Ask MetaFilter questions tagged with heating

Need an electric blanket

The Bishop of Turkey — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 16:08:10 -0800

Can anyone suggest a durable electric blanket? I've had a couple of electric blankets in the past and loved them... except that they only lasted a season, at best. I'd like to know if anyone could recommend a brand that would last more than a year since I know little of brands outside of Sunbeam (which is absolute crap, in my experience). I'm not too picky about the price but would like to know, for instance, if the extra I pay for a blanket from Land's End is better than the Biddeford from Dillards or the like.

Close the door, you're letting the heat out!

hollisimo — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 12:06:07 -0800

My new house came with a scary, creepy "Cozy" brand gas wall furnace. It's 15º right now. How much money am I burning by using it? This is my first house and I am new to gas heating. I moved in two weeks ago, so I'm pretty nervous about how much money I'm spending trying to keep the place habitable during this cold snap. I've tried researching operating costs for this type of furnace, but I'm not coming up with much. So I turn to you, the hivemind, for anecdotes of your own experiences with this type of furnace.

Potentially relevant house information:
- built in 1946
- 720 sq. feet, single floor, 100% crawlspace
- in Portland, OR
- insulation in the attic, not sure about exterior walls
- ancient, single pane windows

Main questions:
1. The furnace is probably 20+ years old and therefore, was not designed with efficiency in mind. Are my fears of a huge gas bill likely to pan out if I use the thing 8 to 12 hours a day?
2. Is it better to use it sparingly in favor of electric space heaters?
3. The controls are pretty basic and it's hard to keep it on a "low" setting. How can I use the thing as efficiently as possible?

When it's in use, I keep the house's two ceiling fans on the reverse setting on low and that helps move the heat down from the ceilings. I'm just terrified that I'm going to bankrupt myself by trying to keep my house warm.

Ventilation Problem

glenngulia — Mon, 30 Nov 2009 11:03:06 -0800

How do I determine why vent is not sending heat & A/C to one bedroom? Have a 3 bedroom house. 100-years old if that helps (A/C is brand new, furnace is probably 40+ years old).

2 bedrooms (the 2 larger ones) have vents that work fine. The 1 small bedroom only has 1 vent: absolutely no heat or A/C comes through this vent.

Where do I begin to figure out what the problem is?

Help me stay warm with a broken furnace.

Stewriffic — Sun, 29 Nov 2009 07:16:27 -0800

Yesterday I woke up to my furnace screeching like a banshee. Turned it off, and called for service, but they won't be able to get out for a while. I'm not sure when, because the service will be through my home warranty. I have a fireplace and wood, south facing windows that let in lots of sun, and a very small, not-so-awesome electric space heater. I have some questions about the combination of heating sources I should use until the furnace gets repaired. I live in North Carolina, US, so it's relatively mild, but it is getting down near freezing at night.

Today will be fine; it's getting up to 67ºF/19ºC this afternoon. However, here's a question about today specifically. Which will give the better bang for the buck: opening up the house, or using passive solar to warm it up without opening windows?

Secondly, the forecast for the rest of the week is going to alternate between sunny and rainy, with typical temperatures of about 54º-56ºF/12º-14ºC for the high and lows kind of all over the place, from 32ºF/0ºC to 47ºF/8ºC. See here for the full forecast.

I'm planning on closing off unused rooms, but I have a pretty large space consisting of the kitchen and two living spaces (one of which has the fireplace) that are all open to each other.

What combination of fire, space heater and sunlight will maximize heat gain and minimize heat loss for me until the furnace is repaired?

Also, any other suggestions about keeping the house warm will be gratefully accepted!

Radiator + Valve adjustment = wet carpet?

ayerarcturus — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 15:13:35 -0800

There's wet carpet around my water/steam radiators and I'm not sure why. Ok, so excuse my cluelessness here, I grew up in a house with forced-air heating and this is my first apartment with radiators. A couple of days ago the weather got nice around here, so I opened up my windows and shut off the valve of my radiators. A day or two ago I re-opened the valve on one of the radiators and didn't notice any moistness, but I really wasn't paying attention. Today, I recovered my bookbag from the ground next to the radiator and discovered that it was soaked. In fact, the entire carpet is soaked within about a foot radius of the control valve. So, I guess I'm wondering:

What would cause a massive leak like that? The ceiling above isn't wet, and it's on the side of a house where I imagine there wouldn't be any plumbing, although I could be wrong. Was it something I did with closing the valve and reopening it, or do leaks like this just happen? Mostly curious to know if my landlord is going to be angry at me (he never mentioned anything at all about the valves).

How can I tell if I have a hot water or steam radiator? I'm guessing hot water, but I'm not certain.

The radiator is still giving off heat, although it never really gave off all that much to begin with, relative to the other radiator in my apartment. Does that have anything to do with it?

Human powered heater?

wongcorgi — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:43:14 -0800

Is there such a thing as a self powered/manual heater? I figured this would be useful as my family normally stays in one room during the winter to save on energy costs - a small heat source is generally enough to keep it comfortable. Or possibly when the power goes out to generate some heat.

I keep thinking- this is a good idea, yet something tells me that it's completely stupid.

Google only brings up a bunch of patent listings.

How should I stay warm this winter?

apricot — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 20:40:53 -0800

Which is more efficient/economical to run: a baseboard heater or an oil-filled radiator-type space heater? I'm a Californian getting ready for my first winter in Massachusetts. My apartment has electric baseboard heaters. I have never had those before, and I'm worried my bill is going to be HUGE once it gets cold. It doesn't help that whenever I tell someone those are the heaters I have they dramatically wince and hiss through their teeth. Also, one of my neighbors said her bill was several hundred dollars a month last winter. I'm thinking an oil-filled radiator might be sufficient and a lot less expensive to run.

Bonus question: I have two cats, and would love to have a safer heating source to leave on if I'm going to be out for several hours or overnight. A different neighbor, who also has cats, says she leaves her heaters on when she's not home, but that seems really unsafe to me. Are baseboard heaters safe, or are the other ones safer?

Here are the details:
My living room is basically one big room with a doorway to the kitchen on one end. The living room and kitchen each have drafty old windows (both of which I have covered with that lovely plastic sheeting stuff, which has already helped a lot). There is a front door and a back door that both open up to unheated stairwells. I bought weatherstripping for the doors but haven't installed it yet. My apartment is on the top/second floor, with apartments below and on either side. The building was built in the 70s. The windows and heaters seem to date from then too.

There is one long baseboard heater underneath the window. It's controlled by a dial thermostat on the opposite wall near the kitchen and front door. I spend most of my time at my desk or on the couch, which are near one end of the heater, in the opposite corner from the thermostat. It seems like I could get a space heater to warm the corner where the cats and I spend the most time, and avoid having the baseboard heater running and heating the whole room. I'm an impoverished grad student, and am worried about having to pay huge chunks of my stipend to WMECO. Would it be less expensive to run the space heater, and would that be enough to keep me and the cats warm?

I used to live in a drafty old house in Portland, where the wind ripped the plastic sheets right off the windows and we kept the thermostat at 60, so I know the drill about bundling up indoors and am generally a hot person anyway, but I have never been through a New England winter and I don't know if my plan is realistic or not. Can anyone with experience chime in?

How to tell when a furnace is on its last leg?

Nonce — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 10:19:16 -0800

I have a 20-year-old furnace. The HVAC person is coming today to do a minor repair (expected cost less than $400). When s/he sees how old it is, I fully expect him/her to push me to have a new furnace installed.

Should I? I know it's lived past its planned lifespan, but there aren't any moving parts. If nothing else is wrong with the furnace, should I insist on just the minor repair? If there are a few other minor items that need adjustment, what is the cutoff at which I should say fuck it, install a new furnace? $1,000? Or more or less than that?

It's a SnyderGeneral model GUG117A016N manufactured in 1989.

How can I make my rented flat warmer? On the cheap, if possible?

handee — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 15:58:31 -0800

I'm renting a flat and it's cold, and it's going to get colder (I'm on a 1 year contract in the alps). Is there anything noninvasive (preferably cheap, but I'm ok to spend if it's really going to work) that I can do to warm the place up? What sort of portable space heaters give the best performance for electricity/gas? Are there any decent renter-based guides to improving insulation? There's one mains gas heater in the middle of the flat that's supposed to cover the whole thing. I have shutters and decent single glazing. Local people who've visited have looked at the heater and laughed.

Heating a workshop

drezdn — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 10:30:12 -0800

What's a good portable and safe way to heat a detached garage that's used as a workshop. I have a detached garage that I use for woodworking and electronics projects. Since there will be a lot of sawdust around, I don't want to use a traditional space heater because of fire fears.

An oil-filled portable radiator seems like it might work, but it looks like they take a while to heat up.

Is there a better solution that I'm over-looking?

Installing geo thermal in an old house with boiler?

idyllhands — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 20:07:09 -0800

Installing geo thermal in an old house with boiler? I am considering buying an old (1910s) house with a boiler and radiators installed. I was thinking it would be great to convert it to run off of geothermal. How difficult/expensive would this be? I live in Kansas, so we need good heating as well as cooling for summer. I was hoping to accomplish both with a geothermal system.

Is our cat in danger of over heating?

firemonkey — Sat, 29 Aug 2009 10:56:07 -0800

We have an apartment with no air conditioning and it's going to be over 80 degrees today. Should I be worried about our indoor cat over heating? We live in SF where it rarely gets above 70 degrees. However, today it's 11AM and it's already 80!!!! Our apartment has no air conditioning, but I have opened all the windows and turned on our one window fan.
I am worried that our cat will over heat. I've made sure she has plenty of water, but I'm still worried. I tried wiping her down with a wet towel (which she did not appreciate at all.) Am I being silly, or should this be a real concern? Is there something else I can do to make sure she doesn't get too hot?

Will my heating bills go up if I rip out my lowered ceilings?

christinetheslp — Sun, 09 Aug 2009 19:54:31 -0800

The previous owner of my house lowered the ceilings to save energy. I hate them. If I take the new ceilings down, will my energy bills go up that much? At some point the previous owners of my house stopped using the old heating vents near the ceilings and put in new vents near the floor. At that time they also put new, lower ceilings in the bedrooms and hallway with the idea that lower ceilings would keep the warm air down and lower heating bills.

I hate these ceilings. They're acoustic tile with fluorescent lights. My husband and I poked up a tile and were surprised to find the house's original ceiling, intact and in great shape, a mere eight inches or so above the new ceiling. I'd love to rip out the new ceiling and expose the old, nicer ceiling. However, I'm reluctant to do this for fear that my heating bills will go up. I don't think they would, but I'm not sure.

Could lowering the ceiling eight inches really lower your heating bills? Or will I not see a difference if I take the lower ceilings out?

Thanks!

How can I find the best rebates for home heating/cooling?

amanda — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 08:50:06 -0800

Replacing the AC and furnace -- is now the time to buy? Tell me what you know about rebates! So, our beloved and quaint and possible original (1950s) AC unit passed away quietly in the night. We knew when we bought this place that that thing was existing on a whisper and a prayer but for the Northwest we hoped it would last another couple years. We only need AC about two weeks per year... this week would be VERY nice to have it. So, now we're thinking about replacing it -- minimum quote is $4000.

While we're doing that, we are talking about our furnace. It is very old but works fine. However, we are on an oil tank and the cost of that is staggering and doesn't seem like it's likely to come down much. Last winter it cost us about $2500 for the season. This took us from October to March, so about $400/month for our 900 sf house. And, we kept it off most of the time.

So, we're thinking of switching to gas and replacing the furnace at the same time. Minimum cost, about $12,000.

The guy who came out and gave an estimate (we've worked with them before and like them but we'll be getting another bid) is all hopped up about their current rebates and how they will expire at the end of august and "who knows what'll be coming down the pipe" after that. So, how can I fact-check the current rebates -- is there a single source for this?

Does attic ventilation = more efficient air conditioning?

JFitzpatrick — Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:50:15 -0800

Is leaving the windows in my attic cracked beneficial for keeping my air conditioning bill low? I'm curious if my present strategy has any benefit at all or if I'm misguided in my approach:

My home was built in the 1930s. The attic is half finished, half storage with windows on both ends of the space. There are no heating and cooling vents in the attic.

The door to the attic has weather stripping and a sturdy draft guard at the bottom.

During the summer the attic gets roastingly hot. It's better now that I installed a ridge vent instead of the cruddy little can vents, but it's still quite hot up there.

I've been opening the windows on each end to get a cross breeze which lowers the attic temp. easily 10-15 degrees. For what it's worth I live in a very windy area and there is a steady cross breeze almost 24/7.

Assuming that my floors and walls are properly insulated (the floor between the attic and the living space and the walls under the attic), which I believe they are based on my inspection... is leaving the windows open to provide natural ventilation (no powered fans that would create a negative pressure space) benefiting or hurting my energy efficiency with the air conditioner on?

It seems that lowering the attic temperature can only benefit me, but I'm not heating and cooling specialist and may be overlooking something outside my scope of knowledge.

Thanks!

my homemade heating pad stinks!

nadawi — Mon, 18 May 2009 06:51:42 -0800

help me make a microwaveable heating pad that doesn't burn or smell bad. barring that, help me buy one. i made a heating pad following many instructions on the internet. i went the "tie some rice in a sock and microwave it" route. i wanted to try it before i did something crazy like sew one. i'm glad i did because i'm getting undesired results.

i've made 3 in the last two weeks or so. my experiences go like this: make sock/rice heating pad (both brown and white rice have been tried), for the first few microwave trips (a minute to two minutes, and then every 20 minutes or so, another minute, for stretches of about an hour or two).

after the first few heatings there is residual water on the sock, then slowly, in the next few heatings, everything smells vaugly like day old burnt popcorn or burnt rice on a rice cooker. then it takes on a smell that can't be dealt with and it gets thrown away and i start over. the rice is also very dark brown to black at this point.

i've read online about adding oils or herbs, but this won't actually help the burning problem, just mask the odor for longer. is there another solutions? is there a grain better suited that won't get burned?

i also am not adverse to buying something professionally made if it does the job. i want something soft, about 6"x3", that can be reheated in the microwave so i can control the temperature (hot hands and the sodium acetate warmers fail the temperature control test). i don't want anything electrical.

help me stay warm!

Cheap heats?

msalt — Wed, 29 Apr 2009 14:15:32 -0800

Are there any good low-capital alternatives to electric Cadet heaters for warming and cooling my house? My old (1900) house has only Cadet heaters (circa late 1990s) for warmth, probably because a previous owner ripped out a furnace to convert the basement into a rental unit (which it still is). 3 stories -- bsmt, main floor, attic converted into master bedroom, 2900 SF. There is no ductwork at all right now. Weatherization is weak.

Are there any practical alternatives? Even just better brands of heaters? My electric bill is quite high in winter, as you can imagine -- this is in Portland OR -- and I don't have the $14,000 I was quoted for a central heat pump, even with the $2K or so in tax rebates I could get. It's a shame though because the attic gets pretty hot and the heat pump sounded nice.

Could I get a relatively inexpensive ductless heat pump just for the attic, and how would that compare to a window AC unit? Is there a way to install a heat pump there without tying up the only window? I see web pages quoting around $1,000 "per ton of cooling capacity" -- what does that mean? Or would I be better off putting any available money into better windows and insulation? Thx

Help keep me hot and cold!

griffey — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 13:52:01 -0800

Can someone recommend a programmable thermostat that will save me from insane energy bills? My house is a Cape Cod style with an open loft area in the front, and two thermostats and heating/cooling units, one for upstairs and one for the down. Should I replace both thermostats, or will replacing the one be effective enough in helping with energy costs?

Also, I can't find recommendations I trust anywhere on these things...Amazon is useless. In an ideal world, the new thermostats would be the first step to a home automation system, so it's a bonus if they speak some common automation language that I can control with a Mac, or over the web. I'm tempted by the shiny fancy of something like the ecobee, but if I can get similar functionality without the crazy cost, all the better. Which programmable can you recommend?

I'm also a bit concerned about the installation. I'm handy to the point of something like installing a dimmer switch, but the installation of the ecobee made me doubt that I could do it. Are other programmables less complicated?

In conclusion: Which programmable do I want, will it really help me, do I need two of them, and can I install it without killing myself or the house?

Thanks, AskMeFi!

Ok, so you have hot rocks. Now what?

bitter-girl.com — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 10:56:42 -0800

This weekend, I saw a green renovation show that used a large amount of gravel in the basement to hold heat gathered from a solar-collecting area in the roof. My dad, a builder, says this method doesn't work well. Help me understand if someone has devised a "better mousetrap" or if this is just something that has never worked and is being done for greenwashing on TV... The premise: attic space with solar glass panels in the roof (which are exceptionally clear and transmit the most UV rays through) also features double-insulated windows on the inside wall to let light in. Space heats up, presumably like a big solar cooker, and using a 12" PVC tube + small fan, the heat is transmitted to a large, concrete-block-walled room in the basement filled with a few tons of gravel.

Show host says the heat from the attic space warms the rocks, whose thermal mass then distributes the heat for up to 48 hrs. But HOW?

My dad's a carpenter, and worked for a gravel company in the 70s. He said he's seen this done before but it's not very effective.

Effective/efficient are two different things... presuming the heat makes it down and warms up the rocks, sure, they'll stay warm for a while, but what's making my head hurt is HOW can this heat be used to warm up the rest of the house? Even as an adjunct heat source, it just seems as if you'd have a nice warm roomful of rocks in the basement and not any real effect elsewhere, no?

I'm interested in building a straw bale house with an insulated foundation someday and am wondering if putting a system like this would help warm the area under the first floor, but can't quite wrap my head around how this works, or would work best... thanks!

How to get my microwave oven to heat again

Sia Stewart — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 06:17:09 -0800

Why did my microwave oven stop heating after I tried to use it to heat water in a clear pyrex measuring cup? And how can I get it to work again? I've had the not-heating problem before, and it has gone away. I can't remember whether I did something to make it work again. This time, I tried unplugging the oven and plugging it in again -- no dice. Everything works except for the heating up part.

I can't afford this.

PFL — Tue, 13 Jan 2009 19:00:04 -0800

Why does my electric furnace use twice as much energy as my neighbor's? I live in a townhome development and we have the same floor plan. My electric bill for the past two months has been $400 each month and I can't figure out why. I live a roughly 1900 sq ft townhome that is new; construction finished around October 2008. My neighbor's electric bill was about $200 over the last month. The only relevant difference I can think of is that I have the end unit in our row and he doesn't. I keep the heat set at 66 degrees in the house and the average temperature in my city was 41 degrees in December, for what it's worth.

I have been checking my meter since I got my latest bill and I am on pace for another $400 bill this month. Through switching breakers off and the process of elimination, I determined that the heater is the issue. I averaged about 5 kwh per hour of electric usage over the last couple months, compared to 1kwh per hour when I shut off the heat or cut the breaker. There was one hour where the heater was running full-time to re-heat the house after cutting the heat off and that used 16kwh for that hour.

My neighbor is using about 2.5 kwh per hour on his last bill compared to my 5kwh.

My heater isn't blowing all the time, but when it does it uses an insane amount of power.

Is my end unit the culprit? I have a hard time imagining that it would cause me to double my heating costs. Does it make sense that my heating unit would draw more power than it should when it's running, but no power when it's not?

Oh, and a final data point. I was not the first person to move in to my section of townhomes, and the other end unit was occupied well before mine. My electric meter is reading more than twice is high than everyone else's. If it was an increased bill due to having the end unit, the other end unit would have a reading like mine, wouldn't it?

Heating an empty house

hazyjane — Sun, 04 Jan 2009 05:06:21 -0800

When I was out of town, my landlord came in and turned the heating on in the house I'm renting from him. This is in the UK. I am renting a terraced house in a cold climate in the north of the UK. When I left town for Christmas for two weeks, I turned the heating and the hot water off. I had also given permission to the landlord to enter the house to perform some minor repairs.

When I came back, the heating had been switched back on. It was set to 17.5 C (about 64F) and was on the continuous heat setting, even though the thermostat is easily programmable (we generally have it come on twice a day for two hours total when we're home).

I asked the landlord about this and he said "I turned the heat on low which is all that's required when out of town."

I'm really quite upset about this as I've been working hard to keep the heating bills down by following tips that I read online about how to save energy, wearing extra layers when inside, using the programmable thermostat, etc. But now the heat has been on constantly and I wasn't even here to enjoy it! I imagine the landlord did this to prevent the pipes from freezing, but this seems very much like overkill as the house is a modern terrace, well-insulated, and I don't believe there are any exposed pipes.

The landlord is very nice and friendly so I'm not sure what to do. Any ideas?

Heat is expensive!

backseatpilot — Sat, 03 Jan 2009 19:50:12 -0800

My heating bill is about twice as much as my downstairs neighbors'. What's going on, and what can I do to mitigate the cost? I live in a multifamily house on the second floor. My gas bill was $240 last month, twice that of my downstairs neighbors. Even with the differences in the apartments (enumerated below), this seems ridiculous. I left a message for the landlord to talk about it, but I would like to know two things - what should I ask her to look at, and what can I do to the apartment to insulate it better?

Some data points:

-Replacement windows were installed a year or two before I moved in, but they're very drafty. I can feel a breeze while sitting on the couch.
-There are lots of doors to the apartment. Two doors to the unheated stairway (one is sealed but not insulated around the jamb), one to the front balcony, and one in the kitchen to the (also unheated) back staircase. None of them seem terribly well insulated. Downstairs only has two doors, one main entrance and a door to the backyard.
-Downstairs only uses one of the two bedrooms. They've turned off the radiator to the guest room.
-Downstairs also has doors in the doorways that go to the back half of the apartment, which they keep closed. The kitchen is in the back and is unheated. The previous tenants in my place removed the doors and hardware.
-The heat is natural gas with radiators (unsure what type, but they do hiss and spit a lot).
-Downstairs also replaced their thermostat with a programmable model. I only have the manual round dial type that requires me to remember to turn the heat down.
-I keep the heat at about 68 when I'm in the apartment and 60-ish at night and when I go to work.
-Both apartments use the same model boiler and same basic heating setup.
-There is a third apartment above mine that uses electric baseboard heaters (I think). There's no boiler for upstairs.
-The apartment is two bedrooms, maybe 700-800 square feet. Lots of windows - 6 plus two doors in the living room alone.

With all that, does it seem there's enough of a difference between the two apartments to warrant such a huge discrepancy in heating costs? Is it reasonable to ask the landlord to seal up the windows? Could the thermostat be broken? How can I seal the doors to the apartment?

Also, I realize this is paranoid but is it at all possible that the upstairs apartment is leeching heat from my boiler? How can I tell if that's the case?

This is my first winter in this apartment, and the first place I haven't had heat included in the rent, so I really have no idea what I should be paying on my gas bill.

Device to redirect wall vent output

ObscureReferenceMan — Mon, 08 Dec 2008 10:47:54 -0800

Homeowner HVAC Filter: Where to find a "vent redirector"? I have my living room couch directly in front of a wall vent (~6-8 inches from the ground). Currently, I have closed and taped off the vent (bad, I know). I am trying to find a device that will redirect the output down, and under the couch. Similar to this, but for a wall vent. I'm positive I've seen such an item before, but am stumped. Any ideas? Thanks!
Please do not include "move your couch" suggestions in answers. The couch must stay where it is. Thanks again!

What's the oily discharge coming from our central air and heat?!

GilloD — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 08:20:09 -0800

Our central AC/Heating system leaked some kind of, uh, oil (!?) last night. I have no idea what it is, the super is baffled. More inside. My wife and I have been living in our current apartment for about 6 months now. It has central air and heat, ducts upstairs and downstairs, and those ducts are covered with sheet rock or drywall- Something to obscure them and make them mesh with the walls.

We've had no problems with the AC and while the heat is INCREDIBLY HOT and dry, we've had no problems using it for the last 6 weeks or so.

Last night my wife noticed what looked like water damage spreading in a maybe 6x6 inch circle. I was concerned, so I got up on a ladder and wiped it up. To my surprise it was NOT water. It was slightly oily and had a faint odor. It reminds me of mechanical lubricant. It's a clear liquid and it had collected in a couple of fat drops within the circle, but none had dripped on the table below.

I wiped it up and aside from a very hard to see oil stain underneath the duct, there hasn't been any other leakage.

As far as I know, our heat is gas, not oil. We are on the first floor, but no one above us has had any issues.

We're flummoxed, the super is flummoxed, I was hoping MeFi might have some suggestions. As of this morning no more of the, uh, discharge had collected in that spot despite our running the heat on and off all night.

Thoughts?