Ask MetaFilter questions tagged with renovation

How many elephants can dance in a room before the floor collapses?

pluckysparrow — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 19:43:09 -0800

Who do I hire to advise and/or reassure me on structural issues in my old house? I own a house that is almost 100 years old. I love this house and have no plans to move, however some of the floors are slanty and wavy, particularly in the master bedroom, which is directly above the large living room. The living room ceiling plaster has buckled and is bulging and I need to hire someone to repair it. I think the previous owners may have had a water bed in the master bedroom at one point. The living room floor is similarly wavy. The bathroom floor on the first floor slopes and is slightly bouncy. I had a new toilet installed earlier this year and the plumber mentioned that I "probably need to have the floor replaced" but when pressed was vague on the level of urgency.

I have owned the house for 5 years and had it inspected. The inspector recommended several plumbing and electrical updates be made (which were completed), but otherwise did not comment on the sloping floors and ceilings. The previous owners had the house jacked up and the basement foundation repoured, so some of the irregular angles and planes of the house may be due to this.

I'm finding myself increasingly paranoid about the floors caving in my house. I get nervous when I have a group of people over and they are all standing in one room. I keep my bed pushed up against the wall because of the slope in the floor. I confess that some of this might be due to anxiety on my part. As I get ready to hire a person to redo my living room ceiling, I'd also like to pay someone to come over and tell me if my worries are justified and if I need to have some structural work done on the house. Who do I contact to have an assessment like this done?

this will end well

ddaavviidd — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 07:58:38 -0800

[Renovation DIY filter] I need to install window wells for my basement windows. Is a drain really necessary or can I get away just by filling it with gravel? Few more details. This is in Qc, Canada, so lots of snow in the winter. The window sills are pretty much at ground level (perhaps 2-3" above). We have a french drain around the foundation, leading to a sump pump. I'd like to get away without drains going away from foundations because they would have to be quite long to end up in a lower terrain (about 50'), thus requiring machinery and huge trenches...

Can I put a vertical drain going all the way to the french drain? Is this a recommended method, or should I just dig a hole and fill it with gravel? How would I "cap" this drain?

pimp my ceiling (something other than drywall)

iiniisfree — Wed, 02 Sep 2009 21:07:01 -0800

Pimp my ceiling! The prior owner had 4 parrots and I want to ditch the fowl acoustical tile in my living room. Is there any source for pressed tin (or a reasonable fake) or wainscot that won't leave me squalking? I've tested the acoustical tile for asbestos, though I don't know yet if they're attached by adhesive or fir-strip. Due to aforementioned parrot funk, I think I should rip the acoustical tile out, and start fresh.

Below (above?) that is cement plaster- but after several years of water leaks, I think painting it will reveal a lot of cracking and flaws.

I love LOVE the look of pressed tin- but am unsure about installation, and the cost compared to drywall (2100$ for the drywall/mud/tape). The room is 16x32, rectangle with just the 4 corners. I pretty much eliminated the idea of wainscot due to this post. Also, I'm in a rural area where I pay through the nose for shipping.

Do cheaper/faux tin tiles exist, say that might go up with adhesive, or did I make that up?

This is a 1920's home, with a sightseeing pedestrian route on the street below- I'd like to look up to something more ...ethereal. Ideas?

Please help me determine if an architect is necessary, and if so find one

Herkimer — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 09:16:44 -0800

Would it be a good idea to hire an architect for this job? Can you recommend one in my northern New England area, or can you recommend ways to find a good one? Any thoughts on how much the job should cost? We live in a house that was built in 1980 and that has been added on to twice. As a result of the additions it has a kind of funky/atraditional interior structure and there are some spaces that are just strange shapes. Also, it was originally built to be passive solar, so a large part of a major internal wall is concrete (to act as heat-retaining thermal mass), and most of the house sits on a very thick concrete slab, which complicates interior renovations.

My husband and I would like to put in a third bath, upstairs laundry room (there is a laundry, but it's currently downstairs), and renovate the main bath. We would do most to all of the work ourselves, spaced out over time; we can't afford it otherwise. But, due to the funky interior, as well as the complications associated with running water lines or ducts (because of all that concrete), I think it could be helpful to hire an architect as a consultant. I envision him/her helping us plan the work: where to place fixtures and storage, where to run water/ducts, and so on. I don't think we would even need drawings; I would just like a professional's input on how we can make the best use of our space and address the challenges it presents.

We tried hiring a contractor for a similar job back when we owned another house, and I was not at all happy with the results; he didn't tell us anything we didn't know already. However, I believe an architect is much more trained in this kind of question.

I don't know anyone in the area who has hired an architect, and there are no recommendations on Angie's List.

Several questions:

1) Is this something an architect would indeed do?
1a) If not, who would?
2) Can you recommend one in my area?*
3) Or can you recommend any ways to find a good one?
4) I know the specifics of the job will affect the cost to a great degree, but I am interested in any thoughts on how long the job should take, how much it should cost (per hour), and/or how much it should cost total?
5) Have you done anything similar yourself? Is this a strange request or a common one? Anything else we should consider that I haven't thought about? Is there a different way we should approach the problem?

* My approximate location should be visible to MeFi members. Please let me know if it's not.

Thank you!

Grrrrrrrrrrrout!

spicynuts — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 11:23:39 -0800

Grout - how do I remove it without removing shower tiles? Pictures and detailed question inside. The grout that creates the seal between my tub and the bottom row of shower tiles is cracked and in some places has gaps. I would like to remove just this line of grout between the tub and tiles and replace with caulk. I bought a grout tool but it doesn't seem to make any headway against this concrete-like material. How do I get the grout out without removing the tiles?

Here is a pic of the basic set up.

Here is a close up of the general grout line sealing the tub

Here is a close up of what happened when I tried to use the grout tool - note I could not get more than the already loosened grout to come out.

Do I need a grout saw? Do I need to remove the tiles entirely and regrout the upper seam and the caulk at the tub?

Should I keep the historic designation on my future home?

iiniisfree — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 22:26:33 -0800

RenovationFilter: I'm attempting to buy a registered historic home. The bank might require some repairs which, if required and done, could coincide with other renovation that may or may not affect the historic designation (roofing/ windows etc). What resources or advice might inform my decisions? What changes affect the historic designation? Perhaps not all changes affect designation? Some of the windows surely aren't original, for example... But can I expand a dormer without losing the historic designation? What considerations will help me decide if I should do it anyway?

Are there good sources of information about what to do about weighing the tradeoffs between the original windows and something more energy efficient? Techniques for dealing with lead paint on the siding?
Is there an on-line source for small-pane windows? The standard dimensions of the vinyl ones just make me sad!

I've had the place inspected, and was thrilled with the verdict: no (unexpected) skeletons. I plan to own this one for a lifetime, so I'm inclined to make choices for personal preference rather than maximizing immediate economic value. The historical aesthetic is more important to me than the designation itself.

This (1920's) house is in a state which does not offer (tax/loan) breaks for historic homes, but where might I check for federal benefits for restoration/renovation, if any exist?

Bathroom renovation in Sydney

Admira — Sat, 02 May 2009 15:46:35 -0800

Gday, Can anyone recommend a company to do a bathroom renovation in the inner west of Sydney? Or any hints and tips on picking a company, costs etc? Convenience, time and cost are all (naturally) important. Thanks!

Help me be an informed remodeler.

medusa — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 18:59:56 -0800

Please recommend resources for learning about home remodeling, particularly basement finishing. I am starting the process of getting the basement of my house finished. (Note that I will not do most of the work myself; I'm planning to hire a contractor.) I would like recommendations for books, websites, or other resources to learn about the remodeling process, what questions to consider, common problems and how to avoid them, what to watch out for, etc.

So far I have read information at www.buildingscience.com, which I think is great. It has specific recommendations about basement finishing that I found helpful.

Other building science resources would be helpful, but I also want to learn about design and planning, budgeting, finding a contractor, negotiating with the contractor, dealing with construction, and anything else I should know but haven't thought of yet.

Architect for SF Renovation

squishy — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 23:08:23 -0800

Looking for architects and other resources for home renovation project in San Francisco. Modern, green, yada yada. I'm starting my first home project - probably a 3-story renovation of our single-family Victorian. We have lots of ideas but not a lot of direction so far, and want to start talking to people who can help guide us and ask and answer questions.

We definitely need someone who's done work in San Francisco before, and are very interested in a modern aesthetic and green building, though we're not sure how much of that is materials and how much is design.

Resources? Hook me up with architects, builders, books, blogs, or general advice. Anything that helped you with your project.

What are these wires for?

SNACKeR — Fri, 10 Apr 2009 07:14:44 -0800

What are these wires for in my kitchen? I am doing some reno this weekend, and removed a wall plate to find these six white wires that look like telephone wire. The wire colours are red, yellow, black, green. Why would 6 telephone wires be run to the kitchen? This house was built in 1992. It is not wired for media as far as I know (no evidence of wires/jacks elsewhere in the house). It does have a security system, but those wires are all running to the control panel located by the front door.

I would like to just cover these up permanently if they have no use, but I don't want to do that if they are charged.

Any ideas why they would be here? Can I drywall over them?

Old house bought: check. Now what?

Michael Roberts — Thu, 26 Mar 2009 19:52:59 -0800

So I seem to have bought a house. For $8000. Now what? Background: remember how you keep reading that the real estate market in, like, Detroit and Indiana have collapsed? And how foreclosures can be really inexpensive? Well, I kind of made this impulse decision, and ... closed yesterday, and ... I have a hell of a lot of house now. The first link is background on the story, including aerial photography; the second link is the Flickr set from the pictures my sister took after closing.

I'll actually be getting there in mid-May. Yes. I now own a house that I have never seen.

My questions for Renovation Filter fall into two categories.

First and foremost: although I'm not a builder by trade, nor do I play one on TV, I do have some experience; my father built our house while I was growing up, and I helped, and I've owned property since then. But this is a far, far bigger project than I've ever tackled.

Where should I start learning? Does anyone have pointers as to prioritization? Note: the roof is three years old, so that, at least, should not be a major problem. I have decided to fix the walls and ceiling with actual plaster, both because it feels right for a house built in 1890, and because it's more mold-resistant (allergies in the family), and just plain solider. I want this house to last another 120 years, at least.

Does anyone have advice about renovating all that woodwork? How about repairing the hole in the parlor floor? (The photo is not so great, but trust me, you'll see what I mean.)

Any advice on procurement of inexpensive building materials?

My second and even more open-ended question is this: what suggestions, besides the obvious (insulation) do you have for post-hoc greening of this structure? Solar heat? Greenhouse?

I'm not in a hurry. I have about two months to achieve minimum livability for my family (early/mid-May to July 2; they'll be traveling), and with that much space, basic livability can apply to just a subset of the house -- essentially, any demolition and any mold removal should be done in that period.

But after that, I expect the full renovation to be a multi-year project.

Can I use metal paint on wood?

torticat — Tue, 24 Feb 2009 05:13:47 -0800

What exactly does it mean for paint to be formulated "for metal substrates only"? Can I use it on wood? My husband and I are working (very sloooowly) on renovating a 120-year-old-house. All the original woodwork was stripped out of the house before we moved in, and since we can't afford to redo it in natural oak, we're putting in poplar and painting it. Years ago I chose an oil paint but apparently didn't read the fine print, which I just noticed says the paint is "for metal substrates only." I've already used in on a few surfaces: doors, spindles, crown molding. However, we still have the bulk of painting ahead of us--all the base moldings, window and door frames, etc. Is it a bad idea to continue using this paint?

I'm particularly interested in durability, since this is an immense painting project (three-story house). The already-painted surfaces (painted in the range of two to five years ago) have chipped in places, but I'd attributed that to poor surface prep. The doors and spindles had been previously painted/varnished, and I lightly sanded before painting but probably could have scuffed them up a bit more. But now I'm wondering if the formulation of metal paint keeps it from adhering well to wood?

The paint is Glidden Ultra-Hide oil/alkyd interior/exterior semi-gloss. Any info on how paints & substrates work together will be much appreciated.

fix or sell?

thinkingwoman — Thu, 22 Jan 2009 05:50:23 -0800

i am trying to decide whether it makes more sense (financially) to renovate our house or sell it and start over somewhere else. obviously there are all sorts of intangibles whose worth only i can determine. but assuming all psychological tradeoffs between this place and a new place are equal, here's the situation:

we have a small 2-bedroom house in a transitional neighborhood. the biggest minus is that it's on a flood plain and heavy rains turn our back yard into a lake for a day or two. not a huge deal, but we have dogs.

the plus is that we are, unlike 99% of americans, living beneath our means and can save, which is important to us. still, for long-term happiness, there are some changes that we'd like to make (installing a second bathroom, replacing the deck, turning the garage into another room, etc.).

assuming the cost of the renovations would equal the cost of a down payment on a new house, which makes more sense? the house next door, which is similar to ours, has been on the market for six months, so we are not optimistic about being able to sell anytime soon.

obviously, you are not a real estate agent or anything like that. i'm just looking for some guidance about how to think about the question and weigh the criteria.

Looking for rectangular paintable ductwork that looks as good (and works as well) as boxing it in with drywall.

winston — Sun, 05 Oct 2008 09:12:22 -0800

We just boxed in with drywall a round 5" heating duct, running from floor to ceiling in the corner of the living room. Because of some odd features of the room, this took up more space than it should. What I'd really like is to replace the duct (and drywall) with a paintable rectangular duct running up the corner of the room, that would look just as good as drywall. This would have to be rugged enough to withstand small children playing in the room (e.g. not dent like typical metal duct). Does this exist? When I search for paintable duct, I get stuff that's intended to run across the ceiling, not be good as a wall. (e.g. I suspect that the metal duct would not only dent, but the paint would flake off when it did dent).

FWIW, the duct was already there and the renovation we just did made the box much smaller than it had been, but I want more.

The duct will have to make a 90-degree turn into a round duct immediately above the ceiling.

Fire! Fire! Don't try this at home.

26.2 — Fri, 19 Sep 2008 12:24:40 -0800

My house had two fireplaces which were walled over by the prior owner. I'd like to reopen them and possibly retro fit them to be gas fireplaces. How horrible (read expensive and time consuming) of a construction job would this be? House is stucco from the 1920s. Raised foundation which makes running the gas lines easier. My house is in San Diego and does have a floor furnace in one room, but the house gets chilly/clammy in the winter. Also, would this renovation add any value to my home at resale?

I'm great with graph paper but...

rokusan — Tue, 02 Sep 2008 11:09:20 -0800

Advice/tips on re-tiling a kitchen floor... I seem to have volunteered myself into helping a friend install new resilient tile in her upstate townhouse (kitchen) this weekend. I'm reasonably handy but three sub-issues have me head-scratching...

The previous floor and tile was scrapped because water leaked into it somehow... under/between the tiles, into the subfloor, which warped and bent, causing the tiles above to shift and pop out. After that experience with professional installers (reno a few years ago) she decided to do the replacement herself this time. I'm coming in late, after the floor is done but before the tiling.

The old water-ruined floor was ripped out, and the new floor has been built on top of the joists. (Two layers of 3/4 inch plywood plus a 1/4 super-smooth prefab underlay on top). I checked it out this past weekend, and the new flooring seems very smooth, solid and stable to me (no bouncing, no squeaking, no movement at all from what I can tell by walking/jumping on it), maybe because she used about six million screws to hold it down. She's busy this week using wood-filler to fill all the screw holes so it's a uniform smooth surface before tiling.

The tiles she already bought are resilient vinyl of the adhesive-backed kind (peel off paper backing, apply tile). They're thicker than I thought vinyl tile would be (I can bend them, barely, but they're very solid), and even textured like stone. Fancy. They're to be spaced like ceramic tile, with 1/4-inch grout, and she has bought some premixed grout for that (it's the consistency of sandy peanut butter, yum).

The instructions ask for no special pre-treatment to the floor other than a fresh layer of paint-primer, which I suppose improves adhesion. But the Lowe's person she bought them from "strongly" recommended also applying a few brush-strokes of floor adhesive to the (primed) floor beneath as she worked, so she bought a quart of that too.

That's the backstory and state of the project. Three questions...

(1) I dripped some water on the underlay and noticed that it beaded and stayed that way for hours, so clearly the underlay has some sort of water-resistance already. But is any additional waterproofing needed (varathane?) or will the resilient tile plus adhesive be waterproof enough? Obviously, she's paranoid about a re-occurance of the water-seeping-in damage in the future, and one should be able to spill water on a kitchen floor without worry, I think?

(2) I understand how to "start from the middle and work out" when tiling, because I've done some garden work with paving stones before, and I'm pretty good at these geometry puzzles... but here's a question that I can't settle in my own head: should she tile the entire floor, including underneath where the "built-in" kitchen cabinets will be (re)installed later, or just tile up to that point, and replace the cabinets on their bases screwed directly into the wood floor? (The cabinets had to be torn out to re-floor, so they're sitting in her dining room now.)

(3) Again on the water worry: is there any super-coating or special treatment that can or should be applied to the finished floor, on top of the tiles and grout? The tile, grout and adhesive instructions don't mention this either way. Teflon coating? Wax? What?

I have read a few things like this but they haven't helped me with these two questions.

Any other tips that will make me seem floor-tile smart when I return next weekend will also be appreciated. :)

Bathroom renovation project help, please.

longsleeves — Wed, 20 Aug 2008 18:27:48 -0800

How can I get paint off a porcelain bathtub? It's a non-latex flat interior paint that was applied to part of the surface, and it's very noticeable and ugly in an off-white color that does not match the original surface. Someone suggested scraping it off with a single edge razor blade but I worry that will scratch the finish, not to mention taking forever.

I don't think it was done to cover any stains or rust, it looks like somebody just started to paint it one day and didn't finish.

Keeping my hot side hot and my cool side crisp

Shepherd — Fri, 15 Aug 2008 06:19:17 -0800

When is a heat pump worth it? [warning: a bit long] Due to circumstances that are really too long to explain, I need to totally remove my oil heating system and replace it with an electric system. Quotes to tear out the old furnace, upgrade my ductwork and put in an electric furnace come in at about $4K. That's pretty much a given. Adding a heat pump, however, would cost about $5K to $6K. I currently have no air conditioning in my very old house with very old windows, and while I don't mind suffering a bit to save a few bucks, my fiancée is very much of the opposite opinion... but she currently lives in the southern States, and isn't really familiar with Canadian summers (it only gets stinkin' hot from about mid-July to mid-August where I live).
The pluses of getting the heat pump are essentially that I'm getting everything torn up to put the new furnace in and wired up right now, and installing something like a heat pump later would be much less convenient than getting it done now. It's also a "fire and forget" kind of solution for the next era of home ownership: get it done and it'll never have to be done again.
It's a two-story house built into a hill, so the upper floor is at street level and is entirely aboveground; the lower floor is below street level but is 90% aboveground thanks to the slope of the hill. About 80% of my time is spent on the upper floor -- the lower floor is my workshop, workout room, guest room, furnace room, storage space and a second bathroom. Total square footage is about 1800 sq.ft. divided evenly between the floors.
Since I've never had electric heat OR air conditioning, I'm in no position to compare expenditures vs. projected savings to cost out whether it's worthwhile. I'm tempted to put the $6K towards new windows, but that'd just be a drop in the bucket as far as window-replacement costs. The windows I have now are entirely unsuitable for window-mount air conditioners, and I'm not convinced those are a good idea at the best of times.
Most of the resources I've found re. heat pumps need you to figure out what you've been spending on heating/cooling for the past X years, but I don't have any such data. Previous threads like the one for Atlanta thread is interesting but not especially relevant for my situation. The Arkansas AskMe was a bit more helpful, but I'm more interested in its cooling properties than the heating ones.
I can't think of any other relevant information, but feel free to post more questions if that'll help me puzzle out whether or not this is a good move.
The environment is also a concern: while I know a standard air conditioner would be cheaper, is there one option that is much more green than the other? I'm already happy to be switching from oil to electric, as Quebec power is relatively green (mostly hydroelectric from northern dams).

Good source for attractive doorhandles?

The corpse in the library — Thu, 31 Jul 2008 14:15:29 -0800

Do you know where I can get some inexpensive and attractive lever-style doorhandles? I want to replace the hideous doorknobs in my house. My friendly neighborhood door store sells the perfect doorhandles, but they cost $175 each. I'm hoping to spend closer to $35 each. Schlage has some lever-style doorknobs that are the right price, but the style isn't quite right -- they're flat, not round.

Any suggestions? I'm in the US, near Seattle, and like shopping on-line.

Help me find new soap dish holders for my tiled walls

acoutu — Sun, 20 Apr 2008 23:01:07 -0800

How can I fix a peeling soap dish in my tile? Both of my bathrooms have soap dishes or soap holders built into the wall. The dishes are peeling and starting to rust (where exposed). I have not been able to find lookalike (or even same size) soap dishes anywhere. I've been to a lot of tile stores, bathroom stores, hardware stores, etc.

I can't just paint the dishes myself. This is a pretty upscale condo in an even more upscale neighbourhood. Whatever I do has to look good.
I don't want to retile the bathrooms. I've got small kids and I have been through the process of demo and retiling before. I also don't want to be paying big bucks to replace tiny soak dish folders. The current tile is in excellent condition.
In a best case scenario, I would simply find soap dishes that fit and put them in. It looks like I can just undo a screw and take them out.
I'd be willing to consider electroplating, dipping or some other professional service. However, I don't know anything about that, let alone where to find someone to do it. I'm in Vancouver, Canada.

Any suggestions for what I can do? Thanks.

Redoing Bathroom Without Taking a Bath

Xurando — Fri, 22 Feb 2008 06:40:33 -0800

Bathroom Renovation Filter: DIY vs. Contractor We are planning for a bathroom renovation. We would like to keep the cost under $2000. We are replacing a vanity/sink fiberglass shower unit, and tiling floors. I think the hardware will be half the cost. I am concerned about the cost of labor.

When I look at the overall project, my brain says "I can do that." Can I really? What haven't I considered? In the end would I be better off just hiring a plumbing contractor and biting the bullet?

Bonus points for links to inexpensive beautiful, practical bathroom fixtures.

insulating a room

dearleader — Tue, 12 Feb 2008 11:05:20 -0800

RenovationFilter: I live in the top floor of a historic building. I have a small section on the sloped ceiling where the original planks are visible. One problem is that there are spaces between the planks, an inch or into the spaces is the actual roofing material. As you can imagine this is hardly energy efficient. I'd like to "plug" up the gaps but leaving the sections of planking exposed for aesthetics. Does anyone know how I could do this? I'm imagining there's some kind of black spray foam insulation I could spray in there that would expand to fill it, and not be too visible, but I'm not sure if there is, or if this works. Any recommendations for tips or specific products is highly appreciated.

Looking for remodeling picture series

(bb|[^b]{2}) — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 19:59:10 -0800

I'm looking for remodeling picture sets (like this) for renovation inspiration. They don't have to be on Flickr, but a sequential, step-by-step series would be nice. Is there a site that specializes in these types of DIY remodel picture sets?

What does it take to get a 'rehab' mortgage to purchase a building?

geos — Sat, 08 Dec 2007 07:44:09 -0800

What does it take to get a 'rehab' mortgage to purchase a building? I am looking into buying a rental property that was being renovated but went into foreclosure before the renovations were finished. Assuming that for $X amount of loan, the rent would cover the mortgage and maintenance: what would a bank want in order to obtain a loan to rehab and purchase the property? Down-payment? Business plan? Income?

She who must be obeyed wants a new kitchen

Mutant — Wed, 05 Dec 2007 04:35:01 -0800

Shortly after marrying Mrs Mutant I learned I needed a new kitchen. After precisely NO debate on this topic we're starting the kitchen work Sunday. I have some questions. Since we're not sure if we're going to staying London much past a year (proposed changes in UK tax laws regarding "non domiciled ex-pats", previously discussed here and here) or continue to live in this flat for longer than a year even if we do stay (it's getting upscale in The Ghetto and we've got great hopes for the UK property collapse), we're low ending the renovation.

We purchased an appropriate kitchen set at IKEA, received the flat pack about a week ago, and I've assembled all nine cabinets. We're fortunate enough to have a very spacious flat, so everything is actually setup and ready to go. We've got professional installers coming, but would to get this done and dusted as rapidly as possible, so we need to make sure we've setup everything in the best possible manner. And we'd like to make sure we don't repeat anyone else's mistakes.

We've scheduled the work in two phases as follows :

First, removal of existing cabinets, relocation of appliances (cooker, fridge & washing machine) and removal of existing vinyl flooring.

[ two day break to allow me to paint entire kitchen, perform remedial work on electrical outlets, get slow drains cleared down ]

Second, lying down new vinyl floor after, perhaps, re-leveling. Installation of ducting necessary for dryer (not installed presently). Installation of new cabinets, leveling, grouting around edges, installation of skirting covering feet (plinths) and gap from cabinet base to floor), verification that door / drawers function properly. Reinstallation and connection of appliances.

As background, this is a two bedroom flat, consisting of two floors with a garden. About 37 years old, its located in Zone 2, Central London, walking distance to either of London's financial districts; Whitechapel, specifically.

I purchased it as a "fixer upper" in 2001. The elderly English woman who lived (and died here, We've got a Ghost in our lounge!!) didn't do any maintenance and was a hoarder, thus allowing me to negotiate a sharp discount to market price at the time. It took me two months to clear out the place and render it (minimally) suitable for living with most of my effort focused on the lounge where her body was discovered. I gutted and renovated the lounge, redoing the electrical outlets, installing a wooden laminate floor and painting. So given the age and lack of maintenance over the years, we definitely need a new kitchen (and I've been informed a new bathroom as well) but plumbing is totally out of my skill range, and as we need this work done before Christmas learning "on the job" isn't an option.

Re-leveling is something the contractor is pushing. While it doesn't cost much (perhaps £100), is this really necessary? My understanding is if we don't re-level and if there are significant differences in floor height, the new vinyl may tear under pressure. But what deviance in height is of concern?

Floor preparation - when I renovated the lounge after removing the rugs and underliner I used a floor sealant before laying the laminate; what is typically done for vinyl?

We've assembled the IKEA with the feet, but without hinges installed. Does this make sense or should we totally assemble the units? Doesn't seem like attaching the doors, for example, will make the actual cabinet installation any easier, but maybe this is the norm?

Countertops - all the work surfaces we've purchased, when placed on the cabinets have about 1" of overhang at the front. The current (30+ year old) countertops are flush with the existing (ancient and abused) cabinets. Neither of us have seen such pronounced overhang, although it doesn't bother us. Would you advise cutting to fit flush or leaving about 1" of overhang?

Once the countertops have been cut to fit lengthwise, what type of glue do we use to attach the strips intended to cover the cuts/ends? Will ordinary superglue be acceptable?

Dryer duct; we don't currently have a dryer but wanted this installed in case we (or tenants we ultimately rent this to) need one. Given that we'll have a nice hole in the wall with a hose leading into the kitchen but behind our cabinets, how is this typically sealed off? Vermin including rats have been spotted in our garden from time to time. I was thinking of having it sealed at both ends, outside and inside, but what is used?

Slow drains - I'm planning on renting a drill snake to clear these out but haven't worked with one before. My understanding is we're talking simply about what amounts of a longish piece of wire which, mounted on a drill, is pushed down the drain while rotating. I've seen different lengths - should I just grab the longest or is it possible I'll damage something (perhaps horrifyingly expensive to fix) down there using this? Will a drill suffice to clear out 30+ years of kitchen waste, or are chemicals needed as well? If so, what would be advisable to use? I need to take advantage of this opportunity while the drains are completely accessible.

Appliance relocation - I realise new refrigerators need to sit "in place" after being unboxed for at least 24 hours before being plugged in. Our is in use and loaded with food. Can we simply unplug, move to the lounge, and replug? Or must it sit for 24 hours as well? Same question applies to reinstallation once the kitchen work is done.

Cooker - our contractor provides a CORGI registered service for disconnecting & reconecting the cooker. How do we sign off on this work? I guess if we don't smell gas it's a start, but any tips?

Structural integrity - We have some concerns here as I can climb up on the work surfaces of our existing kitchen cabinets if necessary, but the IKEA cabinets sitting in our lounge is damn wobbly. I realise the units are bolted together and then to the wall during installation, but is there any other steps that we might be missing? Do all cabinets start out this wobbly?

Any other tips on signing off & accepting the work? We're just thinking along the lines of run the faucets and work the drawers / doors (which should close on their own with a satisfying "thud"), but what else do you recommend we look at? This is especially important as I negotiated a cash price with a staggered payment schedule (40% to start phase one, 40% to start phase two, and 20% at the end) and once these guys are physically out of the flat we'll have little recourse.

Please add any tips or problems you might have encountered that we should be aware of.

Many thanks for your help!