If Providence, RI was a color/song/animal, what would it be?

July 7, 2011 2:57 PM

What is Providence, RI like?

I just got offered a job in Providence, RI. I really like the job, and honestly I'm excited to get any job while lots of my friends are living at home and unemployed.

But I've never been to Providence, and have pretty limited experience with the east coast in general. What's providence like? What's the general feel/personality of it? I don't know how to formulate any specific questions, I have to tell them if I'm taking the job or not by tomorrow(!) so I'm a little overwhelmed.

relevant details about me:

-23, female
-from the midwest, pretty much have always lived in the midwest (and a little in the south). I've lived in chicago as well as lots of pretty small towns
-I like being close to outdoors stuff, art, live music. I like being able to walk places
-I am exceptionally laid back and down to earth, and like to be around people who are the same-- I always thought this might mean that the east coast wouldn't be a good fit for me?
-I like older-feeling cities-- don't have to be picture perfect historical places, just not shiny new places
-I'm pretty poor
-I'm not that great at meeting new people. I'm not hopeless, but I'm a little shy.

posted by geegollygosh to Society & Culture (21 answers total)

Providence is a cool place. I never lived there, but I spent lots of time there.

It's definitely older-feeling. Beautiful old houses built right up to the street. Compared to the Midwest it's pretty expensive (probably comparable to Chicago?). Very, very walkable.

Outdoors = fail.
Poverty = not a big problem.

The central part of the city very much feels like a small college town. Downtown is a classic gothic East Coast feeling city. There are a lot of really sketchy neighborhoods on the fringes, and lots of cool ones.

It's a really fun city to explore, with lots of interesting little places and oddities -- always my favorite thing about it. Nowhere in the country is quite like it.

Bonus: Boston is always a $7 train ride away on the T -- don't forget that.
posted by zvs at 3:06 PM on July 7, 2011

Providence is great! There's plenty of art and music, the city has built a reputation on it in recent years. It's certainly an older city, and very much smaller. It's a speck compared to Chicago. It'll be easy to be poor there, it can be cheap as all get out. It's walkable-ish, I'd definitely get a bike. Hope that helps!
posted by thebigdeadwaltz at 3:06 PM on July 7, 2011

(feel free to Mefi Mail if you have other questions)
posted by zvs at 3:07 PM on July 7, 2011

Response by poster: Thanks for the answers so far!

What about driving? I really hate driving but I think I'll have to drive a fair amount. How is driving/navigating in RI?
posted by geegollygosh at 3:28 PM on July 7, 2011

Very, very bad. Providence has horrendous freeway traffic (although I haven't driven there since the new 195 opened, so maybe it's better now), and the layout is pretty confusing. Not as bad as Boston, but not good either.
posted by zvs at 3:34 PM on July 7, 2011

I've never had to do the highway in rush hour thing there, so I can't speak to that, but the road layout is maddening and terribly signed. My Rhode Islander wife jokes that it's to keep out outsiders, and it seems plausible.
posted by Bulgaroktonos at 3:41 PM on July 7, 2011

Congrats on the job offer! I lived in Providence for a while, and overall I think it's a great place to be for a young person. The city sort of has its own unique vibe. It has a small-town feel in the sense that after a while you'll start recognizing a lot of the same folks wherever you go. My friends who are still there and who are happiest are the ones who got involved in activities (like roller derby, summer kickball league, music, urban farming) that helped to define their social life. Especially on the West Side of the city, you'll find lots of people who are laid back in a scrappy, arty way. By midwestern standards you might not find people super friendly to start, but as I said, before too long (especially if you jump in and get involved in things) you will see familiar faces all over. The city has lots of history and some truly beautiful historic sections, but also a fair amount of sprawl and some pretty downtrodden neighborhoods. If you're going for walkability, I'd recommend the East Side (near Brown University and RISD).

Outdoors = fail

Beg to differ! I just visited and enjoyed rock scrambling on the beach at a beautiful state park and swimming in a pristine pond, both within 40 minutes of the city. There is tons of gorgeous coastline to explore, and you're not far from the White Mountains in New Hampshire, the Maine coast, Vermont, etc. Those destinations do require driving, although the city bus can take you to some of the beaches (like Newport).

Maybe I just got used to it, but I don't think getting around by car is more difficult than other cities of a similar size. It's true that traffic on 95 gets bad at rush hour, but since you wouldn't be commuting to Boston this hopefully wouldn't be a daily concern for you. If you do have a car, you'll have to look into parking, as there is no overnight street parking in most of the city. (The unfortunate result of which is that many would-be backyards are paved over to make parking spaces.)

I lived in Providence for a number of years. I really liked it while I was there but started to feel like I outgrew it after a while and needed to try something different. I think that's a common story. Now, after having tried something different for a few years (NYC), I often toy with the idea of going back. Good luck with your decision and feel free to message me if you have specific questions.
posted by messica at 4:01 PM on July 7, 2011 [1 favorite]

I like Providence. I didn't like it when I used to visit friends at Brown and we only hung out around Brown, but I like it now. I don't know if the city has improved in the past 10-15 years, or if it's that now I'm an adult I have reason to go to the more adult areas. Pretty sure it's both. Providence is small, but it has the feel of a larger place. (As a visitor, I mean, I don't know if it would start to feel tiny once you lived there for a while.) I think it seems larger because of the architecture - it has what I think of as "big city buildings" - and the fact that there are distinct neighborhoods. People who live there seem to be fond of it. I went to Waterfire a few years ago and there was a sense of, I don't know what exactly. Community, or something that made what could be a cheesy tourist display feel surprisingly special. It's also convenient to other East Coast cities, with the train station being where it is. It's not one of my favorite cities or anything, but if it moved one state over, I'd consider living there. (Maybe we could trade it for Hartford...)

I am exceptionally laid back and down to earth, and like to be around people who are the same-- I always thought this might mean that the east coast wouldn't be a good fit for me?

The definition of those traits might vary from one person to the next. But I'd say that the East Coast might not feel as laid back to you, because in general people here do everything at a faster pace. But individuals are just as laid back - or not - as they are elsewhere. To me East Coasters (outside of the very fancy areas) are somewhat more down to earth than in the Midwest, where I've also lived. We are less outwardly open and friendly, but more upfront. And in all matters of East Coast vs. Anywhere Else, remember that Providence is not New York, or Boston, or Philadelphia, or even New Haven. It feels much more small-town-like in those respects (again, just as a visitor.)
posted by DestinationUnknown at 4:34 PM on July 7, 2011

I lived in Providence for five years, 2005-10. If I had to describe it in personality terms I'd say it's weird and engaging. If you're willing to look around there's always interesting stuff going on. Also, I can't overemphasize how good the food culture is. Johnson & Wales University is a top-rank culinary school, so there are lots of highly trained chefs working in restaurants, even cheaper places. The one blight is that there isn't a good Chinese or Japanese place, but you can jump on the (cheap!) train to Boston and be right in Chinatown in an hour. The coffee there is good. Blue State, White Electric and Café Choklad are my three favorites, and the last one has great pastry and sandwiches (the pastry and sandwiches at the other places are fine too... oh, and White Electric is next to a small and lovely used bookstore, Ada Books, that I recommend checking out). Seven Stars is a good bakery, especially when it comes to breads (there are two locations, one on the East Side, another on the West Side). Oh, and it's a weird place. So much that happens is inexplicable... but I'll just let you discover all that for yourself :)

I miss Providence quite a bit. It's a wonderful city to live in. It's very walkable. I never needed to own a car since I never lived more than half an hour's walk from work (it helped that my workplace was right in the center of town). It's one of the most densely populated metropolitan areas in the US, so things are relatively close together. It's easy to take the train to New York and points south and Boston is very close.

There's lots of lovely outdoorsy areas near there. Some favorites are Purgatory Chasm, the beaches down south and Lincoln Woods. There's lots more in nearby states (Rhode Island is tiny... you can't drive an hour in any direction without being out of the state or hitting the shore).

As to expensiveness... I had a part-time job while I was there and did just fine. Yeah, I lived cheaply, but I certainly wasn't starving and it's easy to do.

When it comes to meeting people, I recommend having hobbies. It's easier to meet people when you've got something in common with them. The local MeFites are a lovely, friendly bunch, so don't be afraid to call for a meetup when you move there.
posted by Kattullus at 5:01 PM on July 7, 2011

I used to visit Providence a lot, working in Newport (yes, I know that's backwards). Providence struck me as a pretty cool town. The food scene is remarkably interesting given the size of the town. The best cheese sandwich in the world is at The Rue. In the summertime/early fall Waterfire is a pretty nice experience.

Providence is also "close" to Boston, Newport, the Cape, and other fun Northeastern destinations.

Given the traits you described I don't think Providence would be a problem.
posted by Runes at 7:02 PM on July 7, 2011

I'll nth what everybody is saying--Providence is great. It's small without being too small, and full of culture. Brown and RISD are two of the most creative, open-minded schools not just in the east but in all of America, and they set the tone for the community. You shouldn't have a problem meeting interesting people.
posted by Karmacane at 7:15 PM on July 7, 2011

And another person nthing all the other comments. I grew up in a bigger city and moved to Providence 6 years ago. I have since moved away and I miss the hell out of it.

The food scene is great. It's a drinking town, if thats your thing. It's quirky as all hell. The people are nice for New England but you will probably find them to be neurotic and unfriendly at first. The city has a bit of an underdog feel to it. Lots of art and artists. And hipsters.

Driving and drivers are pretty awful as a general rule. I actually just stopped using my horn when I moved to Providence because there was just no point anymore. Traffic is a walk in the park compared to bigger cities. Some of the worst traffic I hit was on Route 4 headed to the beaches.

It's very affordable for an east coast city too. But it depends on where you choose to live. Some of the more affordable neighborhoods can be a bit dicey and you should keep that in mind if you are walking alone. But that's true of anywhere.
posted by WickedPissah at 8:38 PM on July 7, 2011

As a born and raised Rhode Islander, I think Providence is a tremendously underrated city. You will absolutely find art, culture, and live music. But the best thing about Providence is that it is close to so much. Beaches and Boston are only an hour away.

You will need a car though. And while you may live in Providence, you can save a bunch by living in the suburbs and commuting 10-20 minutes into Providence. It is inexpensive as east coast cities go, but it is still an east coast city.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to Mefi mail me.

Hope you come to the Biggest Little State in the Union! (an old tourism slogan)
posted by LouMac at 9:32 PM on July 7, 2011

I lived in Providence for 5 years, from 2006 until 2 months ago. It is a great little city with lots going on. The art scene is really great. Food is excellent and goes from cheep to 'man, that was wicked expensive'.

If you are looking for a place to live, I can recommend a great landlord in the city. We lived on the edge of Smith Hill (about a 10 minute walk to Downcity), where there is a neighborhood that is much less gritty than the adjoining area, but the rents are about 25% less than on the East Side.

My husband used the bus to commute to Newport with much success, but we still needed to own a car for my own commute and for getting around to other places. And it was a hell of a lot easier to get to Whole Foods with the car.

I am exceptionally laid back and down to earth, and like to be around people who are the same-- I always thought this might mean that the east coast wouldn't be a good fit for me?

I am with DestinationUnknown above. I've traveled quite a bit, but otherwise am pretty much a life-long New Englander and you can find down-to-earth and non-down-to-earth people where-ever you go. We can be more manic and cut to the chase a bit versus other places, but if you find the crowd that is right for you, which should be possible in Providence, then you'll be fine.
posted by chiefthe at 11:28 PM on July 7, 2011

Tiny little data point on driving: I drove through the Capitol/Providence Place area during lunch hour on a Thursday recently, and it was fine.
posted by troywestfield at 6:04 AM on July 8, 2011

I live about 15-20 minutes outside Providence, but I grew up in Minnesota.

Downtown architecture has been carefully protected, and coming into the city each morning I am struck how much it reminds me of downtown St. Paul, MN.

The poverty is concentrated in a few areas where you probably won't live or even go very often. *shrug*

The outdoors are accessible and fun. There's of course the Narragannsett Bay right into downtown, plenty of beaches, climbing (or so I am told), lots of parks, and (my favorite) plenty of geocaching to get you out of your chair. It's fast to get to Cape Cod, and there's a fantastic AAA ball park in Pawtucket with heavenly seating on the left field berm for summer nights.

There's commuter rail up to Boston from right downtown PVD, and the drive is under an hour. Our airport is much less busy than Boston's, and I prefer flying out of there. (We haven't been through Boston Logan in years, in fact.)

I love Chicago, and I am a Midwest bigot through and through, but living in/around Providence is pretty good!
posted by wenestvedt at 6:20 AM on July 8, 2011

Oh, yeah: there's tons of live music here, plus RISD, so the arts scene is good. There are a lot of special interest groups, too, like Providence Geeks or the activites at AS220 (a public arts space). You don't have to work too hard to meet interesting people or do cool stuff, though New Englanders can be a little closed to outsiders.
posted by wenestvedt at 6:23 AM on July 8, 2011

I grew up outside of Providence and went to school in Providence for high school. I haven't lived there as an adult, but I do go back pretty frequently. Everything upthread is true: great food, high quality culture offerings for a city its size, nice ambience, super nice downtown area around the river, etc. Every time I go back, I realize how little I appreciated Providence growing up and how nice it is now.

As for driving, I never had a car when I lived in Providence and did fine. I've known friends who lived there as adults sans car. It depends on where you work, but downtown and the east side are supremely walkable. Bus service is pretty good too. If you work downtown, you can easily live in the very-pleasant East Side (up college hill) and get a bus that goes downtown frequently. The hate on 95 is also a little weird - there's not a lot of reason to be up on 95 if you live in/close to Providence. Honestly it's probably helpful to have a car, but even if you have one you won't need to organize your entire life around it and spend tons of time driving everywhere. The city's just not big enough for that to be likely.
posted by heresiarch at 6:48 AM on July 8, 2011

Go for it! The biggest problem I have living in Providence is finding employment, but you already have a job. :)

Another neighborhood suggestion: check out the area around the Armory, between Parade St and Messer St. Very historical, but somehow still totally affordable. Diverse and not gentrified, beautiful tree lined streets and everyone seems to have a gorgeous garden. My partner and I pay 650/mo for a HUGE 3 bedroom apartment. It is definitely more of a working class vibe than the East side is. I relate much better.
posted by supernaturelle at 1:11 PM on July 8, 2011

Response by poster: Thanks everyone, really helpful! I've accepted the job, I may be passing some of you on the street soon :)
posted by geegollygosh at 9:53 PM on July 8, 2011

I'm leaving Providence in a few weeks, but not because I don't love the hell out of my weird little city - but because my husband got a job elsewhere.

I second the Armory in terms of neighborhoods. I live downtown and miss the hell out of the Armory. Hudson St. Market (which is now Hudson St. Deli) has some of the greatest sandwiches on the planet. The houses in that area are mostly big old Victorians that have been converted to apartments and it's got a very funky vibe.

The outdoors... well, that depends on what you count as "outdoors." I'm from Vermont and find it pretty rough to get "outdoors" in RI (though Kattullus' suggestion of Purgatory Chasm is a good one). However, there are umpteen thousand beaches which is wonderful. I especially recommend Galilee and Horseneck Beach (which is actually in MA, but as you'll find out - you end up in MA should you drive so much as 10 minutes east).

You certainly can get by without a car. I did for years. I needed a car for work and certainly don't mind having it, but it's not a necessity.

If you're at all crafty, there's an active Stitch and Bitch group which is where I've met some of my closest friends. There's also a kickball league, if that's your scene. I've never had problems meeting people in PVD.

The RISD art museum is one of the nicest small museums I've been to and the MFA in Boston is only an hour away. There are also a ton of galleries (AS220 being a great one for the whole "meeting people" thing as they also have music and a little restaurant) - the art scene is just in general pretty awesome.

(I absolutely do not recommend living downcity, but if you're on a budget you probably don't want to do so anyway. I live above an Irish bar and across from a strip club and it is LOUD AS ALL HELL. Also, crime in the downcity area has absolutely gone up over the past year or two, which pretty much sucks.)
posted by sonika at 5:25 PM on July 14, 2011