Looking for advice and anecdotes on going to Japan during the rainy season.
January 16, 2011 7:36 AM   Subscribe

We're planning a trip to go to Japan, and I'm wondering if it would be worth it to go during tsuyu (the rainy season). We'd be mainly based in Kyoto for the days we're there. Looking for some advice and anecdotal stories, and whether you think it'd be worth it.

We're looking at being outside mostly when we're there, going through temples and Arashiyama and the like. For reference, we're currently contemplating whether we can/should go in June, July or August. I lived in Japan for four months (late Aug-Dec) several years back, so I know what it's like in the late summer. Here are my questions:

- Is the humidity really that horrendous? I live in NYC so I know what stifling humidity feels like. How would the humidity in June compare to say, mid August?

- Am I correct in thinking that it doesn't rain every day? And when we say "rain" here, does that mean "light misting" or "torrential downpour"? And how does this coincide with typhoon season?

- Do most people stay indoors during the rainy season, and we would be the only weirdos walking through the streets?

- Honestly, how bad is it overall? Would you recommend traveling there during the rainy season?

(Oh, and I did see this post, but I'm looking for a bit more info; also that question was mainly about Tokyo, and we're looking at Kyoto.)
posted by gchucky to Travel & Transportation around Japan (9 answers total) 1 user marked this as a favorite
 
I find that the humidity is bad at first, but within a few days you do get used to it. YMMV though.

- Am I correct in thinking that it doesn't rain every day? And when we say "rain" here, does that mean "light misting" or "torrential downpour"? And how does this coincide with typhoon season?

Yes, it does not necessarily rain every day during rainy season. When it does though, it is usually incessant for 2-3 days in Kyoto, though it may be longer.

- Do most people stay indoors during the rainy season, and we would be the only weirdos walking through the streets?

It's only rain. Life goes on as usual.
posted by Juso No Thankyou at 8:01 AM on January 16, 2011


In my experience (Osaka Nagoya Tokyo), Japan is gorgeous in the rain. So there's that.

And no, the humidity's no worse than Manhattan. Mainly misting or morning plinking, during my times, for a few days at a time, and then a few days of clear (though often gray) skies.
posted by rokusan at 8:22 AM on January 16, 2011


My first trip to Japan was at the end of May 2006, which happened to overlap with an early rainy season. We had a couple of days in Kyoto which were pouring rain, and we dragged ourselves out to the temples anyway. It was fantastic - no lineups, no tourists. I still remember sitting on the outdoor walkway in Kennin-ji, rain streaming off of the eaves, watching the beautiful zen garden glistening - I wouldn't have traded that rainy day for any 'better' weather.

And of course, if you get tired of rain, there's probably a covered shopping street nearby - head down to Osaka and walk 20 blocks down Shinsaibashi-suji, where you only need to open your umbrella when you have to cross the street.
posted by Gortuk at 8:51 AM on January 16, 2011


It rained one and a half of the days I was in Kyoto this past year, and I found it to be utterly miserable. The attractions were still relatively crowded (I think it was a holiday weekend), and while it was easy to get umbrellas we were just soaked all the time. Wet wet feet, which we had to slip in and out of shoes all the time. Waiting in the rain for the bus. Trudging through the rain. It wasn't torrential by any means, but it was the kind of steady, moderate rain that just wears you down after being out in it for a few hours.
You are going to be doing a lot of walking and bus-riding in kyoto unless you are rich enough to afford taking taxis everywhere ($$$$). It's not like NYC where you really can get out of the rain into the subway (or taxis), under overhangs, into and out of shops and big indoor attractions. The best attractions in kyoto are outside, gardens and such. Not fun. Do not recommend if you can avoid it.
posted by ch1x0r at 9:00 AM on January 16, 2011


Response by poster: I should've specified this in the main post, but when I lived there I was in Kyoto, so I'm very familiar with the city. I know at least one afternoon will be spent walking down Teramachi.
posted by gchucky at 9:21 AM on January 16, 2011


I got a grant to go study gardens in Kyoto & Tokyo during the rainy season. It rained a lot, but most of the time I didn't even need an umbrella. More of a mist. I did carry an umbrella all of the time and dressed in layers. The weather changes constantly throughout the day.

And the temple gardens are gorgeous and amazing in that weather. My pictures are awesome; a trip during the rainy season is spectacular.
posted by Kronur at 10:13 AM on January 16, 2011


If your choices are June, July or August, you had best choose June, as July and August are very very hot.

It's really supposed to rain every day during the rainy season, but climate change has really affected the weather, especially over the past ten years. If there's rain, there's more of it. If there's no rain, it's very hot.

I visited family near Kyoto for the month of June last year, and it rained quite a bit. Earlier in the month, sunny days averaged in the mid-20s. Towards the end of the month and the beginning of July, the temperature remained constant at about 30 degrees, and it was very humid.

We had a car, so traveling around in the rain wasn't a problem, although our feet would often get soaked from just walking in the rain. We visited Nara in the rain (it always seems to be raining when we go there), which was not ideal, as Nara is intended for walking.

Anyway, just take an umbrella and a towel to wipe off the sweat. Try to get a good view of the green green hills by traveling to Uji or Ohara or Enryakuji.
posted by KokuRyu at 10:59 AM on January 16, 2011


I think the humidity can be pretty oppressive as it just never lets up here. It will rain and while in most places the humidity will go down after rain, it just sticks around in Japan. (I grew up in Florida, and I know crap humidity.) June will be your best choice, the earlier the better. I think whether the weather is good or not is kind of a crapshoot--I've been in Japan for 4 summers overall, and 3 were pretty awful and one was pretty nice, actually.

I think waterproof shoes would be the things that I would want the most. Wellies can be a little hot and gross, and I wouldn't want flipflops for walking around Kyoto. I actually have a pair of crocs which I use just for summer rainy-day footwear. Some people say they can get pretty gross when wet, but I like them because they can dry out quickly, and they're easy to get on and off. If you're wandering around and having to take off your shoes a lot (which seems likely in Kyoto), you can wipe off your feet and shoes easily with a hand-towel. I will wear a pair of quick-drying very low-cut socks makes for ballet flats with them to make them feel less sticky. For guys my method may not work as well.
posted by that girl at 4:30 PM on January 16, 2011


I am writing from Kyoto. Last year the rainy season was really torrential in Kyoto, with persistent heavy rain for sometimes 2-3 days at a stretch with no letup, literally. This came after a mild season the year before. Then the summer was the hottest ever in Japan, and now we are having a very cold winter with significant snow in Kyoto, which is unusual. Everyone says the Kyoto summer is worse than other places in Japan, with very high humidity and temperatures in the basin (mountains on three sides).

I would agree that mid to early June would be your best bet, hopefully get here before the tsuyu starts. Of course, really sultry summer weather has its advantages, such as strolling with a beer in yukata of an evening (no open container in public laws) and the great Gion Matsuri in July, as well as summer daytime or evening dining on elegant fare on the tatami platforms over the river in Kibune, dangling your feet in the water.
posted by planetkyoto at 11:04 PM on January 17, 2011


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