What's with the anarcho butt flap?
January 23, 2009 12:41 PM Subscribe
Fashion filter: what's up with the anarchist butt flap?
As an anarchist, I regularly patronize anarchist bookfairs, cafes, infoshops and the like, and I have found a depressing, if not surprising monotony in the anarchopunk uniform. Monochromatism is the rule, with frequent deployments of layers and patches. And while most anarcho fashion seems to serve a utilitarian purpose (the anonymity provided by the homogeneous look is handy for slipping into the crowd after setting a dumpster aflame at an anti-globalization rally, for example) I can't for the life of me figure out what the butt flap is for. Usually constructed of canvas or leather, occasionally adored with a patch or slogan, this is a rectangular flap of material affixed somehow to the wasteband of the jeans/carhartts/whatnot and hanging loosely down across the bottom. Can someone please explain to me the origin and or utility of this fashion "do"? My future hipness depends on it.
As an anarchist, I regularly patronize anarchist bookfairs, cafes, infoshops and the like, and I have found a depressing, if not surprising monotony in the anarchopunk uniform. Monochromatism is the rule, with frequent deployments of layers and patches. And while most anarcho fashion seems to serve a utilitarian purpose (the anonymity provided by the homogeneous look is handy for slipping into the crowd after setting a dumpster aflame at an anti-globalization rally, for example) I can't for the life of me figure out what the butt flap is for. Usually constructed of canvas or leather, occasionally adored with a patch or slogan, this is a rectangular flap of material affixed somehow to the wasteband of the jeans/carhartts/whatnot and hanging loosely down across the bottom. Can someone please explain to me the origin and or utility of this fashion "do"? My future hipness depends on it.
Response by poster: OMG, that is the best wikipedia page I've ever seen in my life. Other answers still sought and welcome, but that provided an excellent foundation.
posted by serazin at 12:55 PM on January 23, 2009
posted by serazin at 12:55 PM on January 23, 2009
My somewhat-tongue-in-cheek theory has always been that the butt flap arose out of necessity--when all other body surfaces became covered with patches, the only logical thing to do was to add an extra piece of fabric to make room for more.
On a serious note, though, as someone who had studied the social psychology of dress, I might venture to guess that perhaps one person did it first, then maybe someone else thought that was a good idea and did it too, and then people started emulating the look in (conscious or unconscious) solidarity. Besides lending anonymity, I think any kind of subcultural uniform like that serves the purpose of sending nonverbal signals that the wearer is "part of the group", and shares similar values, ideas, and social location with other people who sport the same dress convention. It's a signifier of membership, sort of like a secret handshake.
I can't really speak to the utility, though, except maybe that it might provide an extra layer of cushion between one's derriere and the cold, hard ground if one were engaging in punk rock pastimes like traveling/squatting/etc. That's pure conjecture and speculation, though. Anyway, just my two cents!
Note: IANAAP (I am not an anarchopunk).
posted by teamparka at 1:00 PM on January 23, 2009
On a serious note, though, as someone who had studied the social psychology of dress, I might venture to guess that perhaps one person did it first, then maybe someone else thought that was a good idea and did it too, and then people started emulating the look in (conscious or unconscious) solidarity. Besides lending anonymity, I think any kind of subcultural uniform like that serves the purpose of sending nonverbal signals that the wearer is "part of the group", and shares similar values, ideas, and social location with other people who sport the same dress convention. It's a signifier of membership, sort of like a secret handshake.
I can't really speak to the utility, though, except maybe that it might provide an extra layer of cushion between one's derriere and the cold, hard ground if one were engaging in punk rock pastimes like traveling/squatting/etc. That's pure conjecture and speculation, though. Anyway, just my two cents!
Note: IANAAP (I am not an anarchopunk).
posted by teamparka at 1:00 PM on January 23, 2009
Besides the insulation, the flap can also be a sort of faux fender for bicyclists.
posted by box at 1:13 PM on January 23, 2009
posted by box at 1:13 PM on January 23, 2009
I find the very existence of an anarcho punk uniform depressing, but have never seen anything like what you're describing. My first thought, though, is that it's an extension of patches just sewn onto the ass of the pants.
As well, given the 'hipness' of bikes amongst us anarchists, it could have originally served as a protection against splattered mud. Do you have any photo examples?
posted by dunkadunc at 2:08 PM on January 23, 2009
As well, given the 'hipness' of bikes amongst us anarchists, it could have originally served as a protection against splattered mud. Do you have any photo examples?
posted by dunkadunc at 2:08 PM on January 23, 2009
My college rugby jacket had a flap just like that. It was so you could sit on wet bleachers. This is the closest I could find.
posted by electroboy at 2:22 PM on January 23, 2009
posted by electroboy at 2:22 PM on January 23, 2009
When I were a lass, the butt flap was a flannel shirt tied around one's waist. I believe that that's what morphed into the backwards-apron one sees today; it has become the essence of flap.
posted by The corpse in the library at 2:44 PM on January 23, 2009
posted by The corpse in the library at 2:44 PM on January 23, 2009
From the bf who, 15 years later, still has and wears his high school crust pants that he hand-sewed/patched/spray-painted:
"There definitely is a bit of a trend with it. I think sarabeth is right though. Someone probably saw it and liked it and the trend kinda grew from there. I added the butt flap to my pants mostly because the ass is literally disintegrating. I had held the pants together with scraps of fabric for years, but there was nothing left to really sew to. I made the flap and attached it to the waist. At the very least, its fun to lift the flap to show people what is and isn't behind it."
And from my perspective, I find it very fun to sneak my hand under the flap in public and poke at the holes in his pants to irritate him.
posted by faunafrailty at 3:45 PM on January 23, 2009 [1 favorite]
"There definitely is a bit of a trend with it. I think sarabeth is right though. Someone probably saw it and liked it and the trend kinda grew from there. I added the butt flap to my pants mostly because the ass is literally disintegrating. I had held the pants together with scraps of fabric for years, but there was nothing left to really sew to. I made the flap and attached it to the waist. At the very least, its fun to lift the flap to show people what is and isn't behind it."
And from my perspective, I find it very fun to sneak my hand under the flap in public and poke at the holes in his pants to irritate him.
posted by faunafrailty at 3:45 PM on January 23, 2009 [1 favorite]
I always assumed it was for being able to sit on the (cold, wet) ground or on (cold, wet) concrete during protests, occupations, etc. Of course, that raises the question as to why socialist or union activists don't use bum flaps for the same purposes; maybe its got too strong a connotation with a specific political fashion/yoof culcha to have become widely adopted.
posted by scody at 4:07 PM on January 23, 2009
posted by scody at 4:07 PM on January 23, 2009
I'm with scody. It's for comfort when sitting on the ground/curb/sidewalk for long periods of time.
posted by maniactown at 6:48 PM on January 23, 2009
posted by maniactown at 6:48 PM on January 23, 2009
It's to hide the around-the-world zip in your bondage trousers. Vivienne Westwood designed garments with bum-flaps in the 70's. Picture doesn't work, but here's a decsription.
posted by oneirodynia at 7:22 PM on January 23, 2009
posted by oneirodynia at 7:22 PM on January 23, 2009
Here's a pic from an auction house of Westwood trousers.
posted by oneirodynia at 7:23 PM on January 23, 2009
posted by oneirodynia at 7:23 PM on January 23, 2009
Oh, and in case it isn't entirely clear: you can shag in public in bondage pants with that style of zip. So it's nice to have a bum flap. I assume anarchists just like to adopt punk style.
posted by oneirodynia at 7:30 PM on January 23, 2009
posted by oneirodynia at 7:30 PM on January 23, 2009
Response by poster: Well, this has been illuminating. From what I gather here it rose initially, like the Sex Pistols, from 70s bondage themed fashion marketing, and embedded even itself even 30 years later in ararcho-punk communities as both a cultural signifier - a banner from which to proclaim alliance with fellow outsiders - and with the added utility of being a) somewhere to hold additional patches, b) an effective means to cover a large hole in the butt of oft-worn pants and c) providing additional comfort and warmth while, for example, lock-boxed to the front doors of the Bechtel headquarters.
Thank you metafilter for clarifying what had been quite a mystery.
posted by serazin at 8:00 PM on January 23, 2009
Thank you metafilter for clarifying what had been quite a mystery.
posted by serazin at 8:00 PM on January 23, 2009
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by box at 12:53 PM on January 23, 2009