Ask MetaFilter questions tagged with handyman

How can I get hands-on training in home improvement locally?

Vorteks — Thu, 31 Jan 2013 13:50:24 -0800

Is there some kind of class, part-time apprenticeship, or in-home tutor I can use to get hands-on handyman training near Livonia, MI? I bought a house last June. Yay! But now I'm realizing that I really have no idea how to take care of it or perform the numerous small improvements that need to be made. I've bought a couple books on home improvement and maintenance, and I know there are a lot of "how to" videos on Youtube and such. But even though such things exist, I feel like they don't give me the confidence and familiarity I would get if I actually had someone guiding me and working with me as I did things.

So what I'm wondering is, is there some kind of "handyman" class I can take? Locally? Google searches have led me to this certificate program in NY, and a few similar things, but unfortunately they're not located anywhere near me (I'm in Livonia, MI, USA).

Yeah, I have a few handy friends I might be able to call to help out with some specific issues if I needed. But I think I want a greater volume of training than I'd be comfortable asking a friend to provide.

If you don't know of any hands-on training in my area, but you do know about some really good online resources that I don't know about, that would also be appreciated.

Looking to start a simple home toolkit

Highest_Of_Fives — Sat, 29 Dec 2012 17:00:39 -0800

Looking to buy a toolbox with essential tools I'm not a handy man, but often engage in simple around the house fixes. Most recently tightening a hex bolt for my shower head, installing a Dyson vac wall mount, shelves, and putting together a home theater stand.

I've purchased several 5$0 "tool kits" in plastic suit cases in the past and the quality of the tools was garbage. On top of that, fitment of tools into the suit case is hit or miss and they typically fall out when I open it. Annoying.

I want to start over and buy essentials piece by piece over time - hoping for quality over quantity.

My father recently gave me cordless Dewalt Drill, and a Black and Decker Rotary Tool w/ accessories. I'd like to build around that.

Here are my basic needs/questions:

1) I want a "tool box" (not a bag) thats large enough to hold the drills/charges/tools on the bottom. I was looking at this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GSL6I8/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

2) Need a way to store small accessories/bits/screws/anchors/etc.

3) While looking at screwdrivers, I ran into this kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MF754W/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER which looks good (For the price). Does this look worthy?

4) The Dewalt that my father gave me does not have any bits. I was looking at this kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SL30RC/ref=oh_details_o01_s02_i00

5) What tools in your opinion are must haves? I'd prefer sets to have their own enclosures so that pieces do not get lost.

Any advice (and Amazon links) would be great!

Fantastic! Now ... how to hang it

notcomputersavvy06 — Tue, 25 Dec 2012 11:13:20 -0800

Calling all handymen and women, artists and other problem solvers; how to hang totally awesome (but heavy) acrylic painting my boyfriend made me for Christmas My completely great boyfriend recreated a style of artwork I'd been coveting by painting stripes onto acrylic panels. Now, the dilemma ... how to hang them. Typically, it is done by drilling holes in the four corners of the panels and attaching to the wall via a metal standoff. We're trying to brainstorm a different way that doesn't alter the front of the pictures. Here are the concerns/issues. The paint is applied directly to the back of the acrylic...there is no other backing, just the paint. We're concerned about using glues to adhere brackets (wooden or metal) to the back for fear that the glue will react (eat through) the paint, thereby altering the piece when viewed from the front. (Glue suggestions welcomed.) We've considered using Very High Bond tape to adhere brackets, but are concerned there is not enough surface area on the brackets to hold the weight of the panels. (VHB tape instructions suggest using 4 sq. in. of tape per pound of weight.) The smallest panel weighs 3 lbs and is 48 by 9 inches in size and the largest weighs 10 lbs and is 48 by 24 inches big. My walls are regular ol' drywall. Any suggestions given these parameters?

How can I strengthen my futon frame?

blue t-shirt — Sun, 20 May 2012 10:29:40 -0800

Soliciting suggestions from handyperson types: How can I reinforce my futon to withstand heavier loads? I've recently moved out on my own and bought a futon for the master bedroom. I've always found them to be comfortable and priced right. It's a Day & Night Eureka model. The frame is made from oak, but the hinge section features this rubber contraption attached to the back deck which makes it pretty easy to assemble and transform.

Problem is, my partner and I combine to exceed the weight allowance for the futon, and more than once, the front deck has popped out of the hinge, so the bed spontaneously disassembles beneath our heft. By avoiding the tender points of the bed, I've managed to avoid many unpleasant collapses, but it's now given out on me in the middle of the night while sleeping solo, so something must be done.

I'm evaluating my options to reinforce the thing. I'm not concerned with locking the futon in Bed Mode - that's a sacrifice I'm willing to make - but if possible, I'd like to do this without making irreversible modifications to the frame (e.g. drilling holes). That said, I'm evaluating three options right now:

Lash the decks to the futon arms with rope or zip ties

Prop up the futon beneath the joint connecting the decks with bricks or wood

Drill through the arms into the decks and insert large bolts

To aid in visualization, here are some snapshots of the frame in question:

low-flying bird's-eye view (the front deck is on the left side)
rubber hinge assembly

Any and all suggestions are welcome, especially those from handyperson/woodworking types that have a sense of what's structurally sound. Thanks very much!

This is my first AskMe post - apologies for any inadvertent transgressions!

Carpenter/Handyman in Arlington, VA

gemmy — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 11:04:41 -0800

Trying to find a reliable and reasonably priced carpenter/handyman in Arlington, Virginia The office of my tiny non-profit (in Rosslyn) was just renovated/repainted, which meant that a bunch of stuff we had hanging on the walls had to come down. That included a bunch of mounted shelves and a few whiteboards. Now that the renovation is complete, my boss wants us to put the shelves back up. While my colleague and I could do it, for sure, it would take at least a day or so, and we really don't have time to deal with it.

So I'm trying to find a good, and reliable handyman/carpenter type person that could put the shelves and whiteboards up for a reasonable price, while we do our regular jobs. I'm leery of trying to find someone on craigslist, and the few places we cold-called were not interested for something small like that. The original renovation contractor is no longer working in the building, and they were hired by the landlord anyway.

Any suggestions for types of search terms to use, other resources to try, or suggestions for specific companies/people would all be welcome. Thanks!

How hard is this DIY replacement?

smitt — Fri, 28 Oct 2011 07:12:24 -0800

Handyman Help: How do you replace a shower handle? I'm not a handy-man, but I follow instructions well and I've got a full set of tools.

I went to take a shower this morning, and the handle that turns my shower on and controls temperature came off in my hand.

It looks like this: http://imgur.com/ReyoG

I don't want to fix it, because honestly the one that's on there is a POS and I've felt it was bound to break sooner or later, and now it has.

Is replacing this something I can do myself? How hard is it?

I will only have access on the "shower" side, I don't want to have to pull down any walls to do this. I could if absolutely necessary, but I'd ideally like to avoid this at all costs.

I'm not going to hire someone to do this cause, well, I'd feel like less of a man if I couldn't fix this myself ;)

How do I learn to become a handyman?

abdulf — Tue, 16 Aug 2011 08:05:10 -0800

How do you gain "handyman" skills to the extent that you can manage a rental property? I've always rented an apartment and never had a reason, or a chance, to fix things up myself.

I'm currently saving for a house, but instead of purchasing a single family house, I want to try to purchase a duplex or something similar. I would like to have at least one or more units that I can rent out.

I have read up on this subject and many people suggest that for it to be profitable, you have to know how to do things like repair leaks, paint, change carpet, etc.

I'm fairly limited in my house repair skills. Let's just say, if it involves more than changing a lightbulb, I hire someone to do it.

I think I'll start by attending home improvement workshops at places like Home Depot and volunteer with Habitat for Humanity.

But maybe you have some experiences or ideas I haven't thought of. How did you learn to become a handyman?

Someone who can rewire my lamp in Brooklyn?

rmless — Wed, 27 Jul 2011 09:13:53 -0800

Rewiring an old rusted lamp in Brooklyn? I have a few items that need to be rewired, thanks to my lovely chompy bunny who thinks they are delicious despite having fancy toys of his own.
Do you know where (preferably not too far from Park Slope) I can have this done?
I have a car so I can bring the things to a shop, or I could call someone to come over and do it for me.
I think this is more than a regular handyman job, but I don't know for sure.
Any personal recommendations?

How to plug a water leak, food-safe?

anthill — Tue, 08 Feb 2011 17:46:39 -0800

My stovetop espresso maker has a small leak. I don't think returning it will help me. Are there any recipes for food-safe 'stop leak' compounds? The coffee maker is a Vev Vigano Carioca in stainless steel. The leak is in the water tank, around the pressure relief valve (not through it). Viewed from the inside, it seems the brass pressure relief valve was installed by being 'punched' through the stainless water tank, leaving a rough, splayed surface. I imagine there's a small gap between brass and stainless where steam / water can escape.

The place I bought it from is a ways away, and it doesn't seem possible to test coffee pots for leaks before buying, so I don't think returning it is worthwhile.

Is there any solution I could buy/make that would do a decent job of sealing the tiny leaks around the pressure valve? Of course, whatever I use has to be food safe (no automotive products!).

shelves on a plasterboard wall?

uauage — Sun, 25 Jul 2010 14:17:10 -0800

I want to install some shelves on a wall that sounds hollow when I knock on it. I'm pretty sure it's a plasterboard wall. Can I even do this? Or the whole thing will collapse? Do I need special screws and plugs? Will the drill destroy the wall completely? The shelves are Ikea's Varde. Here. I don't need to load them with heavy things, just some books and craft supplies.

Hacker Blogs?

vostok — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 10:42:21 -0800

Hacker Blogs? Hello. I like some individual hacker blogs e.g:

1. Andrew Hazelden
2. Mike Warot
3. Dan Reetz

Which hacker blogs do you like?

Do see the tags.

How do I change a (halogen) light bulb?

tobtoh — Fri, 26 Feb 2010 17:39:13 -0800

How do I change a lightbulb? Sounds like the start of a bad blonde joke, but I'm seriously struggling to work out how to change my blown halogen lights without breaking the halogen leads of bulb after bulb. I've got two sorts of halogen lights in my home. The first type is in my bathroom (photos: empty socket and with bulb inserted). My uncle replaced one of these bulbs once for me - it theoretically should be a simple pull out the blown bulb and insert a new bulb into the two small holes. However, there is a metal plate inside the two small holes which I assume is spring loaded to hold the bulb in place. The problem arises because you need to apply an inordinate amount of force to get the bulb leads to push that plate aside and I've gone through about 6 bulbs so far trying to force them in ... my uncle did it once so I'm assuming this is the correct technique ... am I missing something? Surely it can't be so hard to change a bulb?

The second type is more common throughout the rest of my house (photo). Given the difficulties I've had with the bathroom halogens, I'm a bit scared to have a shot at replacing these. Am I supposed to pull out the bulb and replace it like in the bathroom, or is the whole reflector 'dish' and bulb supposed to come out as one?

Thanks in advance.

The handyman can?

laroodles — Mon, 01 Feb 2010 04:41:05 -0800

Who would you recommend for some repairs that need to be done on our recently purchased Toronto home? We would like to hire someone to do some general work including some caulking, weather stripping, correcting some circuitry, dealing with bleeding rads, some venting stuff and some cosmetic woodworking repairs. Who should we consult to tell us how to fix the house? Is this the work of a handyman or a contractor or both? Any personal recommendations would be greatly appreciated, we are very reluctant to pick a person/agency at random from the Toronto Yellow Pages. Thanks for your help!

Old Bosch jigsaw model equivalent?

Sebmojo — Tue, 15 Dec 2009 19:57:20 -0800

I'm looking for a second hand jigsaw that is equivalent in quality to a Bosch GST 100 BCE - any ideas? In a hilarious yet really damn annoying mishap, one of the tradespeople who worked on our kitchen recently took a jigsaw that a builder friend lent us. We've asked them all, but they claim not to have it - so, it's replacement time. Unfortunately the model of jigsaw, above, is no longer current.

What is a model of equivalent quality that I can look for second hand? Even better, any idea where I could pick up a GST 100 BCE in New Zealand for under $NZ200?

Stabilizing a wooden bedframe

ocherdraco — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 14:24:09 -0800

How can I make my bed more stable? My bedroom set is all lovely blond wood furniture from the early 40s. I love it, and don't want to give it up. The bed, however, is becoming exasperating.

The substantial headboard and footboard are connected by long pieces (similar to but thicker than 1x6), each of which has a half-inch lip to hold the slats which support the mattress. There are only four slats, which are pieces of 1x3. When all four slats are in place, the bed supports the mattress quite well, with very little noise. The problem is that, over the course of a few months of sleeping on it (or fewer, if it's being used for more vigorous activity), the slats shift and fall out (usually one at a time, thank goodness), making the whole thing seem unstable, and creak like crazy. Re-setting them is a major hassle involving moving the bed, lifting the mattress and box spring, and shimmying the slats back into place multiple times on either side until they stay put.

How can I fix my bed so that I:
a) don't damage the frame
b) keep the slats from falling out
c) make the bed more stable than it currently is with all four slats in place

Should I add more slats? How can I stabilize them so they won't fall out? Would it make more sense to use a sheet of plywood which would be less likely to fall out, or would that be too heavy for the narrow lip?

The Handyman Can, the Handyman Can

mmf — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:47:41 -0800

We need a handyman in the Princeton, NJ area. Qualifications are: competent, neat, honest, reliable. The problem seems to be that everyone wants to do serious remodeling, and we have more of a honey-do list. Tried Angie's List, but the names are mostly in the Philadelphia area.

What a tool.

TomMelee — Sat, 08 Aug 2009 13:30:53 -0800

What is the best open-anything bit/wrench kit you know? I do a lot of PC repair--laptop, desktop, as well as some normal handyman type stuff too. I'm starting to do housecalls for PC repair, and would looooooove a kit that lived in its own clamshell.

I've looked at ebay, amazon, and thinkgeek, and really don't feel like I can make a good decision based on the info they give.

Major bonus points for it to include tamper-proof bits, and things like a flashlight or anti-static strap would be nice too. Soldering iron not necessary.

Extra hardware isn't necessary (jumpers, connectors, case screws, mobo mounts, etc) although a space to store them would be radical.

I feel like I've read this question on here before but couldn't find it.

So summary: pc case tools/bits are a must and are of primary importance, but lots of bits can't hurt.

Washing Machine: Boom!

greekphilosophy — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 18:34:30 -0800

Was that a helicopter in my kitchen? No. It was the washing machine. Um. Help? I was just sitting here reading MetaFilter and drinking some coffee when I heard a terrible noise downstairs. The washing machine was on its final spin cycle, but was bucking around the kitchen. I turned it off immediately, and looked inside to find the basket just sitting there - no longer centered - and hanging in a sad sort of not-right kind of way.

1. I'd like to know what's going on and how to proceed.
2. I need to know if this is something I can fix myself. And if not, what do I need to tell my repairman so that she can bring the right tools/parts to make it go again?

Information:

It wasn't overloaded. I was doing a light load. But there was a rug in there, which I am willing to bet was a little lopsided.

The washer model is a Whirlpool Heavy Duty Thin Twin. (Stacked washer/dryer combo.)

Handy(wo)man recommendations in Brooklyn?

Dr. Wu — Mon, 08 Dec 2008 18:38:31 -0800

Can anyone recommend a reliable, affordable handy(wo)man in Brooklyn / NYC? We have a chiffarobe/wardrobe thingy that we'd like to convert into an "entertainment center," which means the following things need to be done:

- side walls reinforced (they're thin);
- 3-4 shelves added;
- new panel cut into the front of the wardrobe;
- holes cut in shelves and back wall for the cords.

Nothing gigantic for someone with a little woodworking know-how and a reciprocating saw, but outside of my do-it-yerself abilities. (And outside the limits of my modest toolkit.)

I've found plenty of listings for handy(wo)men (at craigslist, e.g.), but it's very difficult to tell how reliable any of them are. I would love to know about a handy(wo)man whom you trust, who has good woodworking skills, and whose prices are reasonable.

We've gotten estimates from a few people, but the figures vary widely, and (the key point) we have no way of knowing whether any of these folks is reliable. Anyone you'd recommend?

How to Covert inactive locksets into active locksets?

tickettrader — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 09:18:44 -0800

How difficult is it to convert an 'inactive' lockset to an active lockset. I have a set of double doors that has an 'inactive lockset'. Basically it's got two sets of doorknobs that don't do anything. How difficult is it to convert these doors to an active lockset so I can close and lock these doors? They don't need to be secured like Fort Knox but it would be nice if they could be closed and locked if need be. I realize this will involve some drilling/boring as the doors are not bored for a lockset like typical doors.

how hard is it to install replacement windows?

stupidsexyFlanders — Tue, 10 Jun 2008 13:21:21 -0800

I'm moderately handy. Is installing a replacement window something I can do? Or should I leave it to the pros? Stuff I've built includes built-in bookcases and lots of outdoor furniture. I've also hung drywall. Would I run into major problems installing replacement windows in a 100yo home, or should I leave this to the pros? These would be casement and doublehung windows of various sizes.

If you've done it, got any tips and tricks to make the job easier for a window novice? How much time will it take per window?

How do you open a stuck window?

meghanmiller — Wed, 09 Apr 2008 14:43:24 -0800

How do you un-stick a stuck window? We've tried most of the obvious things, and now don't know what to do. My partner and I recently moved into a new (to us) house. Our bedroom is in the finished attic, and it has three small windows. Last night was the first time since we moved in that we needed to open those windows.

They were all stuck.

One of them opened after I ran a utility knife around the edge to break the paint seal. The other two, though, are being more resistant. Utility knives were run around the edges, and nothing happened. I tried padding the windowsill and then using the handle of a hammer to lever the windows open, and they didn't budge (though the windows and handles are old enough that the handle loosened right up--not quite the desired effect). We tried squirting a bit of oil down the edge of the frame, over the runners, and nothing.

The windows obviously haven't been opened since the last time the house was painted, and I'm wondering if some of the paint dripped down the sill and is adhering the window to the sill, instead of the frame as all of the how-to-loosen-a-stuck-window guides assume.

We rent the place, but for various reasons would rather not have to call the landlord if we don't have to. That said, we're not afraid of messing up the paint, playing with sharp objects, oils, basic tools, whatever. (And yes, I tried gently hitting the bottom (wood) part of the window with the hammer to loosen it up. No go.)

Surely there's some way to fix this that we're missing, right? Should I just keep going at it with the utility knife and assume that eventually I'll get to a point where it works? Is there some sort of magical spray that we can put on it to loosen things up?

Help me hang my curtains!

syzygy — Sat, 02 Feb 2008 06:10:44 -0800

DIY: I'm hanging two sets of rolling curtains from IKEA today in my apartment. Each one will be hanging from the ceiling of a window niche, which is drywall. I have not had the best of luck hanging curtains from drywall in the past. The anchor points always seem to loosen up over time, so I thought I'd see if I could get some good advice and do it right this time.

Here are a few pictures I took of the window and hardware:
The Window, Curtain Hanger with measuring tape, Curtain Hanger where I need to anchor it, Fasteners / Anchors that I have at my disposal.

Tape measure is in centimeters.

Will it be a problem to mount the anchors so close to a corner? What sort of fastener should I use? Also, my apartment is in Europe, in case specific construction methods here have any bearing on the answers to my questions.

broken sliding window theory

wolfsleepy — Wed, 10 Jan 2007 20:50:06 -0800

The sliding window in my bedroom is stuck, and it is very cold outside. How can I put it right? Hello, hive-mind.

While attempting to open (or close) the window this morning, my partner somehow caused it to jam or come off of it's track.

It will not slide left nor right. It seems to be fixed at the top center, and will move slightly around this point.

Where, and how, should I apply force to get the window back on track? I've been afraid of making it worse.

I've included a helpful picture or two. Can you see the snow in the background?

Bay Area handyman

cubedweller — Thu, 26 Oct 2006 11:31:53 -0800

Can anyone recommend a reliable, reasonably priced handyman in the Bay Area/East Bay? Need basic drywall repair and finishing, installation of a French Door, some painting, carpentry, etc. Nothing major.