Japan itinerary and a question about Tokyo music clubs
February 10, 2010 6:17 PM Subscribe
Japan in 6 days hahaha...need some help with itinerary and a little music question too...
We are flying to Tokyo and will arrive on Sunday early evening, March 27th. We’re flying back to the US on Sunday, April 4th at 3PM. I know that we could spend the whole time in Tokyo, but we don’t want to (“we” are my husband, our 17-year-old son, and I).
Some possibilities are: Monday and Tuesday in Tokyo, Wed. take the train to Kyoto (where I’ve already booked what seems to have been the only available hotel room in Kyoto on March 31st)(but I could cancel it), look around Kyoto all Wed. afternoon and evening, sleep in Kyoto,then Thursday morning go to Hijemi Castle and then back to Kyoto*, train back to Tokyo Thursday night, Friday and Saturday spend in Tokyo.
[* or take the train from Hijemi to NARA??? And go from Nara back to Tokyo Thurs. evening? Are my directions all screwy here? Nara sounds great and I think my son would love seeing the deer.)
So: I’m reading and reading on the web, and some people say you can’t miss Kyoto. And other people say Kyoto is a tourist trap, go to Nara instead. And some people say six days in Tokyo alone is too short. And some people say Akasura isn’t “worth” it if you’ve already seen other temples. And some people say you can’t miss Hijemi Castle, so maybe it’s worth it to go to Nara and Hijemi and skip Kyoto? (I’ve noticed that the MeFi people tend to hate Kyoto, and I’m often of like mind with the MeFi people)
Etc. Etc. Unfortunately we can’t spend any more time in Japan and our flights are already booked. Would love some opinions here.
As a group (family) we are better off constantly on the move or we get cranky and indecisive and start to Bicker. On the other hand, we often experience separation anxiety when we have to leave a place too soon (“WHAT???” my son might say. “That’s IT for Tokyo??? But I LIKE IT HERE.”) etc.
So any thoughts and opinions from those who have made this trip are so welcome.
OH – the question about music: I looked up a couple of clubs in Tokyo, one where Meta-Filterite flapjax played (I saw the video on YouTube) and the entrance fee was around $65US!!! Is this typical? I was thinking we’d like to hear some music in Tokyo (we like offbeat-type music (we live in the East Village in NYC, not that that means anything). Any suggestions for Tokyo nightlife with a teenager who is a guitar player much appreciated. Thank you, sorry for length.
We are flying to Tokyo and will arrive on Sunday early evening, March 27th. We’re flying back to the US on Sunday, April 4th at 3PM. I know that we could spend the whole time in Tokyo, but we don’t want to (“we” are my husband, our 17-year-old son, and I).
Some possibilities are: Monday and Tuesday in Tokyo, Wed. take the train to Kyoto (where I’ve already booked what seems to have been the only available hotel room in Kyoto on March 31st)(but I could cancel it), look around Kyoto all Wed. afternoon and evening, sleep in Kyoto,then Thursday morning go to Hijemi Castle and then back to Kyoto*, train back to Tokyo Thursday night, Friday and Saturday spend in Tokyo.
[* or take the train from Hijemi to NARA??? And go from Nara back to Tokyo Thurs. evening? Are my directions all screwy here? Nara sounds great and I think my son would love seeing the deer.)
So: I’m reading and reading on the web, and some people say you can’t miss Kyoto. And other people say Kyoto is a tourist trap, go to Nara instead. And some people say six days in Tokyo alone is too short. And some people say Akasura isn’t “worth” it if you’ve already seen other temples. And some people say you can’t miss Hijemi Castle, so maybe it’s worth it to go to Nara and Hijemi and skip Kyoto? (I’ve noticed that the MeFi people tend to hate Kyoto, and I’m often of like mind with the MeFi people)
Etc. Etc. Unfortunately we can’t spend any more time in Japan and our flights are already booked. Would love some opinions here.
As a group (family) we are better off constantly on the move or we get cranky and indecisive and start to Bicker. On the other hand, we often experience separation anxiety when we have to leave a place too soon (“WHAT???” my son might say. “That’s IT for Tokyo??? But I LIKE IT HERE.”) etc.
So any thoughts and opinions from those who have made this trip are so welcome.
OH – the question about music: I looked up a couple of clubs in Tokyo, one where Meta-Filterite flapjax played (I saw the video on YouTube) and the entrance fee was around $65US!!! Is this typical? I was thinking we’d like to hear some music in Tokyo (we like offbeat-type music (we live in the East Village in NYC, not that that means anything). Any suggestions for Tokyo nightlife with a teenager who is a guitar player much appreciated. Thank you, sorry for length.
I think your plan sounds good... The reason why it was difficult to find accommodation in Kyoto is because it is spring break and cherry blossom season.
I've said Kyoto is a tourist trap in past threads, but it is obviously an interesting town with plenty to see and do.
Kyoto really is a charming city (we used to spend Sunday afternoons there) but trying to cram everything into one day or so is too frenetic, which is why I often recommend Nara. If you have time to chill and walk around it makes Kyoto so much more fun.
I would perhaps cancel the trip to Himeji and instead focus on Kyoto.
This will make it easier to get to Nara, too, as there is no easy way to get to that city - you either take a train from Osaka (Namba) or Kyoto, and then you have to return to Kyoto or Osaka to get the shinkansen to return to Tokyo (you could take JR Kansai Line from Nara to Nagoya, but I wouldn't recommend it).
Assuming you ditch Himeji in favour of Kyoto, there is in fact a castle in Kyoto (Nijo Castle - it's not really in the same class as Himeji) and there is also the old Imperial Palace.
An extra day would allow you to travel up to Mount Hiei and visit Enraku-ji, which is a pretty cool place. An extra day would allow you to travel down to Uji and visit Byoudo-In, and you could do this on the way to or the way back from Nara.
Kyoto is awesome for walking, and an extra day would allow you to explore Kawaramachi and Karasuma-dori, and then grab a coffee at Starbucks at Shijo, and then hang out on the riverbank.
You could also visit the National Museum, as well as Sanjusangendo.
But mostly spending extra time in Kyoto will allow you to take a respite from a busy trip and do some walking, and not get overloaded.
posted by KokuRyu at 6:38 PM on February 10, 2010
I've said Kyoto is a tourist trap in past threads, but it is obviously an interesting town with plenty to see and do.
Kyoto really is a charming city (we used to spend Sunday afternoons there) but trying to cram everything into one day or so is too frenetic, which is why I often recommend Nara. If you have time to chill and walk around it makes Kyoto so much more fun.
I would perhaps cancel the trip to Himeji and instead focus on Kyoto.
This will make it easier to get to Nara, too, as there is no easy way to get to that city - you either take a train from Osaka (Namba) or Kyoto, and then you have to return to Kyoto or Osaka to get the shinkansen to return to Tokyo (you could take JR Kansai Line from Nara to Nagoya, but I wouldn't recommend it).
Assuming you ditch Himeji in favour of Kyoto, there is in fact a castle in Kyoto (Nijo Castle - it's not really in the same class as Himeji) and there is also the old Imperial Palace.
An extra day would allow you to travel up to Mount Hiei and visit Enraku-ji, which is a pretty cool place. An extra day would allow you to travel down to Uji and visit Byoudo-In, and you could do this on the way to or the way back from Nara.
Kyoto is awesome for walking, and an extra day would allow you to explore Kawaramachi and Karasuma-dori, and then grab a coffee at Starbucks at Shijo, and then hang out on the riverbank.
You could also visit the National Museum, as well as Sanjusangendo.
But mostly spending extra time in Kyoto will allow you to take a respite from a busy trip and do some walking, and not get overloaded.
posted by KokuRyu at 6:38 PM on February 10, 2010
LOVE tokyo and kyoto. i miss japan.
tokyo:
asakusa is a bit of a tourist trap, i really only went there whenever they had cool or crazy festival parades. dutifully took friends and family when they came to visit me and they seemed a touch bored.
check out all the standard areas- shinjuku, shibuya, harajuku, ebisu
semi-hidden stuff: shimakitazawa is one of my fave parts of toks, off the beaten path. a friend used to live around there. best waffle cafe in the world, some cool shopping, and a bunch of nice local restaurants. just a place with a fantastic atmosphere.
also i never went to a club with more than 3000 yen entry fee (and even then we were like 'screw this') so i don't know what the deal with that price is, unless it's like you're buying a ticket to a specific music performance. if so that sounds about right.
kyoto:
a lot more laid back than tokyo. def hit up all the touristy places. they may be touristy and kind of tourist trappy but they sure are pretty and worth seeing. i didn't live near kyoto so i've only been there a handful of times
squeezing nara into such a short trip if you're dividing time between toks and kyoto might be a bad idea, though you might want to do it for one night just to get the authentic ryokan (japanese inn) with an onsen (hot spring) experience.
good luck and have a fantastic time!!
posted by raw sugar at 6:45 PM on February 10, 2010
tokyo:
asakusa is a bit of a tourist trap, i really only went there whenever they had cool or crazy festival parades. dutifully took friends and family when they came to visit me and they seemed a touch bored.
check out all the standard areas- shinjuku, shibuya, harajuku, ebisu
semi-hidden stuff: shimakitazawa is one of my fave parts of toks, off the beaten path. a friend used to live around there. best waffle cafe in the world, some cool shopping, and a bunch of nice local restaurants. just a place with a fantastic atmosphere.
also i never went to a club with more than 3000 yen entry fee (and even then we were like 'screw this') so i don't know what the deal with that price is, unless it's like you're buying a ticket to a specific music performance. if so that sounds about right.
kyoto:
a lot more laid back than tokyo. def hit up all the touristy places. they may be touristy and kind of tourist trappy but they sure are pretty and worth seeing. i didn't live near kyoto so i've only been there a handful of times
squeezing nara into such a short trip if you're dividing time between toks and kyoto might be a bad idea, though you might want to do it for one night just to get the authentic ryokan (japanese inn) with an onsen (hot spring) experience.
good luck and have a fantastic time!!
posted by raw sugar at 6:45 PM on February 10, 2010
I totally recommend the Japanese national tourism site for this kind of thing: http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/
You can search by destination and there are all kinds of useful links for each city. Here's the link for Kyoto: http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/regional/kyoto/index.html On the lower right there are links to .pdf files of various walks around Kyoto which aren't tourist trappy at all. My wife and I took my parents round the Path of Philosophy walk, on to Ginkakuji, Kiyomizu (I think) and back via Gion in the evening (lovely at this time of the day). I also recommend Arashiyama in Kyoto if you have time.
Hope you have a good vacation!
posted by mukade at 7:34 PM on February 10, 2010
You can search by destination and there are all kinds of useful links for each city. Here's the link for Kyoto: http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/regional/kyoto/index.html On the lower right there are links to .pdf files of various walks around Kyoto which aren't tourist trappy at all. My wife and I took my parents round the Path of Philosophy walk, on to Ginkakuji, Kiyomizu (I think) and back via Gion in the evening (lovely at this time of the day). I also recommend Arashiyama in Kyoto if you have time.
Hope you have a good vacation!
posted by mukade at 7:34 PM on February 10, 2010
You can't miss out on Nara - the city is celebrating its 1300th anniversary this year. It was also the terminus of the Silk Road at one time. Great for an afternoon of walking.
posted by KokuRyu at 7:42 PM on February 10, 2010 [1 favorite]
posted by KokuRyu at 7:42 PM on February 10, 2010 [1 favorite]
Around that time, Ueno park should be in bloom as well. Good places to see cherry blossoms are all over. Ueno is nice, but can get ridiculously crowded with people putting out little blue tarps for their office parties just about everywhere. Shinjuku Gyoen is also supposed to be good for cherry trees, as is Yoyogi Park. If you look out the north side of the Chuo or Sobu lines between Shinjuku and Akihabara, there are places that make it look like it's snowing. Also, Yaskuni-shrine (the shrine for Japanese who died in the war/focal point for right wing crazies) is loaded with cherry trees as well. I would think you could do Asakusa-Ueno-Akihabara all in one day, then head somewhere for dinner/night out.
Random other point: your son will in all likelihood be allowed to drink alcohol. The drinking age is 20, but it doesn't stop anyone. There is no national ID card, and driver's licenses aren't as widely held, so no one gets carded. If you're cool with it, he'll be able to drink at restaurants and clubs with you.
posted by Ghidorah at 8:14 PM on February 10, 2010
Random other point: your son will in all likelihood be allowed to drink alcohol. The drinking age is 20, but it doesn't stop anyone. There is no national ID card, and driver's licenses aren't as widely held, so no one gets carded. If you're cool with it, he'll be able to drink at restaurants and clubs with you.
posted by Ghidorah at 8:14 PM on February 10, 2010
I wouldn't miss Kyoto. And Osaka is worth a visit but I'm biased since I lived in the Kansai area and don't know Tokyo very well.
posted by bardic at 8:32 PM on February 10, 2010
posted by bardic at 8:32 PM on February 10, 2010
You've already got some great general advice, so I'll comment about the music. I don't know where Samm was playing in the video you saw, but if you're after more music in the same... erm... genre? (for a lack of a better word), why not just shoot him a memail and ask? He knows more about this topic than me or anybody else who might show up in this thread, and I'm sure he'd be willing to point you to the right direction if he's not too busy.
Having said that, my general advice would be to to check out venues like the Shinjuku Pit Inn for starters because you probably won't go too wrong with any of the musicians they book. Prices vary. Shimokitazawa (Shimo, not Shima) was mentioned above, and there are lots of small music venues there that you can get in for cheap, as well as in places like Kichijoji, Koenji, and even Shibuya and Roppongi, but unless you choose the right shows by competent musicians, you're bound to be disappointed by the majority of so-called artists that play there. There's also a famous little venue in Kyoto called Taku Taku that has an atmosphere that I love to death (very different from the Pit Inn, mind you), and I will greatly envy you if you manage to catch a show there during your short stay in Japan.
On preview, Ghidorah's right about the alcohol being rather freely served to minors, but it is against the law and you should be aware that it's a Do At Your Own Risk kind of thing.
posted by misozaki at 8:50 PM on February 10, 2010
Having said that, my general advice would be to to check out venues like the Shinjuku Pit Inn for starters because you probably won't go too wrong with any of the musicians they book. Prices vary. Shimokitazawa (Shimo, not Shima) was mentioned above, and there are lots of small music venues there that you can get in for cheap, as well as in places like Kichijoji, Koenji, and even Shibuya and Roppongi, but unless you choose the right shows by competent musicians, you're bound to be disappointed by the majority of so-called artists that play there. There's also a famous little venue in Kyoto called Taku Taku that has an atmosphere that I love to death (very different from the Pit Inn, mind you), and I will greatly envy you if you manage to catch a show there during your short stay in Japan.
On preview, Ghidorah's right about the alcohol being rather freely served to minors, but it is against the law and you should be aware that it's a Do At Your Own Risk kind of thing.
posted by misozaki at 8:50 PM on February 10, 2010
One of my favourite memories of my entire life so far is visiting the National Museum in Ueno Park in Tokyo at cherry blossom time. On the second floor at the top of the stairs there's a lounge area where they sell programs. It also has a giant glass window that looks out on a grove of cherry trees. In cherry blossom time it's like a gigantic painting.
posted by KokuRyu at 8:58 PM on February 10, 2010
posted by KokuRyu at 8:58 PM on February 10, 2010
I personally never liked Kyoto, but I heard if you can get past the touristy stuff there's a great art and theater scene. I never managed to find it.
Live music clubs:
Tokyo - never lived there so the only one I know of is the famous Shibuya Crow's Nest
Kyoto: Club Metro
Osaka: Namba Bears, Juso Fandango
Went to Tokyo for a day or two once and felt a bit meh. I recommend Nara highly, as well as the cities of Osaka and Kobe.
posted by kinakomochi at 10:33 PM on February 10, 2010
Live music clubs:
Tokyo - never lived there so the only one I know of is the famous Shibuya Crow's Nest
Kyoto: Club Metro
Osaka: Namba Bears, Juso Fandango
Went to Tokyo for a day or two once and felt a bit meh. I recommend Nara highly, as well as the cities of Osaka and Kobe.
posted by kinakomochi at 10:33 PM on February 10, 2010
Concerts in Japan are generally pretty expensive - especially western acts. The last time I was planning a trip I noticed a Dinosaur Jr show for around 6000 yen, about 3x what it would cost to see them in North America. If you go to see Japanese acts at one of the many smaller live houses, it's more like 2000-2500 yen, and often a mandatory 500 yen drink. Still seems expensive but it's absolutely worth doing - there's nothing in the world like a Japanese rock show.
Some good info on attending rock concerts in Japan:
Japanlive.blogspot.com's guide on how to attend a Tokyo Rock show and the Tokyo Gig Guide.
posted by Gortuk at 8:02 AM on February 11, 2010
Some good info on attending rock concerts in Japan:
Japanlive.blogspot.com's guide on how to attend a Tokyo Rock show and the Tokyo Gig Guide.
posted by Gortuk at 8:02 AM on February 11, 2010
Response by poster: With only 6 full days, is there time to see Tokyo, Kyoto, and Nara (and sorry for misspellings of other places. I'm just getting the hang of it.)?
So far I've determined to miss the Big Castle (not scrolling back to get the correct spelling; the one that starts with an H and ends with an i), not worth all the travel time. The specific recommendations are also very helpful.
Now I'm thinking: Mon and Tues in Toyko, Wed early morning to Kyoto and maybe get that walking tour that man gives (sorry, again, no time to scroll back to get the name, that funny Americanized nickname) - it starts at 10:15 AM so would have to get VERY early train out of Tokyo -- that ends at 4PM at a famous landmark, so we'd have time maybe to do that one and one other one nearby --- (sorry I'm not making much sense here; there were older posts referring to a great walking tour that some on MeFi have gone on that involves a number of shrines/temples, Gion, and visits to 4 or so workshops where you see people making traditional japanese crafts) --
sleep in Kyoto, since we already have our reservation --- wake up, and EITHER spend Thursday in Kyoto and then evening train back to Tokyo OR spend the day in Nara, and then get on train in Nara at night --->pass through Kyoto ---> back to Tokyo.
so this is now the Big Question: Two days in Kyoto, or One in Kyoto and One in Nara?
I'm tending to think the latter. It's all so subjective, isn't it?
thank you for ALL your help, including with specific sites in various places AND info about music clubs to look into. My son doesn't drink alcohol, it's more a question of will they let him ENTER clubs that serve alcohol, because in New York City where the drinking age is 21 it is a big issue. Some clubs let them in underage with a special wristband. Some don't let in anybody under 18. Some don't let in anybody under 21. And (obviously) my Japanese is not good enough (because it is non-existent) to figure it out beforehand.
THANK YOU AGAIN. I'm going to e-mail (MeMail?) flapjax too.
Fri. and Sat. explore Tokyo
posted by DMelanogaster at 8:05 AM on February 11, 2010
So far I've determined to miss the Big Castle (not scrolling back to get the correct spelling; the one that starts with an H and ends with an i), not worth all the travel time. The specific recommendations are also very helpful.
Now I'm thinking: Mon and Tues in Toyko, Wed early morning to Kyoto and maybe get that walking tour that man gives (sorry, again, no time to scroll back to get the name, that funny Americanized nickname) - it starts at 10:15 AM so would have to get VERY early train out of Tokyo -- that ends at 4PM at a famous landmark, so we'd have time maybe to do that one and one other one nearby --- (sorry I'm not making much sense here; there were older posts referring to a great walking tour that some on MeFi have gone on that involves a number of shrines/temples, Gion, and visits to 4 or so workshops where you see people making traditional japanese crafts) --
sleep in Kyoto, since we already have our reservation --- wake up, and EITHER spend Thursday in Kyoto and then evening train back to Tokyo OR spend the day in Nara, and then get on train in Nara at night --->pass through Kyoto ---> back to Tokyo.
so this is now the Big Question: Two days in Kyoto, or One in Kyoto and One in Nara?
I'm tending to think the latter. It's all so subjective, isn't it?
thank you for ALL your help, including with specific sites in various places AND info about music clubs to look into. My son doesn't drink alcohol, it's more a question of will they let him ENTER clubs that serve alcohol, because in New York City where the drinking age is 21 it is a big issue. Some clubs let them in underage with a special wristband. Some don't let in anybody under 18. Some don't let in anybody under 21. And (obviously) my Japanese is not good enough (because it is non-existent) to figure it out beforehand.
THANK YOU AGAIN. I'm going to e-mail (MeMail?) flapjax too.
Fri. and Sat. explore Tokyo
posted by DMelanogaster at 8:05 AM on February 11, 2010
If I were you I would spend the morning in Nara and head to Kyoto after lunch. You could aim to be in Nara by about 9am, and could visit Todaiji and the Daibutsu "big Buddha", check out the deer and maybe some of the temples between the station* and Todaiji, and then eat lunch somewhere in the shopping arcade near the station.* You probably would have time to walk through the forest to Kasuga Shrine, too.
You could even visit the National Museum in Nara, which is incredible (you're looking back in time 1300 years), but it might be overload for you.
Anyway, you could probably be back in Kyoto by 1 or 1:30, meaning you could do 1 or 2 more things before catching a train back to Tokyo at 4 o'clock or so.
*BTW, when people talk about the station in Nara, they're usually referring to Kintetsu Station, rather than JR Nara. The JR line from Kyoto to Nara is *quite* slow, and the JR station itself is removed from the main tourist attractions in Nara. You can catch a Kintetsu train to Nara on the south side of Kyoto Station.
posted by KokuRyu at 8:23 AM on February 11, 2010 [2 favorites]
You could even visit the National Museum in Nara, which is incredible (you're looking back in time 1300 years), but it might be overload for you.
Anyway, you could probably be back in Kyoto by 1 or 1:30, meaning you could do 1 or 2 more things before catching a train back to Tokyo at 4 o'clock or so.
*BTW, when people talk about the station in Nara, they're usually referring to Kintetsu Station, rather than JR Nara. The JR line from Kyoto to Nara is *quite* slow, and the JR station itself is removed from the main tourist attractions in Nara. You can catch a Kintetsu train to Nara on the south side of Kyoto Station.
posted by KokuRyu at 8:23 AM on February 11, 2010 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: oK I have just consulted with my partner Obscure Reference and we have decided to go to Koyoto, take the walking tour, sleep over, and Thursday spend the day in Nara, and then train back to Tokyo that evening. Obscure Reference says that since he knows nothing about any of this he is opting for the "tasting menu" rather than the large main course.
Next question: I wonder if the hotel in Kyoto would let us leave our laptops etc with them at around 9:30AM, which is way before their earliest check-in time, so that we don't have to schlep them around all day. Similarly, I wonder if there are lockers in the Nara train station to leave our stuff as we walk around there the next day.
posted by DMelanogaster at 8:36 AM on February 11, 2010
Next question: I wonder if the hotel in Kyoto would let us leave our laptops etc with them at around 9:30AM, which is way before their earliest check-in time, so that we don't have to schlep them around all day. Similarly, I wonder if there are lockers in the Nara train station to leave our stuff as we walk around there the next day.
posted by DMelanogaster at 8:36 AM on February 11, 2010
Response by poster: oh, KoKuRyu, sorry, I hadn't read that last post before I posted again. Thank you for this info, although that seems like an awfully short amount of time to spend in Nara?? (we would not go to the museum, though.) also I think I'd like to take a later train back to Tokyo from Kyoto, maybe?
posted by DMelanogaster at 8:38 AM on February 11, 2010
posted by DMelanogaster at 8:38 AM on February 11, 2010
I love Tokyo, but you could consider shaving a day off (Tues?) and spending more time in Kyoto & Nara - if you're spending all that time and money to get to Kansai you would probably get more out of it by not rushing through. In Tokyo, two days would be enough to hit Shinjuku/Shibuya/Harajuku & Shimokitazawa, especially if you are staying in Shinjuku or Shibuya.
Everyone is highly customer service oriented so you shouldn't have a problem leaving anything at the hotel. You could also look into takkyubin service to ship your luggage from one hotel to another.
posted by Gortuk at 10:39 AM on February 11, 2010
Everyone is highly customer service oriented so you shouldn't have a problem leaving anything at the hotel. You could also look into takkyubin service to ship your luggage from one hotel to another.
posted by Gortuk at 10:39 AM on February 11, 2010
Well, if you're going to make a day of Nara, then you should take the time to get to Horyuji (it's not in the city of Nara itself), although it would be a bit of a journey (you'd have to get over to JR Nara and take the the JR line near there), or you could visit Heijo-Kyo in the city of Nara itself; I believe Heijo-kyo (it's the remains of an early planned city on the western side of town - it's a big field) has some temporary structures and exhibits constructed to mark the 1300-year anniversary. After Heijo-kyo you could visit Yakushi-ji, which is often featured in Nara promo literature.
However, it's a lot of temples, and after a while the temples tend to blend together, which is why I recommended doing Nara in a morning. It's a small town - I really like it and usually stay there overnight after flying in to Japan, before heading off to my in-laws' house up near Kanazawa.
But Kyoto has a bit more variety. If you're sick of going to temples you can go shopping (Nara is a provincial town, and there is no good shopping), and it's easier to find places to eat.
If you do choose to go back to Kyoto in the afternoon, a good excursion would be Toji temle, on the south side of Kyoto Station. It has a lot of cool, esoteric (baroque) artwork from the Heian period, the period following the Nara period, and would be an interesting comparison to some of the statues you see in Nara.
As well, you could easily take the bus to Kiyomizu-Dera Temple in Kyoto, and then do the Philosopher's Walk thing, or even visit Gion from Kiyomizu Temple, and walk over to Karasuma-Dori (it would be a bit of a walk) to catch a city bus back to Kyoto Station and the Shinkansen. Kyoto Station itself is also home to a large department store, which is worth a visit. It has an observation deck, and restaurants.
What train you take back to Tokyo is important. It's about a three-hour trip just to get to Tokyo Station, and then you have to make your way to the actual hotel, so add an extra half an hour. Some hotels get antsy about check-in times, too, so you may have to phone ahead and let them know when you will be arriving.
posted by KokuRyu at 11:53 AM on February 11, 2010 [1 favorite]
However, it's a lot of temples, and after a while the temples tend to blend together, which is why I recommended doing Nara in a morning. It's a small town - I really like it and usually stay there overnight after flying in to Japan, before heading off to my in-laws' house up near Kanazawa.
But Kyoto has a bit more variety. If you're sick of going to temples you can go shopping (Nara is a provincial town, and there is no good shopping), and it's easier to find places to eat.
If you do choose to go back to Kyoto in the afternoon, a good excursion would be Toji temle, on the south side of Kyoto Station. It has a lot of cool, esoteric (baroque) artwork from the Heian period, the period following the Nara period, and would be an interesting comparison to some of the statues you see in Nara.
As well, you could easily take the bus to Kiyomizu-Dera Temple in Kyoto, and then do the Philosopher's Walk thing, or even visit Gion from Kiyomizu Temple, and walk over to Karasuma-Dori (it would be a bit of a walk) to catch a city bus back to Kyoto Station and the Shinkansen. Kyoto Station itself is also home to a large department store, which is worth a visit. It has an observation deck, and restaurants.
What train you take back to Tokyo is important. It's about a three-hour trip just to get to Tokyo Station, and then you have to make your way to the actual hotel, so add an extra half an hour. Some hotels get antsy about check-in times, too, so you may have to phone ahead and let them know when you will be arriving.
posted by KokuRyu at 11:53 AM on February 11, 2010 [1 favorite]
will they let him ENTER clubs that serve alcohol
No problem.
posted by misozaki at 3:23 PM on February 11, 2010
No problem.
posted by misozaki at 3:23 PM on February 11, 2010
Response by poster: We're going to try to do this tour when we get into Kyoto:
"Johnny Hillwalker" (I learned about this from MeFi):
Start walking at 10:15 from JR Kyoto station.
------
The tour visits:
Higashi-Honganji, the biggest Buddhist temple, not a tourist spot, but a place of worship. We have to take off our shoes to go inside.
3 Shinto shrines, Ayako Tenman-gu ,Ichihime shrine and Toyokuni shrine.
A former geisha area, Gojo rakuen.
A graveyard in Chokodo Temple, or Renkoji Temple.
4 workshops in private homes along back alleys where such things as Buddhist prayer beads, paper fans, tofu, paper lanterns, rope decorations, green tea containers, Japanese pastries and pottery are made.
No lunch stop. The tour provides each of you one small piece of vegetarian sushi, and a rest in an old pastry shop, Kanshundo-Higashimise, around 2:00, where you are served a small piece of Japanese pastry with a cup of green tea. phone 075-561-1318.
The tour finishes around 3:00 near Kiyomizu temple, the No. 1 tourist spot in Kyoto, half way up the eastside hill, with wonderful views and many shops, and restaurants along old Kyoto-style lanes, the best part of Kyoto to spend the remaining of the day yourself.
-----
this sounds great to me. What I want to know is, what can we do at 3PM, after looking at Kiyomizu temple, among the sites recommended?
I believe we would love to do the Philosopher's Walk, and it seems people can do this at night.
Any recommedations welcome. Also, should I try to find restaurant names in advance (in Tokyo too) or will it be impossible to find them and we should just pop into (CHEAP) places that look okay? (the prices of restaurant meals seems extraordinary, from a cursory look at a few of the Japan guides).
I do appreciate all the answers. I haven't yet figured out how to get back to my _own_ posts short of going to my MeFi mail, so it's amazing to me that you, the Responders, can keep up the conversation. There's a lot about MeFi I don't get yet.
posted by DMelanogaster at 6:22 PM on February 11, 2010
"Johnny Hillwalker" (I learned about this from MeFi):
Start walking at 10:15 from JR Kyoto station.
------
The tour visits:
Higashi-Honganji, the biggest Buddhist temple, not a tourist spot, but a place of worship. We have to take off our shoes to go inside.
3 Shinto shrines, Ayako Tenman-gu ,Ichihime shrine and Toyokuni shrine.
A former geisha area, Gojo rakuen.
A graveyard in Chokodo Temple, or Renkoji Temple.
4 workshops in private homes along back alleys where such things as Buddhist prayer beads, paper fans, tofu, paper lanterns, rope decorations, green tea containers, Japanese pastries and pottery are made.
No lunch stop. The tour provides each of you one small piece of vegetarian sushi, and a rest in an old pastry shop, Kanshundo-Higashimise, around 2:00, where you are served a small piece of Japanese pastry with a cup of green tea. phone 075-561-1318.
The tour finishes around 3:00 near Kiyomizu temple, the No. 1 tourist spot in Kyoto, half way up the eastside hill, with wonderful views and many shops, and restaurants along old Kyoto-style lanes, the best part of Kyoto to spend the remaining of the day yourself.
-----
this sounds great to me. What I want to know is, what can we do at 3PM, after looking at Kiyomizu temple, among the sites recommended?
I believe we would love to do the Philosopher's Walk, and it seems people can do this at night.
Any recommedations welcome. Also, should I try to find restaurant names in advance (in Tokyo too) or will it be impossible to find them and we should just pop into (CHEAP) places that look okay? (the prices of restaurant meals seems extraordinary, from a cursory look at a few of the Japan guides).
I do appreciate all the answers. I haven't yet figured out how to get back to my _own_ posts short of going to my MeFi mail, so it's amazing to me that you, the Responders, can keep up the conversation. There's a lot about MeFi I don't get yet.
posted by DMelanogaster at 6:22 PM on February 11, 2010
The Philosopher's Walk is really just a gravel path along a small stream. The temples along it are quite beautiful, but most temples in Japan tend to "close" around 4 or 5. Rather than try to rush, why not go over to the river area, and Pontochou? There's a huge covered shopping arcade there, you might find some interesting stores there (there's at least one store selling Japanese cooking knives, another selling antique maps).
And if the tour finishes, leaving you at Kiyomizu, well, go in. It'll take at least an hour to wander around in there.
As for your posts, just click on your name, or "my profile" at the top of the page. You'll see your posts and comments for each subsite. Click on your post to get to the question, or on your comments to find your most recent comments.
posted by Ghidorah at 7:52 PM on February 11, 2010
And if the tour finishes, leaving you at Kiyomizu, well, go in. It'll take at least an hour to wander around in there.
As for your posts, just click on your name, or "my profile" at the top of the page. You'll see your posts and comments for each subsite. Click on your post to get to the question, or on your comments to find your most recent comments.
posted by Ghidorah at 7:52 PM on February 11, 2010
Eating in Japan doesn't have to be expensive - the yen is a little more unfavorable now, but I think you can eat better, cheaper in Japan than in many big Western cities. Just look for Japanese restaurants where the locals eat. Kaiten-zushi (revolving sushi) is usually cheap, fresh, and requires no Japanese skills to order. Tempura w/noodles is a cheap lunch - just drag the waitress outside and point the plastic food you want. Even the Japanese fast food chains can be really tasty and worth checking out (I like Hokka Hokka Tei and Mos Burger. First Kitchen has fun shakes too).
A great resource is Bento.com which covers Tokyo and Kyoto. Map out a few places near your hotel or tourist destinations just so you have a plan for when hunger strikes.
posted by Gortuk at 11:21 AM on February 12, 2010
A great resource is Bento.com which covers Tokyo and Kyoto. Map out a few places near your hotel or tourist destinations just so you have a plan for when hunger strikes.
posted by Gortuk at 11:21 AM on February 12, 2010
Response by poster: Now I don't know if I want to go on that walking tour through Kyoto anymore. If we have basically one day in Kyoto, I don't know if I want to limit myself to seeing a lot of people e.g. making fans.
I think it'll be "better" to see a bunch of things in Kyoto on our one day there (a few temples and the philosopher's walk and Gion and the little "authentic" neighborhood I've been reading about (can't remember the name now) and whatever else we can cram in (like meals)), and then go to our hotel to sleep. The next day we can see a few more things and then head out to Nara, and then take the train from Nara --Kyoto --- Tokyo.
Or maybe do one thing in the morning in Kyoto before going to Nara. The question is, how many hours should I allocate to Nara? should we just stay in the little area with the deer park and those temples, or go to a few places in Nara that you need to take a bus to get to? Obviously I need to do some more research (although asking here is part of my research).
But probably nobody's reading this anymore. I don't really understand MetaFilter yet. That is, how to set it up so you're reading a "thread" (like this question) and can be told "2 new responses" automatically. Maybe you can't. Maybe I'm not even allowed to be discussing this here. Lots o' rules.
posted by DMelanogaster at 9:57 AM on February 15, 2010
I think it'll be "better" to see a bunch of things in Kyoto on our one day there (a few temples and the philosopher's walk and Gion and the little "authentic" neighborhood I've been reading about (can't remember the name now) and whatever else we can cram in (like meals)), and then go to our hotel to sleep. The next day we can see a few more things and then head out to Nara, and then take the train from Nara --Kyoto --- Tokyo.
Or maybe do one thing in the morning in Kyoto before going to Nara. The question is, how many hours should I allocate to Nara? should we just stay in the little area with the deer park and those temples, or go to a few places in Nara that you need to take a bus to get to? Obviously I need to do some more research (although asking here is part of my research).
But probably nobody's reading this anymore. I don't really understand MetaFilter yet. That is, how to set it up so you're reading a "thread" (like this question) and can be told "2 new responses" automatically. Maybe you can't. Maybe I'm not even allowed to be discussing this here. Lots o' rules.
posted by DMelanogaster at 9:57 AM on February 15, 2010
I think an afternoon would be enough time to get an overview of Nara - most of the attractions are in and around the park (which is actually quite large, but very walkable). Just keep in mind, as mentioned above, that most temples tend to close around 5 PM.
Wikitravel has a good overview of what's in the park, and what's elsewhere.
posted by Gortuk at 11:36 AM on February 18, 2010
Wikitravel has a good overview of what's in the park, and what's elsewhere.
posted by Gortuk at 11:36 AM on February 18, 2010
Response by poster: Here I am again, probably talking to myself. But that's...okay.
So. I found an extra day. Don't you love when that happens??
Our plans are now:
Monday in Tokyo. Tuesday morning, train to Kyoto. Do some things in Kyoto on our own*.
Sleep in Kyoto (extra night's reservation confirmed!) Wednesday: Johnnie Hillwalker walking tour, ending in Kyomizu. Sleep in Kyoto. Thursday: Inari shrine in the morning, then to Nara, then back to Tokyo in the evening.
*This is where my question comes in. We'll reach Kyoto from Tokyo at maybe noon.
Here are some things I would like to see on our own, and I'd like to know what the proper sequence should be, and if it's too many things given that temples and shrines close at around 5:
Okay, first priority is probably Sanjusangendo Hall. Then Philosopher's Walk, starting at the Silver Pavilion. Then, maybe at twilight (so they say), the Golden Pavilion. And then to Pontouchou for dinner? walking around.
So I would like to know-- from Kyoto station, what should we do first? Can we do all of this from noon to 5ish? (maybe since you don't actually go into Golden Pavilion we could get there later, just to look at it from the outside?). Thank you.
(I am also assuming from prior answers that going to Inari Shrine (which is a HUGE priority) on the other morning plus Nara will not be too many activities for one day. Otherwise I'd go there on the first day, at noon-ish, after putting backpacks in Kyoto station locker, and then Sanjusangendo and Golden Pavilion at dusk and screw the Philosopher's Walk and Silver Pavilion.
Oh! one other question. I hear that the buses are kind of slow and few-and-far-between. Should we take trains to get to and from these Kyoto sights instead? (on the other hand, I love to look out of bus windows).
Thank you, whoever is reading this, you know who you are. (!)
posted by DMelanogaster at 2:14 PM on February 20, 2010
So. I found an extra day. Don't you love when that happens??
Our plans are now:
Monday in Tokyo. Tuesday morning, train to Kyoto. Do some things in Kyoto on our own*.
Sleep in Kyoto (extra night's reservation confirmed!) Wednesday: Johnnie Hillwalker walking tour, ending in Kyomizu. Sleep in Kyoto. Thursday: Inari shrine in the morning, then to Nara, then back to Tokyo in the evening.
*This is where my question comes in. We'll reach Kyoto from Tokyo at maybe noon.
Here are some things I would like to see on our own, and I'd like to know what the proper sequence should be, and if it's too many things given that temples and shrines close at around 5:
Okay, first priority is probably Sanjusangendo Hall. Then Philosopher's Walk, starting at the Silver Pavilion. Then, maybe at twilight (so they say), the Golden Pavilion. And then to Pontouchou for dinner? walking around.
So I would like to know-- from Kyoto station, what should we do first? Can we do all of this from noon to 5ish? (maybe since you don't actually go into Golden Pavilion we could get there later, just to look at it from the outside?). Thank you.
(I am also assuming from prior answers that going to Inari Shrine (which is a HUGE priority) on the other morning plus Nara will not be too many activities for one day. Otherwise I'd go there on the first day, at noon-ish, after putting backpacks in Kyoto station locker, and then Sanjusangendo and Golden Pavilion at dusk and screw the Philosopher's Walk and Silver Pavilion.
Oh! one other question. I hear that the buses are kind of slow and few-and-far-between. Should we take trains to get to and from these Kyoto sights instead? (on the other hand, I love to look out of bus windows).
Thank you, whoever is reading this, you know who you are. (!)
posted by DMelanogaster at 2:14 PM on February 20, 2010
You're doing one hell of a lot in one afternoon in Kyoto. The Silver and Golden Pavillions are on opposite ends of town and will take a lot of time to get to.
Pontocho is really really expensive... Have you found a restaurant, or are you assuming you can just drop in? You can't just drop in.
However, Pontocho is near Kawaramachi and Karasuma, which both have plenty of places to eat.
As for your itinerary...
There is no train to get to and from these Kyoto sites... You could take the subway, or perhaps Keihan or Hankyu, but those are all underground. The bus is the most convenient way to get to them.
If you want to go to Sanjusangendo, and would like to check out the Silver Pavillion, and would like to check out Pontocho, why not ditch the idea of going to the Golden Pavillion, which is in another part of town.
What you want to do is head for Higashiyama after Sanjusangendo Temple. Higashiyama where Kiyomizu Temple is, and it has plenty of relaxed walking and tea houses.
Sanjusangendo, Kiyomizu and Higasiyama are enough for a couple-three hours, and you can make your way back from Higashiyama towards Pontocho and Karasuma. You could even walk and cross over the Kamo River, walk through Pontocho, head over to Karasuma and find a good place eat.
So, the itinerary would be:
Kyoto Station --> Sanjusangendo --> Kiyomizu --> Higashiyama -->Pontocho --> Karasuma (dinner) --> hotel
These are all in the southeast quadrant of the city (northeast of the station and the train lines). The Golden Pavillion is in the Northwest quadrant of the city. You can't really do it and the other places on the same day. If you really want to go the Golden Pavillion, you could check out Kamo Shrine, which is more interesting than Inari Shrine.
posted by KokuRyu at 10:31 AM on February 21, 2010 [1 favorite]
Pontocho is really really expensive... Have you found a restaurant, or are you assuming you can just drop in? You can't just drop in.
However, Pontocho is near Kawaramachi and Karasuma, which both have plenty of places to eat.
As for your itinerary...
There is no train to get to and from these Kyoto sites... You could take the subway, or perhaps Keihan or Hankyu, but those are all underground. The bus is the most convenient way to get to them.
If you want to go to Sanjusangendo, and would like to check out the Silver Pavillion, and would like to check out Pontocho, why not ditch the idea of going to the Golden Pavillion, which is in another part of town.
What you want to do is head for Higashiyama after Sanjusangendo Temple. Higashiyama where Kiyomizu Temple is, and it has plenty of relaxed walking and tea houses.
Sanjusangendo, Kiyomizu and Higasiyama are enough for a couple-three hours, and you can make your way back from Higashiyama towards Pontocho and Karasuma. You could even walk and cross over the Kamo River, walk through Pontocho, head over to Karasuma and find a good place eat.
So, the itinerary would be:
Kyoto Station --> Sanjusangendo --> Kiyomizu --> Higashiyama -->Pontocho --> Karasuma (dinner) --> hotel
These are all in the southeast quadrant of the city (northeast of the station and the train lines). The Golden Pavillion is in the Northwest quadrant of the city. You can't really do it and the other places on the same day. If you really want to go the Golden Pavillion, you could check out Kamo Shrine, which is more interesting than Inari Shrine.
posted by KokuRyu at 10:31 AM on February 21, 2010 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Well, here's the thing (several things, really):
First of all, the next day we're going to take the Johnnie Hillwalker tour, which ends at Kiyomizu, so we'll get to go in there and then walk around that area, and I guess through Pontouchou as the sun sets (and yes I thought you could just find a place to eat around there ---- but now to Karasuma for dinner (would that be too much walking? we'll just have been walking on the tour for 5 hours, and then to Kiyomizo and that area)
Next, we decided to go to Nijo Castle because I think my son (17 yrs old this week) will enjoy that more than shrine after shrine during the next two days. So I think from the Kyoto Station we'll go to Sanjusangendo first and then the castle. Arriving in Kyoto around 11, probably that'll take us til around 2, lunch will come in, around 3? So now we just have about an hour to see something else before the temples and shrines close.
I wonder if there's time to see another site after the castle? Kamo Shrine sounds lovely (I just looked it up), but I can't imagine that we have enough time to get there. I'm assuming that in your post you meant Golden Pavilion and Kamo Shrine OR the other sites I mentioned.
I've also been told on another forum (a Japan travel forum) that taxis are not that expensive in Kyoto (I guess relative to Tokyo taxis, certainly not relative to buses) and that, with limited time, and with 3 people traveling, maybe we should hop in one to take us to the few places we'll be visiting to save time. But I bet the people posting there are better-heeled than the average MetaFilter poster.
So -- summing up -- probably arriving at Kyoto Station at 11 we would just have time for Nijo Castle and Sanjusangendo? I guess we could eat a late breakfast on the train and just have dinner later on but still doubt we'd have time to get to Kamo Shrine, right?
Would love your input on this. Thanks.
posted by DMelanogaster at 6:34 AM on February 22, 2010
First of all, the next day we're going to take the Johnnie Hillwalker tour, which ends at Kiyomizu, so we'll get to go in there and then walk around that area, and I guess through Pontouchou as the sun sets (and yes I thought you could just find a place to eat around there ---- but now to Karasuma for dinner (would that be too much walking? we'll just have been walking on the tour for 5 hours, and then to Kiyomizo and that area)
Next, we decided to go to Nijo Castle because I think my son (17 yrs old this week) will enjoy that more than shrine after shrine during the next two days. So I think from the Kyoto Station we'll go to Sanjusangendo first and then the castle. Arriving in Kyoto around 11, probably that'll take us til around 2, lunch will come in, around 3? So now we just have about an hour to see something else before the temples and shrines close.
I wonder if there's time to see another site after the castle? Kamo Shrine sounds lovely (I just looked it up), but I can't imagine that we have enough time to get there. I'm assuming that in your post you meant Golden Pavilion and Kamo Shrine OR the other sites I mentioned.
I've also been told on another forum (a Japan travel forum) that taxis are not that expensive in Kyoto (I guess relative to Tokyo taxis, certainly not relative to buses) and that, with limited time, and with 3 people traveling, maybe we should hop in one to take us to the few places we'll be visiting to save time. But I bet the people posting there are better-heeled than the average MetaFilter poster.
So -- summing up -- probably arriving at Kyoto Station at 11 we would just have time for Nijo Castle and Sanjusangendo? I guess we could eat a late breakfast on the train and just have dinner later on but still doubt we'd have time to get to Kamo Shrine, right?
Would love your input on this. Thanks.
posted by DMelanogaster at 6:34 AM on February 22, 2010
I'm assuming that in your post you meant Golden Pavilion and Kamo Shrine OR the other sites I mentioned.
Yes, but rechecking my geography, the Golden Pavilion and Kamo Shrine are not too close to each other at all. When we go siteseeing, we aim for just one or two places a day, and the rest of the time is spent taking a long walk, drinking coffee, eating lunch, walking, more coffee, and taking a bath at an onsen.
Nijo Castle and Sansangendo are not really in the same area of the city... You'd have to take a bus east from Kyoto Station to get to Sanjusangendo, and then somehow travel northwest, over the river, to get to Nijo. Not impossible, but somewhat complicated.
So, if the Hillwalker tour is taking you to Kiyomizu Temple and Higashiyama and Karasuma anyway, why not ditch Sanjusangendo (it's pretty incredible, though, but it distorts your itinerary) and instead visit the Golden Pavilion and Nijo.
At least visiting the Golden Pavilion gets you into a different part of the city, and aiming for Nijo after that gets you back towards transport that can get you easily and more quickly to Kyoto Station.
You can take a bus to the Golden Pavilion from Kyoto Station (taxis are expensive), and there's probably another bus from the Golden Pavilion that goes towards Nijo.
All things being equal, if I were a 17-year-old, I would want to spend some time on Karasuma-Dori, and Shijo-Dori. Great shopping, with plenty of cool stores and interesting places to eat.
posted by KokuRyu at 10:08 AM on February 22, 2010
Yes, but rechecking my geography, the Golden Pavilion and Kamo Shrine are not too close to each other at all. When we go siteseeing, we aim for just one or two places a day, and the rest of the time is spent taking a long walk, drinking coffee, eating lunch, walking, more coffee, and taking a bath at an onsen.
Nijo Castle and Sansangendo are not really in the same area of the city... You'd have to take a bus east from Kyoto Station to get to Sanjusangendo, and then somehow travel northwest, over the river, to get to Nijo. Not impossible, but somewhat complicated.
So, if the Hillwalker tour is taking you to Kiyomizu Temple and Higashiyama and Karasuma anyway, why not ditch Sanjusangendo (it's pretty incredible, though, but it distorts your itinerary) and instead visit the Golden Pavilion and Nijo.
At least visiting the Golden Pavilion gets you into a different part of the city, and aiming for Nijo after that gets you back towards transport that can get you easily and more quickly to Kyoto Station.
You can take a bus to the Golden Pavilion from Kyoto Station (taxis are expensive), and there's probably another bus from the Golden Pavilion that goes towards Nijo.
All things being equal, if I were a 17-year-old, I would want to spend some time on Karasuma-Dori, and Shijo-Dori. Great shopping, with plenty of cool stores and interesting places to eat.
posted by KokuRyu at 10:08 AM on February 22, 2010
DMelanogaster, how was the trip? Feel free to mark any responses that were especially helpful as best answers.
posted by armage at 4:37 PM on April 10, 2010
posted by armage at 4:37 PM on April 10, 2010
Response by poster: I'm so glad you asked!
The trip was great. Here's what we wound up doing:
Arrived Sunday March 28, early evening, EXHAUSTED from 14 1/2 hour flight. Got our JR Passes validated for the next day (took a long long time on a long long line). Took a taxi to our hotel which was about a 7-minute walk from Ueno Park.
Monday -- Tokyo: HamaRikyu Garden (please don't criticize my spellings! thank you) where we walked around and caught a boat to Asakusa, walked around, then to Kappabashi and to Akihabara where we went to a wild 5- or 6-story "toy" store (manga, etc.) *BY the way, this website, www.hellodamage.com, was fantastic. Some American (I think) guy telling you all kinds of stuff to see in Tokyo including the more "far out" stores, punk rock venues (which we didn't get to), etc., BUT I now see that, all of a sudden, the site is gone! I don't know why.
Tuesday -- took train to Kyoto and directly to Nara. Great afternoon with the deer. Then to our hotel in Kyoto.
Wednesday -- Johnnie Hillwalker tour which was WELL worth the time. Very informative and fun. Left us off, late afternoon, at foot of Kiomyzu (sp? sorry, please forgive) which was very very good. Then we walked around Gion and that was just great and finally found a restaurant right on the river.
Thursday -- Day to ourselves in Kyoto. We went to Nijo Castle and then to the Philosopher's Path, hitting the Silver Pavilion and down to Nanenji, stopping at a couple of other places along the way. Thursday early evening we took the train back to Tokyo, COMPLETELY screwing up as I got on the train that was at the right platform, but it was an earlier train, and it was the bullet train you are NOT allowed to take with a JR pass (Nozomi) and that was very stressful but had a happy ending.
Friday and Saturday -- hung around Tokyo. Went to Ueno Park for sakura-watching with the hundreds of thousands (or so it seemed) other people, went to Shinjuku and Harajuku (and we really hated those commercial areas and had no interest in those stores); but then referred once again to what I printed out from the tokyo damage website and went to a smaller neighborhood (name I cannot remember now) with a very interesting little mall where my son did some shopping and we all did some eating. Oh we also got to Yanaka, old neighborhood north of Ueno, with cemetery and interesting shrine to dead children.
And other stuff I can't remember! HOWEVER I edited my little home videos and if you have 45 extra minutes in your life you can't think of anything to do with, feel free to watch it here:
http://www.echonyc.com/~jimb/videos/japan2010.html
and will mark best answers, but that always makes me feel icky because I am so full of love for ALL answers!
so thank you again ---
posted by DMelanogaster at 2:24 PM on April 11, 2010
The trip was great. Here's what we wound up doing:
Arrived Sunday March 28, early evening, EXHAUSTED from 14 1/2 hour flight. Got our JR Passes validated for the next day (took a long long time on a long long line). Took a taxi to our hotel which was about a 7-minute walk from Ueno Park.
Monday -- Tokyo: HamaRikyu Garden (please don't criticize my spellings! thank you) where we walked around and caught a boat to Asakusa, walked around, then to Kappabashi and to Akihabara where we went to a wild 5- or 6-story "toy" store (manga, etc.) *BY the way, this website, www.hellodamage.com, was fantastic. Some American (I think) guy telling you all kinds of stuff to see in Tokyo including the more "far out" stores, punk rock venues (which we didn't get to), etc., BUT I now see that, all of a sudden, the site is gone! I don't know why.
Tuesday -- took train to Kyoto and directly to Nara. Great afternoon with the deer. Then to our hotel in Kyoto.
Wednesday -- Johnnie Hillwalker tour which was WELL worth the time. Very informative and fun. Left us off, late afternoon, at foot of Kiomyzu (sp? sorry, please forgive) which was very very good. Then we walked around Gion and that was just great and finally found a restaurant right on the river.
Thursday -- Day to ourselves in Kyoto. We went to Nijo Castle and then to the Philosopher's Path, hitting the Silver Pavilion and down to Nanenji, stopping at a couple of other places along the way. Thursday early evening we took the train back to Tokyo, COMPLETELY screwing up as I got on the train that was at the right platform, but it was an earlier train, and it was the bullet train you are NOT allowed to take with a JR pass (Nozomi) and that was very stressful but had a happy ending.
Friday and Saturday -- hung around Tokyo. Went to Ueno Park for sakura-watching with the hundreds of thousands (or so it seemed) other people, went to Shinjuku and Harajuku (and we really hated those commercial areas and had no interest in those stores); but then referred once again to what I printed out from the tokyo damage website and went to a smaller neighborhood (name I cannot remember now) with a very interesting little mall where my son did some shopping and we all did some eating. Oh we also got to Yanaka, old neighborhood north of Ueno, with cemetery and interesting shrine to dead children.
And other stuff I can't remember! HOWEVER I edited my little home videos and if you have 45 extra minutes in your life you can't think of anything to do with, feel free to watch it here:
http://www.echonyc.com/~jimb/videos/japan2010.html
and will mark best answers, but that always makes me feel icky because I am so full of love for ALL answers!
so thank you again ---
posted by DMelanogaster at 2:24 PM on April 11, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
Just an idea: Day one, get up freaking early, take an early train to Kyoto. Grab a snack at the station. Check out the Philosopher's Path and the temples around there: The Silver Pavilion, Eikan-do, and Nanzenji. Start from the north and work your way down. Grab a late lunch, then head over to Kiyomizu-dera, the temple on stilts. If you're going to be there around the 31st, there should be cherry blossoms, and it's gorgeous.
Day two: Check out the Gold Pavilion (which is a tourist trap, but also beautiful). Skip Ryoanji (more of a tourist trap, really far out of the way, only one stone garden) for Daitoku-ji, which is a complex of temples each with their own stone garden, and usually much less crowded. In the afternoon, check out either Heian Jinja or Nijo Castle.
For dinner, there's an izakaya (Japanese pub) in northwest Kyoto called Okariba. It's listed in Lonely Planet, and I took a bunch of friends there. The owner is a hunter, and delights in getting people to try "different" food. In addition to stirfried grasshoppers, there is also delicious boar, grilled miso paste, and wonderful raw horse.
As for Tokyo, Asakusa isn't that bad, really. It's also a good place for souvenirs. You should also try to check out Shinjuku/Shibuya for the downtown big city feel. Kamakura is a good day trip outside of Tokyo, lots of temples by the seaside.
As for Nara, it's beautiful, but it's very spread out. Some of the best things are hard to get to, but if you have a the time, it's nice. I'd go to Kyoto first, though.
Last thing, you've got a lot of mispellings of Japanese place names in your question. This isn't a nitpick, rather a word of advice. Try to figure out the place names you're using, because if you have to ask someone for advice, they most likely won't speak English, and if the one Japanese word you're using is wrong (Akasura, instead of Asakusa), they won't be able to help you.
posted by Ghidorah at 6:36 PM on February 10, 2010