying Antenolol, though.
posted by Ursula Hitler at 6:18 PM on August 16, 2015


Hi. I asked the most recent corset question on here, and indeed I was looking for a sexytimes corset, not a medical one. However, as it happens, while we chitchatted with the staff at Dark Garden (where we wound up making our purchase), they mentioned that they also do a lot of custom medical corsetry work. Their quality seems very high, so if you want to go that route, I'd give them a call.
posted by Conrad Cornelius o'Donald o'Dell at 10:14 PM on August 16, 2015 [1 favorite]


Response by poster: Thanks so much everyone for all the great info. Very helpful! I'm going to go with finding another cheapish (definitely under $100) option for now while I continue to do additional research and hopefully get my medication sorted out (and stabilize my weight a bit), and then will take the plunge and investing in something fancier. I will report back if I learn anything beyond what you all have shared. Thanks again.

(aside to Ursula Hitler: alas, I tried a closely related beta blocker, metroprolol, and got so sick I nearly ended up in the hospital, so was told no more beta blockers for me. Still working on finding the magic med. I tend to have blood pressure on the low side of normal, so that may be why pressure garments, including corsets help, so ymmv, etc.)
posted by rafaella gabriela sarsaparilla at 7:09 PM on August 19, 2015


Response by poster: And Conrad, somehow I missed your recent post when I did my search, so thanks for pointing it out!
posted by rafaella gabriela sarsaparilla at 7:10 PM on August 19, 2015


Response by poster: Follow up! My lightweight Maidenform Flexees continues to hold up remarkably well, and while I'm not ready to invest a ton of money (I'm starting a new medication in a few days with a strong likelihood of changing my weight), I did go ahead and buy this corset from Etsy. The seller was very helpful and easy to work with, and it was inexpensive enough I didn't mind taking the plunge now. It's a bit rough since it's made from heavyweight cloth, but it's natural fibers which is a huge plus for me. It's not going to be totally invisible, but with fall coming will be less "Hey, look at me!" because layers (and is also quite warming). I think the demi-overbust is by far the best option for me — underbust just seems like it's always going to want to rub and irritate my skin, and true overbust seems like it needs proper fittings to, well, fit properly.

It's a very interesting feeling — I feel a bit like I'm wearing armor. Very sturdy! I do need to play a bit more with the lacing to get it right so I can breathe freely but have it snug where I want, but overall it's quite comfortable.

I'm also reading How to Be a Victorian by Ruth Goodman, which was mentioned in the comments of this thread. There's a bit (though not a ton) about corsets, along with some interesting context, including the fact that corsets in the 1840s and 50s were often home-made and weren't particularly complicated with most of the support coming from cords in channels rather than steel or whale boning. Perhaps when I finish getting my sewing skills up to scratch I'll try my hand at one of those. At the more modern end of the spectrum I also think corsets would make a really interesting engineering project — there are so many materials that boning could be made from, so many structural techniques to support the body. I'm going to keep my eye open for materials research that could be applied here.

For the moment I'm happy with my purchase, but do look forward to working with one of the recommended corset makers in a few months for something a little swanker. Thanks again to everyone for their advice.
posted by rafaella gabriela sarsaparilla at 2:28 PM on September 24, 2015 [1 favorite]


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