Ask MetaFilter questions tagged with dealer

Best recovery from a bad car deal?

anadem — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:43:18 -0800

Just over two weeks ago a young friend bought used car from a dealer who's 80 miles away. The car came with serious engine problems. The dealer says they'll take it back for a refund but won't return the full price she paid. They say they'll keep their costs, but won't even discuss on the phone the amount they'll return. How best can she get all her money back? My friend paid with cash and check. When she found the repair would cost a bit more than the check she gave, she put a hold on the check. But the dealer has the pink slip, so she has no title to the car and the dealer is threatening repossession because of the hold on the check.

The deal included a three month guarantee of engine and drivetrain, but the engine problem is a bad timing belt which is not covered by the g'tee. And the guarantee company say they have no record of the guarantee she has (checking the serial number) perhaps because the dealer didn't register it, or maybe just because it takes more than a couple of weeks to go through.

What options does my friend have? This is in California. The dealer is Rush Motors in Fremont. Should she return the car then take the dealer to small claims court? Would standing in the street outside the dealer at the weekend with a suitable sign help them decide to give a full refund? Is a lawyer the best option?

Some background: I looked at the car ('92 VW Passat) with her before she bought it. The engine made a noise which Radwan (the salesman at Rush Motors) said was because a hydraulic adjuster on the timing chain needed pumping up. I suggested it might be timing belt noise but Radwan and his sidekick insisted the car had a timing chain not a belt. Radwan said he'd get the adjuster fixed, and my friend went back two days later and bought the car (the noise was temporarily gone). The noise returned later that day, and she had the local VW dealer here identify the problem.

The car cost $5800 (I think) of which $4500 was paid in cash and $1300 as check. The repairs are estimated at $2300. My guess is (since these are such slimeballs) they will try to keep at least $1000 of her money, but maybe I'm unduly negative.

What should my counter offer for a used car be?

FairlyFarley — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 08:51:40 -0800

I'm in the middle of negotiating with a dealer for a used car. I need to know what a good counter offer would be and how many offers I should be expected to make. I know I want a used toyota tacoma truck. I found one locally on the internet. I really want to buy it, however I don't want to go into the dealer yet and get milked so I'm communicating with a salesman from the dealer through e-mail.

The truck was listed for $11,700. I sent an e-mail expressing my interest and also my findings that kelly blue book and edmunds list the value of the vehicle at $8,100 and $8,300 respectivly and that "this amout was closer to the amout of the load I've been approved for" without coming out and making an offer.

I have been approved for a loan for up to the whole asking price.

The dealer e-mailed me back saying they "taked with the boss" and will be willing to sell the vehicle for $10,800.

What would be a reasonable counter offer? And how many counter offers should I be expected to go through? Is there some magic percentage that they are allowed to go down? What's the lowest I can offer and still be taken seriously?

I want this truck, but I don't want to feel like I got a bad deal.

Car buying virgin!

KateHasQuestions — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:11:59 -0800

Buying a used car from a dealer - what questions should I ask, what should I ask about, and what deals should I insist on so I don't get cheated? I'm about to buy a car on my own for the first time. Out of all the ones I test drove I loved both the Toyota Matrix and the Pontiac Vibe. I liked them both equally and this isn't a question about which one I should choose, I'm not putting the year/mileage/price on here specifically for that reason. I am going to decide based on which dealership gives me a better deal. My next stop after knowing that I like how these 2 cars drive is to look around at the prices at the nearby dealerships are asking for (online as well as at the dealer) and try to get them to beat the other guy's price. Is that the correct next step?

Also,
- How much should I be willing to pay compared to the Kelly Blue Book values? $2000 less? $3000 less than kbb?
- Aside from buying from the dealer with the best price, what statements should I be saying in order to get them to lower the price? Stuff like "some of the buttons in the car are peeling and there's a scratch, I don't feel like it's in good enough condition to justify this price" or do I pretend I am not interested and walk away to get them to lower the price? All my friends are telling me to "play the game" and I've just never done anything like this, so any tips are appreciated!
- Is it worth having a male friend come along just so the salesman doesn't think he can take advantage of me as a girl? I feel like even going to get my car fixed I get different responses whether I'm alone or with a male friend.
- If I finance the car, does the dealer really get a bonus from the bank? If yes, how do I get them to reduce the price of the car for that amount?
- Do I need to know which bank I would use to finance it? What's a good interest rate now, in NYC/NJ?
- If I officially live in NY and I'm buying the car in NJ, anyone know which sales tax I pay? If I have to pay the NY one is it worth asking if the dealer would take the difference off the price of the car?

As you can see, I am clueless as this is my first experience, and out of the dealers I did talk to today, most of them were exactly the way I expected them to be - they seemed sleazy, like they were ready to take advantage of me and not listen to me and just talk over me. So any tips of how to talk to them and exactly what to say and do to get them to lower the price would be appreciated.

Negotiating a car price and dealer incentives

bluesky43 — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 21:30:33 -0800

This is an awesome askme on negotiating a new car price but not covered is when do dealer incentives come in? Working from the TMV price, should I negotiate the price with the incentives applied? or negotiate the price with the dealer and then assume that the dealer will apply any available incentives? Thanks.

is my potential housemate a drug dealer?

I like to eat meat — Wed, 08 Apr 2009 14:18:36 -0800

how can i determine if a potential housemate is a drug dealer? My friends and I found a potential roommate on Craigslist who seems really cool, but we we're worried that he may be a drug dealer - he claims to have "saved up a bunch of money" before coming here from some sort of freelance computer repair job, but I'm skeptical that anyone can make that much doing that, and he also works at a drug advocacy group of some kind. Not damning, but definitely enough to give me pause. I'm not morally opposed to drugs or anything, just worried about something crazy happening at the house.

Anyone have any good ideas on warning signs, or experience about whether his explanation for having all this money is plausible, or anything that we can ask him for as evidence one way or the other?

Would it be weird to just directly ask him? We really want to get this house and the pickings for housemates looks a bit slim, so I'm just seeing what the internets think (and also because I'm a little curious)

I know this is kind of a ridiculous question, so hilarious snark appreciated as well.

Got the loan...now what?

thatbrunette — Mon, 09 Mar 2009 17:37:40 -0800

So remember when I asked about getting a car loan? Well, I got one (yay!). Now I've been to a used car dealership and found the perfect car (yay!). Only that's not the end of the story... I laid out my budget restrictions to the dealership, and had a test drive with a great little car (Chevy Aveo). I was happy, they were happy, I went home to get my loan paperwork. By the time I came back, they were hemming and hawing and telling me that they simply couldn't sell the car for what they had told me and that I'd have to pay $1,000 more. Since I refuse to be strongarmed I told them I wouldn't be buying a car from them, and left.

Flash forward to now, when I have found another Aveo being sold by a private seller. The carfax report checks out, I'm going to test drive it this week. But I'm nervous to be buying from a person and not a licensed dealer... I already know that I love this make/model of car, that it's right in my budget, and that it will suit me best for what I'm looking for. Is there anything else I should ask in this situation, since it's private seller and not a dealer? Any warning signs or red flags to look for? What is the (if any) recourse I can take if this car breaks down a week after buying it?

Used Car Dealership near Providence

Murray M — Tue, 06 Jan 2009 06:56:47 -0800

Any used car dealerships--and particular dealers--near Providence, RI (or around) whom you would recommend? I'm looking for a Subaru Forester with around 50K miles.

questions on end-of-year car buying

schmoppa — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 07:50:38 -0800

A handful of year-end / bad-economy new-car-buying questions: 1. How much actual pressure do car dealers feel to sell 2008s by end of day 12/31? 2. How incented is a car salesperson to make a sale on a car on a different dealer's lot 15 miles away? 200 miles away in a different state? 3. Within a model line, how much does dealer flexibility on price vary with trim and feature levels? 4. How likely is a dealer to go for a price under invoice or dealer cost? For 1, I ask because there's this "Toyotathon" that expires 1/7/2009. If there was indeed pressure to sell by not just the end of the month, but the end of the year, why would it expire after the new year? Seems to be counter-productive if there actually is year-end pressure to clear inventories.

For 2, We're looking at 2 2008s, one 15 miles away from our local dealer, and another 200. One is the color she wants, the other is what I prefer. The one 200 miles away, obviously, comprises a fairly rare feature set (exterior/interior color combination, lack of navigation).

For 3, for this model there's three trim levels and all sorts of configurations of options. Should I make an offer based on the overall local availability of the model line, or adjust based on the trim and even major features availability?

For 4, at this stage, do you think they will be willing to go below invoice (digging into the holdback and wholesale financial reserve) or even dealer cost just to move the damn car off the lot?

I've read a few good posts here on Ask Metafilter, and taken the core advice to heart: do not negotiate on their terms. For the most part I have stayed behind the phone and several email accounts to probe pricing and availability...

Thanks!

Used car dealership misrepresentation and failure to honor warranty

prk14 — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 15:49:39 -0800

I bought a car from a used car lot on the 29th of May. Since then there have been a laundry list of defects discovered. What if any recourse do I have? I bought a 2001 Hyundai Elantra form a used car lot on the 29th of May. It came with a 3000 mile limited warranty and the dealer assured us teh car was in fine working condition.

The check engine light came on within 100 miles. I brought it into the dealer who said that there was nothing wrong with it and turned off the light.

The check engine light went back on within 20 miles off the lot. So I went back to the dealer second time. Again said nothing was wrong and switched off the check engine light. Again, it went back on within a few miles.

So I took the car to a local garage, the identified the problem as faulty input and output sensors around the transmission. I had them fix them but they could not find the rest of the problem. I then took the car to the Hyundai dealership (different from the used car dealership where I bought the car). They further identified the problem as a faulty thermostat (expressly covered under the warranty) and a faulty rear Catalytic converter (I'm not sure how they could pass emissions inspection with a faulty cat converter...).

More disturbing though, they found that an aftermarket front cat converter had been installed. The certified Hyundai Mechanic said he had never seen anything like it at it looked like the part was "homemade".

I believe that the dealership that we bought the car from has refused to honor they warranty despite multiple visits and phone calls, purposefully turned off the check engine light to sell the car, and may have also misrepresented the ability of the car to pass emissions inspection at the time of sale since the catalytic converter is defective.

The hitch is that on the sales agreement there are all the boiler plate platitudes that say if sue them I'm liable for their attorney's fees and that they cannot be held liable for anything, blah blah blah.

I plan on filing complaints with the BBB, State AG's office and Utah Motor Vehicle Enforcement Division. My question is this: is to worth it to hire an attorney to file an action against their bond? Should I look at small claims court? (The car only cost 5k) or do the boilerplate sales agreements make a case against dealers extremely difficult?

Thanks!

Bike bike bike bike. Help!

actionpact — Thu, 03 Jul 2008 15:29:20 -0800

Deciding between two Trek bikes for someone who's never rode a bike before. Need your help, hivemind! I asked this question a while ago, which was super-helpful at the time. My birthday just came and went on Tuesday, and I got surprised with the awesomest gift ever: a bike! Well, the promise of one anyway. We went to our LBS and I explained that apart from riding a tricycle, I'm clueless about what I need. The guy we spoke to was really helpful, told me how the brakes work, how you usually get on/off a bike, and helped me figure out what sort of bike I need (comfort, with the potential of doing commuting, mostly on roads but I'd like the option to go on rougher ground when needed, low-step design so I can wear skirts). His suggestion was to go for a Trek, specifically he recommended the Navigator 2.0-- which seems like a nice relatively lightweight sturdy bike with fat tires (and pretty decently priced!). He suggested also the Electra Townies if I wanted a flat foot design, but seeing them in person kind of set me against them (though I still like the Amsterdams).

After flipping through the brochure I also got interested in their Hybrids, specifically the 7100 and 7200 . At another branch of this store, we spotted a 7200 and I have a date to try it and the Navigator out on Saturday. But my concern is since I don't know how to ride a bike that I won't really get which is better, or better suited for me. I know the hybrids are better for going faster because they have thinner tires (and I think a little bigger?). Beyond that though, I don't know. I do know I like the look of the hybrid bikes better, they are more aesthetically pleasing to me. But the Navigators aren't ugly, so even if I wind up with that I won't be that sad, because hey, it's a bike! And I'm really excited to have a bike.

So my question is: which bike is probably better for me? Hybrid or Navigator? Of course I know I'll have to ride it/test it to know what works for me, but if you own one of them and love them, I want to hear why it was the best for you. Or if you're a bike expert, I want to know your take! I'll be asking the people at the bike shop more in depth on Saturday, but I'm just trying to do my research while I'm at it. Our limit is around $500-- the Navi's around $330, the 7100's $420, and the 7200's $450. Between the two hybrids, I'd probably just pay the extra $30, but that's a big difference between hybrid and Navigator, so I don't know if you get what you pay for on this sort of thing.

I also don't really know the benefit of going for the 7100 vs the 7200 vs the other models they have-- when I asked the people at the shops, they basically just said the difference was different components. Since I'm not a bike jock I have no idea what makes one component awesome, y'know? Will I really miss the top of the line bike derailleur? Or can I get the cheaper model and still feel pretty happy with the type of bike?

Some pertinent details: 25, girl, 5'10" so I'm looking at the 16/16.5" models, trying to minimize back pain, and somewhat of a bony butt (so i don't know if the saddles are going to be an issue?).

Other questions that may be dumb, but I'm asking 'em:
1) Are prices at bike shops firm? Ours are below the suggested price but I don't know if you're supposed to haggle or something.
2) I like the hybrids in the light peach/green colors, but the 7200 I spotted was black. There's one more branch I'm going to check out, but is it expected that the bike you buy is the one they have in the shop? This is pure aesthetic reasoning here--I dunno whether it's common practice to ask to order a bike color when they already have a model in the shop.

Thanks all! Can't wait to be on two wheels!

How to become a Hino Trucks distributor

victorashul — Mon, 14 Apr 2008 00:07:46 -0800

Becoming an authorized Hino Trucks dealer/distributor in Europe What are the necessary steps toward becoming an authorized Hino dealer in Romania?

I'm interested more in the general steps of opening a new and used car/truck dealership in an European country which is also a member if the EU.

How much of an initial investment is it necessary, what licenses etc are required. What are the requirements for becoming a succesful dealership?

Any European car dealers with useful info about he matter, please chime in.

calling all ebay cell phone dealer information knower persons

B(oYo)BIES — Sun, 09 Mar 2008 16:49:14 -0800

So I just purchased a ' BRAND NEW HTC MOGUL W/ CLEAR ESN, FREE CAR CHARGER NIB!' from eBay, and now have a few questions about how these cell phone dealers work. 1 - Where are they getting their merchandise? "YOU ARE BIDDING ON A BRAND NEW HTC MOGUL NEVER BEEN TAKEN OUT FROM THE BOX." (granted it doesn't say anything about not being a referb)

2 - Does anybody know how much they might pay for, say the Mogul in the ad above, or how much profit they might be making on these? The last three of Moguls from this seller sold for $300, $305, and $324.99. Purchasing with a from Sprint w/contract would be $350 or $399, sans-contract $550.

3 - If, for some reason, I still have a temptation to try my hand at what they are doing after reading the feedback for q1 and q2, what else should I know?

How can you maintain your NASD licenses once leaving your firm?

lawstudent09 — Sat, 06 Oct 2007 09:55:34 -0800

NASD licenses (specifically series 7 & 63) requires company sponsorship to obtain. Once obtained, you need company sponsorship to maintain the licenses. Is there a company who will maintain your licenses for you while you are not working in the financial industry? Perhaps for a fee on top of the annual registration costs? I believe you have two years from separation with your employer to obtain a new sponsor.

What can I do?

C17H19NO3 — Mon, 01 Oct 2007 07:50:12 -0800

I bought a car recently and the seller claimed "This vehicle looks new, with no signs of prior damage. There is no damage present on this vehicle." Turns out the vehicle had been wrecked. Do I have any legal options here or am I screwed? The vehicle was being serviced today and was also being inspected. The mechanic told me that the frame shows obvious signs of having been pulled, and that there are scrapes on the frame and other signs of damage that point to the vehicle having been in a crash. The front bumper isn't flush with the body panels, and one headlight looks newer than the other.

The car's Carfax history was clean, and since the vehicle was being sold in New Hampshire (I live in Vermont) I didn't feel that I really had the resources to have the vehicle checked over by a mechanic before purchasing.

The vehicle was posted on ebay motors and the vehicle description was written:

Thank you for your interest and I look forward to hearing from you. Although you will not be this vehicles first owner, it will make you a fabulous vehicle. The mileage represented is the actual mileage of this vehicle. Yes, a smoker owned this vehicle, owner was very conscientious and careful when smoking. This vehicle looks new, with no signs of prior damage. There is no damage present on this vehicle. We looked all over and found no door dings, obviously this vehicle is one of those vehicles you always see parked deep in the parking lots. Although this vehicle was not garage-kept, it is in great condition. This vehicle shifts like a vehicle was meant to shift, perfect. This vehicle runs like the engine was very well taken care of. The vehicle's electric is working perfectly. This vehicle is perfectly sound, no known defects. There is a clean exterior on this vehicle. This is a clean vehicle with a beautiful interior. You should feel good with at least 75% of tire wear left on this set of rubber.

The seller also claimed:

This vehicle is being sold as is, where is with no warranty, expressed written or implied. The seller shall not be responsible for the correct description, authenticity, genuineness, or defects herein, and makes no warranty in connection therewith. No allowance or set aside will be made on account of any incorrectness, imperfection, defect or damage. Any descriptions or representations are for identification purposes only and are not to be construed as a warranty of any type. It is the responsibility of the buyer to have thoroughly inspected the vehicle, and to have satisfied himself or herself as to the condition and value and to bid based upon that judgement solely. The seller shall and will make every reasonable effort to disclose any known defects associated with this vehicle at the buyer's request prior to the close of sale. Seller assumes no responsibility for any repairs regardless of any oral statements about the vehicle.

The seller is a dealer, FWIW.

Am I screwed here or is there something that can be done?

The dealer won't deal!

racingjs — Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:22:28 -0800

All the Toyota dealers in my region (Quebec/Canada) have a no haggling policy. The salesman just gives you the price from their webside and that's it. Anyone managed to get them to lower their price? Are they more flexible by the end of the month?

Was I born every minute, too?

metaculpa — Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:57:49 -0800

Buying a used car from a dealer who bought it at an auction - and he doesn't have the title. Heya,

I'm buying a used car from a dealer who bought it at a dealer auction. I've had the car checked out mechanically and whatnot, and I'm comfortable with that side of things. The title is "in transit" from the owner, and so the dealer doesn't have it. He says he'll complete a temporary registration in the meantime, and pass on the title when it comes.

This seems a little weird to me, but I havn't bought a car this way before. Thoughts? Preferably quick thoughts?

Thanks!

My kingdom for a horse: Trustworthy SoCal car dealers/mechanics

lalochezia — Tue, 12 Jun 2007 08:14:34 -0800

Buying-a-used-Car in SoCal-filter : I'm looking for good used car dealerships in the Pomona / Inland Empire / greater LA area. Also, for good independent mechanics to examine a prospective used car. Also: Examples of dealers/mechanics to avoid and general advice. I'm looking to buy a newer-than-2001 used car for 10-13k* at the end of July near to Pomona/Claremont, CA. I'm happy to go further afield to buy, but the nearer the better.

Does anyone have (or know of) any good / bad experiences with a particular dealership? Reputations of said dealers?

Bonus if you or someone you know bought a car in the last 3 months and had a good (or bad) interaction with a particular salesman / F&I office / post-dealer experience.

After I test drive the car, I'd like to get it examined by a mechanic to make sure it's kosher. Suggestions in the Pomona / Claremont / inland-empire areas? What's the going rate for an examination? Any joy in persuading/not persuading dealers to let you have the car examined?

Any other advice on buying a used car in SoCal gratefully received.

* I'm currently narrowing my choices from the standard Accords, Civics, and their import clones (nissan, mitsubishi hyundai, etc), as well as thinking about off-the wall cars like the Scion xB, VW cabriolet, Mitsubishi Eclipse Spider, Toyota Matrix and some others. Criteria: reliable, automatic, economical, 4-seater commuter car, fun. Any advice on these would be appreciated too!

Auto Dealership Photo Inventory Workflow?

spock — Sat, 17 Mar 2007 13:12:18 -0800

Anyone with knowledge/experience in putting auto dealership inventory online (photos, VIN scanners, ect.)? I have a several dealerships interested in outsourcing this job to me, but I want to do it in the least time-consuming way possible. I'll consider third-party solutions, but don't know if I'll be able to afford them. If you are in the business yourself, I'd be interested in any pricing info you'd like to share (how much to charge the dealership). This would be a sideline business for me. Thanks in advance for any info!

Money back from a used-car dealer?

torticat — Thu, 02 Nov 2006 20:53:47 -0800

How to scare a used-car dealer? Older and wiser now and all that, but we still have a problem car on our hands. A Honda dealer sold us a used six-passenger Kia Sedona saying it seated seven. The car had no third-row seat when we got it, but the dealer gave us a "we owe" notice saying they would provide the seat.

About six weeks later, the dealer put in two rear seats (from GM, not Kia). Clearly the seats are supposed to fit right next to each other because there is a middle seatbelt. However, the way they fit in the Kia, there's an inch-and-a-half gap between them which the seventh passenger has to straddle. The Honda dealer insists they've fulfilled their pledge to provide the back seat.

So I investigated at a Kia dealer and found out the car is actually a six-passenger vehicle and that a back bench seat seating three is not available for that model.

We want our money back from the Honda dealer (we actually need a seven-passenger car). I've talked to an attorney and am meeting with him in a couple days to discuss further. However, we'd rather avoid the hassle and expense of legal action if possible. We are going to go back to Honda, tell them we know they sold a six-passenger vehicle as a seven, and ask for a refund. We will threaten (and carry through with) legal action if they don't comply.

My question is, what other groups or organizations should we threaten to report them to? What gets a used-car dealer's attention? This problem has taken up a huge amount of time over the past two months. How do we make the most of this confrontation before taking the matter to an attorney? We paid cash for the car, if that matters.

Oh and we are not interested in a trade with this dealer. In one conversation, the Honda salesman offered to take back the Kia, in trade, for $2000 less than we paid for it two months ago. Later he backed down on that but then would not negotiate a penny on the new sale (which had a price almost double what the Kia cost). We're done with this dealer and just want our money back.

DealorNoDealFilter: 1985 Porsche 944 for $6.5k?

vanoakenfold — Sat, 16 Sep 2006 11:47:39 -0800

Without knowing any drivetrain/mechanical details other than what you could see from the exterior (details within) and that it last passed inspection in April 2006, would you buy a bright red 1985 Porsche 944 for $6500? I am debating about buying this sucker, just for the resale value, possibly even parting it out. Even if I could make back exactly $6500 through various means, I'd consider it worth the hassle even for bragging rights of having owned a Porsche at one time and the pictures to prove it.

I don't know anything about the drivetrain or mechanical aspects, but as I said it passed inspection this past April. The body is in excellent condition with 2 or 3 tiny hail dings on the hood, a 1/4" poked-in hole on the barely noticeable running-board thing along the passenger side, decent enough interior with no dash cracks that I can tell, nice window seals, original wheels and nice tires, nothing particularly unusual when checking out underneath.

Based solely on the above information, and that the owner (private seller) is moving soon and doesn't want to tow it, would you plop down $6500 for it outright (I've got the cash)? I don't even know how to drive a standard, but my brother will teach me, and my father has agreed to test drive it for me. Barring that future information, what do you say? What would be the max you'd put down for it, with the purposes of getting your money back by turning around to sell it again for profit?

Reputable Asian Ball-Jointed Doll Vendor?

vanoakenfold — Tue, 09 May 2006 08:48:58 -0800

Asian Ball Jointed Dolls Filter -- Can you recommend a reputable American seller/dealer, and what has been your experience with them (the vendor)? It seems like the only ones I can find are foreign companies and I'd rather buy from someplace stateside if I can, unless I'm confident enough in them from recommendations.. Only just today I came across a couple of livejournal entries when surfing toothpaste that had people making fiction shorts with these dolls, posing in different ways to act out comic-like panels with a caption. I found Gigglegeek.dk that has loads of sites to buy from, but pretty much all of them look foreign and I don't know one from the other as far as reliability.

In addition (although the recommendation is what I'm really after) -- How expensive would you say they are generally? I'd like to get one just to set on my desk. Is it possible to get customized eyes? I'd rather have one with cat-slit eyes than the regular kind.

Do poker dealers pay to work?

Ugh — Sun, 19 Jun 2005 23:13:14 -0800

When I was at the Indian casino tonight, the dealer mentioned that he had to pay the casino to work there. Was this BS or standard casino procedure? He couldn't go into much detail but after one of the players at the table tipped him, he said something along the lines of him having to pay the casino a set amount to work each night, and then he was allowed to keep the tips. I honestly do not understand how he could make a living this way because the dealers I saw were averaging about $1 to $3 in tips an hour. I've heard of exotic dancers having to pay high-end clubs in order to dance there, but I didn't know this happened in casinos as well. This was at a $4/$8 limit hold em game if that matters. Was he totally BSing in order to get more tips?

What are the best new or used car dealerships in Atlanta?

jpburns — Fri, 19 Nov 2004 04:52:04 -0800

My sister-in-law is looking for a low-priced new or used car, probably a Toyota, but she's also looking at a Kia or a Hyundai. We're in the metro Atlanta area [MI]... and we're looking for good online resources for finding out:
1/ Customer satisfaction for models/makes.
2/ Local dealer ratings.
3/ Any other useful resources?

Thanks