Ask MetaFilter questions tagged with remodel

Kitchen remodel help needed

modernist1 — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 13:52:15 -0800

I am doing a kitchen remodel and need to pick out cabinet hardware. I have looked at pulls from Ikea that cost $10/pair and look identical to ones from higher-end manufacturers that sell for $20-$40 each. That is a huge difference in price. I am wondering, could anyone tell me if it is worth the difference? What is the reason for the huge price difference? Do the ones from Ikea look terrble after a few years? I am spending a lot of money on this kitchen remodel and don't want to skimp on this if it makes a difference -- but I also don't want to throw away hundreds of dollars on hardware if the pulls from Ikea will be just as good.

Contractor in Madison, WI

echo target — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 10:56:05 -0800

Looking for a contractor in Madison, WI to get an estimate on a kitchen remodel. I'm looking at an older house in Madison that's very nice but for a small kitchen. I'd like to get a ballpark figure on how much it would be to knock out a wall, build a breakfast bar, and move the sink.

This would be our first house, and I'm not sure where to begin. I'm hoping that the contractor can walk through with us and give us a figure that we can use to see if we can afford the place.

Can you recommend any particular contractors to hire, or to avoid?

Converting a smaller garage- how much and is it worth it

aussicht — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 09:30:18 -0800

How much would it cost to convert a garage into an efficiency and how much could I do with a small garage? I am buying a house with a small detached garage in the back yard. I'd like to turn it into a small efficiency/inlaw quarters. The garage is about 20' x 14'. I live in Miami. Some tell me that it is pretty easy to do and not to worry about permits. I am curious what the whole permitting would cost, rough estimates of the conversion itself, and if it would raise taxes/insurance on the property? I'm not talking real estimates, just like 10k-20k, 40k, etc. What happens if you have unpermitted remodeling, and then try to get it permitted? Is it possible? What does that do to the value of the house in a sale? I'd honestly like to go the permitted route if possible, I am just weighing it all out.

There's electricity already, it just needs plumbing for the kitchen, appliances, and a bathroom. It's concrete flooring with garage doors that swing outwards (french doors?), no insulation, no a/c.

Would an efficiency realistically fit in the space? I'm bad visually/spatially. Could you put a small kitchen, small bath or 1/2 bath, and open living area in?

How do I best make an outlet in my baseboards?

notsnot — Sun, 06 Sep 2009 06:58:36 -0800

How do I make an outlet in my baseboards? I'm re-wiring the bedroom due to an untraceable short circuit (yay...came home from vacation to no power in the bedroom) and have decided that installing outlets in the baseboards is the best way to go. But, um, the outside wall is brick... The house is typical, all-brick construction from 1931. There are no outlets on either of the two exterior walls. I would like there to be. (actually, when I bought the place, there was a metal box with an outlet nailed to the floor. However, surface-mount boxes are deeper than my baseboards. I *think* the best option is to just mark the box location, then plunge the trusty roto-zip into the baseboard, plaster, and brick behind. I'd like to avoid pulling the baseboards again.

Bonus: the boxes have inlet tabs on each of the short sides (the ends). But mounting them horizontally would have the outlet be on the side, not facing down, which would be better for connecting to the wiring in the basement. Do I just wallow out a bigger hole in the baseboard and run the wire so it makes a right turn (downward) once it's out of the box?

Is it safe for my pregnant wife to be around polyurethane fumes?

bingwah — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 10:09:49 -0800

I want to have 2 bedroom hardwood floors refinished. My wife is about 14 weeks pregnant. Is it safe for her to be in the house with the polyurethane fumes from the floor finish? I have a raised ranch house. The 2 bedrooms being refinished are on the upper level. We have another bedroom on the lower level on the opposite side of the house where we can sleep.

I know polyurethane and pregnancy do not mix but I figured she can mostly avoid the fumes by staying on the lower level as much as possible. The kitchen is on the upper level so there would be times when she's exposed to the fumes.

Are the fumes very dangerous? As an aside does anyone have experience with water-based finishes for floors?

Will remodeling or reducing the price move a condo quicker

willnot — Wed, 10 Jun 2009 09:22:48 -0800

I'm thinking about selling (or renting) my condo. My kitchen and bathrooms are out of date with formica counter tops, old looking appliances and ugly flooring. I know that other condos in my complex that are on the market have been updated with more contemporary looks, but they also look like they've been on the market for a while. What would cause the place to sell faster? Spending the money to update it or reducing the asking price by whatever amount I'd put into a remodel?

Bathroom Vanity shopping

beccaj — Thu, 04 Jun 2009 16:30:46 -0800

I want to buy a bathroom vanity on line ASAP- good quality but a good value. Anyone have a place they have had luck with and can recommend??

I want to make it warmer, but how?

buttercup — Sun, 17 May 2009 07:03:38 -0800

I'm in the midst of a bathroom remodel and about to insulate and close up the walls. I'm a little confused on the best way to insulate the exterior walls of my 80-year old house. A diagram of the existing wall can be seen here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ctracey/3538183459/ I've checked a lot of online resources and books, but few of them deal with a wall construction such as this. From the outside, there is: a layer of brick, a 1/2" gap, a layer of tar paper placed over, some 1x10 pine boards, and finally 2x4"(ish) studs. I am using hardibacker as the wall material (tile and plaster on top) and denim insulation. Everything I have read says to put a layer of tarpaper or other moisture barrier behind the hardibacker, but that may only apply to tub installations where water may seep through. The tub is all on inside walls.

So, I guess the question is whether or not I should place the hardibacker on top of another layer of tarpaper or not? If I did, would that create a trapped layer of moisture in the walls.

Help me be an informed remodeler.

medusa — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 18:59:56 -0800

Please recommend resources for learning about home remodeling, particularly basement finishing. I am starting the process of getting the basement of my house finished. (Note that I will not do most of the work myself; I'm planning to hire a contractor.) I would like recommendations for books, websites, or other resources to learn about the remodeling process, what questions to consider, common problems and how to avoid them, what to watch out for, etc.

So far I have read information at www.buildingscience.com, which I think is great. It has specific recommendations about basement finishing that I found helpful.

Other building science resources would be helpful, but I also want to learn about design and planning, budgeting, finding a contractor, negotiating with the contractor, dealing with construction, and anything else I should know but haven't thought of yet.

Architect for SF Renovation

squishy — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 23:08:23 -0800

Looking for architects and other resources for home renovation project in San Francisco. Modern, green, yada yada. I'm starting my first home project - probably a 3-story renovation of our single-family Victorian. We have lots of ideas but not a lot of direction so far, and want to start talking to people who can help guide us and ask and answer questions.

We definitely need someone who's done work in San Francisco before, and are very interested in a modern aesthetic and green building, though we're not sure how much of that is materials and how much is design.

Resources? Hook me up with architects, builders, books, blogs, or general advice. Anything that helped you with your project.

Where can I find 3/4" bead board for a ceiling in Minnesota for $1.50/sq.ft.?

Mesach — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 21:59:12 -0800

I'm finishing my house and want to install 3/4" bead board ceiling and in all the places that I look for install help and instruction(this old house, hgtv.com, oldhouseweb.com, etc) people are quoting $1-1.50/sq. foot. Does anyone know where in MN I can find quality 3/4" bead board ceiling for that price, everything i'm finding is $3-4 from specialty mills, and the stuff priced around $1/sq at the big box stores(Home Depot, Lowes and Menards) is for the thinner wall stuff, and is usually VERY poor quality with lots of knots. I just watched this video at HGTV and they put up some pretty nice looking stuff and quoted $1.50/sq I don't believe it one bit...

Backerboard or Mold Resistant Drywall

chndrcks — Wed, 08 Apr 2009 18:34:05 -0800

Bathroom DIY Filter: Do we need to use cement board (backer board) for the walls around the bathtub/shower that we're going to retile? Right now the tile is attached directly to the dry wall. We were planning on replacing most of that drywall with the mold resistant dry wall (I think that's called green board), but Home Depot and Lowes keep pushing the cement board for the part that we're going to tile (around the tub/shower).

Is it ok to use that drywall instead of the cement board (backer board)? If we use it, should we put RedGard on it (it's supposed to make it waterproof)?

Is it worth the trouble to vent our range hood outside?

odinsdream — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 07:55:50 -0800

Is it worth the trouble to vent our range hood outside? We are replacing our old range hood with an above-range convection microwave which can either vent outside or back into the room. Is there a good reason I should go to the trouble to vent it outside?

There is a pathway above the cabinets and it's a short distance to an outside wall, which I'd have to cut a hole in from the outside. I cannot easily reach the exterior wall from inside. I'd have to do most of the cutting work from the outside and fish the vent pipe over to the hole.

What benefits would I gain from venting outside?

Recess mount a thermostat

bloggerwench — Tue, 03 Mar 2009 21:12:14 -0800

Installing a thermostat other than surface mount So my BF is remodelling his living room. That means the drywall where the thermostat used to live is now helping to clog a local landfill and the thermostat is hanging forlornly from some masking tape attached to a stud. This, he assures me, is not the permanent aesthetic.
He would like to mount the thermostat in a recessed box of some kind - not unlike the recessed wall boxes that water supply sillcocks for washers are mounted in when hoity toity uppity McMansions are built.

He's searched teh intertubes and found naught. Is there a pre-fab box which is code approved to receive live lines (thermostat signal is not, he assures me within what UL calls low voltage) and is sized to hold a standard surface mount thermostat?

He's willing to just build a box into the framing but remodel fatigue has set in and I'm tired of mending his rended clothing from his anguish so any help is appreciated.

Help me not screw up a remodel

Scientifik — Fri, 06 Feb 2009 11:19:36 -0800

I'm finished with California and have decided to move to Denver. I single, self-employed, work from home, late 20's and looking to buy a house to turn it into my castle. My plan is to move somewhere in downtown or near the city center (Jefferson Park, Capitol Hill, Highland, etc..) buy a smaller house and remodel it, most of the housing there is older so I figure I could drop 30 - 50k in renovations and turn it into a very nice place while keeping its traditional charm.

The point is to end up with a place that is uniquely mine that I can just hang on to indefinitely. My total project budget is 200k, part of me is nervous about undertaking a project like this but I think its a solid challenge. Is there anything I'm forgetting or should be aware of?

Non-traditional building supply sources?

odinsdream — Fri, 30 Jan 2009 08:20:49 -0800

I'm planning a home addition but would like peruse building material sources beyond what's available in consumer hardware stores. What sources do architects and contractors use for non-standard windows and other items? Is there a McMaster-Carr-equivalent for building materials? I'm in the early design stages of a home addition and am trying to figure out windows, in particular. Pictures 4 and 5 on this page show what I'm looking for.

Would a large array of windows like that be a completely custom thing? I.e., I'd need to contact a glass and metal shop and get it totally made from scratch?

In general, who are the vendors for not-exactly-standard building components like this, and where are they listed? Perhaps sources traditionally for commercial applications that I could rework into a residential environment?

alternatives to a ikea washbasin?

buttercup — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 16:40:05 -0800

Any similar sinks out there to the Ikea HÖLLVIKEN bathroom sink? I like the size and shape of this basin, but want to get some other options. Also, if anyone knows anything about the quality of this sink, those comments would also be appreciated.

basement insulation

docpops — Wed, 12 Nov 2008 19:11:46 -0800

Need opinions on insulating a basement... I'm finishing my basement. About 2/3 of the walls are below grade, framed with 2x6 lumber set an inch from the wall. I've read competing opinions on optimal insulation strategies, with the primary concern being moisture. A contractor friend has basically stated he would never put batt/fiberglass insulation in a space like this (even with moisture barrier) that might get condensation and is recommending foam board.

I'm OK with foam board, but not sure how the hell to put it in so it's nice and airtight, imagining tons of minor air gaps where I didn't slice the panels correctly, and not sure I'll get much of an R value unless I lay the panels in 4 inches deep or more, so I need to double or triple lay them, I guess.

Another option we are investigating is sprayed foam, so anyone with firsthand knowledge of this techniques, please spill it.

240V to 120 conversion(s)

docpops — Sun, 26 Oct 2008 07:55:18 -0800

I need to convert a double 30 amp breaker that feeds a 240V dryer outlet into a subpanel for several 120 lines... I'm finishing my basement. The original plan allowed for a washer /dryer down there, long since relocated upstairs, so I have an unused dedicated 20amp circuit (washing machine) and an unused double 30 amp circuit for the dryer. There are a couple other 15 amp circuits that feed stuff down there that are pretty much accounted for.

My hope, and I will be utilizing the services of an electrician (but would like to be prepared for the conversation I'm going to have as much as possible), is that I can turn the dryer outlet into some combination of circuits, i.e. a subpanel, that would give me at least 2 extra 20 amp, or 2 extra 30 amp, circuits down there for 120V wiring which I could then use to feed the bed, bath and whatever other stuff I need (like a small 120V space heater).

I ran 2 courses of 12G romex yesterday from just at the 240V box into the eventual bathroom and bedroom. Tell me if I've just wasted a ton of time and money.

Thanks.

I am thinking about knocking down the wall between my kitchen and dining room.

hazyspring — Fri, 03 Oct 2008 08:44:03 -0800

I am considering knocking down the wall between my kitchen and my dining room. Multiple questions inside. My house is pretty small, about 1250 square feet. I wish my kitchen was just a little bit larger, and also that I had just slightly more counter space. There is also a section of the kitchen that I feel the space could be used more efficiently (i.e. there is no counter there where there could be).

So, I am considering knocking down the wall between my kitchen and my dining room, and expanding the kitchen slightly. I already know that I want new counters, and the cabinets will either need to be painted white, or need new faces, but I am not interested in spending money on new cabinets. I don't think I will have to move plumbing.

Will knocking down the wall and essentially merging the rooms (there will be an island in between) hurt the resale value of my home?

What are some other things I need to think about when doing this?

Who do I hire, a general contractor? a carpenter?

Who do I talk to if I want someone to help me design a really efficient kitchen space?

mold in basement remodel -- what now?

Mon, 08 Sep 2008 20:36:17 -0800

I've put an offer on a 1924 house that has a refinished basement. The remodel was done by the homeowners, with no permits. My inspector found some mold on some wood and drywall. What now? This house is in Portland, Oregon where it rains non-stop during the winter. Most basements here have some water seepage. The current owners refinished the basement themselves either in 2005 or 2006 (I'll get confirmation of this), so it's been through at least one winter here, but not lots of them.
There was an area by a door jamb, where my inspector could look in and see the non-pressure-treated wood (which is apparently a no-no itself) and drywall had some mold on it from water.
So, what do we do now? We will obviously let the current homeowners know about this. My realtor thinks they should just get the work permitted. My concerns are:
- If there's already visible mold, what is behind the walls that we can't see/can't get to? Will we just need to rip all of this remodel down in 5-10 years because it'll be rotted away or totally mold-infested?
- My partner says he's allergic to some kinds of mold, but we don't know if it's this kind. I know mold is supposed to be "BAD BAD BAD!" but really, how bad? Don't most old houses have some kind of mold, somewhere?
- If we ask the homeowners to permit the basement and the county says it's not to code, then what?

Are we getting in over our heads on this? Is it a long-term problem with no real solution?

Does my tile limit my paint options?

kristymcj — Thu, 04 Sep 2008 13:27:56 -0800

Can I use this tile with a variety of colors, or am I limited to neutral tans? I'm tiling my entire house in this tile. The guy at the paint store said that I'm really limited is what colors I can use (basically tans), but I see the tile as a neutral. That said - I held the tile up to a bright yellow and it was awful! I don't know what it was -- but it was bad. I'm hoping he's wrong. What am I missing here? Here are some colors I'm interested in using: Daffodil, Celestial Blue, and a light rain color .

Urban strip tease

littlerobothead — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 10:12:44 -0800

HomeImprovementFilter: Looking for the most pet and human friendly way to strip paint off of various surfaces in our home, one of which is a pine banister that's over 100 years old. Does anyone have any experience with soy-based strippers like this one, which still "contains a chemical known to the state of California to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm". Yikes! Anything a little less death-dealing, or should I not be too alarmed about what California says? What are your favorite methods for getting rid of a hundred years of lead and latex paint in a weekend, and where can I buy them?

Glass Doorknob

jschu — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 16:13:09 -0800

Where can we buy round glass doorknobs? My mom is redoing her bathroom and has her heart set on round glass doorknobs. We're looking for something to match these drawer pulls that we bought at Restoration Hardware.

We've only had a little luck on UK websites-- they're too expensive or don't ship overseas. Can anyone point us to somewhere that sells these elusive things and can ship them to us? We're near Houston, Texas.

Our criteria are: silver-colored metal parts, no bubbles in the glass, and ball-shaped, round, not faceted knobs.

Thanks!

Contractor damaged our hardwood floors - now what?

NailsTheCat — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 15:25:08 -0800

We're in the middle of having a new kitchen installed. As part of the remodel we knocked down a couple of walls. The house has hardwood floors throughout yet the contractor did not put anything down to protect the floor(!!) when they did the demolition. No surprise then that there are scratches and a couple of gouges on the floor. We're not happy. How to approach this? What rights do we have? When we first raised the issue with him he said they were planning to "buff and varnish" and this would take care of all the scratches and he apologized for the gouges. He also mumbled something about possibly resanding / finishing that level of the house and that he would split the cost.

His floor guy just came round, took one look at the scratches and said that buffing wouldn't fix them -- let alone the gouges. The kitchen floor wasn't fantastic before but it didn't need all these extra scratches. The other damaged room was fine before.

So it seems our only option to recover the floors is to sand and refinish this level of the house. It's 800 sq ft, which at $2 for just two coats, is a cost I could do without. Should we contest that he should foot the entire bill? Or, if we decided to live with the damage, should we be asking for compensation? He's bonded by the way.

We went with the cheapest contractor so perhaps it serves me right -- someone else is doing the cabinet installation. I don't particularly want the guy to take a loss (we're paying around $9,500k) or not make any money but nor do I want to be a chump because of his incompetence. (I mentioned the lack of protection on day 1 and they didn't remedy it for the second day of demo either.)

(Old oak floor. Been refinished at least once before. Denver.)

I thank you all.