Ask MetaFilter questions tagged with mechanic

Just blowing hot air?

Static Vagabond — Thu, 17 Dec 2009 19:56:26 -0800

Does this manifold on a 2.5L Jeep really expel hot air into the main engine compartment or is a part missing? If you look at the picture, the side facing away from the screen joins onto the engine. The output on the bottom right presumably joins onto the exhaust pipe/system, but what about the output middle-left, pointing out to your screen?

Background: I'm borrowing a Jeep at the moment, and it makes one hell of a racket-- I heard it had some work done on the manifold recently, so I had a quick peek to see if there was anything immediately loose/etc. I noticed that there's an outlet from the manifold that goes no-where, just expels air into the engine compartment-- this (as a total non-mechanic) strikes me as weird.

Has a part fallen off, or was forgotten to be placed on, or is it working as designed and the noise is born from something else wrong with the new manifold?

Would you like to play internet mechanic? Bonus points if you can recommend a mechanic or Hyundai dealer in Chicago.

nooneyouknow — Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:09:21 -0800

Would you like to play internet mechanic? My car is having problems, one involving the brakes and two mystery problems. Bonus points if you can recommend a mechanic or Hyundai dealer in Chicago. My car is a 2004 Hyundai Elantra Sedan. FYI, I have 17,000 miles on the car. I don't know if this is important, but I read somewhere that not driving your car a ton was a bad thing.

Brakes - The amount of pressure I have to apply to the brake pedal varies a lot. Sometimes I only have to press the brake pedal down a little, sometimes I have to press it all the way to the floor, sometimes it's anywhere in between those extremes. This first started happening some months ago. I thought it was because of wear on the front pads so while I was at the dealer for a different issue I had them look at the brakes. They said the front brakes were fine but the rear brakes needed to be adjusted. After that, it was okay for a while, but the amount of pressure needed started varying again. So, I took it back to the dealer and said "My rear brakes need to be adjusted". They acted like I was speaking Greek. They looked at my brakes and said the rear brakes were at like 50% but didn't say anything about adjustment and offered to do some work on my front brakes for $250.00. That seemed quite expensive so I declined and took it to Meineke. The mechanic at Meineke said my front brakes were fine and that my rear brakes needed to be adjusted. So they worked on them and the brakes worked okay for a bit but now they are acting up again.

So, what does it mean that the rear brakes needed to be adjusted? Why doesn't adjusting them keeping the problem from reoccurring? Am I looking at having to get new rear brakes? Any idea how much that would cost?

Mystery 1 - In October, I took the car on the expressway for the first time in some months, and once I hit about 60 mphs it started shaking like it stole something. I don't know if the whole car was vibrating but it felt like it. The steering wheel was shaking so much that my entire forearms were vibrating. Any clue what this could be about?

Mystery 2 - When I turn the steering wheel to the left, there is this noise, it kinda sounds like metal on metal. But, it's not constant, it's noise-silence-noise-silence, like a record skipping. Sometimes its loud, sometimes it's quite soft. This only happens when the car is in motion and it never happens when I turn the steering wheel to the right. Any clue what this could be about?

I used to take it to the dealer where I bought it for service (which only involved getting it inspected every year and routine maintenance, I haven't had any problems with this car prior to the ones listed above), but I'm reluctant to take it back there since they acted like they had no idea of what readjusting the brakes meant when they had done it previously and suggested brake work that it seems I didn't need. So I would appreciate any recommendations for a decent mechanic or Hyundai dealer in the Chicago area.

Mechanic filter: Car alarm going nuts, how do I find out how to disable the alarm system temporarily so that I can drive the car to the mechanic?

BasileusPY — Tue, 01 Dec 2009 16:14:04 -0800

Mechanic filter: Car alarm going nuts, how do I find out how to disable the alarm system temporarily so that I can drive the car to the mechanic? I have a 1998 Toyota T100 2WD and the previous owner put in a security system. Don't know if it was factory installed or an aftermarket.

When I was out of the country for awhile, I let my mother use the truck and she told me that one night the alarm went off when the truck was inside the garage (nothing fell on it, no animals/people involved) and that the remote would not turn it off. She ended up disconnecting the battery. We have a back-up remote, so my mom took apart the one she was using, thinking that that might have been the problem, and started to use the other remote. Problems stopped.

But now the same thing happened to me with this other remote. Cannot even start the truck since when the key goes in the ignition, security system locks up the car and prevents starting along with going nuts and scaring women and children. Had to disconnect the battery again.

SOO... I want to be able to disable the alarm so that I can at least drive to the mechanic instead of getting it towed. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Automechanicfilter: The Case of the Thirsty Tank

desuetude — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 20:47:45 -0800

What could be some reasons why my gas mileage is very suddenly and dramatically craptastic? The decrease in fuel efficiency happened directly after I got stuck driving my car on a flooded road through deeper water than it should've been asked to handle. The car didn't stall, but it felt very close to stalling, and the steering was "stiff" for a few minutes. However, the functioning of the car returned quickly to totally normal. Except that my gas mileage is reduced by nearly half.

It's not running particularly rough or loud, using more oil than usual, running hotter than usual, or anything else that would signal an obvious "car is working too hard" issue.

The gas tank has been run down nearly to empty and filled, fuel injector cleaner has been used once. It's been a couple of months, so it's not resolving itself, that's for sure. And no, nothing's leaking when it sits.

It's a 1996 meticulously-maintained Neon. So yes, it's getting up in years, and I know that some cars lose fuel efficiency as they age, but this was a VERY dramatic change.

Seeking clicking mechanism or design...

pallen123 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:21:02 -0800

What kind of small toys or devices click when you rotate them forwards and backwards? Seeking mechanism or design... I’m trying to help a friend design a small toy and she needs a mechanism that will click in very small increments as she rotates a small (1 inch diameter) dial that turns 360 degrees on its axis. She needs the dial to click precisely as it turns clockwise and counterclockwise in smallish increments. I was thinking a fishing reel mechanism might work, but that just allows turning in one direction. Then I thought a ratchet wrench mechanism might work, but that also turns in just one direction (and I’m not sure how the inside of a ratchet wrench works either). Can anyone think of existing toys or devices that have a clicking mechanism that freely rotate? Novel solutions? Suggestions? Thank you!

Overflowing Carbs

dsword — Sun, 20 Sep 2009 12:13:33 -0800

Help me diagnose a motorcycle carburetor problem. Recently, my motorcycle suddenly lost power. It still runs, but apparently only on one cylinder.

On the bad cylinder side, gas drips out of the exhaust pipe (where the pipe from the engine meets the chrome). The rate increases with the throttle. Evidently, liquid gas is being pumped into the engine.

I checked the fuel level on the carburetors using a clear plastic tube, and sure enough found that the bad side was way too high, while the good side was just right. "Aha!" I said, "The float or needle valve is bad."

However, the floats are fine (they float, no bent parts, etc...) and replacing the valves did not solve the problem. In fact there wasn't any visible wear, varnish, or anything else that seemed to be wrong with the old valves or any other part of the carburetor for that matter. (I didn't disassemble past the fuel reservoir). The carbs looked squeaky clean, in fact. The fuel filter is clean as a whistle, too.

Yet fuel still drips from the exhaust. Performance is still poor. The fuel level in the carbs is still significantly above the top of the reservoir.

What could it be? How are the carbs filling past the point where the float should shut the valve?

How much work is a used Toyota truck?

Chrishartley — Sun, 23 Aug 2009 20:56:00 -0800

Never owned an old car, thinking of buying a 1988 Toyota 4x4 truck. Stupid? Some background:
My partner wants us to buy a pickup and spend a few months/years driving around the country visiting friends and camping. This question is about the pickup part, there may be another question about the larger proposal.

I consider myself mechanically included. I'm a very adept bicycle mechanic and I can get an old lawn mower running without a whole lot of fuss -- BUT with the exception of a one year period I've lived without a car for most of the last decade.

When I had a car it was a newish used Toyota Echo. I changed the oil and fan belts myself but I don't know a whole lot about car mechanics. I've never owned a car more than a few years old. Am I setting myself up for failure if I buy a 20+ year old Toyota 4x4 pickup for $2,000, put a camper shell on top and spend a few months driving around the country?

What is owning an old vehicle like? By most accounts old Toyota trucks are quite reliable and the 22re engine seems to last forever. Does that mean that they don't break as often as say, a 1980s Ford but still break/need tweaking a lot more frequently than a 4 year old car? Is every mile the answer to a small prayer?

Assuming I find a truck that is in average or above average condition (little rust), what can I expect? Will something need tweaking every few hundred miles and something else need replacing every few thousand? Will I spend a lot of time worrying about what will go wrong next and a lot of money fixing it when it does? Am I more likely than not going to end up stranded on the side of the road, hitchhiking several hundred miles in search of some obscure part only available at a premium price from Japan?

What about safety features? Obviously there won't be airbags or ESC, but what about crumple zones and the more basic things that save lives?

How do emissions compare to a more modern vehicle? Obviously much worse, but are there hard numbers to compare?

It just doesn't seem like these trucks would cost as little as they do if the reliability with regular maintenance was as good as a three year old car or truck -- things just don't work that way. Right?

I know having a lot of questions doesn't make for a good AskMefi post so I'll summarize my two key questions:

If I buy a 20 year old Toyota 4x4 in average or above average condition (150-200k miles), how much extra worry, cost and pain will there be in driving it a substantial distance versus a 2-4 year old truck?

Am I going to be able to do a lot/all of the maintenance and repair myself, as a mechanically inclined car/truck newbie?

To tell the truth the most interesting part of this proposal is getting to learn car mechanics but I don't want to set myself up for failure and/or getting eaten by rabid vultures somewhere in the Canadian wilderness.

Need mechanic in Tempe.

reductiondesign — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 19:10:36 -0800

Please recommend a good auto mechanic in Tempe, AZ for a 2001 Ford Escape.

A good mechanic in Gurnee?

bobbyno — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 11:41:44 -0800

Anyone know a good mechanic in or around Gurnee Illinois for a used car pre-sale checkup? We're considering buying a used Honda in Gurnee, IL. We want to get it checked out, but we're from much farther south. I've checked Yelp, etc., but I was hoping for a more personal recommendation here from folks who know of good mechanics or auto shops in Gurnee, Libertyville or Waukegan. If you've done a similar thing (getting a car checked out prior to buying it), that would be great.

Thank you very much!

2001 Corolla, Fog Lights Always On

churl — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 21:53:36 -0800

My 2001 Toyota Corolla has spontaneously developed a problem: the front and rear fog lights never turn off, even when the key is out of the ignition. A good mechanic was recommended to me, but he won't be able to see me for several weeks. He warned me to expect to spend $200 minimum. Is there anything I can do in the meantime to try to solve this myself? This is, naturally, a totally awful time for this to happen. This all began yesterday, with no precipitating incident.

My car simultaneously began exhibiting the following symptoms, which I'd never seen before:

1) Although my car normally has daytime running lights, my headlights stopped turning on automatically, both day and night. They do turn on normally when I engage them manually. My high beams also engage and disengage normally.
2) While the car is on, while the lights are off, the high beam indicator on my dashboard is blinking constantly, at roughly one second intervals.
3) When the door is open, the car's warning sound / idiot noise is emitted constantly (as if I'd left the lights manually turned on or the key in the ignition, but neither is the case)

Google gave me this, but in my case pulling the high beam switch does not temporarily solve the problem. I don't have a security system or anything unusual installed. I've tried pulling each of the smaller fuses in each of the obvious fuseboxes under the hood, and none extinguished the lights.

When making the appointment with the mechanic, I asked if there were a way to keep this from running down my battery. He said I could disconnect the battery lead while the car was off, but warned this would "wreak havoc" with my car's onboard computer.

The guy at the shop also told me to be prepared to spend at least $200 to resolve this. What little I can glean from Google seems to imply as high as $750 for similar problems.

Is there anything I can do to mitigate the problem myself? The solution doesn't have to be elegant or flawless, just get the car back to a state where I can drive it at night and it doesn't murder my battery. Any, any insight is appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Need a decision procedure for dumping the car...

paultopia — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:35:47 -0800

Decision procedure, method for getting rid of old car? Hey everyone. I have a 2000 dodge stratus with almost 150k miles on it and some dents, and the mechanic (who is honest) just told me I need new bearings, a new rim, and a bunch of new brakes and drums. I'm waiting for the estimate, but I'm thinking it might be time to get rid of the car rather than repair it. But I'm not really sure how to make this decision.

If I'm going to get rid of this car, it won't be to a junkyard -- it's not in that poor a condition -- but hopefully it'll be to some kind of easy corporate place where I can just get an estimate and sell rather than risky and time-consuming crap with craigslist and so forth. And if I get rid of it, I have no plans to replace it, at least not for about 2-3 years, possibly longer.

KBB says private party resale value for a fair condition car like this is just over 2k. Should I get rid of the car if repair cost is more than that? Or should I be willing to spend more, on the theory that the value to me of having the car is more than the market price I could get for it? Or should I be willing to spend less, on the theory that expensive repairs now don't preclude the risk of having more expensive repairs later? Help?

Part two: I was thinking of just using CarMax, because I've at least heard of them. Unfortunately, I'm in Palo Alto, and the closest CarMax is 70 miles away. Does anyone know of anything within Caltrain range of Palo Alto that's similar?

Reasonable Car Repair?

kanuck — Mon, 06 Jul 2009 16:48:43 -0800

What are reasonable expectations between car repair shops / mechanics and their customers? Specific scenario inside.. Having moved relatively recently, I'm in the process of finding a good car repair shop / mechanic. I've got an older car that needs some HVAC work, so I took it into a shop that an acquaintance recommended to me. They diagnosed it and gave me a quote: 3-4 hours labor, parts costs in the $500-1000 range (depending on whether I'd like everything under discussion replaced).

1) based on various internet parts sites, they have a 100% markup on the parts in question (I'm looking up OEM/OES parts from companies like Bosch and Bohr).
2) the shop claims that they can only get the parts from the manufacturer (which no doubt charges maximum prices).
3) they want me to pre-pay for the parts.

How reasonable is this?

I've put down a small deposit @ other shops in the past for major repairs.. but no more than a few hundred $.

I don't grudge the shop some markup on parts since they deal with the overhead of orders/returns, but charging 2x the internet retail cost?

Is it crazy to think that if I could find several reputable-looking sites that sold these parts (new, OEM brands) in about 5 minutes, that they should be able to source in a similar way?

Is it reasonable to say "I'll order the parts myself and you guys do the replacement"? Should I expect the labor charge to suddenly go up in that situation?

Since parts need to be ordered anyway, I will have to get the car back first. I expect to be charged labor for the diagnosis, is there any reason I should feel bad for taking it somewhere else to get the work done? Are these all red flags that I actually should just take the car somewhere else?

Need reliable Audi Mechanic

jeffamaphone — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 14:21:39 -0800

Bay Area: Peninsula: Please recommend an independant Audi mechanic. I have a '07 Q7 and I'm looking for an independent mechanic so I don't have to pay dealer prices for oil changes, etc. The qualities I'm looking for, in order of desirablity, are:

1) Does Quality work.
2) Is honest and reliable.
3) Good value for the money.

I.e., I'll pay slightly more for someone I can trust and rely on. I'm not purely looking to minimize cost.

Thanks!

Cheapest way for me to diagnose car troubles.

scarello — Fri, 29 May 2009 06:43:17 -0800

Engine is turning over slowly and I think it might be the battery. Affordable way to check this myself or just take it into the garage? The other day, I went to start my 2002 Toyota echo, and the engine had a really slow turn over before it finally started. I notice if I give it a bit of gas, it starts right away. No check engine or battery lights come on while driving around town. From the research I have been doing, it seems to suggest either the battery or the alternator. My wife bought the car used 3 years ago, so there is a good chance it is the original battery, so i am leaning toward a dying battery. Is there a cheap way to figure this out? I don't own a battery charger or a voltmeter, and am trying to figure out if it's cheaper to just have the dealer check it out when we bring the car in for an oil change tomorrow or pick up some items at the auto store and test it myself tonight (and get some tools in the process). Suggestions?

Sunday in Portland with dying brakes

thesmallmachine — Sun, 03 May 2009 11:00:21 -0800

Where can I get my brakes fixed on a Sunday in Portland, OR? I see prior questions on mechanics in Portland, but I'm looking specifically for people who can help me today. I drove here last night from a couple of hours away, planned to leave tonight, but don't trust the brakes (which began squealing aggressively as soon as I hit town; I think it's time for new pads) to get me safely home.

The car is a 2003 Taurus, so it's not like I need a specialty place, but even the big brake and tire chains seem to close on Sundays. Am I out of luck?

(I know that this is a potential DIY repair, but, with respect, I have to rule that out. I don't trust my diagnostic prowess nor my basic level of mechanical ability.)

I wanna be a mechanical vagrant!

TheNewWazoo — Tue, 21 Apr 2009 09:27:07 -0800

I love renting a house in urban Atlanta! I hate renting a house in urban Atlanta! Can anyone help me find a place to fix my car... myself? So as much as I love living ~150yds from a MARTA station, and as little as I drive my car in town, and as nifty as my urban garden is, my car occasionally needs repair. I'm quite handy and would love to do minor stuff myself, but my steeply-sloped driveway and busy street precludes home repair. Can anyone help me find a public or co-op garage east-side ITP where I can work for a day or two?

Finding a new car mechanic

Silentgoldfish — Thu, 26 Mar 2009 11:07:41 -0800

I'm looking for a new car mechanic in Melbourne, Australia and/or tips for finding a reliable one in general... I moved to Melbourne a little while ago and it's coming up time to service my car. Where I used to live I had an awesome mechanic who was honest, blunt, and never felt like he was ripping me off despite my ignorance of most of what makes my car go. He was the kind of guy that when someone else would try and sell me stuff I didn't need he'd tell me if I really did or whether I could get away for another few years with what I already had.

Unfortunantely, he couldn't recommend anyone in Melbourne, and while I found him through word of mouth no-one I know here can recommend anyone similiar.

Any tips or tricks for finding another guy as good (and most importantly, honest), or any direct recommendations?

Thanks in advance!

Cheap and cheerful fixes for a sideswiped car

micawber — Fri, 02 Jan 2009 09:28:41 -0800

Car filter: my car got sideswiped on New Year's Eve. Need some direction on what types of places can fix what's broken and/or suggestions on ways to do so. Despite moving the car deliberately out of what we thought was harm's way, some idiot sideswiped my car overnight on New Year's Eve.

Disclaimer: I am a car idiot. We have a good mechanic and a good exhaust person and a good body work person (it's a city car that's 10 years old) but I am never sure who to take the car to for what and taking my car to the garage always involves having to come in late/leave early from work so I'd like to know where to go instead of guessing.

1) The driver's side mirror was smashed. The mirror is gone but the casing holding the mirror is still attached, but the attachment area has broken. It is still in place on the car at the same level that it would be normally but pushed all the way back. Does this make sense? It is NOT a power mirror.

a) do I need to replace the whole thing or is it repairable?
b) what kind of place would I take this to? our mechanic or the body shop?
c) Can we source the mirror ourselves and bring it to someone to install?
d) ballpark on what this would cost? It is a 1999 Pontiac vehicle.

2) They also scraped the panel just above the rear wheel on the driver's side. The scrape is not that bad and the dent is not worth fixing. However, there is a scrape and I was always taught the issue with scrapes is that it removes paint and leaves the body susceptible to rust. I've put a lot of work into keeping my car maintained and want it to last me as long as possible.

a) is the 'susceptible to rust' thing true, and if so, how true
b) is there some way I can make the scraped areas (mostly along the rim above the wheel) less susceptible to rust, without having to pay someone to do it? It doesn't have to be pretty.
c) if not, what can i tell a body shop i want them to do and what should it cost?

Know any good mechanics?

orrnyereg — Thu, 11 Dec 2008 06:17:48 -0800

DC-area MeFites: would you recommend your auto mechanic? I need to get my Neon worked on and would like to not be ripped off. You've already helped diagnose the problem, now help me find the solution! I've had one solid recommendation for a mechanic in Annandale but that's pretty far away (I live in Glover Park). Can anyone offer suggestions for a mechanic who works on Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth closer in to DC?

A thousand grateful thanks in advance!

Heater core? What?

lunasol — Tue, 02 Dec 2008 15:53:33 -0800

The mechanic said my heater core needs to be replaced and it will cost $700. What does this mean? Lengthy explanation inside. Background: I bought my 1995 Toyota Corrolla this last summer. Got it checked out by a reputable mechanic (Mechanic A) who found no major problems.

I've only ever had one problem - one day about a month ago, I was driving it on a city street. I was stopped at a red light and when the light turned green and I pressed down on the gas, the car stalled out, luckily right next to a gas station. I was able to to steer the car into the gas station, where, after letting it sit for a minute, it started up again with no problem. I'm not sure if this is relevant to my current issue.

Once winter rolled around, I realized the heat didn't work - it would blow, but blow cold. So last Monday I took it to a mechanic recommended by a friend (Mechanic B) who changed the thermostat and cleaned out the heater core, which he said was clogged but didn't seem to think had been a big problem. After this, the heater worked perfectly.

I barely drove the car for a week after getting the heater fixed because I was home for Thanksgiving. I drove it yesterday with no problem, but today when I was driving it I noticed that a white steam had started to billow up from under the hood.

I took it to a mechanic - the steam had stopped at this point - near my house (Mechanic C) who told me that there was no antifreeze and that the heater core was ruined.

Here's where it gets a little confusing. He was not really able to explain very well what was wrong with the heater core or why it would cost $700 to replace. He says without a working heater core, the engine could overheat. He did say I should be able to drive it for a day or so without incident, so I drove it home and I'm planning to take it back to back to Mechanic A tomorrow for a second opinion.

However, before I take it to a mechanic, I'd like to have an idea of what's going on, since it sort of felt like Mechanic C was trying to scam me. I've been poking around on the internet and read these questions, but I have to say I still don't really understand what's going on here. Why would this repair cost so much? Will a failed heater core really ruin my car? If my heater core is still all clogged, why has the heat been working so well in my car? And am I safe to drive the car to the mechanic (4 miles away) tomorrow? (I drove it home with no trouble)

Thanks in advance for helping out a car-illiterate mefite!

Junk it or Fix it?

timsteil — Tue, 18 Nov 2008 17:25:12 -0800

DeadVanFilter: I know you are not my mechanic but... 97 Ford Aerostar, parked in my driveway for three Chicago years. The google-fu tells me the basics (new gas/oil etc), but I am just wondering if anyone in the hive has experience with such things. (i.e.) is this multiple hundreds I figure it's going to cost to get it running again going to turn into thousands etc. Any major structural issues I ought to be worried about after not moving for years? Only about 60K miles, no major rust/never been in a collison sort of stuff. Should I just have every damned belt etc replaced and suck it up? There are some good mechs I trust nearby, but this is the sort of thing they seem to hate taking on just for the PITA factor. Any specific Aerostar experience/blue book knowledge greatly appreciated. Thanks

Tranny problems (no, the other kind)

Nonce — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 07:57:16 -0800

Should I replace the transmission or replace the car? My 1997 Hyunday Sonata's transmission gave up the ghost. It no longer has reverse, and it only kind of shifts into second gear very hard. I took it to a local shop and to the dealer. The local shop thinks I should rebuild the transmission at $2,400. The dealer wants to put in a remanufactured transmission at about $2,700. Both of those options are insane and off the table because the car is worth less than $1,500.

Back in reality land, there are three options that I am aware of:

1) Junkyard transmission

If you think this is the way to go, how can I avoid getting ripped off? I saw this writeup when searching online, but it's almost entirely Greek to me in spite of being very clear and presumably helpful. If there is any geographically specific advice, I am in Northern Virginia, but theoretically could drive to Maryland or elsewhere in VA to pick up a part.

I don't like this because the shop will charge $450 or so to install it, and it's a gamble anyway. How can I make it less of a gamble?

2) Replace the valve body assembly

Apparently, one thing that is *for sure* wrong is that the solenoids are gone. A new valve body assembly (with new solenoids), available only from the dealer, costs about $650 and two hours of labor to swap out. Then I'm left with the same transmission I started with, which has 165,000 miles on it.

There aren't any flecks of metal in the transmission fluid. There is some sludge that the mechanic said is generally expected to build up with age, but also is not a good thing at all. Everyone says there is no way to tell how much life the transmission has left in it without taking it apart and inspecting it, at which point the labor charge becomes prohibitive.

3) Getting rid of the car

How would I do this? How much can I get for it?

Please help me figure out what to do. I hate the idea of gambling close to $1,000 on the car without a reasonable expectation of success (options 1 and 2), but I also hate the idea of selling the car for a lousy few hundred dollars because of this problem when it is otherwise functioning just fine.

Puddle-Related Power Failure?

rossination — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 20:26:59 -0800

What happened to my car? What did I do when I drove through that puddle? [1999 Ford Taurus] Today I pulled into a Safeway parking lot and my power steering and brakes failed (the dash lights and headlights dimmed as well). This went away about 15 seconds later. I stopped the car, re-started, drove around in the parking lot a bit, then left. I drove maybe another half hour tonight and the car has run fine.

After leaving the lot, it occurred to me that I drove through a 6" deep puddle on my way in. Is this what caused the temporary loss of power?

Either way, is it something I need to be concerned about?

long distance car buying -- slightly paranoid and overeager buyer

TayBridge — Sat, 04 Oct 2008 23:47:09 -0800

After months and months of looking, I've finally found my dream car. The problem is, it's a few hundred miles away from me... and my trusted mechanic. Help me make this happen! I'm in Orange County. My dream car is in San Francisco. I really don't mind having an excuse to fly up there; in fact, I'm looking forward to making a weekend of it. The prospect of finally ending my search for a new car and getting a little vacation out of it to boot is proving irresistible. However, I want to make sure that in my excitement I don't end up buying a lemon.

I've talked to the seller (a private seller, not a dealer) and received satisfying answers to all my concerns. I've checked the carfax report, and it's clean. It's been smogged and is registered until next year. If it was in Southern CA, the next step would be to have my mechanic check it out. Since it isn't, is it ridiculous to imagine I'll be able to find a trustworthy mechanic in San Francisco who'll be able to check it out on a weekend on short notice? (Unfortunately, the weekend is the only time I'd be able to get away from work.) Is it better to try to inspect it myself? I'm no expert on cars, but would it be possible to learn enough in a week to be able to determine for myself whether it's fundamentally sound? If it is, I'd appreciate any books or websites you could recommend.

To those who've bought a car long distance-- are there any particular pitfalls you can think of? Am I crazy to go to all this trouble for this car, or should I wait (probably a few months, at least) until one pops up closer to where I live? The car itself isn't rare, but the particular combination of options the SF car has is.

This is my first time buying a car without a parent's help, so I apologize for being so naive / overeager / particular / paranoid, etc. Thank you, Ask MeFi.

Know a Berkeley/Oakland mechanic who can give a car "pre-purchase inspection" tomorrow (Saturday)?

unclezeb — Fri, 12 Sep 2008 19:08:29 -0800

Bay Area Mefites, do you know of a Berkeley (or nearby) car mechanic who could inspect a used car for me tomorrow (Saturday)? I found a great deal on a 1997 Honda Accord, but before I buy it I want to have it inspected by a mechanic who can check the timing and give it a once over for problems that my untrained eye cannot catch.

I'm looking for a mobile mechanic on Craigslist now, but these seem to be fly-by-night operations and I cannot get any reviews on them. I love my mechanic (Grandma's Garage, owned by Nancy near 4th and Gilman) but she's not open weekends and I need to move on this quickly as it is something of a screaming deal (super low miles, good carfax report, all classical and talk pre-set radio stations = old lady-ish, etc).

Thanks a million for helping me out - anyone gives a helpful answer can probably get a beer out of me at Hotsy Totsy later tonight, I'll be the fat white guy with black hair by the shuffle board table.