Pimp my bike.
September 9, 2010 8:33 PM Subscribe
Pimp my bike. Lighten my load. Not my wallet.
I have a pretty basic bike that I bought when my job was about a mile from my house and it was fine for riding there and back. Now my job is about 10 miles from my house and getting there and back is an unpleasant chore. I can't afford a new bike. But I am willing to invest a couple of hundred bucks into this one, if it will make a difference. The bike's a single speed (freewheel, not a fixie) and I'm OK w that.
The bike specs are here. (And FWIW, if I were doing it again I'd probably buy from a local bike shop. The company was fine, but there's not much difference in price and its just better to try before you buy. Anyway...) Its stock except that I switched up to an 18T freewheel.
If you had $300 to spend, what would you do to make this bike lighter and faster? (Assume that I have basic mechanical skills and tools but anything specialized or complicated will involve a bike shop.)
For example would a carbon fork like this make a difference - reducing weight and adding some shock absorbency? (And would it fit?)
I have a pretty basic bike that I bought when my job was about a mile from my house and it was fine for riding there and back. Now my job is about 10 miles from my house and getting there and back is an unpleasant chore. I can't afford a new bike. But I am willing to invest a couple of hundred bucks into this one, if it will make a difference. The bike's a single speed (freewheel, not a fixie) and I'm OK w that.
The bike specs are here. (And FWIW, if I were doing it again I'd probably buy from a local bike shop. The company was fine, but there's not much difference in price and its just better to try before you buy. Anyway...) Its stock except that I switched up to an 18T freewheel.
If you had $300 to spend, what would you do to make this bike lighter and faster? (Assume that I have basic mechanical skills and tools but anything specialized or complicated will involve a bike shop.)
For example would a carbon fork like this make a difference - reducing weight and adding some shock absorbency? (And would it fit?)
commute via single speed? There's your problem right there.
posted by notsnot at 8:42 PM on September 9, 2010
posted by notsnot at 8:42 PM on September 9, 2010
Are you keeping the tires properly inflated and the chain lubed? Those two things make a huge difference.
Plus fit, as stated above.
posted by the_blizz at 8:44 PM on September 9, 2010
Plus fit, as stated above.
posted by the_blizz at 8:44 PM on September 9, 2010
I'm with notsnot - the top thing that will make a commute easier is gears. Weight shavings are nothing compared to that. $300 might be enough to do that, or if you sell your existing bike, to get a cheap or used bike with gears.
Gears will also make your commute safer: A commute is something you do every day, twice a day, so it's not like recreation in the weekends when you can take some risks, for a commute, even a 0.1% risk means you're odds are pretty good of being dead in a year.
Human nature is to avoid work. Single speed makes it more work change your speed. Safe commuting in traffic requires constant speed changes (even on the straights), and almost all of them you can ignore on a whim if you don't feel like doing the extra work - it's barely any risk at all, but do it every day and "barely any" becomes significant.
posted by -harlequin- at 8:53 PM on September 9, 2010 [1 favorite]
Gears will also make your commute safer: A commute is something you do every day, twice a day, so it's not like recreation in the weekends when you can take some risks, for a commute, even a 0.1% risk means you're odds are pretty good of being dead in a year.
Human nature is to avoid work. Single speed makes it more work change your speed. Safe commuting in traffic requires constant speed changes (even on the straights), and almost all of them you can ignore on a whim if you don't feel like doing the extra work - it's barely any risk at all, but do it every day and "barely any" becomes significant.
posted by -harlequin- at 8:53 PM on September 9, 2010 [1 favorite]
A carbon fork won't help. Your biggest savings come in the form of wheels, and a decent set is extremely expensive. Work on your fitness, bike fit and/or trade for another style of bike that suits you better.
If your commute is hilly, get gears.
To put the weight issue in perspective, this summer I lost the equivalent of two whole bikes worth of weight and I didn't spend a dime on light parts. In fact, I spent money on wheels that could support my former bulk. If you are at all overweight, deal with that first.
posted by klanawa at 8:53 PM on September 9, 2010 [1 favorite]
If your commute is hilly, get gears.
To put the weight issue in perspective, this summer I lost the equivalent of two whole bikes worth of weight and I didn't spend a dime on light parts. In fact, I spent money on wheels that could support my former bulk. If you are at all overweight, deal with that first.
posted by klanawa at 8:53 PM on September 9, 2010 [1 favorite]
Commuting on that bike shouldn't be a chore at all. It already has rack mounts and room for wide tires. You'll need to qualify why it's a chore - gearing appropriately for hills you have to face, getting knocked about on potholes, a result of out-of-true wheels or other mechanical issues, improper fit leaving you uncomfortable, etc.
Commuting by single speed isn't a problem, and a carbon fork is not going to solve your issues. That particular carbon fork would fit, but you would need a different kind of front brake (cantilever) to fit - it's not what you're looking for.
posted by stachemaster at 8:57 PM on September 9, 2010
Commuting by single speed isn't a problem, and a carbon fork is not going to solve your issues. That particular carbon fork would fit, but you would need a different kind of front brake (cantilever) to fit - it's not what you're looking for.
posted by stachemaster at 8:57 PM on September 9, 2010
There isn't really anything worthwhile to spend your money on, unless there is a specific part that is causing you trouble (e.g. if you hate the saddle). Weight is not a significant issue - even if you manage to save a couple pounds, you'll hardly notice the difference. Very light components are for racers, not commuters. Don't waste your money buying lighter components.
You need to focus on what makes the ride an unpleasant chore. Are your legs tired out? Change your gearing to make it easier to spin (but if your commute is hilly, then a geared drivetrain may be better for you). Are you sore and uncomfortable? Adjust your fit and replace parts if needed to get your bike to fit better.
That fork won't do you any good - it is for cyclecross bikes, which have cantilever or disc brakes. Your bike has caliper brakes. The different brake types mount to different places on the forks and the fork you link to doesn't have the proper place to mount your brakes.
posted by ssg at 9:05 PM on September 9, 2010
You need to focus on what makes the ride an unpleasant chore. Are your legs tired out? Change your gearing to make it easier to spin (but if your commute is hilly, then a geared drivetrain may be better for you). Are you sore and uncomfortable? Adjust your fit and replace parts if needed to get your bike to fit better.
That fork won't do you any good - it is for cyclecross bikes, which have cantilever or disc brakes. Your bike has caliper brakes. The different brake types mount to different places on the forks and the fork you link to doesn't have the proper place to mount your brakes.
posted by ssg at 9:05 PM on September 9, 2010
It really would help to have some further explanation of why 10 miles is a chore. Are you uncomfortable, does it take too long, is it too hard, what?
Comfort can be addressed by bike fit, first. Vibration (is that why you're looking at carbon forks?) would be better handled with tires, cushy bar tape, and/or a saddle. Hanging stuff on your body sucks on longer rides - get a rack & panniers or something.
If the ride is too hard, you probably need gearing, which starts to look like a different bike. You can't squeeze a multi-speed drivetrain into a 120mm rear triangle. Getting in shape would help, but I suspect you're already well fit if you're riding 20 miles per day on a singlespeed - that's 5000 miles per year if you ride 5 days a week, year-round. It might pay to go through your bike looking for bad bearing adjustments or other things that are robbing you of go. And if you need a new geared bike, think used - $300 isn't a bad budget for a basic used mountain bike, which makes a killer commuter with the right tires.
Bike performance parts don't seem like such a good idea. Klanawa is right that wheels are usually your best value, but performance wheels aren't a good choice for commuting. You want durability over gram-counting, definitely. Remember the rule of thumb: light, cheap, durable - you get to pick two of the three.
If the ride is taking too long, there's not much to say. There are starting to be some human/electric hybrid options, but I doubt you can afford those. Your best option is to try for an attitude adjustment. A 12-mile scenic route might be better than a 9-mile death-defying traffic fest. My brother mounted a cheap transistor radio on his handlebars - now he can listen to NPR while he rides (without headphones!).
Good luck! And stay safe out there. I really like -harlequin-'s advice on the perils of single-speed commuting. You should read that twice.
posted by richyoung at 9:17 PM on September 9, 2010
Comfort can be addressed by bike fit, first. Vibration (is that why you're looking at carbon forks?) would be better handled with tires, cushy bar tape, and/or a saddle. Hanging stuff on your body sucks on longer rides - get a rack & panniers or something.
If the ride is too hard, you probably need gearing, which starts to look like a different bike. You can't squeeze a multi-speed drivetrain into a 120mm rear triangle. Getting in shape would help, but I suspect you're already well fit if you're riding 20 miles per day on a singlespeed - that's 5000 miles per year if you ride 5 days a week, year-round. It might pay to go through your bike looking for bad bearing adjustments or other things that are robbing you of go. And if you need a new geared bike, think used - $300 isn't a bad budget for a basic used mountain bike, which makes a killer commuter with the right tires.
Bike performance parts don't seem like such a good idea. Klanawa is right that wheels are usually your best value, but performance wheels aren't a good choice for commuting. You want durability over gram-counting, definitely. Remember the rule of thumb: light, cheap, durable - you get to pick two of the three.
If the ride is taking too long, there's not much to say. There are starting to be some human/electric hybrid options, but I doubt you can afford those. Your best option is to try for an attitude adjustment. A 12-mile scenic route might be better than a 9-mile death-defying traffic fest. My brother mounted a cheap transistor radio on his handlebars - now he can listen to NPR while he rides (without headphones!).
Good luck! And stay safe out there. I really like -harlequin-'s advice on the perils of single-speed commuting. You should read that twice.
posted by richyoung at 9:17 PM on September 9, 2010
Put your money into a cheap used 21 speed. Accessorizing your existing bike with fancy forks or lighter wheels is just polishing a turd. You'll never overcome the basic principles of force/leverage without adding more gears.
posted by bonobothegreat at 9:34 PM on September 9, 2010
posted by bonobothegreat at 9:34 PM on September 9, 2010
Response by poster: Chore may have been making it sound worse than it is. Looking to make things easier for myself may have been more accurate. Nostalgia for the old commute. Weight and fitness should be fine for the ride.
But the consensus if I can summarize is that I'm better off either adjusting my attitude, adjusting the bike, or getting a new bike than I am trying to make marginal changes in weight and components. Panniers may be a really good call. Thanks.
posted by RandlePatrickMcMurphy at 9:41 PM on September 9, 2010
But the consensus if I can summarize is that I'm better off either adjusting my attitude, adjusting the bike, or getting a new bike than I am trying to make marginal changes in weight and components. Panniers may be a really good call. Thanks.
posted by RandlePatrickMcMurphy at 9:41 PM on September 9, 2010
Nthing buying a new bike. I got a pretty nice Cannondale for $275 that I've since ridden 2000+ miles on. Look on craigslist. (It took me a month or so to finally get this bike, but it was worth the wait!)
posted by 47triple2 at 9:45 PM on September 9, 2010
posted by 47triple2 at 9:45 PM on September 9, 2010
It's the bike. Donate this single-speed bike to a charity shop, and then go to a charity shop and buy a $50 ten-speed bike.
posted by gum at 9:46 PM on September 9, 2010
posted by gum at 9:46 PM on September 9, 2010
I ride 9 miles to work, sometimes with gears, sometimes fixed, and sometimes singlespeed. One gear is fine for that distance, or longer, as long as it's the right gear for you and your terrain. How's your cadence? You should be able to keep it at around 80 to 100 rpm on level ground. (For reference, "Staying Alive" and "Another One Bites the Dust" are both around 100 bpm.) Fixed gear might even help you--it's good strength training and you'll learn to pedal smoothly at high rpms. One option with a flip-flop hub is to have a lower gear on the singlespeed side, in case you tire out or have to face a brutal headwind. On a calm day, I find riding fixed easier than riding freewheel. It's sort of like cruise control, in that I work to keep up the cadence that's comfortable, but at the same time the momentum keeps my cadence steady. My commute is mostly on a path and there are hardly any hills; I don't know if I'd recommend fixed gear if it were the opposite. Contrary to -harlequin-'s warning, I've never felt that I couldn't go fast or slow, or accelerate as needed.
But before you do anything rash like that, clean and tune up your bike. Have the fit evaluated. Get some thinner tires with a psi rating that goes up to 120, like these. (Check your tire/rim width compatibility.) High pressure cuts down on the rolling resistance. Tighten your toe straps, or get clipless pedals. Go on longer rides on the weekends, and do some intervals. Get some clothes that wick; don't wear cotton. (I've been riding in jeans now that it's cooler, but I don't go anywhere without lightweight wicking underwear.)
posted by hydrophonic at 10:30 PM on September 9, 2010 [1 favorite]
But before you do anything rash like that, clean and tune up your bike. Have the fit evaluated. Get some thinner tires with a psi rating that goes up to 120, like these. (Check your tire/rim width compatibility.) High pressure cuts down on the rolling resistance. Tighten your toe straps, or get clipless pedals. Go on longer rides on the weekends, and do some intervals. Get some clothes that wick; don't wear cotton. (I've been riding in jeans now that it's cooler, but I don't go anywhere without lightweight wicking underwear.)
posted by hydrophonic at 10:30 PM on September 9, 2010 [1 favorite]
Taking a #2 before you head off is going to do more to improve your total mass than any $300 worth of components.
Where on the handlebars are you riding? If you're always on the tops or the hoods, that may be something to look in to (assuming it's safe to do so). Even at the end of a 60 mile ride I find I can pick up an extra 3-4 mph getting on the drops - it's more aerodynamic and helps work the leg muscles differently.
Your money might best be spent on a proper bike fitting ($75-$150) to ensure you're in an efficient, aerodynamic body posture. A great benefit of this is that you can record your measurements and "re-use" them on a future bike, plus you'll be reducing your risk of injury.
posted by 0xFCAF at 11:37 PM on September 9, 2010
Where on the handlebars are you riding? If you're always on the tops or the hoods, that may be something to look in to (assuming it's safe to do so). Even at the end of a 60 mile ride I find I can pick up an extra 3-4 mph getting on the drops - it's more aerodynamic and helps work the leg muscles differently.
Your money might best be spent on a proper bike fitting ($75-$150) to ensure you're in an efficient, aerodynamic body posture. A great benefit of this is that you can record your measurements and "re-use" them on a future bike, plus you'll be reducing your risk of injury.
posted by 0xFCAF at 11:37 PM on September 9, 2010
It looks like the bike in the stock photo there has quite a high gear. If yours is similar, it might be worth experimenting with a lower gear, by getting either a chainring with less teeth than what you have right now or a freewheel with more. This might necessitate a new chain also.
It is very very common for people to have a higher gearing than necessary on a single-speed bike, and decreasing it even by a little can make a world of difference. You'll accelerate from a standstill and maintain your speed more easily, and your knees will be less (or not at all) sore at the end of the ride.
posted by chmmr at 5:10 AM on September 10, 2010
It is very very common for people to have a higher gearing than necessary on a single-speed bike, and decreasing it even by a little can make a world of difference. You'll accelerate from a standstill and maintain your speed more easily, and your knees will be less (or not at all) sore at the end of the ride.
posted by chmmr at 5:10 AM on September 10, 2010
First, make sure you bike is set up correctly. I used this guide and it worked for me. Although you're not on drops it should give you some good tips.
Second, tyres. Get some decent tyres, slicks for preference if the weather allows, and a decent floor pump with a gauge. Looks like yours will only go to 85 psi? If you've got the 700C ones you can probably get something that will go to a decent pressure (110~120 psi) which will make a big difference to your rolling resistance.
Thirdly, saddle. Biggest difference I found when I jumped from 6 miles each way to 13 miles each way was, to be blunt, the perineum pain. I had a fairly big saddle and, counter intuitively, going to a narrower racing saddle made a big difference. If you go down that route, go for padded shorts.
Other than components, try varying your route if you can, it certainly makes a huge difference to my commute having several options I can go on any one day (long straight road, twisty back lane, steep up hill, through the park). Also try going for longer distances two or three days a week, it'll help your conditioning.
Finally, remember cycling is supposed to be fun! If you wake up one morning and decide you just can't face it that day, then don't! Jump in the car/on the bus and get to work some other way. The day after you'll be more than up for a spin on the bike.
Good luck
posted by fatfrank at 6:13 AM on September 10, 2010 [1 favorite]
Second, tyres. Get some decent tyres, slicks for preference if the weather allows, and a decent floor pump with a gauge. Looks like yours will only go to 85 psi? If you've got the 700C ones you can probably get something that will go to a decent pressure (110~120 psi) which will make a big difference to your rolling resistance.
Thirdly, saddle. Biggest difference I found when I jumped from 6 miles each way to 13 miles each way was, to be blunt, the perineum pain. I had a fairly big saddle and, counter intuitively, going to a narrower racing saddle made a big difference. If you go down that route, go for padded shorts.
Other than components, try varying your route if you can, it certainly makes a huge difference to my commute having several options I can go on any one day (long straight road, twisty back lane, steep up hill, through the park). Also try going for longer distances two or three days a week, it'll help your conditioning.
Finally, remember cycling is supposed to be fun! If you wake up one morning and decide you just can't face it that day, then don't! Jump in the car/on the bus and get to work some other way. The day after you'll be more than up for a spin on the bike.
Good luck
posted by fatfrank at 6:13 AM on September 10, 2010 [1 favorite]
Don't buy the forks for the reasons that others have given.
It's a tall gear, 81" using Sheldon's gear calculator, which would be more than I'd be happier riding unless the road was dead flat.
You might find it more comfortable to drop the gear by replacing the rear cog, an 18 tooth cog would give you something in the low 70s which would be considerably more comfortable.
If you wanted to experiment you could get a couple of dirt-cheap cogs from someone like Dicta, the more upmarket (but still reasonable) Andel are a good brand.
Hydrophonic's suggestion to get newer thinner tyres that will take a higher pressure is a good one. Again, Sheldon.
posted by SyntacticSugar at 6:30 AM on September 10, 2010
It's a tall gear, 81" using Sheldon's gear calculator, which would be more than I'd be happier riding unless the road was dead flat.
You might find it more comfortable to drop the gear by replacing the rear cog, an 18 tooth cog would give you something in the low 70s which would be considerably more comfortable.
If you wanted to experiment you could get a couple of dirt-cheap cogs from someone like Dicta, the more upmarket (but still reasonable) Andel are a good brand.
Hydrophonic's suggestion to get newer thinner tyres that will take a higher pressure is a good one. Again, Sheldon.
posted by SyntacticSugar at 6:30 AM on September 10, 2010
Hate to say it, but 20 miles a day will simply be a significantly bigger chore than two. No amount of gears or reasonable modifications will really change that.
If you have hills, gears will definitely help. That'll probably mean a new bike, unless you manage to find a rear wheel with an internally geared hub (like an old 3 speed, etc) to drop in. Which I think would be unlikely.
With the existing bike, perhaps a more upright riding position might help? This might entail some kind of stem extender and/or different handlebars and possibly a wider saddle to cushion the increased load on the behind.
My single speed commuter, used occasionally for 10 mile commutes, used a 63 gear inch drivetrain and 27" wheels. It's set up with a very upright riding position. This was a pretty easy going all around gear for the occasional small hill, but might be too slow for you. However, it was one of those things where I simply budget a little more time and take things more slowly. Ridden this way, it was a breeze.
posted by 2N2222 at 8:03 AM on September 10, 2010
If you have hills, gears will definitely help. That'll probably mean a new bike, unless you manage to find a rear wheel with an internally geared hub (like an old 3 speed, etc) to drop in. Which I think would be unlikely.
With the existing bike, perhaps a more upright riding position might help? This might entail some kind of stem extender and/or different handlebars and possibly a wider saddle to cushion the increased load on the behind.
My single speed commuter, used occasionally for 10 mile commutes, used a 63 gear inch drivetrain and 27" wheels. It's set up with a very upright riding position. This was a pretty easy going all around gear for the occasional small hill, but might be too slow for you. However, it was one of those things where I simply budget a little more time and take things more slowly. Ridden this way, it was a breeze.
posted by 2N2222 at 8:03 AM on September 10, 2010
Your bike is not a turd. A $50 thrift-store 10-speed would be a turd and you would regret it after a month when it needs its first tune-up. Single-speeds are by their nature more efficient than comparable geared bikes. Unless your ride is hilly, your bike is fine.
Your money would be better off (in order from least to most expensive) with:
-- Full chain degrease and relube
-- A new chain
-- A new, higher-tooth freewheel
-- A bike pump that is easy enough to use that you can get the proper pressure every morning
-- A proper bike shop tuneup (chain cleaning, hub greasing, general tightening)
-- A new crankset (probably fewer teeth)
-- A new set of road tires
-- A new saddle, which you should have fit to your "sit bones"
-- A bike fitting
-- A new set of wheels with road tires
Also, what kind of pedals do you use? Platforms without clips are really inefficient. I recommend inexpensive SPD pedals like this plus vaguely normal-looking MTB shoes like these. Really really helpful.
posted by supercres at 8:24 AM on September 10, 2010 [2 favorites]
Your money would be better off (in order from least to most expensive) with:
-- Full chain degrease and relube
-- A new chain
-- A new, higher-tooth freewheel
-- A bike pump that is easy enough to use that you can get the proper pressure every morning
-- A proper bike shop tuneup (chain cleaning, hub greasing, general tightening)
-- A new crankset (probably fewer teeth)
-- A new set of road tires
-- A new saddle, which you should have fit to your "sit bones"
-- A bike fitting
-- A new set of wheels with road tires
Also, what kind of pedals do you use? Platforms without clips are really inefficient. I recommend inexpensive SPD pedals like this plus vaguely normal-looking MTB shoes like these. Really really helpful.
posted by supercres at 8:24 AM on September 10, 2010 [2 favorites]
I'm with the people who have already said that if your bike is in good working order and properly maintained, there's not much you can do to make it faster.
You can make the commute more comfortable. If you don't have racks and panniers, get them (at least a rear rack). Your bike has brazeons for racks, and it's a lot easier on your back to have your bike carry the load. Plus using panniers will lower the center of gravity. I use an Arkel briefcase/laptop bag that has pannier hooks on the back.
You can also increase your comfort by getting wider tires, not narrower tires, and riding them at a lower pressure. It's a widely believed myth that skinny, high-pressure tires make a bike faster. In real-world riding conditions, wider tires run at a lower pressure are often better. See this article by Jan Heine in Bicycle Quarterly for a discussion. Wide tires run at the appropriate pressure absorb suspension losses, which more than compensates for any increased rolling resistance in the real world.
Fenders are worth adding, too. You can get lightweight plastic fenders from Planet Bike, or equally lightweight but more durable (and more expensive) multilayer ones from SKS. Fenders keep you dry in the rain--and as Bike Snob NYC says, in an urban commute you can be sure that some of what sprays up on you is not just water. Plus fenders protect your drivetrain from road grit, which will greatly extend its life. My 9-speed chain has nearly 4000 miles on it and it is still well within spec, not because I clean it very often but because the fenders and mudflap keep a lot of crud off the chain in the first place.
Finally, I'm a contrarian when it comes to clipless pedals and shoes. That may be because my feet are oddly shaped and I've not yet found bike shoes that are comfortable. But I've done a 200K ride (in one day) on platform pedals in trainers, and today I did a 35-mile ride in sandals on platform pedals and kept up with two friends who were using clipless. (And I was riding a steel touring bike with racks and fenders, and 35 mm wide tires; they were on skinny tired road bikes.)
posted by brianogilvie at 2:13 PM on September 10, 2010
You can make the commute more comfortable. If you don't have racks and panniers, get them (at least a rear rack). Your bike has brazeons for racks, and it's a lot easier on your back to have your bike carry the load. Plus using panniers will lower the center of gravity. I use an Arkel briefcase/laptop bag that has pannier hooks on the back.
You can also increase your comfort by getting wider tires, not narrower tires, and riding them at a lower pressure. It's a widely believed myth that skinny, high-pressure tires make a bike faster. In real-world riding conditions, wider tires run at a lower pressure are often better. See this article by Jan Heine in Bicycle Quarterly for a discussion. Wide tires run at the appropriate pressure absorb suspension losses, which more than compensates for any increased rolling resistance in the real world.
Fenders are worth adding, too. You can get lightweight plastic fenders from Planet Bike, or equally lightweight but more durable (and more expensive) multilayer ones from SKS. Fenders keep you dry in the rain--and as Bike Snob NYC says, in an urban commute you can be sure that some of what sprays up on you is not just water. Plus fenders protect your drivetrain from road grit, which will greatly extend its life. My 9-speed chain has nearly 4000 miles on it and it is still well within spec, not because I clean it very often but because the fenders and mudflap keep a lot of crud off the chain in the first place.
Finally, I'm a contrarian when it comes to clipless pedals and shoes. That may be because my feet are oddly shaped and I've not yet found bike shoes that are comfortable. But I've done a 200K ride (in one day) on platform pedals in trainers, and today I did a 35-mile ride in sandals on platform pedals and kept up with two friends who were using clipless. (And I was riding a steel touring bike with racks and fenders, and 35 mm wide tires; they were on skinny tired road bikes.)
posted by brianogilvie at 2:13 PM on September 10, 2010
Oh, on reflection, there's one more possibility: you might be able to add a 3-speed internally geared hub to the rear. You'd need a wheelbuilder to build the wheel, unless you want to learn to do it yourself, but a Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub (S-RF3) costs about $10. Harris Cyclery sells a wheel with that hub for $150 (it's a 26" rim but a 700C rim should cost about the same). The axle spacing on the SA 3-speed hub is 127 mm, and since your bike has a steel frame, a competent mechanic should be able to cold set (i.e., bend) the chainstays and seatstays to accommodate the hub. You'd need to use clamp-on cable guides (unless you were OK with zip ties) since the frame doesn't have any. You'd also probably need to have a mechanic adjust the chain line. SA makes several shifters for this hub, including a bar-end shifter. (SRAM also makes a 3-speed hub but it requires 130 mm axle spacing, and those 3 millimeters might make the difference between success and failure.)
The SA three-speed hub would give you a low gear for hills, a middle gear for level ground, and a high gear for descending (or for when you just want to go fast).
If you're interested in going this route, find a bike shop in the DC area (if you're still there--your profile gives it as your location) that builds wheels or has a wheelbuilder and that deals in Sturmey Archer hubs. Talk to them about whether it's feasible. If it is, it would probably make a huge difference, unless your commute is flat as a pancake.
posted by brianogilvie at 2:40 PM on September 10, 2010
The SA three-speed hub would give you a low gear for hills, a middle gear for level ground, and a high gear for descending (or for when you just want to go fast).
If you're interested in going this route, find a bike shop in the DC area (if you're still there--your profile gives it as your location) that builds wheels or has a wheelbuilder and that deals in Sturmey Archer hubs. Talk to them about whether it's feasible. If it is, it would probably make a huge difference, unless your commute is flat as a pancake.
posted by brianogilvie at 2:40 PM on September 10, 2010
Stupid typo! A Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub, new, costs about *$100*. I dropped the final zero.
posted by brianogilvie at 2:41 PM on September 10, 2010
posted by brianogilvie at 2:41 PM on September 10, 2010
It's a tall gear, 81" using Sheldon's gear calculator, which would be more than I'd be happier riding unless the road was dead flat.
This, for sure . I commuted a similar distance to you for over3 years on a single speed (fixed) without a problem but that is definitely too high a gear, you won't be doing yourself or your knees any favours. Switching out freewheels for something in the low 70's will be cheap . (If you are feeling extravagant you could replace the front chainring with (+chain) as well so you could a lower gear on the other side of the hub).
Also I'm pretty sure the bike you linked to has track ends so you won't be able to put gears on unless you use a hub gear which may be out of your price range.
posted by tallus at 2:41 PM on September 10, 2010
This, for sure . I commuted a similar distance to you for over3 years on a single speed (fixed) without a problem but that is definitely too high a gear, you won't be doing yourself or your knees any favours. Switching out freewheels for something in the low 70's will be cheap . (If you are feeling extravagant you could replace the front chainring with (+chain) as well so you could a lower gear on the other side of the hub).
Also I'm pretty sure the bike you linked to has track ends so you won't be able to put gears on unless you use a hub gear which may be out of your price range.
posted by tallus at 2:41 PM on September 10, 2010
It's a tall gear, 81" using Sheldon's gear calculator
The stock freewheel is 16T, but the OP said he switched it out for 18T. He's got 72.0 gear inches.
posted by hydrophonic at 3:29 PM on September 10, 2010
The stock freewheel is 16T, but the OP said he switched it out for 18T. He's got 72.0 gear inches.
posted by hydrophonic at 3:29 PM on September 10, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
It's possible that some minor adjustments in fit would make it a lot more comfortable. But it's hard to guess without knowing what you're having problems with.
posted by xil at 8:37 PM on September 9, 2010