Considering moving from the NE and wonder about Durham NC

April 29, 2013 1:48 PM

We are a couple in our mid-50's and are looking for some specific things in our next move; more temperate weather than the North East where we are now; progressive thinking people, good food and a thriving food scene, ability to buy a house for less than $350K, low property taxes ( less than $5K) within driving distance (45 minutes is the max) to a major airport and open-minded people. We are both entrepreneurial and active, love the outdoors and nature and want a small yard for a garden and to be near some kind of water be it a large lake, river or coast. We are considering Portland Ore. or Durham NC. We are still working and work for ourselves. Anyone have an opinion on either or both?
posted by privatechef to Home & Garden (25 answers total)

Very hot, humid summers here in NC - you need to be OK with 4 months of 90 degrees and up per year
posted by thelonius at 1:53 PM on April 29, 2013

I would agree with thelonius - I'm from the midwest and live in Raleigh now. It's not hotter, per se, but it's hotter for longer. September can get pretty grueling.

We do have great restaurants here - Durham was just picked by Southern Living as having the best food scene in the South.

I have friends in Portland and I think either place fits your description well. The main difference I would see is cost of living - your housing dollar will go farther here than in the Pacific Northwest.
posted by something something at 1:56 PM on April 29, 2013

I wouldn't say the summers are quite that hot- maybe 80 to 95. I moved from NC to NYC and the summers here are almost exactly the same- humidity and all.

The Durham food scene is apparently really vibrant these days. Durham definitely ticks all your boxes, is almost certainly the cheaper option of the two, and personally I love North Carolina- however, you have to be ok with living in the liberal enclave of the Triangle but in a conservative-majority state. (It's near a tipping point, but who knows how long it'll take?)
posted by showbiz_liz at 1:57 PM on April 29, 2013 [1 favorite]

Best answer: Well, not Durham, but Raleigh or Chapel Hill might be nice.

I have friends who live in that area and they enjoy a fine life. NC has some pretty conservative politics, but Chapel Hill is a pretty university town. My friends live in Pittsboro, which is adorable and inexpensive.

I'm not sure about the food scene. Lots of chain restaurants for the most part.

Have you done a prolonged visit in either area? Have you driven around to determine where you might like to live? Targeted neighborhoods, looked at homes, etc?

They are two very different places. I've never been to Portland, but as an Atlantan, I can think of worse places than Chapel Hill.
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 1:57 PM on April 29, 2013

Durham has you covered up to "some kind of water be it a large lake...". Founded more or less as a railroad stop, there's no major natural body of water- the lakes in this part of the world are reservoirs and farmer's ponds. I wouldn't make that a deal-breaker though. It's a great town, lived here for fifteen years, and it's gotten more interesting and progressive in each of them.
posted by bendybendy at 2:00 PM on April 29, 2013

Yes, Durham will tick your boxes, and the ease in getting to the outdoors is a huge plus. You also get the opportunity to really 'own' the future of the town. Stay in the old neighborhoods, most of Durham is cookie cutter suburban.
posted by sandmanwv at 2:02 PM on April 29, 2013 [1 favorite]

Best answer: I've lived in both of these cities -- Portland, Ore. for nine years, Durham NC for a summer. I wouldn't call the weather in Durham NC temperate. As for the weather in Portland, you're looking at mostly overcast skies and rain/drizzle from November through June. This bothers some people more than others.

Personally I think Portland may be the best-planned city in the country. Durham, between the heat and the planning, means you're in a car a lot (this is true in a lot of the South.) But maybe that's not an issue for you.
posted by seemoreglass at 2:05 PM on April 29, 2013 [1 favorite]

Durham is way better for what it looks like you want than Chapel Hill is. They are two entirely separate beasts, and having lived in both places, I have to say I prefer Durham. It's more down to earth, less insular, and way more interesting.

I'm not sure about the food scene. Lots of chain restaurants for the most part.

Yeah, not the case. Durham has an amazing food scene, and there are way more indie places than chains. I can't think of one chain downtown. Well, I guess there's a McDonald's.
posted by Stewriffic at 2:22 PM on April 29, 2013 [5 favorites]

Contrary to what bendybendy says, there are some large lakes near Durham. Jordan Lake, for example, is 13,900 acres and just 30 minutes away.

I don't know Portland, but Durham (and its neighbors) sound like they'd fit what you're looking for.
posted by eisenkr at 2:30 PM on April 29, 2013

You'd be driving distance from mountains AND oceans in Durham. And Raleigh Durham is a nice airport.
posted by St. Alia of the Bunnies at 2:30 PM on April 29, 2013

Best answer: One thing to keep in mind - if you know you're going to be traveling to the same places frequently (to visit family, let's say), check the frequency and cost of direct flights from both airports. When we moved to Raleigh-Durham from Los Angeles eight years ago, I was so glad to be closer to everyone I knew, but I didn't take into account that the direct flights from our smaller airport are much more limited than what I was used to. It takes me just as long (or longer) to fly to my family as it did coming all the way from the West Coast, because there aren't any direct flights to where I need to go. RDU is getting bigger and better all the time, but it's still got a way to go.
posted by something something at 2:34 PM on April 29, 2013 [1 favorite]

Portland isn't far from mountains. And east coast mountains are itty bitty anyway.

Personally, I couldn't stand the grey, though.
posted by small_ruminant at 2:36 PM on April 29, 2013

(It's near a tipping point, but who knows how long it'll take?)

Until the next census? NC is in the first year of what may be an extended political experiment of unchecked power by Republicans who have several decades' worth of scores to settle and an explicit desire to stick it to the cities. The Triangle may be somewhat insulated from this, but it won't be immune.
posted by holgate at 3:02 PM on April 29, 2013 [1 favorite]

I’m a Northwesterner who has never lived in Portland, but I’ve visited there various times since I was a kid, have had many friends who lived there, etc.

I also have spent an extensive amount of time in Durham & Chapel Hill since 2009, many months at a time.

As far as climate goes I prefer Portland, but my perspective is as someone from farther north, deep in rain country. Durham is very nice in the fall/winter/spring but gets miserably hot (from a northern perspective) in the summer. Then again, it’s not as hot as the Deep South.

Portland has better public transportation and biking. The bus system within Durham isn’t bad, but the area is more car-oriented than Portland. Also, in Durham (and N.C. in general) most of the roads have little or no shoulders to even comfortably walk along, let alone wide enough that I’d feel comfortable biking. I rarely saw people biking there as compared to Portland.

I believe Durham has cheaper housing and food. Also, there are many *excellent* restaurants in Durham, from “fancy” to cheap (but good) take out. Portland has good food options also, but I was impressed by the quality and prices in Durham.

I’d be very happy living in Portland, but I also really loved the Durham / Chapel Hill area.
posted by D.C. at 3:28 PM on April 29, 2013

So, I am an urban stream ecologist who lived in Durham for 7 years and adores it, here to stick up for Durham's bodies of water. Durham definitely has a major body of water--the Eno River runs through the northern part of the city. Eno River State Park is very nice and offers opportunities for hiking, canoeing/kayaking, and fly-fishing, as well as swimming both in the river and in the quarry (ask a local for advice about the latter). The Eno is so beloved, it even has its own festival. It's also a tributary to the Neuse River, which it flows into at Falls Lake north of Durham (a fitting rival to Jordan Lake to the south, mentioned above, from which flows the Cape Fear River). There are a couple of good sized, gorgeous creeks that run through the city as well: Ellerbe Creek in the north and New Hope Creek in the south. Ellerbe has nice greenway trails and New Hope can be accessed at several points in Duke Forest.

Otherwise, I support the reports above from my friends in Durham. I've lived in Atlanta for two years and I desperately miss the amazing food scene and the cheap cost of living in Durham (and the Eno).
posted by hydropsyche at 4:23 PM on April 29, 2013 [1 favorite]

Durham is fantastic, and Duke Forest is a beautiful place to be near. The unemployment rate in the research triangle is the lowest in the state of North Carolina. The area has an acclaimed food scene, and a a vibrant food truck community as well. The bus system is nice if you have an employer that will give you a GoPass; the stops are consistent and trackable through mobile apps, and there is free WiFi on the buses. Metafilter community is probably larger in PDX, and you should probably think about which climate is more bearable. Portland is larger, the area is more liberal, and the soil is better.

Honestly, both are great. Flip a coin.
posted by oceanjesse at 6:08 PM on April 29, 2013

Durham should meet all of your needs. There are lots of progressive people, tons of fantastic local food, reasonably-priced real estate, and a 20-minute drive to RDU. Portland also seems like a great place, although my understanding is that it's a lot more expensive. As a former Californian, I wouldn't consider Durham weather temperate. The summers are terrible.

If you decide to move to Durham, be sure to really explore lots of neighborhoods before buying anything. The whole feel of a community can change in a couple of blocks here. Although Durham itself is liberal, we've somehow wound up on a mostly Republican street. Bleh.
posted by JuliaKM at 7:18 AM on April 30, 2013

Best answer: Portland is rainy, yes. Generally, it tends to bother people more than they think it will, at least for the first few years. That's been my experience and that of most of the people I know that have moved here. You get used to it, though, even grow to love it. But it is grey. It is a defining characteristic of this city and makes it what it is, from the neon green glow of the moss in the Spring to the vast quantity of beers and bars, where people hide out in the winter months, to the calm aura. You don't really know how the rain will affect you until you've been here at least a year. For some, it's nothing, for others, it's so bad they can't stay. For most, it's affecting, but you find ways to deal and even embrace it. But, keep it in mind. It's rainy here.

Portland has incredible food and is of course very progressive and liberal. You won't want for amazing food or free thinkers here.

From anywhere close-in, the airport is about a 20 or 30 minute drive, or a 45-60 minute train ride. It's incredibly convenient. My favorite airport in the world. It's complete with a Rogue and a Powells and soon a Burgerville. Makes you want to go out there just to hang out.

Portland is about an hour from the coast, on two large rivers and near a bunch more, and near many mountain lakes. Proximity to nature is why I moved here and it does not disappoint. I routinely find myself an hour from Portland on the weekends hiking in the Gorge or on Mt. Hood and I feel like I might as well be a thousand miles from anywhere, enjoying some of the most beautiful outdoors the country has. No matter what your outdoor activity, you'll find a huge community of folks and ample opportunities for it.

The property taxes here are high. I'm not sure what your actual cost would be, but the property taxes and income taxes basically make up for the lack of sales tax here. So bear that in mind. I don't own a house, but my friends who do tend to complain about the property taxes quite a bit.

Depending on how close-in you're buying, or if you want suburbs, what suburb, 350 will get you a decent house. Real estate is expensive here for sure. A house in a desirable inner NE or SE neighborhood that would cost $100,000 in the midwest will cost $700,000. The cheapest relatively close-in house you can buy in Portland with a space for a garden and such is probably $225k. So $350 is certainly doable.
posted by Lutoslawski at 10:27 AM on April 30, 2013 [1 favorite]

So it's a little late, but I got my hair cut last week by a Portland transplant now living in Durham. He said that the main differences between Portland and Durham is that Portland is very white, more expensive, too-liberal for him, and has ugly weather. He said he was pleasantly surprised at the opennness to him and his partner here in Durham*. His Portland friends have bad thoughts about the south, but he is very happy here in Durham.



*he actually had a lovely story about buying his house where the owner, who had grown up in the house, made them submit a letter detailing why they wanted the house. She ended up meeting up with them and buying them lunch, explaining that she had never known anyone gay before but was so touched by their essay that she was overflowing with love for them. She cried.
posted by Stewriffic at 3:00 PM on May 5, 2013 [2 favorites]

Response by poster: I agree with many about Portland as I have been there lots of times but found that living in walking distance to cool stuff was expensive- I looked with a realtor two years ago. It was discouraging. I do think the rain would get to me and so Durham would be more my style. We moved from LA so there is no better weather anywhere - that is an adjustment, but Durham sounds worth a couple visits at least.
I heard it's very small though and then you get out in the country and it's red neck really fast- that might be a concern. I am not a fan of that demographic.
Does anyone want to comment on the element?
posted by privatechef at 1:52 PM on May 30, 2013

I heard it's very small though and then you get out in the country and it's red neck really fast- that might be a concern. I am not a fan of that demographic.

I don't think it's more true of Durham than anywhere else. You've also got Chapel Hill and Raleigh right there, too.
posted by showbiz_liz at 2:06 PM on May 30, 2013 [1 favorite]

Yeah, one of my friends from college who gleefully identifies as a redneck and probably fits all your stereotypes is from Lancaster, CA. I'm from NC and now live in Georgia. You can't actually never ever run into a rural, working class, white person if you live in Durham. I think if you don't worry about it, or think about them as "that demographic", and instead just treat them like folks, you may find that you like their produce and their cooking (Eastern NC barbecue and Brunswick stew), among other things.
posted by hydropsyche at 3:04 PM on May 30, 2013 [1 favorite]

Yeah, once you get out into the country in any of the major NC cities, it does turn into Land of the Rednecks. But I promise you that many of these folks are salt of the earth, really nice people, they can cook like you wouldn't believe, and you have nothing to fear from them. I myself are related to a few.

But if you are in Durham, you will have Raleigh and Chapel Hill right there, and I think you will be happy in your habitat regardless.

(Let me tell you a secret. There are "rednecks" everywhere, they just go by different names and have different accents. )
posted by St. Alia of the Bunnies at 4:32 PM on May 30, 2013 [2 favorites]

Response by poster: I agree there are rednecks everywhere just called something else. And I also no we are all the same in the end ( even with different politics) I just want to be able to find like minded people where I live to develop a community.
We can't afford Portland is where it's at. We looked and yes, all the cool walking neighborhoods are over-priced already so Durham will be the next place to explore.

I also wanted to see what Tampa/ St.Pete is like as we really wanted to be nearer to water. I know it's the real South and nothing like Durham but we have options right now and why not check them out? What appeals to us is the warm weather, water and the growing economy there.
posted by privatechef at 5:16 AM on June 14, 2013

I used to live in Sarasota (right below Tampa) and that might be a place for you to consider.

Also know that you WILL need an exterminator. NEED. It doesn't matter how clean your house is you will have palmetto bugs, and possibly german roaches. And carry a sweater everywhere even during summer because you will freeze your tuckas off in any public building.
posted by St. Alia of the Bunnies at 6:33 AM on June 14, 2013