Inadequate blackouts!
July 23, 2011 11:29 AM Subscribe
Do you know how to minimize light coming in around the sides, top and bottom of blackout curtains?
Can you help me reduce light leaks around my blackout curtains?
I have 60" windows and 63" grommet top blackout panels but have furniture underneath so can't use longer panels. Windows also have fitted blinds inside.
Velcro tape and doublestick tape between the curtains and wall don't stay stuck to the wall for more than a week, still leave gaps, and make the curtains look goofy.
I'm thinking about attaching 8" strips of blackout material along the vertical window edge underneath the blackout panels to try to reduce the light leak, and something like a door snake that could sit on the sill at night and be removed when I open the curtains.
There must be more elegant solutions. What are they? Thanks for all ideas!
Can you help me reduce light leaks around my blackout curtains?
I have 60" windows and 63" grommet top blackout panels but have furniture underneath so can't use longer panels. Windows also have fitted blinds inside.
Velcro tape and doublestick tape between the curtains and wall don't stay stuck to the wall for more than a week, still leave gaps, and make the curtains look goofy.
I'm thinking about attaching 8" strips of blackout material along the vertical window edge underneath the blackout panels to try to reduce the light leak, and something like a door snake that could sit on the sill at night and be removed when I open the curtains.
There must be more elegant solutions. What are they? Thanks for all ideas!
Response by poster: Two panels per window. Because they're grommet tops I get a good closure in the middle with no light leaks, but the outside edges let in a lot of light.
posted by zepheria at 11:41 AM on July 23, 2011
posted by zepheria at 11:41 AM on July 23, 2011
I have this same problem. I have a blackout blind, though, and have considered making some kind of close fitting "box" that will fit around the outside edge of the blind and stop the light getting through as easily. Something like the 4th pic down in this blog post. Painted to match the walls, I think it could blend in quite easily.
posted by Solomon at 11:49 AM on July 23, 2011
posted by Solomon at 11:49 AM on July 23, 2011
Best answer: Same problem in my theatre room, I have a rather unfortunate window right next to the screen.
Solution - get a pull-shade (the cheap white things on a spring roller), and build a 4" wide baffle all the way around the window frame. Put the baffle between the pull-shade and the "real" light blocking curtain, and you'll have almost zero light leaking out around the edges.
Note that if you have an especially irregular frame, you may still get some light from between the baffle and the jambs (the angle of the light usually make it not so noticeable on the head and sill). You can solve that with a strip of 1/8" thick foam tape between the jambs and the baffle.
Or for a cheaper and easier, but less attractive, solution, double-sided tape and aluminum foil.
posted by pla at 12:12 PM on July 23, 2011
Solution - get a pull-shade (the cheap white things on a spring roller), and build a 4" wide baffle all the way around the window frame. Put the baffle between the pull-shade and the "real" light blocking curtain, and you'll have almost zero light leaking out around the edges.
Note that if you have an especially irregular frame, you may still get some light from between the baffle and the jambs (the angle of the light usually make it not so noticeable on the head and sill). You can solve that with a strip of 1/8" thick foam tape between the jambs and the baffle.
Or for a cheaper and easier, but less attractive, solution, double-sided tape and aluminum foil.
posted by pla at 12:12 PM on July 23, 2011
Mine aren't grommetted, they've got a sewn-over tube along the top through which the rod fits. So, my solution may not work well for you, but then, it might work approximately the same way. Maybe you could adapt it.
My curtain rod is hung on two coat hooks mounted on the wall over the window. The coat hooks are selected to be essentially longish metal hooks (long, blunt - you know, for a coat) that angle up from the wall, so that the rod, when gravity pulls it downward, is also pushed against the wall. This effectively seals the top against light.
It does make it difficult to open and close the curtains, but that's OK -- I have ties for each side and the curtains just stay nearly together at the top even when they're open.
The curtains are heavy enough that the outside vertical edges stay against the wall very well. Mine are for full-length sliding-glass doors; I was careful to mount the rod supports such that the curtain brushed the floor exactly, and it works pretty well (except when cats get between the curtains and the window).
posted by amtho at 12:48 PM on July 23, 2011
My curtain rod is hung on two coat hooks mounted on the wall over the window. The coat hooks are selected to be essentially longish metal hooks (long, blunt - you know, for a coat) that angle up from the wall, so that the rod, when gravity pulls it downward, is also pushed against the wall. This effectively seals the top against light.
It does make it difficult to open and close the curtains, but that's OK -- I have ties for each side and the curtains just stay nearly together at the top even when they're open.
The curtains are heavy enough that the outside vertical edges stay against the wall very well. Mine are for full-length sliding-glass doors; I was careful to mount the rod supports such that the curtain brushed the floor exactly, and it works pretty well (except when cats get between the curtains and the window).
posted by amtho at 12:48 PM on July 23, 2011
Best answer: How about using strong little magnets? You could sew a few to the edges of the curtain, then put a few matching discreet screws in the woodwork where you want them to stay put. Magnetic snaps would be another possibility.
If you use these, of course be sure to handle and secure them carefully if there are any pets or small people around who could swallow them.
posted by Corvid at 2:47 PM on July 23, 2011 [2 favorites]
If you use these, of course be sure to handle and secure them carefully if there are any pets or small people around who could swallow them.
posted by Corvid at 2:47 PM on July 23, 2011 [2 favorites]
Best answer: Seconding magnets. Night shift here, paired magnets around the sides work well, blackout blinds underneath fix light from the bottom.
posted by skyl1n3 at 5:46 PM on July 23, 2011 [1 favorite]
posted by skyl1n3 at 5:46 PM on July 23, 2011 [1 favorite]
I ended up taking a long, thin strip of thick fabric and laying it across the top of the curtain rod (tucking it in a bit in the gap) and using the sides to overlap the blackout gap.
I also taped a couple layers of fabric directly to the windowframe covering the glass, so the blackouts take care of a greatly reduced amount of light through the window.
posted by bookdragoness at 6:27 PM on July 23, 2011
I also taped a couple layers of fabric directly to the windowframe covering the glass, so the blackouts take care of a greatly reduced amount of light through the window.
posted by bookdragoness at 6:27 PM on July 23, 2011
Best answer: Never done it, but frugality websites advise using magnet strips on the curtains and the window frames to seal drafty windows.
posted by bentley at 5:43 AM on July 24, 2011
posted by bentley at 5:43 AM on July 24, 2011
Response by poster: I tried some magnet tape strips and they did a solid job.
A foam tape berm at the top under the curtain rod blocked out the light at the top. Will give this a week or two before I try any further construction, but I think pla's roller shade baffle idea will be the next step.
Thanks, all!!
posted by zepheria at 11:33 AM on July 24, 2011
A foam tape berm at the top under the curtain rod blocked out the light at the top. Will give this a week or two before I try any further construction, but I think pla's roller shade baffle idea will be the next step.
Thanks, all!!
posted by zepheria at 11:33 AM on July 24, 2011
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posted by bluedaisy at 11:39 AM on July 23, 2011