I know it's always greener over there...
May 3, 2013 5:13 PM Subscribe
So, tell me about grass.
Last July, big diggers came and dug up significant portions of our yard to install a new sewer connection. They planted (well, sort of sprayed on, actually) new grass over the areas they had dug up, and by the time the snow fell it looked like it had taken root.
It lied.
Now that it's spring I have huge swaths of gross, packed-down dirt in my front, side and back yards. This weekend I need to start sorting out how I'm going to turn this back into lawn, but I (despite reading a lot on the internet) I have no idea how to go about doing this.
Hiring a service is not an option. Buying sod is really not an option either (I'd like to, but I have no idea where I might buy sod.)
How do we, busy, somewhat lazy people make the grass grow in our messed up yard in Maine?
Last July, big diggers came and dug up significant portions of our yard to install a new sewer connection. They planted (well, sort of sprayed on, actually) new grass over the areas they had dug up, and by the time the snow fell it looked like it had taken root.
It lied.
Now that it's spring I have huge swaths of gross, packed-down dirt in my front, side and back yards. This weekend I need to start sorting out how I'm going to turn this back into lawn, but I (despite reading a lot on the internet) I have no idea how to go about doing this.
Hiring a service is not an option. Buying sod is really not an option either (I'd like to, but I have no idea where I might buy sod.)
How do we, busy, somewhat lazy people make the grass grow in our messed up yard in Maine?
If it were me, I'd go out there with a hard rake and scratch it all up, then throw down some sort of fescue mix. And then you have to stay off of it and water it regularly. Obviously don't mow for a while.
Then, I'd get some bag of organic fertilizer in about a month (hoping we have June rains) and sprinkle that on. Grass likes nitrogen heavy fertilizer.
And I'd also be calling those diggers back and griping about how they messed up my lawn.
You can also broadcast seed in the fall, right after Indian Summer (aka second couple weeks of September), to fill in the blanks. But yeah, you can't really walk on it or do much until it's established.
Call the County Extension office and ask them if you need more tips.
posted by Marie Mon Dieu at 5:33 PM on May 3, 2013 [1 favorite]
Then, I'd get some bag of organic fertilizer in about a month (hoping we have June rains) and sprinkle that on. Grass likes nitrogen heavy fertilizer.
And I'd also be calling those diggers back and griping about how they messed up my lawn.
You can also broadcast seed in the fall, right after Indian Summer (aka second couple weeks of September), to fill in the blanks. But yeah, you can't really walk on it or do much until it's established.
Call the County Extension office and ask them if you need more tips.
posted by Marie Mon Dieu at 5:33 PM on May 3, 2013 [1 favorite]
Some of these guys just plant ryegrass for quick growth to stabilize the soil. Unfortunately, ryegrass is an annual and will not come back after winter.
posted by 445supermag at 5:41 PM on May 3, 2013
posted by 445supermag at 5:41 PM on May 3, 2013
When they dig and fill back in, sometimes the dirt that ends up on top isn't topsoil. It may not be the greatest stuff for growing anything in, in which case working in a bit of compost can help. At the very least, loosen areas of compacted soil with some sort of rake or cultivator.
The 'regular watering' part is critical for the first couple of weeks -- like, multiple light waterings per day unless the weather is damp. The germinating seeds and very young plants can easily shrivel and die if they're allowed to dry out in warm weather, which can happen very quickly. Grass grows best when the weather is rather cool, so don't wait to get it started.
posted by jon1270 at 5:47 PM on May 3, 2013
The 'regular watering' part is critical for the first couple of weeks -- like, multiple light waterings per day unless the weather is damp. The germinating seeds and very young plants can easily shrivel and die if they're allowed to dry out in warm weather, which can happen very quickly. Grass grows best when the weather is rather cool, so don't wait to get it started.
posted by jon1270 at 5:47 PM on May 3, 2013
Let me offer out an alternative: mix up some clover with your fescue. If you're OK with the slightly-pebbly texture of the clover leaves mixed in with the grass, you will be rewarded with the thickest, insanely awesome lawn of all time. As a bonus, the clover spreads via rhizomes so it will get into the bare parts. As a bigger bonus, it will fix nitrogen in the soil to feed the grass. You probably won't ever have to fertilize it again.
The super colossal bonus is that clover seed - I used Dutch White clover - is dirt cheap. The seeds are tiny - think poppy-seed-sized - and a 5lb sack from the local farmer's co-op cost me next to nothing. I sowed it with a small hand-held broadcast spreader late last summer and just basically let it go. The lawn is out-of-control healthy, and I keep it mowed so that the clover blooms don't become too terribly obvious. It's my lasting legacy, hopefully, to whoever buys the place: a self-feeding, weedfree lawn that propagates itself for the most part.
posted by jquinby at 5:51 PM on May 3, 2013 [5 favorites]
The super colossal bonus is that clover seed - I used Dutch White clover - is dirt cheap. The seeds are tiny - think poppy-seed-sized - and a 5lb sack from the local farmer's co-op cost me next to nothing. I sowed it with a small hand-held broadcast spreader late last summer and just basically let it go. The lawn is out-of-control healthy, and I keep it mowed so that the clover blooms don't become too terribly obvious. It's my lasting legacy, hopefully, to whoever buys the place: a self-feeding, weedfree lawn that propagates itself for the most part.
posted by jquinby at 5:51 PM on May 3, 2013 [5 favorites]
Sometimes there are people who own rototillers who will use them on your yard for a small amount of money. It'll churn up the soil to a depth of 6 inches or so, and it's excellent for planting nearly anything. (And a lot easier than doing it yourself.) Look at phone poles where folks are in the habit of posting ads (you know the kind) and likely you'll see such an ad. (Or the bulletin board at the nearest laundromat, or on Craigslist etc.)
40 years ago, my brother used to do that as a summer job when he was in high school.
posted by Chocolate Pickle at 7:12 PM on May 3, 2013 [1 favorite]
40 years ago, my brother used to do that as a summer job when he was in high school.
posted by Chocolate Pickle at 7:12 PM on May 3, 2013 [1 favorite]
You can buy sod at most nurseries and garden centers.
If the soil is really packed down and you have a small area, grab some bags of topsoil, spread it out, and then press down the sod on top. Alternatively, you could rake some seed into the topsoil.
Just tossing seed on top of what you have now won't get you a good germination rate. You need more topsoil, some tilling, aeration, etc. -- something that will ensure the seeds will be mixed in with some soil.
Then you need to keep it watered, twice a day at least if it is dry. Some people mulch lightly with straw to slow evaporation. You can't slack on the watering, though! You need to make sure the roots get established, or it will die really quickly.
Oh, and if you apply seed don't put any pre-emergent down, or fertilizer that contains pre-emergent.
posted by Ostara at 11:00 PM on May 3, 2013
If the soil is really packed down and you have a small area, grab some bags of topsoil, spread it out, and then press down the sod on top. Alternatively, you could rake some seed into the topsoil.
Just tossing seed on top of what you have now won't get you a good germination rate. You need more topsoil, some tilling, aeration, etc. -- something that will ensure the seeds will be mixed in with some soil.
Then you need to keep it watered, twice a day at least if it is dry. Some people mulch lightly with straw to slow evaporation. You can't slack on the watering, though! You need to make sure the roots get established, or it will die really quickly.
Oh, and if you apply seed don't put any pre-emergent down, or fertilizer that contains pre-emergent.
posted by Ostara at 11:00 PM on May 3, 2013
As a previous Professional Landscaper, here's my $0.02.
Sod is the hardest and most expensive way to do it. The ONLY benefit to sod is that you get the instant gratification of having green grass. Sod requires A LOT of water, especially during a drought/heat spell. You should not walk on sod for at lest a week. And the most tedious, sod requires clearing the space for it, making sure the dirt level below it is graded for smoothness/raking rocks out, that the new sod is at the same level as the previous grass...etc.
I would HIGHLY recommend seeding. Go to a home box-store, local nursery, or better yet, a family owned hardware store. Buy yourself a seeder, some grass seed you like-preferably with fertilizers included. 1 gallon jug should do something like 1000 sq/ft. Disperse evenly, cover with either straw from bales you can get at same store or a man made replacement that does the same job. Depending on area, brand will vary, but store employee point to it (They will require stakes to be purchased additionally to tact it down). Your new seeding SHOULD get watered three times a week, every other day, for one & 1/2 hours, for the first three weeks (vs. sod, which is double). The best time, and most effective to water is between 4-8am, NEVER DURING THE HEAT OF THE DAY! If you do this, you'll have grass in three weeks. DO NOT CUT GRASS FOR ONE MONTH. Your new grass area will look unruly for a while, and may be an eye-sore/snake garden, but you really need the grass to establish hard at first. When you do the first cutting, RAISE your mover's blade so that the grass isn't cut less than 6". This is most always much much higher than anybody want.
On the second mowing, cut at 3". After that, do what you normally do. Your Lawn will look great.
Good Luck!
posted by QueerAngel28 at 12:30 PM on May 4, 2013 [4 favorites]
Sod is the hardest and most expensive way to do it. The ONLY benefit to sod is that you get the instant gratification of having green grass. Sod requires A LOT of water, especially during a drought/heat spell. You should not walk on sod for at lest a week. And the most tedious, sod requires clearing the space for it, making sure the dirt level below it is graded for smoothness/raking rocks out, that the new sod is at the same level as the previous grass...etc.
I would HIGHLY recommend seeding. Go to a home box-store, local nursery, or better yet, a family owned hardware store. Buy yourself a seeder, some grass seed you like-preferably with fertilizers included. 1 gallon jug should do something like 1000 sq/ft. Disperse evenly, cover with either straw from bales you can get at same store or a man made replacement that does the same job. Depending on area, brand will vary, but store employee point to it (They will require stakes to be purchased additionally to tact it down). Your new seeding SHOULD get watered three times a week, every other day, for one & 1/2 hours, for the first three weeks (vs. sod, which is double). The best time, and most effective to water is between 4-8am, NEVER DURING THE HEAT OF THE DAY! If you do this, you'll have grass in three weeks. DO NOT CUT GRASS FOR ONE MONTH. Your new grass area will look unruly for a while, and may be an eye-sore/snake garden, but you really need the grass to establish hard at first. When you do the first cutting, RAISE your mover's blade so that the grass isn't cut less than 6". This is most always much much higher than anybody want.
On the second mowing, cut at 3". After that, do what you normally do. Your Lawn will look great.
Good Luck!
posted by QueerAngel28 at 12:30 PM on May 4, 2013 [4 favorites]
Your soil is probably compacted. You can't sod over that by just putting more soil on top- you'll essentially have a layer of hardpan underneath, your lawn will have little drought tolerance due to stunted root growth, water won't penetrate leaving sludgy wet spots or spots that dry out quickly, and your lawn will never look even and nice. You need to rototill to a depth of 6 inches minimum. If you want to be awesome you will then get a soil test done by an agricultural extension or other proper soil testing place, and that will tell you any amendments you need to add. Rototill those in. Rake and roll your lawn to remove bumps and hollows. Decide if you want sod or seed (seed is generally better, because it can be tailored to your situation, and is more easily drought and stress tolerant once established). Plant seed, following directions. Water, according to directions. Now you have a nice lawn.
posted by oneirodynia at 4:25 PM on May 4, 2013 [1 favorite]
posted by oneirodynia at 4:25 PM on May 4, 2013 [1 favorite]
Question- was the new sewer connection for you - ie did you organise the workers? If not try approaching the utility provider that decided your block was the one to access. Contracts I have administered always required a like for like restoration ( within reason), so if you had turf before you get turf again. (crappy weedy yards get spraygrass or seed) There may also be a defects liability period for subsidence. If you organised the workers well, good luck with the suggestions above
posted by insomniax at 3:29 AM on May 5, 2013
posted by insomniax at 3:29 AM on May 5, 2013
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by GuyZero at 5:21 PM on May 3, 2013