How to enjoy winter in Northern Europe?

August 23, 2013 1:54 PM

I'm heading to Europe in the thick of winter mostly as part of field work for a research degree. Amsterdam, Berlin are definite destinations. All advice I have is that winter in Northern Europe sucks hard and isn't a great time to be going. Can someone please explain why that's so apart from the cold? Can someone else explain why that's completely wrong? How could I get the most out of the experience?

I'm likely staying in AirBnB places. Also open to side trips to other cities. I will be there at least two months - November and December. Many thanks.

posted by zaebiz to Travel & Transportation (32 answers total)

It will be cold, and at other times it will be wet. If you're lucky, it will be both. On the other hand, it's the height of the cultural season, and both Amsterdam and Berlin are cities where there is plenty to see and do all through the winter.

I wouldn't worry about it. People live in these cities all year long, and they don't all collectively get depressed for months on end. Just make sure you're dressed for the weather, and keep an eye out for interesting stuff to do during wet days.
posted by Too-Ticky at 2:00 PM on August 23, 2013 [1 favorite]

Late fall and winter are the best times to have traditional Dutch and German food.
Most of the museums will be open.
I was in the NL in December and Germany in November. It was very gloomy but no snow ( though I did pack boots).
posted by brujita at 2:03 PM on August 23, 2013

Why are you letting other people determine what kind of time you're going to have? Go and enjoy yourself.
posted by xingcat at 2:04 PM on August 23, 2013

One thing is that the days are really short in nov/dec. If you're planning to go even northern to scandinavia you get maybe 6-7 hours of daylight.
posted by Tawny Owl at 2:05 PM on August 23, 2013 [1 favorite]

Absolutely terrific time to visit northern Europe. I took my son to Copenhagen in December and it was fracking brilliant.

Pay no attention. Pack appropriately and enjoy.
posted by Emperor SnooKloze at 2:06 PM on August 23, 2013

This budget traveler loves Europe in the winter, because the end-phase of washing your clothes in the hotel-room's sink is never a problem -- due to the toasty radiator, your clothes are guaranteed dry the next morning.

Also, the worst part of summer Euro-travel are the hordes of tourists, standing in line ahead of you, wherever you want to go. Winter, no crowds at all.
posted by Rash at 2:11 PM on August 23, 2013

I've lived in France and England in the winter. Not exactly Northern Europe, but for me the worst part was how early it got dark in the afternoons and how late the sun appeared in the morning. Otherwise, it was just cold. Occasionally snowy, more than occasionally rainy, but awesome because so many fewer tourists than in summer. And there is something magical about the winter light. (But that's maybe just me.)
posted by rtha at 2:13 PM on August 23, 2013 [1 favorite]

Christmas in Northern Europe is beautiful. I traveled through France and up to Denmark that time of year and could not get over how pretty everything was in the evenings all lit up. Not bright and in your face like in the US, but super classy and oh so pretty and it feels just so much different, I've done Christmas in Australia, UK, USA and Denmark/Germany and the European one is the one that felt most magical to me. The light that time of year is amazing too.

It is the best time of year to be in Europe if you ask me, all the tourists have gone home so no crowds, yes a few things are shut, but the lines at everything else are so short. Also coffee houses (not the ones Amsterdam is "famous" for but ones that sell actual coffee) no better weather for coffee houses and you are going to a part of the world that has so many great ones.

Dress warm, good boots you'll be walking a lot, lots of layers so you can adjust for varying temps and you'll be fine, my Danish SIL insists there is no such thing as bad weather just bad clothing. It was way less cold there than I find Northern Indiana/Chicago in the middle of winter. Oh and if offered mulled wine, drink it. Nothing drives away the cold like warm spiced wine, or maybe it doesn't but after a few glasses you no longer care.
posted by wwax at 2:19 PM on August 23, 2013 [2 favorites]

This isn't Europe specific information, but I've spent a couple winters in northernish regions.

Boots. Good ones. Spend money on this, or go thrifting NOW for quality used boots. Think sorrel or similar ilk. With good boots, you'll fare better.

Personally, i would make a game out of food and drink; I would ask the locals their favorite thing to eat or drink when it gets that cold. You might find some new favorite comfort foods and some tasty drinks if that's you're speed.
posted by furnace.heart at 2:24 PM on August 23, 2013

I guess it depends on what you are used to, but my impression is that Northern Europe is not nearly as cold as you'd imagine based on the latitude. Being on the Western side of the continent mediates the weather nicely.

Check out the climate data on wikipedia for the cities you are thinking of visiting; I think you'll find that it won't be nearly as bad as you expect. (But I am from the midwestern US, which might as well be Siberia despite it's relatively southern latitude, so maybe I'm much more acclimated to cold expectations.)
posted by gjc at 2:29 PM on August 23, 2013 [2 favorites]

It's not really how cold it is, but that it's cold and wet and windy, and often wet and windy for days at a time. Plus when you're working it means you drive to work in the dark, spend all day under artificial lights and then drive home in the dark - that's why I hate winter in the UK. But this isn't necessarily the same when touristing - if you're here in December then you get twinkley Christmas lights! And Christmas Markets! And fireworks in November! And the best weather for stews and soups. It's not all bad, but make sure you have appropriate clothes for the weather, whatever it turns out to be.
posted by kadia_a at 2:57 PM on August 23, 2013 [2 favorites]

One of my favourite trips ever was to Europe for a month in January. I went as far north as Sweden, as far south as Barcelona. There are hardly any tourists so it's a great time to visit cultural institutions, wander cities, stop in pubs or little restaurants to warm up. Just make sure you have a decent coat and decent shoes/boots.
posted by Cuke at 3:07 PM on August 23, 2013

This is probably more relevant for Amsterdam -- no idea what Berlin winters are like. I spent a week just across the North Sea from the Netherlands in the UK last December and, after checking the weather, packed what I would pack for those temperatures in the US northeast (long pants, some wool skirts, sweaters, a winter coat). Bad call: the damp really cut through my clothes in a way it just doesn't in New England. Buying a couple of pairs of fleece tights from Boots saved my trip, but was pricey. So: bring WARM long underclothes. I'm not sure what the availability of long underwear is in Australia (if your profile location is correct), but it's worth going to some lengths to get something good. If you're staying in apartments, it might not be much warmer inside than out if you end up in an older building, so bring a couple of sets of long underwear and socks so that you can sleep in them if you need to.

Boots or other waterproof shoes are also a good suggestion. Also, beer. If you plan ahead for the weather, you'll have a great time!
posted by oinopaponton at 3:08 PM on August 23, 2013

I live in NYC and the winters here are cold and dark and wet. Much like winters elsewhere in the world. But I think a key difference between NYC and large European cities and other cities of the world is that it is a walking city. You will spend at the VERY minimum 30 minutes walking outdoors every day--too/from the subway, to get groceries, whatever. So here (and likely the cities you will be in) you have to actually DEAL with the weather. Most other cities (especially in the US) you maybe have to be outside for the 30 seconds it takes to get to or from your heated car from whatever other climate controlled environment you live and work in. When people come visit me in NYC in the winter, they are all 'oh our weather is the same right now, I'm not worried about it' then die when they get here. Same applies to the summer here. So will you moving from car culture to walking culture? Because that makes a huge difference.
posted by greta simone at 3:10 PM on August 23, 2013 [2 favorites]

(1) Most of northern Europe is further from the equator than the northern US or Australia, which means that days are short. (2) It's often relatively warm compared to, say, the Eastern Seaboard, which means precipitation (which there will be a lot of) is rain rather than snow.

So it's a little gloomy and a little damp. Bring sturdy boots and a warm, waterproof down jacket or something. You'll be fine.
posted by caek at 3:23 PM on August 23, 2013

Assuming you're Australian from other poster comments? Me too, and it is colder than anything I was used to but not so much that its a big deal. Colder places tend to be better set up for the cold than aust, ime- good insulation, heating always on. The darkness does suck a bit. But it's not a terrible time to go- it's just that April/May (few crowds, lovely weather) is so much lovelier. People emerge in the evenings, everything is open and the days are long and sunny. I went to northern Scotland in February and the downside was mostly just that it rained so much that we didn't want to do much walking. So it's just annoying in those ordinary ways- nothing terrible, and with some perks as others have pointed out.
posted by jojobobo at 3:27 PM on August 23, 2013

I love Northern Europe in the cold, wet, dark winter. I think it's cozy, and I find it makes the cabin-feverish locals a little more chatty.

Do watch for weird holiday schedules for public transportation, as December is littered in some places with saints' days and other aberrations in normal schedules. Keep a sharp eye out for Christmas markets, seasonal food/drink, and wintertime traditions. Enjoy un-cramped tourist attractions.

And do dress in layers. I found most of Northern Europe overheated indoors, so that coming inside was like a wooly striptease to get down to a comfortable amount of clothes.
posted by Lyn Never at 3:27 PM on August 23, 2013

Either of those cities will have so much great stuff going on at that time of year, and very few tourists. Good boots (Sorel are a good suggestion), warm clothes , a waterproof and an umbrella, hat, scarf, and gloves, and you'll be fine. Hats and scarves are also easily shed when you get indoors, which is useful.

One thing that I find makes a really big difference is a fine merino t-shirt or camisole (as appropriate) worn as a base layer. Icebreaker make good ones, they aren't cheap but look out for sales. They last really well and you'll be amazed what a difference they make.
posted by tardigrade at 3:30 PM on August 23, 2013

Music!! Do you like classical music? Opera? Plays? There's so many concerts and performances in the winter! And Amsterdam and Berlin have two of the best orchestras in the world (according to this from Gramaphone in 2008, they have the best two orchestras in the world). One of the reasons I like going to concerts is because listening to music becomes a communal experience. When the weather outside is dreadful, concert halls become even more cosy.

It will be cold, but mostly the big problem is that it is going to get dark really early in the evening and stay dark until really late. Find a comfy coffee shop and become a regular there. Bring good boots and synthetic long underwear (not cotton! and silk is even better than synthetic). Go to the Christmas markets and drink spiced wine. Ask around Metafilter IRL and see if you can set up a meet-up; I know there are Mefites in Berlin, and I imagine there are Mefites in Amsterdam as well. Check out the Toytown website for expat meet-ups in Berlin if that's your kind of thing. Or go to a Stammtisch of some kind.
posted by colfax at 4:25 PM on August 23, 2013

No no no. Winter in Northern Europe is awesome! The snow is beautiful (if you get some, and the last couple of years Berlin has had a fair bit). Outdoor ice skating is lovely. You can do trips up into the mountains and ski. The lights of the city on frost and snow are beautiful. Christmas markets! Oh my god, Christmas markets! Or even just crepe sellers and chestnut or sugared almond sellers in the streets! There are warm toasty Christmassy smells and little paper twists full of hot goodies to keep your hands warm, and delicious things, and steam around your face...

And in your apartment you will be warm because everyone has double glazing and good insulation. You can snuggle up in your goosedown duvet and have candlelit breakfasts as the sun is rising, and cuddle up with hot chocolates in the evening.

The clothes sold in most shops there are perfectly appropriate for the weather, so budget for a nice down jacket and good boots, if you are from a place where these things are not so easy to come by. Get a sturdy umbrella for snow and ice-rain, so that you can get around between subway stops, if that's how you are travelling. Make sure your shoes have good grip for ice.

And get out into the forests in the weekend to hike or cross-country ski, and enjoy the beautiful snow and ice on the trees. The light is short, but has a special quality, and the air is somehow crisp and hushed.

The only bad thing about winter in Europe is when you are in places where it doesn't snow, and you just get rain and cold and wind. But even then you can make it cosy inside. And it sounds like your itinerary is still a bit flexible, so aim for the snowy parts!
posted by lollusc at 6:52 PM on August 23, 2013 [2 favorites]

On preview, if you are Australian, definitely wait until you get to Europe to buy shoes. Even our more expensive, thick soled shoes are less warm than the budget shoes sold in Northern Europe. My feet were so cold in Europe (on stone floors when sight-seeing in castles and cathedrals, on snow and ice outside) even with two layers of socks, until I bought some cheap European boots, and then they were fine.
posted by lollusc at 6:55 PM on August 23, 2013 [1 favorite]

As others said, Christmastime is wonderful in Berlin because of the markets and general air of festivity. I would recommend bringing a light for seasonal affective disorder if you think there's any chance dark, cloudy short days might bother you. Waking up with one of those lights can really help improve your mood. For me, the darkness was the hard part of being in Northern Europe in the winter.
posted by three_red_balloons at 9:06 PM on August 23, 2013

In Amsterdam, it's not the cold, it's the sometimes-relentless drizzly rain combined with wind that makes umbrellas useless. Also, as little as eight hours sunlight on some days.

But it's not horrible. You don't need a bunch of special gear or anything. Dress in layers, because buildings are usually overheated. Carry a decent umbrella for the non-windy days. If you have a fussy hairstyle, give it up for something that can handle the humidity.

If you're in Amsterdam in late November, you can watch the Sinterklaas arrival parade on the canals. Eat fresh, hot oliebollen from a stand. Eat erwtensoep and stamppot. Visit the museums. Cycle with the rain blowing in your face.
posted by neushoorn at 9:27 PM on August 23, 2013

How could I get the most out of the experience?

Seconding neushoorn's advice to watch the Sinterklaas parade as well as all the goofy Zwarte Piet commercials on Dutch television around that time.

Go ice skating! In Amsterdam there's a running track iced over in winter for speedy skating without the running-into-small-children of regular rinks.

Also, gluhwein. I have fond memories of my first sample at an outdoor market in Brussels.
posted by FiveSecondRule at 10:47 PM on August 23, 2013

Short days. Not that cold (compared to the northeastern US). I'm more of a night person so I actually liked it on some level. Stockholm at night time in the winter is really pretty.
posted by pravit at 10:56 PM on August 23, 2013

Yeah, I spent last January in Germany and a lot of people sighed and said, "It's too bad you're not going in the summer when the westher's nicer and there's more to do." But then we got there and everything looked snowy and magical, plus we effectively had all of the museums to ourselves!

And that was in January, one of the deadest months. If you're there in the leadup to Christmas, you're bound to have an even better time! I'm jealous but so excited for you.
posted by estlin at 7:13 AM on August 24, 2013

It's not the cold, it's the damp. BRING WOOL. It took me three years in England to figure this out (I lived in Canada previously, so it's not like I was a stranger to cold). Merino long underwear is a godsend. Probably cheaper at your end than in northern Europe. Also, a good *wool* overcoat. Down is relatively powerless against damp.

Depending on how far north you are, the suddenness of the loss of light in late autumn can be disorienting. Do you have a light box/lightbook for combating SAD? It might be worth investing in. Again, probably cheaper to buy one at home and bring it along.

Seconding what others have said about how nice it can be in the cold dark winter. People's hunkering instincts flare up and the weather provides an excuse for huddling together in bright, warm, cozy, cheerful spaces with things like open fires, live music and mulled this and that. And it's really lovely spending Christmas in countries that bring 1000+ years of tradition to the holidays.
posted by stuck on an island at 9:41 AM on August 24, 2013

November in Europe is really not that cold. December can be. Amsterdam would be nice in the winter though - if you are lucky the canals will freeze.

I'm an Australian living in London and I've spent a few Christmases in Berlin but have still had lots of fun wandering around doing touristy stuff. I agree with the above that the shorter daylight hours can be a problem but its still fine. I think its more of an adventure and the cold and snow adds to the novelty. I've ridden bikes around the Netherlands in -7C days to go ice-skating on the frozen lakes. its awesome

I think the "layers" for clothing thing is wrong. What you need is one big thick warm coat that you can take off when you go inside. The problem with layers is that you have to take off a whole bunch whenever you go inside.
posted by mary8nne at 10:19 AM on August 24, 2013 [1 favorite]

thermal underlayers and thick wool socks will be your friends.
posted by srboisvert at 10:45 AM on August 24, 2013

Buying your warm clothes in Europe is a pretty clever idea because, you know, the clothes are like made for that weather. And that weather can be viciously cold: I lived in NYC and Canada and I like to think I'm unimpressed by anything less than arctic cold, but the thing is the damp. If you're unlucky you'll have some day when you go out and it feels like fog is cutting you. It's horrible.

But they make clothes for that. And scarves are nice.

And the food at that time of year can be pretty great, yes. And Christmas in Berlin is A-OK, the Christmas-marts are awesome (there are many and each has a little its own vibe). And if you stay for New Years you'll see fireworks going off on the street in a way you have never ever ever ever seen before. Unless you've seen people crowding out into every street and setting off great piles of roman candles and bottle rockets and firecrackers for an hour.

For the light gloom I take Vit. D supplements, I get them at the drug store (apothem) and it helps me a lot.
posted by From Bklyn at 12:47 PM on August 24, 2013

I live in Alaska, much like northern Europe. Our early winters on the coast are rainy and dark. Sun comes up around 9am, goes down around 3:30pm during our darkest time and the rainclouds (SE AK is a rainforest) means the daylight you get can be super gloomy. The key to keeping a happy attitude during Oct/Nov/Dec is to make sure you get outside during the sunlight every day, even if it is raining. I also find that skating at a large, well-lit indoor rink can give a little of that feeling of being outside, too. Learn to love skiing, both downhill and XC. Nothing makes me feel uplifted like spending a few hours on the slopes.

I'm not saying you don't get a little depressed - it's hard not to during the gloomy months. A lot of SE Alaskan's take a vacation during this time. Best thing about this time? Snuggling on the couch while it's cold and raining outside and it's toasty warm inside.

Also, wool socks. Nothing better.
posted by Foam Pants at 2:36 AM on August 25, 2013

I went to Amsterdam last January. It did feel cold, but as I live in London and grew up in a part of the UK that is very cold and rainy, it didn't feel exceptionally cold to me. I took a pair of (fake) fur-lined boots and insulated gloves, as I wanted to take photos without getting cold hands, and a knitted hat that covered my ears. I only had the wool duffel coat that I wore in London then, but if I were to go back I'd wear a padded jacket or parka type thing.

The thing with some European cities, particularly Amsterdam and more recently Tallinn, is that they get absolutely infested with stag parties as the weather gets warmer. (I went to Tallinn in March last year when it was just cold enough to discourage drinking tourism.) January felt quiet and more amenable to me travelling alone than a summer weekend might. I quite like a little bit of gloom and being able to warm up in coffee shops as well.
posted by mippy at 3:23 AM on August 27, 2013