Amsterdam guided vs Paris not
February 16, 2010 1:05 PM   Subscribe

Should we go to Paris, unescorted, or to Amsterdam with a full time guide/friend?

We have a chance to spend a week in London or Paris -- but if we do we will be on our own. Making our way around, probably ending up in tourist centers because we don't know any better.

Or we can spend that same week in Amsterdam with a friend who lives there and knows the whole area well.

We are American, have limited experience in Europe (never been to any of these three places), and will be traveling with three kids. Would anyone like to argue that one choice would be better or worse than the other?
posted by crapples to Travel & Transportation (30 answers total) 2 users marked this as a favorite
 
Do you speak French?
posted by Jaltcoh at 1:07 PM on February 16, 2010


Response by poster: No - we speak english only.
posted by crapples at 1:08 PM on February 16, 2010


Also, roughly how old are your kids?
posted by Jaltcoh at 1:08 PM on February 16, 2010


Response by poster: My kids go from 15 down to 9... three total.

The issue at hand is that we've heard that London and Paris are the "best" cities to see. I don't know much about Amsterdam at all. Would it be better to see a less-great city with a guide, or a more great city without one?
posted by crapples at 1:09 PM on February 16, 2010


Oh, so you're traveling with kids? Amsterdam suddenly has one major attraction Paris does not: built-in babysitting. You can probably arrange things to leave your brood with your friend for an evening, giving you and your spouse an opportunity to go out on the town.

I'd argue that this happening at all is far more important than whether it happens in Paris or Amsterdam, and since the latter has that as an obvious possibility it's kind of a no-brainer.
posted by valkyryn at 1:10 PM on February 16, 2010


You know, it's not always awful to end up in tourist centers, especially if it's your first visit to a foreign place. I've toured extensively in France and lived there for two summers, but you can bet the first time I take my kid we're hitting the Eiffel Tower, tourists be damned.

So perhaps think about which is the place *you and your family* are most interested in visiting. If that's Amsterdam, and you have your friend to let you in on all the secret spots, great. If it's one of the other locations, do some research, get a great guidebook and HAVE FUN!
posted by BlahLaLa at 1:15 PM on February 16, 2010


OK, I would still recommend Paris because that week will be an all-out amazing cultural experience for both of you, guaranteed. Even assuming you go to all the most obvious attractions, it'll still be amazing. Amsterdam's great too, but it would require a subtler level of appreciation on the kids' part. A human tourist guide is utterly inessential -- two adults are quite capable of planning a solid week in Paris on their own. But learn some essential phrases, s'il vous plait. A quick Google of [paris kids] or [amsterdam kids] will turn up lots of resources.

Caveat: I haven't traveled anywhere in Europe with kids. If valkyryn's point is accurate, that could obviously outweigh all other concerns.
posted by Jaltcoh at 1:17 PM on February 16, 2010


Amsterdam is a cute town but a week is too long to spend there.

The other option: London and Paris is much more interesting. London has tons of things for kids of that age. As others have said, Its really not hard to plan a trip. Sure, there are touristy things but London has great resources such as London Walks which take you a bit deeper into parts of the city.

Paris is for walking and stopping in a random cafe and enjoying life in general. The boat tours on the Seine are amazing and I'd recommend them to anybody visiting Paris for the first time. It becomes easy to see why people fall in love with the city.
posted by vacapinta at 1:28 PM on February 16, 2010


If you lived in Europe and were going to the USA for the first time would you go to New York unescorted or visit Boston with a guide? That's the closest comparison I can make.

I'd personally go to London: you speak the language and there's a million things to do and see especially with kids; no shame in being touristy: in a week all you'll be able to do will be touristy anyway.
posted by lucia__is__dada at 1:29 PM on February 16, 2010 [1 favorite]


Strictly anecdotal here....I've been to London a dozen times or more, the first nine were on my own, headed there as part of personal business and just relied on my own research as to where to stay, how to decipher the Underground maps/routes, what was the best tourist-y site band for my buck, etc. My 10th trip there was courtesy of a radio contest the Mister had won and all of the accommodations, sights and meals were planned in advance. Other than the contest trip paying for pricier hotel rooms, the overall trip was basically the same as my first visit to London - a bus tour of the city seeing all the traditional landmarks. If you decide to go there on your own, do some research in advance to find reasonably-priced accommodations. Do not fear the London Underground - even if you don't study it ahead of time, once you get there it's fairly easy to learn the costs and routes, and you'll save a ton of money versus taking taxis. If you're traveling with children in tow then most package tours are probably going to be too lengthy and expensive. Pick a few sights that everyone might enjoy (a lot are free, like gazing at Big Ben or Buckingham Palace or browsing through Harrod's) and pace yourselves commuting-wise.

In both France and Holland you'll face language differences; in Amsterdam you'll have a guide, but are there enough tourist attractions to keep the entire family interested? My personal recommendation would be for London, just because of no language barrier and the kids may be more familiar the many of the landmarks (not to mention the cool wax museums and ghost tours and such.)
posted by Oriole Adams at 1:30 PM on February 16, 2010


I like Amsterdam but it does not begin to compare to the amazingness that is Paris, truly one of the great cities of the world. You can spend a week in Paris and still have loads to do. I think less so in Amsterdam.

Although valkyryn makes an excellent point. That is pretty much the only reason I would consider going to Amsterdam instead in your shoes.
posted by grouse at 1:31 PM on February 16, 2010


Adding to Amsterdam, besides the baby-sitting point: someone above pointed out that a week is too long for Amsterdam alone. I don't know if that is true or not.

But i do know that some of the most beautiful places in Europe - and the rest of the world - are outside of the major cities. If you "finish" Amsterdam, it means you have a day or two to goke at windmills and dykes, tulips and sheep, amid old city walls or castles or whatever.

Another awesome thing about Amsterdam: houseboats! If your friend can't handle five (5!) extra people, you can rent a houseboat. That is whole new levels of awesome, and may be a more comfortable option than a European-style (tiny-ass) apartment or hotel room.

(Also, don't worry about the language so much. Especially in the Netherlands. In France, put on your worst bone-jurrr to be polite, and people will miraculously start speaking English.)
posted by whatzit at 1:38 PM on February 16, 2010


London or Paris definitely are do-able and I wouldn't let the language barrier stress you out. A lot of people understand some English and a lot of people understand a lot of English. And if you run into someone who doesn't speak any English, well then you are in a big city so there are always more people coming.

Don't feel bad about tourist stuff for your first time visiting a major city. There is a good reason why most of the touristy stuff is popular. Sure some is pure pap but others are not.

I'd also agree that a week seems long for a trip to Amsterdam. For me, I'd make my decision based on what held more interest for my kids. Only you know them and I could imagine traveling with three bored or worse kids would put a damper on moods. Only you could decide if the language barrier of Paris would be seen as exotic or irritating. etc.
posted by mmascolino at 1:41 PM on February 16, 2010


Oh, here's another thing: one of the very top tourist attractions in Amsterdam is the Anne Frank house. If you go to Amsterdam, you have to go there. Or, if you don't, it's a ridiculous missed opportunity. Spending a good chunk of a day walking through a mini-museum about Nazis could be a great educational experience, but it might also be lost on a 9-year-old. I don't know -- just a thought.

Also, I agree with the above suggestion to go to London, if you're considering it. (I'm not sure why you mentioned this but didn't ask about it in your question.) People dealing with three kids and "limited experience in Europe" should err on the side of making things easier rather than harder, and it's a lot easier to get by in a new country if you're just "separated by a common language" (per the old joke about Americans and Brits) rather than actually separated by a foreign language.
posted by Jaltcoh at 1:41 PM on February 16, 2010 [1 favorite]


I would recommend Amsterdam, because while London and Paris are both amazing, all places are more amazing with someone local to show you the true side of the place. We visited Budapest briefly, and having someone local to take us a few places and make recommendations made our trip much better than it would have been otherwise. My first time to Montreal, I found little of interest because I didn't know where to go; my second time, I was shown around and discovered a whole city I hadn't seen before, because it was tucked off the main thoroughfares.

That said, if you decide on either of the other two, you should not have any trouble getting by with just English in either Paris or London. If you have a good French phrase book, you should be just fine; we got by in Slovakia with only the Slovak phrases for "please", "thank-you" and "I'm sorry/excuse me". Those phrases are also all you will need to say in London.

A very good guidebook -- like something from the Eyewitness series -- can make your trip much easier to plan and much more fun and rewarding. We used the Paris one, and had a wonderful time -- reading it all the way through taught me so much more about the city, and in addition to going to the obvious places (Versailles, Notre Dame), we learned about amazing things we would never have seen otherwise -- like Crypte Archéologique de Notre-Dame. It was our map to interesting parks and helped us plan around which days various museums were closed (though you will also want to check this out online). There are versions for London and Amsterdam as well -- I would get the one for Amsterdam even if you have a friend to show you around, because though locals know a great deal, they may not know all of the interesting bits of their cities. Also, they come with useful maps. The Eyewitness series is more for mainstream tourists (ie non-backpackers) than something like the Lonely Planet guides, but I liked it better -- they have a great deal of historical information on how bits of the city developed, and good descriptions of the various attractions.

Lastly, if you do end up in London, I will make a plug for the London Walks company -- hands down, the best tour I have ever been on anywhere. 1/4 of the price of one of those touring buses, and they will show you things that many Londoners wouldn't even know were there.
posted by jb at 1:43 PM on February 16, 2010


Paris and Amsterdam are a great contrast -- I once visited them both a few days apart, and I've spent enough time in Amsterdam to love its relative smallness by the standards of the big European capitals.

A week in Amsterdam might feel overly stretched out if you're in full-on tourist mode, and looking for "sights" every day, especially with kids. You're only a short train ride away from other Dutch cities, but again, it's whether there's enough there to keep them amused.

On the other hand, my extended family stayed outside Paris one summer, and they found that their visits into the city with kids were pretty draining -- navigating the Metro, dealing with the language, getting drinks, toilet breaks and so on -- and they ended up seeing and doing a lot less than they wanted to. The same logistical issues -- if not language ones -- might apply to London.

How old are the kids? How much have they travelled? Would you feel comfortable putting them on a bike?
posted by holgate at 1:47 PM on February 16, 2010


Likem Jaltcoh said learn, don't worry about language, learn a few phrases, like please, thankyou, Do you speak English, Can I please have (followed by pointing) etc. and you should be good, (though do still expect to run into people who don't speak english).
So I wouldnt let that affect your decision.

Some with the guide, you will find plenty of things to do on you own. And there is a reason places become tourist sites.

As for where to go, I would recommend Amsterdam. Amsterdam is great to walk around, and I found lots of stuff to do there. The canels and streets are beautiful, they city is calmer, and the people are really friendly. I think kids aged 9-15 will get a lot out of it. Also if your friend has a car, you will easily be able to day trips, and will be able to see some great stuff around Amsterdam. And you can't beat free baby sitting.

Also (and this is just my personal opinion) I found Amsterdam to be a real suprise, I kinda felt like I was making a personal discovery. Paris and London are in books, movies, tv shows. I allready had opinions about them, but Amsterdam, well I didn't know really anything about Amsterdam. I didn't have any pictures in my head. It was all new.

Anyway, all three cities are brillant and you will have a great time at any.
posted by Lesium at 1:49 PM on February 16, 2010


Ah, I missed the age thing upthread. 9/10-year-olds are borderline territory when it comes to the whole London/Paris big city experience when you're in tourist mode.

If you're giving them their first big European holiday, then London or Paris deliver the goods, as long as the schedule has some breathing room. And Rick Steves, unsurprisingly, has some good advice -- take a look around the site.
posted by holgate at 1:52 PM on February 16, 2010


One thing -- if you end up wishing to spend part of the time with your friend and see either London or Paris as well, you could easily do 1-2 days in Amsterdam and then 3-5 days in London or Paris. The trains will get you between them quickly -- the Eurostar between London and Paris is only 3 hours. Europe is LITTLE.

Also, I did the research on this just a little while ago -- if you and your family plan to see a lot of museums in Paris, then the Paris Pass is really worth it (see my archeological crypt link) - you get to see almost all the musuems in the city, major and minor, for one price for a set number of days. That way you can walk in and out of them, so if you're bored you can leave one without feeling like you've wasted money, or come back to one you especially liked. But the similar pass offered for London is not a good deal -- the national museums, like the British Museum or the Museum of London (which is awesome, and better than the BM especially for kids), are all free, and even the high cost of others (The Tower of London, Westminster Abbey) isn't as much as paying for the pass.

Week-long Metro/Tube passes are always worth it for larger cities. Europe may be little, but the cities can be huge. In Paris and in London, we were on and off the transit several times a day and saved so much money because we had bought passes.
posted by jb at 1:53 PM on February 16, 2010


(Some suggestions for trips outside Amsterdam, though your guide may have other ideas.)
posted by holgate at 1:56 PM on February 16, 2010


Go for Paris. Get the Museum Pass that lets you into a lot of the museums for "free". Since you'll be there for so long you can take the time to really enjoy the museums.
posted by theichibun at 2:20 PM on February 16, 2010


Why not go to both Paris and Amsterdam? It's 3-4 hours by train between them. Or both Paris and London, again by train? You can probably fly in to one airport and out the other for not much more than a round trip ticket.

If that sounds too ambitious, I'd go to the place that interests you the most. Personally of the three I'd go to Paris in a heartbeat. Because, you know, it's Paris! French food, most beautiful city in the world, hours of walking on romantic little streets. You can spend an entire week in Paris very easily, or if you want to get out a little bit do a day trip to Versailles or Chartres or the like. Amsterdam's quite nice too, well beyond the hash-and-hookers stereotypes. A week there is too much, but you can take side day trips to Bruges, den Haag, etc. I don't know London well enough to comment.

How good a friend is this potential guide? Do you want to see them independent of the city? Will they have a lot of time to spend with you, or one quick dinner? On the flip side, are you apprehensive about travelling in Europe? There's no reason to be intimidated by Paris, but if the idea of navigating French and French culture stresses you out then the Amsterdam guide or London may be more fun.
posted by Nelson at 3:32 PM on February 16, 2010


I agree with jb and Nelson. I wouldn't spend a week with kids in Amsterdam. Go to Paris/London. Amsterdam is awesome-- get a train and go there for a few days during your trip -- that's what I did from Paris! but as others have noted above, it's just not week-long-trip-with-kid friendly.

Paris is amazing, would be totally interesting to kids, and is just pretty much the best city ever.
posted by elisabethjw at 5:04 PM on February 16, 2010


And don't worry about speaking English only in any of the cities (well, obviously not London...). Almost everyone in Amsterdam you'd be interacting with speaks English, and most people in Paris will too -- although they might be more reticent to use it -- if you can get the VERY BASICS of French it will go a long way! (sil vous-plaît, bonjour, je voudrais le duc..., pardonnez-moi.... that's all I know of French, and it may not even be right, and it got me through France just fine!)
posted by elisabethjw at 5:09 PM on February 16, 2010


Paris, no question. It's very easy to find people who will give you direction tips, and Paris is such a wonderful, huge, epic place, that I find it far more intriguing and interesting and generally fulfilling than Amsterdam.
posted by nonmerci at 6:26 PM on February 16, 2010


Also, the myth that French Parisians will NOT assist foreigners is absolute bullshit. I had a fabulous time in Paris while alone there for over a week, and I never once felt that I was being denigrated for my nationality. I highly recommend visiting with an open mind. The French are wonderful people, and if you provide them with a bit of polity, they will be absolutely open to you.
posted by nonmerci at 6:27 PM on February 16, 2010


Response by poster: Well, after some discussion as a family, and after going over all of these wonderful responses, we've decided to trust what several of you said: That a week is too long for Amsterdam. We're going to do Amsterdam for 3 days and Paris for four. I think this will be a great balance, and three days in Amsterdam with a good friend who knows his way around really well will be great.

Thanks a ton for the suggestions. This helped a lot!
posted by crapples at 6:53 PM on February 16, 2010


Most everyone I know who has visited Amsterdam loves it. The dissenters are those that were only able to stay for a couple days or who only stayed in the major tourist area near the Damrak. This is where you'll have the advantage: You will be there for a week and you'll have a native to show you the best, local spots (the Jordaan, the Old West, De Pijp). I studied in Amsterdam for half a year during college (Spring 2007) and just visited again last year. Suffice it to say my love for the city runs deep, and I'm currently planning another trip this Spring. I've also visited Paris twice now, and I really disliked the city for how impersonal the people and neighborhoods felt (generalizing I know) and how touristy the major landmarks were (which are the places you'll be visiting with your family without a guide).

I think Paris would be a safe bet (Eiffel Tower, Pere Lachaise Cemetery, Catacombs, Sacre Coeur, Notre Dame), but for something absolutely memorable go for the visit to Amsterdam with your guide. I'm curious if this person will still be in Amsterdam in the future, in which case depending on your children's ages, Paris may be the better option at this time.

Admittedly, Amsterdam is a small city, and you may finish the grand tour in 3 days (though it can certainly be stretched!). But there are a ton of great places outside the city by train that should not be missed (are your kids OK to travel an hour or so by train/bus?). Some day trip ideas that are relatively touristy but would be great for kids:

- Alkmaar (famous cheese market)
- Hoorn/Enkhuizen (ride an old-timey train, visit a village where everyone dresses in traditional clothing, and you can take a picture dressed with clogs and everything - somewhat corny but fun!)
- Haarlem (easy bike ride from Amsterdam with a great museum full of Vermeer's...a little farther and you'll get to a beach)
- Delft (beautiful, there's a canal tour and you could stop by to look at the famous Delft Blue pottery before going on to Rotterdam or De Haag)
- De Hoge Veluwe (enormous park that provides free bikes to ride around in and then you can visit the wonderful Kroller-Muller art museum in the center with well-known Giaocometti's, Picasso's, and LeWitt's )
- Keukenhof (like an amusement park for flowers, touristy but amazing)

Another disclaimer is that I'm in my mid-twenties and have no experience with kids in these scenarios. I did go with older family members on many of these day trips and we all loved it. Feel free to MeFi mail me with specific questions about any of this.
posted by jamnbread at 7:00 PM on February 16, 2010


Shoot, just missed your response. I can agree with a split :). Have fun!
posted by jamnbread at 7:02 PM on February 16, 2010


We're going to do Amsterdam for 3 days and Paris for four.

I think that's a great balance, with lots of contrasts, and if you take the Thalys from A'dam to Paris, a great connecting trip.

Definitely get the a museum pass (or combination museum/travel pass) for Paris: it usually allows you to bypass the ticket lines or go in through the group entrances, which will make things easier on the kids.
posted by holgate at 7:44 PM on February 16, 2010


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