Help me hack my cats
May 9, 2013 4:32 PM Subscribe
The Angrycat household is getting a rescue kitten, which brings the total cat population in said household to three, and, I'm aware, pushes me into cat lady land. Whatever. There are more important cat issues at stake.
So, here is the cast, all with up to date shots and recent examinations:
Cat A: A, well, regular-sized house cat, age maybe eight, not really into jumping, but very strong. Likes to chase Cat B but never inflicts damage (and sometime Cat B chases Cat A, so it's kind of a draw). A is fiercely jealous and sometime freaks out at a drop of a hat. If I gently shove her out of my wheelchair seat? FREAKOUT. But it's only dramatic hissing unless I try to do something to her (clip her claws, for example) that she doesn't want. She is something of a coward in that all Cat B has to do is stare at her long enough for Cat A to get weirded out. Cat A will eat anything and seem pleased by it (see a profile picture of her after my pizza).
Cat B: Small, skinny, on kidney failure watch, fifteen years, on the frail side. She loves everybody and everything. She has food allergies (so she is kept on a limited diet) but that doesn't stop her from eating dead basil leaves and random bits of fluff on the floor. I need to monitor her carefully to make sure she doesn't eat something that will make her barf, as weight loss is the big battle with her.
Cat C. Eleven week old male kitten friend describes as "rambunctious." Eats a baby cat dry and wet food.
My schedule: Working obnoxious hours for three days a week, off for four.
The premises: Large apartment, but only one room could be used to sequester a cat.
The kitten is arriving in about two weeks. I am trying to figure out how do I feed a herd of cats two separate diets? That's the main worry. The other worry is the reaction of Cat A to Cat C. I can sequester Cat A -- but is that going to make her hate Cat C? Cat A holds grudges, I shit you not.
The main concern is the food, although I do want to take seriously the possibility of violent cat grudges that lead to cat harm.
Thanks guys
So, here is the cast, all with up to date shots and recent examinations:
Cat A: A, well, regular-sized house cat, age maybe eight, not really into jumping, but very strong. Likes to chase Cat B but never inflicts damage (and sometime Cat B chases Cat A, so it's kind of a draw). A is fiercely jealous and sometime freaks out at a drop of a hat. If I gently shove her out of my wheelchair seat? FREAKOUT. But it's only dramatic hissing unless I try to do something to her (clip her claws, for example) that she doesn't want. She is something of a coward in that all Cat B has to do is stare at her long enough for Cat A to get weirded out. Cat A will eat anything and seem pleased by it (see a profile picture of her after my pizza).
Cat B: Small, skinny, on kidney failure watch, fifteen years, on the frail side. She loves everybody and everything. She has food allergies (so she is kept on a limited diet) but that doesn't stop her from eating dead basil leaves and random bits of fluff on the floor. I need to monitor her carefully to make sure she doesn't eat something that will make her barf, as weight loss is the big battle with her.
Cat C. Eleven week old male kitten friend describes as "rambunctious." Eats a baby cat dry and wet food.
My schedule: Working obnoxious hours for three days a week, off for four.
The premises: Large apartment, but only one room could be used to sequester a cat.
The kitten is arriving in about two weeks. I am trying to figure out how do I feed a herd of cats two separate diets? That's the main worry. The other worry is the reaction of Cat A to Cat C. I can sequester Cat A -- but is that going to make her hate Cat C? Cat A holds grudges, I shit you not.
The main concern is the food, although I do want to take seriously the possibility of violent cat grudges that lead to cat harm.
Thanks guys
Do the current two cats have specific spots you feed them out of specific bowls/plates? That's what we do with our three and no one eats each others' food although one has been on a special diet on and off for years. Everyone gets fed at the same time but they all have learned which spot is theirs. Mama cat (age 13) eats a few feet away from her greedy 12 year old sons because she eats slower and they'd steal her food if we didn't stare sternly and oversee the proceedings.
posted by leslies at 4:38 PM on May 9, 2013
posted by leslies at 4:38 PM on May 9, 2013
I highly suggest that you sequester Cat C when he first arrives. You need to get Cat A used to the smell of Cat C before Cat C joins the party. Here's what to do for introductions:
(1) While Cat C is in sequestration, rub a towel on Cat C and leave it somewhere where Cat A can thoroughly investigate it. Do the same to Cat A, and leave that towel in Cat C's room. Renew the smell of each towel once per day, and continue this for up to one week, at least 3 or 4 days.
(2) Next, put Cat C in a carrier and bring the carrier into Cat A's area, and see what happens; if Cat A gets really aggressive, take Cat C back to sequestration. Continue to introduce the two, once per day, in this fashion until Cat A isn't getting aggressive anymore. Then, open the carrier and let Cat C enter Cat A's area at his leisure.
This will eliminate your diet issues, at least in the short term. After introductions, I love the idea of a special box with a kitten-sized hole. Just make sure the kitten understands how to get in!
posted by sevensnowflakes at 4:59 PM on May 9, 2013 [3 favorites]
(1) While Cat C is in sequestration, rub a towel on Cat C and leave it somewhere where Cat A can thoroughly investigate it. Do the same to Cat A, and leave that towel in Cat C's room. Renew the smell of each towel once per day, and continue this for up to one week, at least 3 or 4 days.
(2) Next, put Cat C in a carrier and bring the carrier into Cat A's area, and see what happens; if Cat A gets really aggressive, take Cat C back to sequestration. Continue to introduce the two, once per day, in this fashion until Cat A isn't getting aggressive anymore. Then, open the carrier and let Cat C enter Cat A's area at his leisure.
This will eliminate your diet issues, at least in the short term. After introductions, I love the idea of a special box with a kitten-sized hole. Just make sure the kitten understands how to get in!
posted by sevensnowflakes at 4:59 PM on May 9, 2013 [3 favorites]
The rule is to sequester the new guy; keep C in the room, not A. C doesn't know the apartment yet and won't miss the rest of it, but if you confine A, she'll want out and you'll never hear the end of it.
For the introduction process, I strongly recommend a baby gate, so A and C can see and smell each other and be relatively safe from fighting. Introduce gate time, little by little, once both cats can sniff each other on either side of the door without growling or hissing. Once they've had a few days' worth of calm gate time, try letting C out.
(If you do the gate thing, get two and stack them, or get a tall one and add a little height with some cardboard or a curtain or something. We're in the process of introducing a new cat, and she easily jumped over the 44" gate we put in.)
Give A some extra attention throughout the day while she's getting used to C, so she knows you're on her side and C won't usurp her position.
After the cats get acquainted, feed C on top of a table or desk if you have one. C's young and a good jumper. A might jump up there if she wants to, but if you feed them at the same time she'll likely get distracted by her own food.
posted by Metroid Baby at 5:05 PM on May 9, 2013 [1 favorite]
For the introduction process, I strongly recommend a baby gate, so A and C can see and smell each other and be relatively safe from fighting. Introduce gate time, little by little, once both cats can sniff each other on either side of the door without growling or hissing. Once they've had a few days' worth of calm gate time, try letting C out.
(If you do the gate thing, get two and stack them, or get a tall one and add a little height with some cardboard or a curtain or something. We're in the process of introducing a new cat, and she easily jumped over the 44" gate we put in.)
Give A some extra attention throughout the day while she's getting used to C, so she knows you're on her side and C won't usurp her position.
After the cats get acquainted, feed C on top of a table or desk if you have one. C's young and a good jumper. A might jump up there if she wants to, but if you feed them at the same time she'll likely get distracted by her own food.
posted by Metroid Baby at 5:05 PM on May 9, 2013 [1 favorite]
The kitten is arriving in about two weeks. I am trying to figure out how do I feed a herd of cats two separate diets? That's the main worry. The other worry is the reaction of Cat A to Cat C. I can sequester Cat A -- but is that going to make her hate Cat C? Cat A holds grudges, I shit you not.
It could make Cat A really angry, or she could love it! We have three in my household as well, and the oldest is also quite capable of holding a grudge. I second all the tips given by sevensnowflakes. Do the cat carrier thing, see how your cats react and make changes accordingly. Our oldest cat, after the introduction of a kitten a year ago, tends to now sequester himself away from the other two. He actually seems happier now that he can hide and ignore the others.
I hope your situation works out with as little catlateral damage as possible. :)
posted by nohaybanda at 5:11 PM on May 9, 2013
It could make Cat A really angry, or she could love it! We have three in my household as well, and the oldest is also quite capable of holding a grudge. I second all the tips given by sevensnowflakes. Do the cat carrier thing, see how your cats react and make changes accordingly. Our oldest cat, after the introduction of a kitten a year ago, tends to now sequester himself away from the other two. He actually seems happier now that he can hide and ignore the others.
I hope your situation works out with as little catlateral damage as possible. :)
posted by nohaybanda at 5:11 PM on May 9, 2013
There are also plans out there for RFID chip cat feeder boxes. Sort of like the whisker idea, but more permanent, as many guidelines suggest kitten food for....longer.
So you could make the kitten a chip box.
As for the isolation question, I would suggest putting the new boy in the room alone and letting the established cats get to know him under the door for a week or so. Until they stop freaking out.
posted by bilabial at 6:59 PM on May 9, 2013 [1 favorite]
So you could make the kitten a chip box.
As for the isolation question, I would suggest putting the new boy in the room alone and letting the established cats get to know him under the door for a week or so. Until they stop freaking out.
posted by bilabial at 6:59 PM on May 9, 2013 [1 favorite]
Ask your vet for Feliway - it's a plug-in scent thingy, but instead of emitting "country breeze" smell it emits cat pheromones. People can't smell it, but the cats can, and they all think it smells like them... which helps everyone relax and get along and eases stress.
It helped a lot when we were cat-sitting (in our home, for several weeks) my in-law's old grouchy cat and we brought home two 3mo old kittens halfway through his stay. Poor Sid. By the end of his visit they were sleeping on him in his basket though (he even had his arms wrapped around one)! =) (Sadly, this picture - with sid - is not available to me at the moment, so this one will have to do!)
posted by jrobin276 at 8:11 PM on May 9, 2013
It helped a lot when we were cat-sitting (in our home, for several weeks) my in-law's old grouchy cat and we brought home two 3mo old kittens halfway through his stay. Poor Sid. By the end of his visit they were sleeping on him in his basket though (he even had his arms wrapped around one)! =) (Sadly, this picture - with sid - is not available to me at the moment, so this one will have to do!)
posted by jrobin276 at 8:11 PM on May 9, 2013
We need headshots for your cast!
posted by Napoleonic Terrier at 8:16 PM on May 9, 2013 [3 favorites]
posted by Napoleonic Terrier at 8:16 PM on May 9, 2013 [3 favorites]
FYI - cat lady status is actually calculated via cats per square foot. A good rule of thumb is about 2-3 cats per 1000sq ft. Unless you're in New York.
posted by St. Peepsburg at 9:15 PM on May 9, 2013 [3 favorites]
posted by St. Peepsburg at 9:15 PM on May 9, 2013 [3 favorites]
Winna's idea is pure genius. To make more specific recommendations, I'm going to need to see some cat photos.
posted by orrnyereg at 9:16 PM on May 9, 2013
posted by orrnyereg at 9:16 PM on May 9, 2013
Oh boy, this is 99% my cat situation! I have (A) 2yo male aggressive eat-all-the-food Buddy, (B) 17yo frail and gets intimidated when other cats come sniffing at her food Shasta, and (C) will eat food if it's left out and likes to lurk while others are eating Patches.
The solution in our household is to put Shasta in her own room, close the door, and feed her - put Patches in her own room, close the door, and feed her - while feeding Buddy (the most aggressive one) in a third room or the hallway. This does require a bit of policing, but it's really the only effective method. As much as you scold/spray bottle cats who eat food they're not supposed to, the little monsters just don't get it.
Barring three separate rooms, you could use bathrooms/hallways with separation. Barring that, I really do think you should just camp out in front of Fragile Lil' Kitten to shoo the other cats away if they come sniffing around.
Other tips:
* feed Big Aggro Cat first, and a lot, so s/he gets sleepy and complacent, then feed frail and young cats
* feed them all the same food (doesn't work for our cats bc of dietary restrictions for Shasta)
posted by wintersonata9 at 9:22 PM on May 9, 2013
The solution in our household is to put Shasta in her own room, close the door, and feed her - put Patches in her own room, close the door, and feed her - while feeding Buddy (the most aggressive one) in a third room or the hallway. This does require a bit of policing, but it's really the only effective method. As much as you scold/spray bottle cats who eat food they're not supposed to, the little monsters just don't get it.
Barring three separate rooms, you could use bathrooms/hallways with separation. Barring that, I really do think you should just camp out in front of Fragile Lil' Kitten to shoo the other cats away if they come sniffing around.
Other tips:
* feed Big Aggro Cat first, and a lot, so s/he gets sleepy and complacent, then feed frail and young cats
* feed them all the same food (doesn't work for our cats bc of dietary restrictions for Shasta)
posted by wintersonata9 at 9:22 PM on May 9, 2013
Response by poster: THANKS EVERYBODY so many good ideas.
Pictures (I exploit my cats as props for my blog):
Cat A (freaking out because I have committed the sin of picking her up when she doesn't want it)
Cat B (scroll past the rant)
Will post a picture of Cinder (the kitten, cat C) when he makes his rambunctious entrance into the household
posted by angrycat at 3:35 AM on May 10, 2013
Pictures (I exploit my cats as props for my blog):
Cat A (freaking out because I have committed the sin of picking her up when she doesn't want it)
Cat B (scroll past the rant)
Will post a picture of Cinder (the kitten, cat C) when he makes his rambunctious entrance into the household
posted by angrycat at 3:35 AM on May 10, 2013
Another solution is to find a food that fits all their diets -- you probably only need it for like 6-9 months, so even if it's a pricier food, it might be worth avoiding the hassle of keeping cats and foods separate. We free-feed, so even taking it up for a while makes our cats crazy beasts. We found that our pet store had a couple of high-end cat foods that are high protein and specifically listed for both adults and kittens -- you'd have to check about the ingredients that affect your elderly/sickly cat, but there are so many options these days that I bet you could find one.
Good luck. cute cats!
posted by acm at 7:09 AM on May 10, 2013
Good luck. cute cats!
posted by acm at 7:09 AM on May 10, 2013
Also, i agree that Cat Lady (we say Crazy Cat Person) is calculated by some complex equation involving both square footage and human occupancy (that is, more humans allows for an extra cat or two). For a couple in a house, I think the trouble starts at 4; I imagine 3 is risky if you're single, but then you're rescuing a kitten and have one cat of very advanced age, so you can be grandfathered. ;)
You'll clearly have to sequester cat C for a while at the beginning anyway, and keep an eye on his interactions with A (mutual fighting possible, but you might be surprised by maternal interactions as well) and B (could over-play and tax resources). Most folks say female cats rule the roost, but we have a young male kitten who took control of the house right away (at about 3.5 months) despite two feisty females already in residence, so it obviously depends on personality. I'd bet A stays on top, but who knows...
posted by acm at 7:14 AM on May 10, 2013
You'll clearly have to sequester cat C for a while at the beginning anyway, and keep an eye on his interactions with A (mutual fighting possible, but you might be surprised by maternal interactions as well) and B (could over-play and tax resources). Most folks say female cats rule the roost, but we have a young male kitten who took control of the house right away (at about 3.5 months) despite two feisty females already in residence, so it obviously depends on personality. I'd bet A stays on top, but who knows...
posted by acm at 7:14 AM on May 10, 2013
This thread is closed to new comments.
Would that work until the baby cat goes on adult food?
posted by winna at 4:36 PM on May 9, 2013 [4 favorites]