I need help finding a very specific combo of things in a place to live in Boston.
October 28, 2008 12:06 PM   Subscribe

I'm shipping up to Boston and I need some help!

I need to find a place to live in Boston with some fairly specific requirements, and also general advice about what living up there is like nowadays.

I've read already some of the really great Boston threads, but I am looking for both updated and new information.

I live in the greater Atlanta area now, which is wonderful, but I have some very close friends who live in the Boston area and a combination of this and other factors are driving me to consider moving there pretty seriously. Boston is at the top of my list of cities (it's a short list).

I've read some great information on places to live, and i'm plotting either Jamaica Plain, Back Bay, or Somerville. I also considered doing slightly crazy things, like living in Gloucester and commuting via train. My SO is in the nursing field, so that has some impact on where we might eventually end up. Is there a nursing shortage in Boston? Are there specific areas that make more sense for a couple to live in when one of them is a nurse?

My ideal place is a brick and beam loft or converted warehouse space, or, alternatively, some place where there are a lot of trees and stone. I hear Jamaica Plain is kind of like the latter but I probably couldn't find a good brick-and-beam there. Somerville is only useful as it gets me closer to my community (pagan/poly folks) of likely friends. Are there any specific advantages to living in any of these places these days? I'll either be working in Cambridge or commuting to the BOS airport frequently, but the length of commute doesn't really bother me - difficulty does, however; I prefer straight shots to train/bike/bus switchovers.

I'm not overly worried about the car situation in Boston, as I rarely leave the house much except for hanging out with friends or work, and I intend on taking transit just about everywhere. So I know about the difficulty of finding parking there.

It would be super awesome if I could be close to a nice study/hangout/coffee house spot with high speed Internet access, a Whole Foods, a decent yoga/pilates or aikido studio, and a Panera Bread franchise, near my living quarters. I've looked around a bit on Google Maps, and i've found some candidates in the areas above, but if you have specific, anecdotal knowledge, that would be great.

Browsing around on Craigslist has led to a lot of spam-type listing for apartments, often the same spot in multiple listings. It seems really hard to find good brick and beam lofts for rent. Are there some options I need to explore separate from the standard renter websites and Craigslist? I live in a home now, so it's been a long time since I looked for a place to rent.

I know a little about the poly community up there, but i'd love some connections to the larger pagan/alt-religion community from the hive mind. I also love to play poker, so if you can offer any connections that way, that would be helpful.

Last but not least, very good high speed Internet access is a huge factor in my decision; if I could find a place with FIOS it would definitely tip the scales.

Thanks for any help you can offer! Feel free to MeMail if you want to share any info privately. I'll be going up there next week to browse apartments and shop around.
posted by arimathea to Travel & Transportation around Boston, MA (29 answers total) 2 users marked this as a favorite
 
what's the range that you and your SO are looking to pay for an apartment?
posted by moxiedoll at 12:14 PM on October 28, 2008


General advice:

First off, how much are you willing to pay for housing? Different areas around Boston have very different prices. For example, living in the Back Bay will cost you 2X what you would pay in JP or Somerville.

Secondly...I'd concentrate on two things.
1. Minimizing the commute for you and your SO. Commuting sucks. There are TONS of hospitals in the Boston area, so it shouldn't be tough to find a nursing job. Since you're going to be working in Cambridge, your SO could look into jobs at MGH or another Cambridge or Somerville hospital, and you'd both have a really easy commute if you lived in Cambridge. Red, Orange, and Blue T lines are the most convenient. The green lines are trolley cars and can be wicked annoying- slow and very crowded.

2. You sound like a funky pair- JP is a pretty funky neighborhood, as are parts of Somerville and Cambridge. Back Bay/downtown are more conservative.
posted by emd3737 at 12:18 PM on October 28, 2008 [1 favorite]


If you want a loft that fits your description, my friends found an amazing one in Fort Point Channel (might be listed as Seaport District or South Boston). They found it through these guys, although the site seems to have changed significantly since they moved in.
posted by mkb at 12:19 PM on October 28, 2008


JP, Back Bay, or Somerville?

Those are some vastly different real estate markets for renters.

Here's my take:

JP is a great place to live if you know the area of JP you're moving to. Parts of JP are still dangerous and sketchy --- not places I'd be caught walking alone a night. Good parts about JP is that it's going through a huge revitalizing process. There's a great bowling alley --- thought to be one of the oldest in the country --- and lots of neat shops and restaurants. You can also get a lot more for your buck in terms of space. Most of the people I know who live in JP live in huge houses with 3 - 5 roommates.

Back Bay is really expensive. A one bedroom will easily cost you upwards of $1600 and it will be really small. Don't even think of looking here unless you have a lot of bank. *A lot of bank* or don't mind a really tiny apartment.

It's important to note that JP and Back Bay are both Boston neighborhoods. You would be a Boston resident and vote in Boston, etc.

Somerville is a separate town (believe it or not, people don't always realize this), and you would vote and be a resident of Somerville. Porter and Davis Squares are hip, artsy areas. You will likely find anywhere from a traditional apartment building to a floor of a house to an entire house type rental situation. Again, you'd get a lot more for your money in Somerville than in Back Bay. You could also check out the Porter Square area of Cambridge (Cambridge and Somerville share a border in the Porter Square area).

You may like parts of Brookline, a town that borders Boston, as well. The only Panera I have seen not along the commuter rail is in Coolidge Corner. Seriously, I know of no other Panera in all of Boston, though I can tell you about all the neat little coffee and sandwich shops in the area. Diesel Cafe in Davis Square, for example. Bagel Rising on Comm. Ave in Allston. Peets Coffee is always good, though not so much for food. Crema Cafe in Harvard Square. Lots of little local chains or stores.

I don't know the reason you have such specific requirements for an apartment, but I would suggest widening your options considerably as Boston's architecture is multifaceted and you'll easily miss out on a great deal for being too restrictive, especially as right now is not the best time for looking for renting. The Boston market is typically September 1st - August 31st with the vast majority of apartments snatched up between March and June -- or at least that's when the best variety of options are available.
posted by zizzle at 12:28 PM on October 28, 2008


I've read some great information on places to live, and i'm plotting either Jamaica Plain, Back Bay, or Somerville.

You should be considering just about anywhere in the Boston area then, because these three neighborhoods are all across the spectrum of types of places to live. No sense getting narrow for the sake of narrow when it seems like you're up for lots of different experiences.

I also considered doing slightly crazy things, like living in Gloucester and commuting via train.

Pure hell. Don't do that. Especially if you don't leave the house much besides work. You'll just end up feeling isolated.

My SO is in the nursing field, so that has some impact on where we might eventually end up. Is there a nursing shortage in Boston? Are there specific areas that make more sense for a couple to live in when one of them is a nurse?

Boston has a crazy percentage of its workforce in health-related fields. It's not hard to get a job in nursing here. Many of the prominent, large hospitals are on the Fenway at the Longwood medical area, so it's most convenient to live in Fenway, Back Bay or the area of Brookline that borders the Fens.

My ideal place is a brick and beam loft or converted warehouse space, or, alternatively, some place where there are a lot of trees and stone.

Post-industrial space like lofts and former warehouses are easiest to come by in:
  • the Leather District (downtown near South Station)
  • or South Boston. And not the famous Irish Catholic residential part of it, but the often-forgotten northern part across the Fort Point Channel from the Financial District. Lots of artists have studios in former industrial space there but are increasingly being chased out as its being converted into living space.
  • The South End, specifically the "Deep South" a few blocks south of Washington. Most people think of the South End as townhouses, but the southern part of it was an industrial district that now has lots of loft living
You're not likely to find a lot of stone in JP. Trees certainly, but most of the buildings are wood. Stone buildings are most prominent in Back Bay. If you'll settle for brick, you can also look at the South End, Bay Village (which is one of Boston's oldest neighborhoods and often overlooked) and southern Charlestown.
posted by Mayor Curley at 12:35 PM on October 28, 2008 [1 favorite]


Response by poster: $1500-$2750 is our range, but obviously we'd like to be as low as possible ($1500 would be comparable with current housing cost, $2000 would be ok, $2750 would be really high).
posted by arimathea at 12:43 PM on October 28, 2008


Response by poster: We are a funky pair, both LGBT-very-friendly, both very alternative. I'm a little more on the "traditional" side but very open minded.
posted by arimathea at 12:44 PM on October 28, 2008


I know of a second Panera's on the waterfront downtown, by Rowes Wharf. Not many options for living near that one though.

Definitely look at Brookline, especially near Coolidge Corner. It's a pretty nice town, though probably a bit expensive in parts, but it'd meet a lot of what you're looking for -- near access to the Green line, buses to Cambridge, walking distance to the Longwood Medical Area, and there's a Whole Foods nearby in Brighton.

I don't know much about FIOS, but I do know that Somerville does not have it and won't get it anytime soon.
posted by toxotes at 1:00 PM on October 28, 2008


Live in Beacon Hill, Back Bay or North End... these are all downtown and have access to whatever you need (T, Bus, Food, Bars, People, Don't know why I capitlized all those things) Walk around, get a feel for the neighborhoods, and pop into any of the real estate offices the line the streets of these neighborhoods. Your budget is enough for a very awesome place. High speed internet is available everywhere. Alternatively you could live in Cambridge, Harvard Square is maybe the best place in the universe, Kendall area has these new condo type places that look out over the city... just go spend a day and walk around. I've called realtors from craigslist and set up appointments in advance in the past which has also worked out well.
posted by pwally at 1:02 PM on October 28, 2008


Left out that I live in the North End, have been here for a little while... its like living the dream so don't forget to check it out. Welcome to Boston (BUY A WINTER JACKET).
posted by pwally at 1:04 PM on October 28, 2008 [2 favorites]


If you considered Gloucester why not consider Lynn? The downtown is full of recently converted shoe and leather factories. The beam and brick type. New restaurants, old diners. Lynn is 35 minutes to the center of Boston via commuter rail. Lynn has three beaches, an observatory, a very large wooded public park (Lynn Woods). cheap rents too.
posted by Gungho at 1:06 PM on October 28, 2008


You can find a comfortable two-bedroom in the Davis Square area for $1500. It won't be a loft, though - most of the apartments in that area are multi-family homes. The apartments are typically one or two floors of a three-floor building. That being said, on my walk from my apartment to Davis there is a series of warehouse conversions (last time I checked they were selling the condos for about half a million, I have no idea what the rentals would go for - certainly more than $1500).

You'd probably enjoy the Davis area; commute's pretty easy, and it's a good mix of hipster-funky and more traditional folk with Red Sox caps and families. Tufts University is right nearby, so there's a big student population. Diesel Cafe is right in the square is a nice hangout (I've heard it's a bit of a gay hangout but I have no idea how true it is). Bars and restaurants are a mix of trendy higher-end to cheaper Irish pubs and your typical fast food/takeout joints.

As far as I can tell, FIOS is not available (not in my apartment, anyway), but Comcast did just announce their super-duper (and super-expensive) internet access option, which will be rolled out in Boston first.

Commuting is incredibly easy from Davis - if you need to get out of the city, Route 2 and I-93 are both very close by, and the Red Line will take you downtown in about a half hour. Connect to the Silver Line and it will take you to every terminal at the airport. A cab ride is between 30 and 40 bucks if you'd rather do that.

Boston's cost of living is pretty high, so if you're stuck on paying what you do now for rent, etc., you might find yourself somewhere not quite up to your standards. Personally, I love the fact that everything here is old. The last place I lived was over a hundred years old. Just keep that in mind when you're looking for a place to live - unless you've got a bit of cash to burn, things are going to look... lived in.
posted by backseatpilot at 1:14 PM on October 28, 2008 [1 favorite]


If the quality of the architecture is more important to you than proximity, but you might consider downtown Lowell (cheaper) or Haverhill (more gentrified) for commuter-rail friendly loft conversions. You won't mistake them for Boston, but both have a nice smaller city urban feel. In Lowell, especially, you'll get a lot more space for your money, in a building with a genuine industrial past. I've heard there are some lofts in Waltham, too. (Lawrence, too, but unless you're a real urban pioneer, you don't want to live there.)
posted by libraryhead at 1:17 PM on October 28, 2008


I live in Davis. Somerville is, I hear, not likely to get FIOS in the near future; there is some fight going on between town hall and Verizon (Verizon only wants to provide FIOS in the high income areas of Somerville; Somerville will only let them provide FIOS if they provide FIOS everywhere in the city; hence no FIOS for anyone). I think we do have yoga/akido/cafes with high speed Internet whatever; I don't really follow that so I don't remember whether the yoga studio is still open or whether it's a front for a cult or not or which cafes have wireless or what.

The Whole Foods is accessible but a little bit of a PITA if you don't have a car; it is not far but the path is not really intended for pedestrians and it feels inconvenient to take the T only one stop.

emd3737's point about commuting is very good. MGH is on the red line; Somerville Hospital isn't on any line at all (it is bus accessible, I think, which is okay for moderate distances), Cambridge Hospital I don't know.

I think I saw a tree in Somerville once. I may even have seen a stone. But seriously AFAIK there isn't a whole lot of the architecture you are looking for here and not really a ton of nature either. We have wood and brick and pavement. I haven't seen a lot of lofts and stuff either (there's a loft development nearby but they are for sale not for rent).
posted by phoenixy at 1:22 PM on October 28, 2008


We found a loft in the North End a year ago and have been very happy there. We walk to Whole Foods and go to the farmers market Mon and Wed. Comcast high speed internet. A very sweet little yoga studio. As far as polytheism... the closest 'round these parts is All Saints Way. Heh. Also, I'd stay out of Lynn & most places on the Blue Line from what I've seen of it, though there is a loft complex at 156 Porter near the Airport stop that is very pretty.

Good luck to you! House hunting in this town is a bitch.
posted by villain extraordinaire at 1:22 PM on October 28, 2008


I vote for JP or Somerville. Somerville edges ahead for transportation, but definitely not for trees and nature. JP trounces just about any other neighborhood for green space. You can find brick and beam in JP, but it will either be renovated and a little expensive, or falling apart and you can do what you like to it. In Somerville, I'm less knowledgeable about the live/work warehouse situation. I know there are some workspaces--Vernon St, Brickbottom, for example. Do a search on Somerville Open Studios to get some addresses for established warehouses. You could do this for JP Open Studios, too. The warehouses tend to be "on the other side of the tracks"--literally the T tracks south of Washington St.--but they're there. I lived in an old brick+beam one for a few years. Amory St, Green St, The Brewery area are all possibilities.

I don't give too much weight to zizzle's characterization of parts of JP as dangerous and sketchy. Not because she isn't right, but because it's true for almost every part of Boston, Cambridge and Somerville (not sure about Gloucester). I live in one of the nicest parts of Cambridge and there are shootings and abandoned cars in the neighborhood every month or so. I just wouldn't let it sway you too much unless you really like your living experience ultra safe. But not sure where I'd point you in Boston if that's your need.

No one has mentioned Lowell, Roslindale, or Medford. I think they're better options if you choose to do your Gloucester-type experiment: closer to Boston, better commute/transportation, and I think there may be some warehouses there that would fit the bill. Medford's reputation is definitely "working class suburb" or "townies" but I have a few friends who lived there as stepping stones to other places and they really liked it, despite initially feeling cornered into it financially as an option. I have a number of friends in Roslindale now, who like it a lot (definitely more artsy types than Medford, and if you want LGBT-friendly, Roslindale's your town).

Is there a nursing shortage in Boston?
A few recent nursing graduates I know have moved out of Boston (to NH) because there is not a nursing shortage here. On the contrary, it's such an obvious place to come, that it tends to be hard for to get a start. If your SO is experienced in the field it might be easier. But "no nursing shortage" is the word from the nurses I know.

Ah, others have mentioned Lowell
posted by cocoagirl at 1:29 PM on October 28, 2008


I've lived in J.P. and now I live in Somerville. I've liked both areas a lot. It's pretty easy to get to the Longwood/Fenway area (lotsa hospitals, maybe the most density of them in the area--someone correct me if I'm wrong, although as others have said, the entire Boston area is lousy with hospitals, clinics, and other related health care institutions) from J.P. Living near the red line in Somerville makes it easy to get anywhere in Cambridge (other than maybe parts of East Cambridge, but those are pretty accessible via bus, as are other northerly and westerly areas).

Brookline is cool too, but pretty college-kid oriented (as a generalization, there are areas that aren't so much), and I personally find Brookline hard to get to from both J.P. and North of the river. Although biking is fast, you just have to go via the Boston hub to get around here on the T, and the buses aren't always a straight shot. If you care--maybe you'll just want to get in and out of Boston, but I wish it were easier for me to go to the Super 88 food court more...yum...

Anyways, I think you'll find getting to Cambridge as well as the airport very easy from Somerville. I don't know if you'll find much of the housing stock that you are looking for in Somerville, unless maybe that sort of thing exists further east and north, in the more post-industrial areas of Somerville (this may not be an accurate characterization, I'm still getting to know all of Somerville myself). I don't know about J.P. but in my past experience the housing was also more like the standard triple-decker style that you see in this area. Somerville housing (at least near Davis Sq.) consists more of 2-family homes, all with roughly the same shape (although I pass by this sometimes and wish I lived there). I don't have a car, I signed up for zipcar recently (there are a TON of zipcar parking spots in Somerville, dunno about J.P.). But, there seems to be a fair amount of parking in Somerville too, and most homes here have driveways based on my observations.

Lessee...good coffeeshops in Somerville that I frequent are Diesel and True Grounds. They both have internet but I think you have to pay for it at Diesel. Grocery shopping is okay...I don't care for Shaws, but it works alright for most things. I've been going to farmer's markets for produce, there are a bunch around here. I go to the Whole Foods at Alewife with a zipcar here and there, and that's pretty easy. You can also get there via walking from Alewife, but you may or may not find that arduous. I moved back here from NYC so I'm used to walking more than some, I think. Or maybe I just like to walk, I dunno.

There are a number of places to do yoga in Somerville, but I've heard this one is quite good. I've also seen a few Aikido places in Somerville. Don't know what's in J.P., but I bet there are similar offerings.

Lotsa trees in both Somerville and J.P., but J.P. probably wins on that. I used to live across from the Arboreteum in J.P. and it was AWESOME. That may be the thing I miss the most about living there.

Dunno about good internet, I use a Comcast (blech) cable connection and I work from home, and it can be slow which is frustrating. But it works okay.

I hope this helps. If you want to look me up next week when you're in Somerville, message me privately. I work from home so I could pretty easily take a break and give you a quick tour of some Somerville hotspots. Unless it's the 4th...I may be out of town doing GOTV stuff...
posted by dubitable at 1:52 PM on October 28, 2008


If you have a car and decide to live in Brookline, make sure you get a place with a parking spot. Cars are not allowed on the street after 2am, so if your apt doesn't come with a parking spot, you'll have to pay someone to park in their backyard. I think it's a cottage industry in Brookline. 12 years ago, I had to pay someone $100 a month to park in their backyard and it was a mile from my house. P.I.T.A. Especially if you have guests who might stay overnight.
posted by SheIsMighty at 2:03 PM on October 28, 2008


Brookline is awesome and seems to have pretty much everything you are looking for. If US visas were easier to come by I'd move there in a shot.
posted by nunoidia at 2:17 PM on October 28, 2008


A few people have mentioned Brookline - I live in Coolidge Corner, here's how it measures up to your post:

Lofts - not really, although we did find an open spacious apartment with exposed brick. Lots of parks and trees.

Cambridge - There's a bus to Harvard Square, and Cambridgeport is arguably within walking distance. Other than that, it can be a pain because you have to take the trolleys inbound before you can go much of anywhere on the T.

Whole Foods, Panera, several coffee shops, a couple of yoga places are all within a few blocks, as are many restaurants and shops. Longwood Medical area is within walking distance.

No FIOS yet. I don't know about the near future.

The vibe is definitely tolerant but a bit less 'alternative' than some of the other areas you mentioned. A lot of liberal upper-middle-class young couples, but that's anecdotal and not necessarily a fair generalization. I don't know much about the spiritual scene here.

We pay about $2200 for a one bedroom, but it's a fairly nice, big one-bedroom.
posted by dreadpiratesully at 2:36 PM on October 28, 2008



If you're going to have to commute to Cambridge, I would not necessarily recommend JP if you're going to want to take public transportation. Well, I guess it depends on the definition of a long commute for you. I live near the Stoneybrook stop on the Orange Line in JP. We love JP; it's awesome. In any case, it takes a minimum of 40 minutes for me to get from there to Downtown Crossing to switch to the red line to get to Central Square in Cambridge, MA. Driving would take about 20 minutes. I'm not sure about the bus.

JP near Jackson Square is definitely sketchy. The street over from mine has a few drug busts a year and there was a shooting in the part last year, but my street is relatively safe and quiet. And we love JP. However, last I heard, The Milky Way bowling / bar will be closing and it's restaurant half, Bella Luna, will be moving "sometime soon".

From Stoneybrook, it takes about 30 minutes to get to the airport and involves a switch to the blue line at State Street.

JP is super convenient to the Longwood Medical Area. You can walk, take the bus, or drive, all pretty quickly. Taking the T could potentially involve a walk or bus to Heath St station at the end of the Green Line or taking the Orange Line to the Green Line.

I've also lived in Medford and actually really liked it. 15 years ago it was a bit sketchy, but has gotten a lot better. I commuted for years from East Medford (east of Medford Square) to downtown Boston either by an express bus or taking the bus to the Orange Line to Chinatown.

Why Panera? Do you just really like it or something, or is it the free wifi?

You'll probably really like Inman Square in Sommerville. It's got good bus service.

A lot will depend on where you and your SO have to commute to. I would definately not recommend Lynn or Haverhilll; those are suburban death and will seem way out on the moon to you. Brookline may be challenging to commute to Cambridge without a car.

I recommend checking out the MBTA's trip planner service, which they've now posted right on their front page: http://mbta.com/ so that you can estimate what your commutes would be from various locations.
posted by reddot at 2:43 PM on October 28, 2008


I used to live in Boston (Hyde Park: only commuter rail, not T, and can be quite sketchy). Now I live in midtown Atlanta (roughly comparable to the nicer parts of JP, and I pay less than $1500 for 1800 sqft). Depending on where in the greater Atlanta area you live, you will likely have sticker shock, especially in the neighborhoods you mention and if you're expecting comparable square footage. Given your work in Cambridge and frequent Logan trips, you might look in the Oak Square area of Brighton, which requires a bus ride to the Green Line but is also just across the river from Harvard and right on the Mass Pike, plus decent street parking.

Have you actually spent time in Boston, riding the T and visiting the areas that interest you? Boston was very different than I expected it to be. Even though the geography is much more compact than it is where you now live, it takes forever to get places because the roads wander. Even though Gloucester looks close on the map, it is culturally a world away (like, say, living in Fayette County and thinking one lives in Atlanta).

That said, I like driving in Boston a lot more than I like driving in Atlanta.
posted by catlet at 3:30 PM on October 28, 2008


I moved here in May, so I know what you're going through in terms of the housing search. I would make a strong pitch for looking for housing only after you have some idea where you or your SO will be working. I live in the West End (just to the west of the North End), and it is a convenient 15 minute walk to my office. I have never been impressed with the public transportation here, and I think you'll generally be happier if you're not spending a lot of time waiting for the T (or, god forbid, a bus outside in the winter). The West End is itself a relatively drab neighborhood, but it's right by Mass General's huge complex, where I think nursing jobs would abound.

Personally, when my lease runs out in May, I will be moving to the South End. My GF just got a great place there with a lovely garden for 1700 or so. The South End has the BU Medical Campus and the New England Medical Center nearby. Tufts Medical Center isn't far either. Other people can give you much better advice in that regard than I. The South End is very LGBT friendly.

Also note that we are in the off season for apartment rentals, which means that while there are fewer rentals on the market, you probably can get a better deal on them.

Lastly, given that we are in the off season, landlords are likely to be willing to accept shorter leases so ensure that the units go back on the market at the peak season (August-ish). I would focus on location/proximity to work and price now, live here for a bit, find neighborhoods you like, and then move again (if you can stomach it) next summer. FiOS and Panera locations should not enter into the equation when you're just moving in for the first time.
posted by Admiral Haddock at 3:31 PM on October 28, 2008


just to add my own $.02 -- and also chime in: what's with the Panera requirement? I can understand Whole Foods, but if you want a place that prides itself on good bread, but you will not go for want for good sandwich bakeries in Boston/Cambridge.

I've lived in Brookline (Brookline Village), Cambridge (Inman), Somerville (Davis/Teele) and Boston (Kenmore), and here are my capsules pros and cons for each of the neighborhoods.

Brookline -- close to Longwood and high concentration of hospital jobs, no lofts, population is a mix of Harvard Med students, doctors, old Jewish families and well-funded BU and BC students. Coolidge Square Cinema is a consistently awesome repertory theatre, Trader Joes is your crunchy grocery option, nearest Whole Foods is near Washington Square, which is not T/bus convenient unless you're near the Allston border or in Brookline Village. Inexplicably high density of sushi restaurants on the Coolidge/Village axis. Not particularly alternative, but close to Allston Rock City and JP if that's where you want to hang out. Resident parking laws are bizarre and it's almost better not to own a car while living here.

JP -- also close to Longwood, and definitely more bohemian/multicultural than Brookline. T service is the Orange line, which tends to be less well-maintained/cleaned than Red or Green, and only gives you easy access to Boston downtown... getting north of the river would be arduous. No nearby Whole Foods, but the Harvest Co-op is a decent alternative. Good selection of Irish pubs between here and Mission Hill. Nice green space, better chance of scoring a loft/conversion.

Cambridge\Inman -- definitely more expensive. no easy access to the T and you're limited to buses. Restaurants options are phenomenal and this neighborhood should be a priority if you fancy yourself a foodie. Whole Foods down Prospect on the way to Central Square, but it's hardly necessary between Savenor's, New Deal Fish Market, Live Poultry Fresh Killed and Christina's Spice Shop. Between 1369 and The Biscuit you have a couple of good options for coffeehouse hangouts. Parking is a pain in the ass, though, especially on weekends due to restaurant crowds and proximity to the Somerville border (and the towns aren't keen on letting the other's residents park in their streets). One of the cheaper neighborhoods to live in in Cambridge, though that's not saying much.

Somerville -- trendy for 10 years and still going. Diesel is the standby coffeehouse hangout, especially now that Someday is gone. Bike path is a nice amenity and gives you some green space. The Davis Square plaza also makes for fun people watching on a summer or autumn evening. There are some warehouse and church conversion lofts, but these are increasingly rare, the standby architectural style is still the triple-decker three family home. If you can, get off-street parking. On street becomes a headache in the winter due to snow cleaning.
posted by bl1nk at 7:17 PM on October 28, 2008 [1 favorite]


You're going to have a very, very hard time finding an affordable, well-situated brick and beam loft or live/work warehouse space. Most such places in Boston have succumbed to the cancerous spread of overpriced apartments and condos; some of these new condos are loft-style, but they're probably way out of your price range. Many warehouses are also not zoned for live/work stuff. However, you can get pretty much everything else you're looking for in Cambridge/Somerville (and probably JP, though I know less about that area.) Note that Cambridge and Somerville are right next to each other, and pretty much everything in either town is easily accessible via T, foot, bike, or bus.

Culture: Cambridge/Somerville are incredibly LGBT friendly. Diesel Cafe (mentioned earlier) has a poly night, even. Cambridge is often called the People's Republic of Cambridge; this is only half a joke. You will have absolutely no problem finding yoga, aikido, pagan/poly stuff, and really anything else. If your interest in warehouse space is partly due to artistic interests, there are groups of artists who've started shared studios to make up for the small size of the usual two/three apartment houses in the area. (A new one - Willoughby and Baltic - just started up in the middle of Davis, for example.) Somerville and Cambridge are great if you're interested in live music, indie movies or theater, museums, etc.

Stores: There are two Whole Foods near Central Square and one huge one in Alewife; there's a local co-op called Harvest in Central, and there are scads of upscale Shaws (as well as good bakeries, butchers, etc. I'm sure there are some Paneras around, but if it's just good coffee, sandwiches, and WiFi you're looking for, Central, Harvard, Inman, and Davis have scads of great coffeeshops (1369, Diesel, True Grounds, Burdick's, Crema Cafe, etc.) Tibetan food? Marxist bookshops? More thrift stores than you can shake a stick at? All easy to find.

Commuting: Public transportation in Boston is pretty damn decent, but if you're commuting during work hours, and you need to switch lines, both T and Commuter Rail can be a huge pain. If you want to work in Cambridge and your wife wants to work in a hospital, living on the Red Line and looking for nursing jobs around MGH is probably your best bet. Longwood's got a large cluster of hospitals, but it's a pain to get to - it's on the D and E Green lines, which are rather less reliable than the Red Line. Commuting from Camberville to Longwood is a 45ish minute ordeal that requires you to switch to the Green Line in the busiest T station. Not a great way to start a morning. The Commuter Rail comes less frequently, costs more, and has limited hours: definitely not great unless you want to make your car a much bigger part of your lifestyle than it currently is. Red Line to Silver Line to your terminal at BOS is probably the quickest way to the airport.

If you're willing to compromise a little on the style of building you want to live in - Boston just doesn't have that many semi-intact post-industrial areas, and most buildings are brick and wood, not steel and stone - there's definitely a lot of stuff you'd potentially enjoy.
posted by ubersturm at 12:00 PM on October 29, 2008 [1 favorite]


Response by poster: Thanks everyone for all the suggestions - I got a lot to think over. The Panera thing is mostly because I used to visit them when they were a small bread company in my hometown of St. Louis and it's been a constant for me here in Atlanta.

As far as the brick/beam/warehouse thing, your suggestions have helped me find plenty of spaces, many expensive but definitely within the price range and with plenty of funk. We were aware of the crowd at Diesel so appreciate those pointers, and we'll try to find the right connections in the alt-religion/pagan community.

We'll definitely be doing some square-cruising and walking around next week in order to find the right space and areas for us and will be checking out JP, Somerville, a variety of places in the South End, some places near Fort Point Channel, and Cambridge (while the area looks great I can't find many places I want to live in). We can't wait to visit.

Thanks again for all your great tips and help, the responses here have been IMMENSELY helpful.
posted by arimathea at 12:40 PM on October 29, 2008


Interesting tidbit. Rental costs in Boston have risen 2.5% recently as the number of people choosing(or forced) to rent rather than own has increased, and the number of people displaced by foreclosure has increased pressure on viable rentals.
posted by Gungho at 1:11 PM on October 29, 2008


you really ought to add Brookline (Coolidge Corner) to your exploring list. there's a lot to love - not least of which is the easy access to Downtown Boston and much of Cambridge.
You've been given such great information so far that I don't want to duplicate - I just want to say that while many people super-love JP, I wouldn't want to live there. There are many good points - it's urban yet feels like a suburb... it's the most diverse (as far as age, ethnicity, income) of the major metro-Boston neighborhoods.... there are plenty of cool people and places - but it's also REALLY FAR AWAY from anything else. Really. People will say it's convenient - but they're lying to you.
posted by moxiedoll at 10:58 PM on October 29, 2008


I live in the North End and LOVE it. From here you can walk to many hospitals, the cafe choices are endless. You can walk to whole foods and a car is really optional.
posted by newjen at 1:19 PM on November 29, 2008


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