Oh, Savannah!
February 1, 2011 3:20 PM   Subscribe

My husband-to-be has suggested Savannah as a honeymoon location. He has a friend down there; we enjoy exploring and going to cool places and eating good food and being near the ocean. (Not sunbathing, just dunking our feet and hanging out, maybe riding a boat.) Tell me more, MeFites!

We'd be coming from Madison, WI (Milwaukee or Chicago also possible airports). Our plan is to get married on Saturday, 9/10/11, have a second reception in Iowa the following Saturday and have a small but nice honeymoon in between. So we'd probably leave on Sunday afternoon or Monday, returning late Thursday or early Friday. I imagine we'd get a car.

--Where should we fly into? Atlanta seems crazy busy and too much of a drive, but can we really avoid it as a hub? Is Charleston, Hilton Head or Jacksonville a better option?
--Along those lines, should we consider spending some time in Charleston or similar?
--Where should we stay? I've seen the Bed and Breakfasts of Savannah places (Marshall House, Kehoe House, East Bay Inn, Gastonian, Olde Harbour Inn, Eliza Thompson House); are some better than others or more affordable? Anywhere else? (I hate impersonal chain hotel rooms, but we don't need a super-foofy suite.)
--We're not really bar or clubbing people, but aside from checking the local calendar, are there other general things that are fun to do in the evening -- or places we should avoid for a preponderance of open containers?
--Which walking tours, etc. are worth doing, and which should we avoid?
--What's the weather like at that time of year -- sticky and awful, or better than July or August?

Any other suggestions for things to do in the area (anywhere in a two-hour radius, especially between Savannah and an airport) are very welcome, as I've never been in the South. I've seen this thread, and others.

Thanks!
posted by Madamina to Travel & Transportation around Savannah, GA (14 answers total) 8 users marked this as a favorite
 
You should fly into the Savannah/HHI airport (which will almost certainly be a connected flight through ATL) and rent a car to get around, unless your friend is willing to drive you everywhere. If you want to save money on tickets, you should fly into Jacksonville. The (three hour) drive to Savannah isn't too bad. You really do not want to fly into Atlanta and drive from there to Savannah. It's way too far away and Atlanta has crappy traffic.

I think there's a direct flight O'Hare to Savannah, but I've never taken it myself. Something you might want to look into.

Personally, I think it's always sticky and awful in Savannah, but that's why I moved to Chicago. Hooray, blizzards! If you sunburn easily, make sure to take lots of sunscreen. Savannah has a lot more sun exposure than the Midwest.

The trolley tours are pretty decent. I've never done any walking tours. If you're into National Parks, Fort Pulaski is pretty cool. You can swing by there on the way to the beach (Tybee).
posted by phunniemee at 3:37 PM on February 1, 2011


There is a direct flight on United from O'Hare, but it's also really rather painless to fly through Atlanta.

For all other Savannah-related things, let me quote phunnniemee:

Personally, I think it's always sticky and awful in Savannah, but that's why I moved to Chicago.

Perhaps someone who loves Savannah much more than I do will have better advice for you.
posted by onepot at 3:50 PM on February 1, 2011


Hi, I I live in Savannah. The big question is how do you deal with humidity? If it kills you, then you might want to rethink Sept 10 in Savannah, as the heat and humidity can still be brutal to those who are delicate flowers.

--Where should we fly into? Atlanta seems crazy busy and too much of a drive, but can we really avoid it as a hub? Is Charleston, Hilton Head or Jacksonville a better option?

It's extremely doubtful you can avoid it as hub. But if you plan now, you should be able to minimize the layover.

--Along those lines, should we consider spending some time in Charleston or similar?

Yes, Charleston is lovely and only 2-3 hours away, a perfect day trip.

--Where should we stay? I've seen the Bed and Breakfasts of Savannah places (Marshall House, Kehoe House, East Bay Inn, Gastonian, Olde Harbour Inn, Eliza Thompson House); are some better than others or more affordable? Anywhere else? (I hate impersonal chain hotel rooms, but we don't need a super-foofy suite.)

It's your honeymoon, go for the bed and breakfast! That said, I'm not familiar with them, as relatives and friends just stay with me. I recommend that you stay in one downtown, as Savannah is a very walkable city and you really get a flavor for the history of the place by walking it. I've heard good things about the Gastonian. The Desoto Hilton is more a traditional hotel that's also located downtown, may (or may not!) be cheaper. The Thunderbird Inn is retro-esque place, but not as shady as it you may think or it may look

--We're not really bar or clubbing people, but aside from checking the local calendar, are there other general things that are fun to do in the evening -- or places we should avoid for a preponderance of open containers?

River Street can be a bit much later in the evening, but otherwise is fine, you really should see it at least once. There are plenty of places with an outdoor and patio where you can linger, along with some music. Same goes for Tybee places on the beach.

--Which walking tours, etc. are worth doing, and which should we avoid?

The ghost tour is fun, there's a walking one and one with redone hearse.

--What's the weather like at that time of year -- sticky and awful, or better than July or August?

I like the humidity and thrive in it somewhat. That said, by September, I'm sort of exhausted from it, as its been instense for 3 months and hasn't abated at all. AT ALL. Make of that what you will.

If you have another questions, let me know!
posted by Brandon Blatcher at 4:16 PM on February 1, 2011 [1 favorite]


My friend and I did an impromptu trip to Savannah because AirTran had cheap tickets one weekend. ATL wasn't a bad transfer hub. The B&B we stayed at was lovely (although I might choose one that was more downtown next time). We rented a convertible and drove up to Charleston for dinner one night, liked the trolley tours in Savannah, and loved driving out to the beach. Just walking the historic district after the trolley tour was a treat!
posted by ldthomps at 5:16 PM on February 1, 2011


Hey there Brandon. I used to live in Savannah, too.

OP -- as everyone else said, it WILL be humid in September. I first arrived in Savannah in October and pretty much melted as soon as I walked out of the airport (I'm from California.) Drink a ton of water, dress appropriately, and sit inside a lot - all the shops and restaurants will be cranking the AC and you can recover a bit before going back outside.

Downtown Savannah is very pretty. Walk up and down Broughton St, maybe take a picnic to Forsyth Park, and then around dinner time you can eat and then walk around River Street. The next day you could do Fort Pulaski (it's low-key but very cool - on Saturdays they still shoot the cannons for visitors.) Oatland Island is on the way there and it's also amazing if you like woods and animals and marshes. BRING BUG SPRAY. Continue on to Tybee, it's very serene and walkable and peaceful.

The next day you could easily take a day trip to Charleston. Or, Jacksonville is only about 2.5 hours south of Savannah, and many big-name artists will have concerts there instead of Savannah, if you're into that.

SCAD has a firm grip on downtown Savannah and thusly there are LOTS of events - not sure when their school year starts, but I remember mobs of people at "Culture Fest" in October and the Film Festival in November, so there might be some stuff in Sept.

If you want to venture outside of downtown (Oatland, Fort Pulaski, Tybee, the many many cemeteries) DEFINITELY rent the car. All the hotels are downtown though, so if you stay down there you could get by walking places. Also - if the college kids are back then almost every downtown bar turns into a "college bar" at night. And that spills out into the streets, what with the open container laws. I once saw a couple (20ish) having sex. Outside, in the street.

Get some seafood for SURE. Paula Deen's is skippable, I dunno why people wait hours in line for that place. I think the ghost tours are kind of cheesy, but if you've never done anything like it before, it can be fun. There are tons of maps and guides and brochures that you will be able to pick up as soon as you hit town. But for normal stuff, like stuff the locals actually do -- grab the *Savannah Connect* and read it front to back!
posted by polly_dactyl at 5:22 PM on February 1, 2011


If you even sort of like seafood, go to The Crab Shack on Tybee Island. It's in the middle of this sketchy neighborhood of trailers and cinderblock houses, but it is SO tasty and the atmosphere is really laid back.
posted by chiababe at 6:15 PM on February 1, 2011 [1 favorite]


You might want to check out this site:

http://savannah.for91days.com/2011/01/23/happy-2011-in-savannah/

There are a lot of ideas for looking around Savannah.
posted by Old Geezer at 6:18 PM on February 1, 2011


Most of the places I was going to recommend have already been mentioned, but check out Bonaventure Cemetery and the Tybee Island lighthouse.
posted by elerina at 6:33 PM on February 1, 2011 [1 favorite]


I took Mrs. Fleebnork to Savannah for a long weekend for her birthday a couple years ago. Feel free to browse our photos here.

We stayed at the Hamilton-Turner Inn, which was on the spendy side for a B&B, but everything was top notch. Excellent service, excellent rooms.

If you do stay in the historic district, be aware that you can take Pedicabs, which are a pleasant way to travel and will save you a lot of hassle from parking.

Do have dinner at Alligator Soul. I can also recommend Sapphire Grill. Those are both on the spendy side, but well worth the money if you're looking for great food.
posted by Fleebnork at 6:41 PM on February 1, 2011


Definitely stay in a B&B in the historic district! They often have afternoon tea, but of course afternoon tea is sweet (iced) tea -- yum. Also, it's no fun to be in Savannah and have to drive into town. From the historic district, you walk through the lovely squares and to restaurants and cafes and such. You might be able to find some less expensive rooms for September. Find a few that sound nice and call and ask. Some are fancy, yes, but some just have regular-sized rooms.

If you go, read Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil first, then watch the movie. Savannah is extra fun if you've already absorbed some local flavor through reading. I do recommend the ghost walk. It's more like a historic walk with great stories.

As for Charleston: it's also a nice town, though I do like Savannah better. But don't plan a day trip until you see if you need something else to do. Three nights is a pretty quick trip, and you might be pretty beat after the wedding. So take it easy, stroll through down, stay in a nice B&B, and just take it a day at a time.
posted by bluedaisy at 9:07 PM on February 1, 2011 [1 favorite]


Definitely go to Charleston as well, even stay over a night if you feel like it. I liked it more than Savannah.
posted by thorny at 11:20 PM on February 1, 2011


--Which walking tours, etc. are worth doing, and which should we avoid?

I'd say avoid anything with a gimick, especially ghosts if you're not into a lot of cheese and BS. There's horse-drawn carriage tours and pedicab tours as well.

But the Historic District is very compact and pedestrian-friendly if you can tolerate the muggy weather. You can likely get the same thing from a good map and a book.

Local gossip is that Paula Deen's is a good restauraunt, but overrated unless you really want to say that you've been there.
posted by KirkJobSluder at 9:08 AM on February 2, 2011


Visiting Hilton Head is worth the short drive. We were there in April and it was too cold to swim but it was nice wading and hanging out weather. There were tons of sand dollars and other animals making the little holes in the beach sand.
posted by soelo at 2:32 PM on February 2, 2011


Late to the party... I grew up in Chicago but lived on Hilton Head for a year and a half.. I always flew direct on United between ORD and Savannah/HHI.

I've visited Savannah and Charleston a lot - I prefer Savannah and loooove walking around the parks and looking at the monuments. My favorite is the Casimir Pulaski statue.. and not entirely because I used to get Casimir Pulaski day off of school in Chicago. Mostly but not entirely.

One thing to consider - any interest of flying into and out of different airports? Like into Savannah for two or three nights, then to HHI for a night, and then on to Charleston for another night? It'll let you see the low country and you'll be able to see two gorgeous cities with a relaxing beach day in the middle. HHI is great for being by the water - miles and miles of wide beaches to walk on (or rent a beach cruiser bike), kayak tours if that's your thing, and various boat excursions are available. I am not advising it over Savannah but if you want an escape and don't want to spend time driving between SAV and Charleston, HHI is a decent relaxing option.
posted by adorap0621 at 9:35 PM on February 5, 2011


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