Help in Haiti

May 31, 2005 2:17 PM

Yes, I'm going to Haiti for the first time. Anyone ever go? Tips?

My gf and I will be in Port au Prince the first night, at the Hotel Oloffson. From there we go to Jacmel for the rest of the trip. We've got a few things lined up like voodoo ceremonies and snorkeling, but any other tips would be appreciated.
What are the big cultural differences besides the obvious financial ones? Should I bring my camera? My iPod? Any unknown dangers I should be wary of? Also, we plan on bringing small gifts (balls, games, etc.) for the children of the small village we are staying in...any other ideas on what to give them?

posted by hellbient to Travel & Transportation around Haiti (22 answers total)

Don't.
posted by basicchannel at 3:14 PM on May 31, 2005

Haiti is a pretty dangerous place. Keep bribe money on you for both people who will give you a hard time deliberately (customs, police, etc.) Never keep too much money on you, though, as americans are a hugely popular target for robbery there. Avoid the slums in the cities if at all possible.
posted by mervin_shnegwood at 3:18 PM on May 31, 2005

You're really not aware that Haiti isn't exactly a good tourist destination right now?
posted by cmonkey at 3:25 PM on May 31, 2005

You are braver than I, and I don't shy away from countries with travel advisories. Are you sure you wouldn't rather go to the Dominican Republic next door?

If you must go, I'd recommend finding a guide and a car. Before you go, preferably. Do lots of research on the net. Honestly, I wouldn't take the iPod or camera unless you are booking hotels with room safes. I often travel with a camera, but end up not taking pictures because I'm not comfortable carrying it. If prepaid phone service is available, it might be a good idea to get a cell phone for emergencies. Be sure to register with the US embassy.
posted by joelr at 3:30 PM on May 31, 2005

forbes.com:

The death in mid-April of a Philippine U.N. Peacekeeper in Haiti is only the latest symptom of the country's political instability. Haiti has no organized police force to speak of, and armed gangs roam the streets participating in spontaneous attacks on each other and on civilians. Criminal activity, including looting, car jacking and kidnapping, is common, and the U.S. Embassy in Port-au-Prince has established a curfew of 9 P.M. to 5 A.M. to protect its employees.

They give it a '5' on their risk scale which is equal to the Ivory Coast, Iraq and Afghanistan. Bon voyage!
posted by basicchannel at 3:45 PM on May 31, 2005

Never been, but anecdotally speaking: A good friend is the executive director of Clean Water for Haiti, and lives in Haiti year round, building biosand water filters for local villages. His brother is a videographer, and visited in January. He brought thousands of dollars worth of equipment, and had no problems. His account is here.

If you want me to put you in contact with either brother, contact me off-list. Considering this is Haiti we're talking about, and if you are dead set on going, their advice could be indispensable.
posted by kables at 3:53 PM on May 31, 2005

Condoms. Thick. Do not skimp in this area.
posted by dong_resin at 3:58 PM on May 31, 2005

Response by poster: Wow, thanks for the concern, but we're definitely going this time, unless another overthrow happens...we were headed there last February right when the shit went down. We are both blancs, but we know some people that live there, so we should be fine, especially once we get out of Port-au-Prince.
We know quite a few Haitians in New York who hooked us up with a reliable driver. We're not going to keep the peace or protest, which should cut our risk factor down quite a bit. But yes, I realize it is a dangerous place.
Thanks and keep it coming...
posted by hellbient at 4:45 PM on May 31, 2005

hellbient - don't be a hero. Put this off for another year. I've travelled on business in unstable South American countries when similar advisories were written, and the only thing that kept me from cancelling was the knowledge that I had an embassy to turn to if things got sour (and the embassy and my in-country contacts knew where I was, at all times).

It's romantic to think of travel in dangerous places, but when you are in the thick of things, the romance can turn to mere survival.

You are getting away from the capital, thinking that the situation may be better away from the big cities - I think that it could be far worse. And how will you get out of the capital? With a driver, right? Please read the advisory again about road blockages, and about the lack of a properly organized police force.

Who will assure your personal safety? And that of your girlfriend? And, how much will this cost you?

So let me join the chorus of MeFites who advise you, ever so gently, to reconsider the trip.
posted by seawallrunner at 5:34 PM on May 31, 2005

Response by poster: We're taking a 15 minute plane ride out of Port au Prince to Jacmel and the same plane back, which I'm happy about.

Jacmel is basically an artist's community in the south, there was very little activity there last year. Believe me, I'm not interested in being a hero nor do I find dangerous situations romantic. I have a pretty good feeling we're in good hands this time.
posted by hellbient at 6:41 PM on May 31, 2005

I have absolutely no advice but I am just really interested in the idea of traveling to Haiti. Unlike everyone else, I think it sounds terrific. Have you read any books by Wade Davis? I haven't actually gotten around to reading any yet. It might be of interest to you although it seems like a fairly obvious suggestion given the Serpent and the Rainbow and all.
posted by crapulent at 6:54 PM on May 31, 2005

A good friend is the executive director of Clean Water for Haiti...

Small world. A good friend founded CWfH!

In addition to what kables says, I suggest you actually volunteer at CWfH for a few days. They could use the help, you'll learn more than you ever thought possible, and the Haitians desperately need the help.
posted by five fresh fish at 7:00 PM on May 31, 2005

It sounds as though you are dead set on going. It's been a few years since I've been in Haiti, but I'm sure it's gone from bad to worse, if that's possible.
Bring a good quality water, and only use that. If you are going to drink anything else, it should only be imported bottled or beverages served in establishments that cater to foreigners.
In terms of gifts, expect to be swarmed every time you intend to offer anything. It's a noble action, but you will instantly be the center of attention, and every shyster will look at you as a mark. When in Port-au-Prince, keep a very low profile, and get the hell out of there ASAP.
The snorkeling on the island can be amazing, but survey the scene carefully, as sewage runoff is not uncommon. With that in mind, I would take a couple of those disposable cameras that can also work under water. If the cameras get stolen, you won't take the financial hit. Don't take your iPod, you won't use it, plus everyone there knows what the white plugs are, and once again, you'll be a mark.
On the positive side, the Haitian people can be some of the kindest and sweetest you will every meet, amazing given the circumstances, and do expect to be shocked.
You will do more to help some of them by visiting artists, I'm sure you know that Haitian art is getting popular, and they know it too. Some areas are actually seeing an economic "boom". I have some mahogany pieces that are amazing.
Lastly, remember to bring back as much Barbancourt Rhum (5 star) as you can carry.
Good luck.
posted by Heatwole at 4:32 AM on June 1, 2005

I'm sorry, I meant water filter.
posted by Heatwole at 4:32 AM on June 1, 2005

Hey, just wanted to put in another positive vote for Haiti... I really would like to go myself someday! It's probably more dangerous than you're thinking, but as long as you go there with eyes open...

This might be a bit of a derail, but someone mentioned Wade Davis (without reading them--for shame! ;-). Though he isn't nearly as horrible/racist/misguided as many Carribean studies scholars say he is, he ain't the authority either (nor I think does he pretend to be, but I don't know him). I would suggest many other authors on Haiti before going to Wade Davis (who still offers some good information):

Edwidge Danticat
Karen McCarthy Brown
Robert Farris Thompson
Phyllis Galembo
Sacred Arts of Haitian Vodou
Elizabeth McAlister

Sorry if you've already read these... they're the usual fare when it comes to Haitian studies, and a good place to start.

Good luck with your trip!
posted by ibeji at 5:28 AM on June 1, 2005

Response by poster: To those interested (crapulent, ibeji, etc.), send me an email if you like and I'm sure I can hook you up with our Kabik connection (I was wrong - we're staying in Kabik, a small town close to Jacmel). Our little house is on the water, and is 20 or $30/night. That's with fresh fish and eggs cooked for us daily. Local boys will shimmy up a coconut tree and grab one for you. We've had a few friends stay there and they describe it as an immensely peaceful place.

We are starting to consider skipping Port au Prince. If anything happens, it'll likely happen there. But the way Hotel Oloffson is described to us is like it's own world.
We may bring as many children's sneakers as we can, and let our friend pass them along, so as not to attract too much attention to ourselves. Apparently the kids there really need shoes. I'll post again here when/if we return, and maybe answer some of my own questions, whoever is interested.

Thanks again everyone! This has been extremely helpful.
And thanks for the literature tips! I planned on at least reading Graham Greene, but probably won't get to before we leave next week.
posted by hellbient at 8:53 AM on June 1, 2005

What's your limitation on "as many children's sneakers" - aquisition or carrying them? I (and I would imagine, others here) will happily go down to the local Goodwill store and buy what they have and ship them to you if you're capable of carrying more than you can aquire.
posted by phearlez at 9:03 AM on June 1, 2005

Response by poster: Oh, and my girlfriend just sent me this:

from here:

These days, the State Department maintains a Web site of "no go" zones (travel.state.gov/travel/warnings.html)—28 countries (at last count) that might pose harm to the tender traveler. Yes, these spots are dangerous—to a degree. But to rank the dangers of Israel with those of Liberia or to lump fear and loathing in Iran with the bloody mayhem of Iraq is ridiculous. Haiti, Libya, and Sudan are all open for business, and these and many other recently troubled countries offer rich history, beautiful scenery, wonderful people . . . basically everything except tourists. My take on all this "no go" stuff is this: Do your homework, understand the risks, and be willing to work a little harder for your leisure. If you decide to go you will be greatly rewarded. (Did I mention that I also had Angkor Wat all to myself at one point?) Virtually every country listed below has a government tourism board that can hook you up with reputable guides. Here are just five spots with bad reputations where I'd personally find a bathing suit more useful than a flak jacket. Call it my "go" list.
posted by hellbient at 9:05 AM on June 1, 2005

Response by poster: phearlez - as many as we can fit, I suppose. I can't imagine being able to carry more than 10 or so. I may do the Goodwill thing myself, thanks for the idea.
posted by hellbient at 9:12 AM on June 1, 2005

My pleasure. It seems a good way to put some money into local charity and accomplish something at your destination as well.

As far as what you can carry, the majority of my slumming travel I do with luggage from the local Army-Navy. You can get duffels of varying sizes for super cheap - I have one I could pack myself into if needed that I paid under $20 for. You could get something a little less excessive which would either also be donateable or capable of being folded up as small as a paperback book for the return trip.
posted by phearlez at 9:36 AM on June 1, 2005

Did you check with your insurance company (if you plan to get travel insurance) if there's clause limiting your coverage in the case of official advisory not to visit a certain country ?

I am asking because a few years ago I cancelled a trip to India because the Dutch government put (certain regions of) India on the "don't go there" list. That meant that if I did decide to go after all, I would not be covered by any insurance.
posted by swordfishtrombones at 3:56 PM on June 1, 2005

Response by poster: so...we decided not to go, mainly because of yesterday's NY Times article. And some of our Haitian friends expressed concern as well, which threw up some flags.
The folks in Jacmel/Kabik were understandably frustrated because Jacmel is nothing like Port au Prince, where all the violence is happening. But being that it's physically impossible to get to Haiti without going through Port au Prince, we decided to wait until things get a little better.
posted by hellbient at 3:00 PM on June 7, 2005