Ask MetaFilter questions tagged with car and buying

Knife catching isn't just for real estate

MrMulan — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 05:59:04 -0800

How can I increase my chances of buying a new car below dealer cost? Would you get an additional discount if you paid cash in full? There are many articles on how to negotiate a good deal for a new car which usually involves offering slightly above dealer invoice.

I am trying to increase my chances of scoring a new car that has become a sunk cost to the dealer.

Some reasons I am choosing new over used:
-It is an apples to apples comparison once you have the configuration you want.
-It is easier to weed and screen dealers via email, as there is no reason to have to come in to the showroom
-There is a chance of getting a sunk cost car for about the same price of a used car.

I am looking for Hondas or Toyotas, preferrably top of the line Rav4s and CRV, but not opposed to sedans or other brands.
I had an offer of $27k for an Honda CRV EX-l w/Nav, and I wanted $25
I also had an offer for the above without Nav for $25k

These offers came two hours of very frustrating blah blah blah from the dealer.

I know the cash for clunkers program may have an effect.
I plan to have financing lined up with my own bank.
I plan on doing all negotiations through email.
I am in the New York area, so there are tons of dealers.

As always, thank you in advance.

Car Rebate, Part Deux

Elsie — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 14:51:58 -0800

What Next on Not Receiving Customer Cash-Back Car Rebate? To recap a bit. A car salesman drew up a Bill of Sale with no reference to a customer cash-back rebate running the month I bought my new car. He did not give me any other paperwork regarding any rebate. The word "rebate" never came up in the negotiations for buying the car for cash. I signed the Bill of Sale, drove the car away, registered it using that Bill of Sale, and put on 1000 miles on the car. Two weeks later, got an unexpected cell call from the sales guy saying I needed to sign new paperwork "that wouldn't affect me in any way."

A backdated Bill of Sale arrived showing the same bottom line as the first Bill of Sale. However, the backdated one now showed the rebate and a rejiggering of figures to account for the rebate. Also included was a document they want me to sign with a highlight next to a signature line saying I would turn over the rebate to the dealer. I sent the backdated unsigned second Bill of Sale to the manufacturer. I signed the rebate document asking that the rebated come to me and X-ed out the yellow highlighted other signature line. In a cover letter, I explained what I explained here.

Today I get an e-mail from the manufacturer trying to convince me the rebate was "accounted for" in the original Bill of Sale (the no-rebate-mentioned version) that I had signed the day I bought the car. The Customer Relations person tried to tell me that the second Bill of Sale was essentially "the same." (even though that version clearly shows the rebate).

Am I correct in assuming my original, signed Bill of Sale is legally binding and that I am entitled to this Customer Cash-back Rebate? And, if so, how do I get it?

How to buy a car from a person

exceptinsects — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 22:26:59 -0800

I am looking to buy a used car for cash from a local (CA) private party, not a dealer. What do I need to know? I am mainly looking on Craigslist, but other suggestions are welcome. I'm looking for a Toyota Echo, if it matters.

So...what should I look out for in terms of scams? (I am already aware of things like shipping cars from far away, etc.) I will of course get it checked by a mechanic but what else should I be aware of?

How should I actually pay for it? Certified check? Giant wad of cash? Goats? I'm expecting it to be in the $5k range.

I am also going to be selling my old car, which is a 1997 Corolla in "fair" condition. Is it better to try to sell it myself, or should I go to Carmax? If I do sell it myself, how should I ask for payment?

Didn't Get Car Rebate

Elsie — Sat, 18 Jul 2009 20:10:30 -0800

Can I Still Get a Cash-Back Car Rebate After Buying a Car? I negotiated and purchased a car for cash without knowing the car company was offering $750 rebate to customers who paid cash for that model. The sales guy never mentioned any rebates in all our negotiations. Two weeks after getting the car, registering it, driving, etc. I just got a confused call from salesperson yesterday saying I needed to re-sign some papers--nothing that affected me, etc. I couldn't make heads or tails of what this "accounting error" was about. It was inconvenient to talk, so I ask the guy to e-mail me the details. Herewith:

There was a small accounting error on our behalf resulting in a couple of documents needing to be resigned. Basically, there are 2 type of cash back from the manufacturer. One is dealer cash which is given to the dealer to use at their discretion and there is customer cash which is given to the customer to use at their discretion. We showed it as dealer cash when it should have been done as customer cash. There is absolutely no affect to you whatsoever. All we need is for you to sign the documents I'll be sending to you and return them to us. Please enclose the signed documents along with the plate in the return envelope we gave you. Once we receive the plate, we'll return the $50 plate deposit fee. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks.

WTF? Despite having had what I thought was a decent deal and buying experience, something bothered me about this request. So I went to Cars101.com and discovered the manufacturer's rebate offer for cash buyers for my model. (Yes, I should've done more homework, but I'm in the middle of an overseas move and couldn't. Shouldn't I have gotten this manufacturer's rebate anyway?) Is there some way for me to get this money?

What's the best way to negotiate for a car through email?

mpls2 — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 11:49:13 -0800

What's the best way to negotiate for a new car using email? Note: I've never negotiated to buy a car before.

I've recently begun emailing local Honda dealers for quotes on the model I want, and the responses have been uneven. My basic email is:

"Could you please give me a quote on X car?"

or

"I have a quote from another dealer for $X; can you go lower than that?"

A couple of dealers have flat out not responded, or have responded without actually giving a quote. This surprises me, given how aggressive the auto sales market is, and especially considering that this is a buyer's market. Are these guys just idiots?

Any advice on how I could improve my chances of getting the best deal?

Thank you

Car buying in a recession

Joh — Fri, 19 Dec 2008 14:09:32 -0800

Buying a new car considering the current US economy. Have the rules changed? So, I am in the market for a new car. I love my old car, but sadly I need to sell it for something with a little more space in the rear seat, so we can fit two kid car seats.

I won't be using credit, I will be paying cash, so I don't need to worry about getting a loan from the dealer. The only exception to that is if I decide to buy something brand new, from a dealer that is offering ridiculously low interest rates, like 1% or less - that's such a good offer it's better to take it up and keep the cash in a savings account! I know some manufacturers are offering these rates, so that's a consideration.

I was originally operating under the premise of all the advice I have heard before about going into the dealer at the end of the month (or even better, Dec 31st) because salespeople want to make up their numbers for the end of month (or year) and will be more willing to cut a deal. I am wondering if really this is irrelevant now, and I don't need to hurry and buy the car soon. I am in no rush, the deadline for the new car is May next year, so I can take my time and find the best car/deal for me if this end of year rule is moot in the current economy.

Second question, is it fair to assume that if I were to buy a new car (am considering 1 year old cars and new ones) that I would get the best deal if I buy a new 08 car off the lot? Are dealers likely to be in a position where they are more keen to sell an 08 new car because they are likely paying finance on it to the manufacturer, whereas a 1 year old car on the lot they might have got on trade-in and own outright?

I am also re-considering the idea of trading in. I know that you always get less to trade in your car at the dealer, but I was willing to take that hit for the convenience of getting rid of it without the hassle of a private party sale. I'm thinking that in the current economy dealers just don't want your old car, and therefore will offer me a REALLY crappy price, rather than a regular crappy trade-in price. Would it be better if I was buying the same make of car as I am trading in, or make no difference?

WTB Wheels, Not Enough $$$ On Hand

BeerFilter — Fri, 17 Oct 2008 12:06:11 -0800

Are individuals selling used cars frequently willing to work with a purchaser with regard to a payment plan or are they really expecting the full asking price all at once? I need to buy a used car soon. I have a job but I don't have a lot of money saved up.

For instance, there's a nice-looking used car for sale on my ride home from work. The writing on the window says $2700. I don't have $2700 right now. I could put $1000 in the seller's hand right now, but it'd probably take me 6 weeks to earn up the rest. I could pay the rest out over say, a couple months.

FWIW, this is the 3rd used car for sale I've seen sitting in front of this house in the last couple months, suggesting this person liquidating his personal fleet. I bring this up because maybe this could be an indicator of someone eager to make a deal? Someone who just wants to get rid of it as quickly as possible?

Of course everyone's different, and some sellers would be willing to work with me and some would not. I'm just wondering what the general expectation is when people sell their cars to other people, and whether I shouldn't bother looking for cars until I have more money saved up.

long distance car buying -- slightly paranoid and overeager buyer

TayBridge — Sat, 04 Oct 2008 23:47:09 -0800

After months and months of looking, I've finally found my dream car. The problem is, it's a few hundred miles away from me... and my trusted mechanic. Help me make this happen! I'm in Orange County. My dream car is in San Francisco. I really don't mind having an excuse to fly up there; in fact, I'm looking forward to making a weekend of it. The prospect of finally ending my search for a new car and getting a little vacation out of it to boot is proving irresistible. However, I want to make sure that in my excitement I don't end up buying a lemon.

I've talked to the seller (a private seller, not a dealer) and received satisfying answers to all my concerns. I've checked the carfax report, and it's clean. It's been smogged and is registered until next year. If it was in Southern CA, the next step would be to have my mechanic check it out. Since it isn't, is it ridiculous to imagine I'll be able to find a trustworthy mechanic in San Francisco who'll be able to check it out on a weekend on short notice? (Unfortunately, the weekend is the only time I'd be able to get away from work.) Is it better to try to inspect it myself? I'm no expert on cars, but would it be possible to learn enough in a week to be able to determine for myself whether it's fundamentally sound? If it is, I'd appreciate any books or websites you could recommend.

To those who've bought a car long distance-- are there any particular pitfalls you can think of? Am I crazy to go to all this trouble for this car, or should I wait (probably a few months, at least) until one pops up closer to where I live? The car itself isn't rare, but the particular combination of options the SF car has is.

This is my first time buying a car without a parent's help, so I apologize for being so naive / overeager / particular / paranoid, etc. Thank you, Ask MeFi.

KBB, NADA or Edmunds?

WizKid — Mon, 12 May 2008 08:19:30 -0800

KBB, NADA or Edmunds? Which one should I use when buying a car? I was looking at a used 1998 Honda Accord Ex (V4) with 92,000 miles from a personal seller and the asking price was $6500 and it has small cosmetic damages for which the Honda dealer has asked $400 to repair. So the total cost of the car would be $6900 for me.

When I checked the value of the car online I got the following figures.
NADA - $6925 (Clean Retail) (click here)
KBB - $5350 (Private Party - Good) (click here)
Edmunds - $5000 (Private Party) (click here)

He has determined the value of the car according to the NADA value, but from what I see it's not a valid estimate. I belive the KBB value $5350 is a more accurate estimate.

1) Why is these 3 values have such a variation for the same car?
2) What do you normally use in a private sale?
3) What do you normally use if buying from a dealer?
4) Anything else that you would like to tell me?

Help me pick a used car, econ majors!

slow graffiti — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 17:18:42 -0800

How do you determine the sweet spot between price and age/reliability when looking at used cars? I'm about to buy my first car on my own; the car I learned on and drove for five years belongs to my parents, and it's time to give it back. All I'm sure of at this point is that I want something small (I really like the Fit and the Yaris, but I've always heard it never makes good economic sense to buy new) and fuel efficient, probably foreign. My budget is potentially as much as $15K with about half of that available as cash for a down payment. Price and reliability are my only big concerns; I don't care much about names and looks if it gets me around and never fails. I think cars are pretty silly but necessary in my case, so I don't want to spend any more than I have to. Now I don't know how to narrow down my search any more, because that means I would have to be more specific about my budget and models and the kind of mileage I'm willing to accept. Is there a point that's definitely "too used" when looking at used cars, where reliability issues make the cost to drive similar to a more expensive, less used car over time? Basically, I know I want the lowest cost per month of ownership over the life of the car, so is there some rule of thumb that says a used car that costs about $X will give me that? What bar should I set for mileage? Nothing over 40K? 100K? You can assume that whatever I buy I will drive until it's totaled or develops annoying mechanical issues; I won't be trading up any time before 5 years, hopefully more like 10. Is there any scenario in which it would make sense to go for one of the cheap new hatchbacks instead of something used?

Help, I'll drown in all the options if I don't intelligently set some parameters! I'm in California if it matters. Specific model recommendations are appreciated, but I figured framing the question in terms of find a used car "sweet spot" is more useful.

flip down tailgate or bust!

Four Flavors — Thu, 03 Jan 2008 20:46:02 -0800

Is there a newish station wagon with a flip-down tailgate? The wife and I are looking to buy a station wagon or mini-SUV sized auto that has a flip-down tailgate, or one that opens sideways, like a door. This has been surprisingly difficult to find in recently-manufactured vehicles. Secondary desired features are: good gas mileage (Hybrid would be ok), AWD, <$20,000.

We're looking for this to transport our dog, who likes to chase things he shouldn't. Thus, the need for a back that we can block with our bodies or the gate itself. Plus we don't want to catch his tail when closing the gate either!

We don't mind new or used within ~10 years. Any recommendations with or without anecdotes are appreciated!

She just wants to pay cash for a new car.

ScarletPumpernickel — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 21:41:56 -0800

Please help -- How do you buy a new car in California for cash? Dealer has agreed to a cash deal, but at 11th hour, insists on signing a loan agreement?!? Help my cuz get this guy to close a cash deal. My cousin has saved up to buy a new car for cash in
SoCalifornia. She got the deal she wanted, and they knew
from the start that she was paying cash. So they should've
gotten a deal they can live with, too.

She pays by cashier's check, signs over the trade-in, signs
all the papers, then finally comes the sales agreement...

...and it's a loan agreement.

She declines, they insist. She reads, and the contract
says:

(a) customer can choose to pay cash. Sign this form, and
you're choosing to pay by credit;

(b) oral amendments are not binding, mutual written consent
only.

She declines, they insist, complete with lies and tactics.
Around and around they go. Finally, she leaves. She has a
paper trail on everything she's given them, so she feels she
can get it back with just some hassle. Most importantly,
she'd like to buy that car -- in cash.

What tactic/consumer law/shibboleth/ninja-finger-sign can
she use to get the deal closed without a loan?

P.S. -- In between claiming that it was State Law that she
sign a loan agreement, one of them offered to make it a
"zero-dollar loan." WTF?

Thanks in advance for prompt suggestions. Clock is ticking.

Does the Fit fit?

4ster — Wed, 08 Aug 2007 13:00:55 -0800

I am thinking of buying a Honda Fit, and I'm afraid I'm making a mistake. I am thinking about buying a new car. Currently, I own a 1999 Ford Escort with 125,000 miles on it that runs fine. My wife has a 2003 Ford Windstar that has about 92,000 (but only 50K on the transmission because it had to be replaced). We also have an elementary-aged child, and may adopt another in the future.

The Fit seems perfect. It is small and relatively inexpensive for a Honda. It has all that cool flippy seat stuff for creating room, and it has a hatchback, which I love.

The best out-the-door price (sans trade-in) I have been able to negotiate (online) is around $17,200. There are no incentives. Everyone (at least in central VA) is selling them at or slightly over MSRP because they can.

Here is the crux of my question:

1. I really hate the idea of buying a new car. I usually buy used, but of course, the last time, I got a lemon with a bad transmission (the one time I don't get the extended warranty).

2. I'm 6 feet tall. The Fit has much more room than the Escort, but its still a subcompact. I'm in my car a lot (alone) at work (I'm a pastor). Yet we need a car that the whole family can be comfy in, so we don't put all the miles on her car. I have driven the Fit, and for one person, it feels fine. I am just not sure about 3 or 4 in it at once.

3. At $17,000, I most likely can't afford an extended warranty, so I would really be trusting that Honda reliability.

What do you think? Am I getting to little car for that money? Fits sound so great, and get fantastic reviews, fly of dealers lots, and they start under $14,000, but they sure don't end there.

I hate buying cars, so any advice is appreciated.

Looking to buy an SUV as my first new car ever.

PetiePal — Sat, 26 May 2007 22:11:36 -0800

The time has come to buy a new car, and I've got a LOT of questions with regards to cost, options, leasing vs. buying, and haggling. Also recommendations on Toyota Highlanders and Mazda CX-9's... I currently own a 1996 Chevy Blazer. It's come to the point where it's starting to cost me way too much money a year to maintain (not to mention the gas consumption is horrendous). I've started looking at cars and I had two in mind before I even ventured out:

-Toyota Highlander or Highlander Hybrid (leaning away from hybrid since the savings doesn't really justify the extra cost)

-Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring

Basically here is what I'm looking for in my new car:

-Decent mileage city/highway
-Preferably an SUV (I'm 6'4" and smaller sedans don't fit me too well)
-Excellent track record, options, reliability etc
-Decent sound system
-Navigation system

The Highlander is a nice looking car, and has a positive recommendation from friends/family. My parents own a Lexus and an Acura SUV and are very happy with both. I've heard the Mazda CX-9 compared a lot to those cars.

So today I went to look at the CX-9 up close, just to get an idea of how I'd fit etc. I learned if I got one of those the sun/moon-roof would be a no go as it chops off about an inch of height above my head. Now when I went home I started pricing things out on Edmunds and autos.msn.com. I wanted to find out the MSRP, invoice and TMV prices for the options I wanted. This is where I started to get really confused.

On the Mazda I could get the following package: ncludes DVD navigation system, rearview camera, Smart Card with MAZDA Advanced Keyless Entry and Start system and power open and close rear hatch.

However this package REQUIRES that you get either a moonroof/Bose package or the rear-entertainment package. Now I don't want DVD screens in my headrests, nor do I want a moonroof. Is this a manufacturer ploy to jack the price up? Honestly I want the nav system, Bose audio and maybe an alarm system. The alarm system isn't available with the navigation package.

What's with all the restrictions? How customizable are cars? If I wanted a car with the above configuration and a certain color shouldn't I be able to get that somehow? Do they only make the cars in these preset configurations to bolster price?

The second half of my question is in regards to prices. I'm looking to buy over lease, simply because I don't believe in paying to only use something when you can be paying to own it. How much should expect to be able to haggle down from TMV etc? Should I go the fax-route with dealerships and see who offers me the best deal?

The final part of my question is simply in regards to the quality of Highlanders and CX-9. Advice greatly appreciated if you've owned either and can give me a personal review.

Thanks!

Inter State Car Buying Questions.

carthik — Thu, 24 May 2007 07:55:29 -0800

Buy a car in Florida for use in Georgia - How do I save on Title/Tax etc? Due to some weird conditions, I have to buy a used car in Florida for someone who live in Georgia.

How would the title+tag+registration+sales tax work out?

Do I have to transfer it to my name after buying it here in Florida, and then transfer it again to my friend's name in Georgia? I mean, I surely need a tag for the drive to Georgia, right? :)

Would this mean I end up paying taxes, and the fees for the title twice over?

What would be the cheapest way for me to buy the car here in Florida and for someone to use in Georgia?

Given:
1. I will pay cash for the car
2. The person the car is intended absolutely cannot buy the car in Georgia
3. I will be buying from a "private party"

Should I haggle for a new hybrid?

ontic — Thu, 21 Sep 2006 10:30:58 -0800

I've found a new Prius that I might be able to buy before the tax rebate gets chopped in half. Since it's a new, popular car, am I going to be paying full price no matter what or should I try my meager haggling skills? If the latter, what should I aim for and how should I go about it given the "next guy will pay full price" line I'll inevitably encounter? I can't imagine a question like this hasn't been asked before, but searching didn't turn it up. Perhaps I am an incompetent searcher.

Dog Wagon.

BrotherCaine — Thu, 14 Sep 2006 01:26:26 -0800

What new wagons/autos are dog friendly? My sister in law is looking for a car that will hold her, a (human) passenger, two (medium 40-50lb) dogs, and hopefully two dog crates. I recommended the Scion xB, but I don't actually know that it will do the job. Anyone who drives multiple dogs around care to comment? Vibe, Matrix, Focus, Mazda5, RAV4?

Determined to own a London Taxi

azuresunday — Fri, 01 Sep 2006 18:00:57 -0800

I've fallen in love with London Taxis, but I live in the US where they're almost nonexistent. Any ideas? Last week I saw a London taxi for sale in Seattle and took it for a test drive out of curiosity. The thing was rusted to hell because it'd been sitting for two years so I didn't buy it, but the test drive hooked me, and now I'm determined to own one. The only problem is, these cabs are next to impossible to find in the US or Canada. Do any of you other MeFites know of one for sale somewhere in N. America or the UK?

Should I buy a new car in Washington or Oregon?

matildaben — Fri, 17 Mar 2006 11:44:38 -0800

I'm thinking about buying a new car in the next year. I live in Seattle, Washington, where the sales tax is about 8.8%, but I visit Oregon frequently, where there is no sales tax. Would there be any drawbacks to buying the car in Oregon to avoid the sales tax? I would still register and insure it in Washington.

How do you (not) haggle when buying a car?

milkrate — Fri, 18 Feb 2005 15:12:20 -0800

I'm going to need to buy a car sometime soon and, from past experiences, I find this to be completely unpleasant. How can I make this easier or less painful? Have you used services that take care of negotiations/haggling? I do pretty exhaustive research before I buy almost anything, so I already know what I'd like to buy and I have a very good idea of how much I ought to/want to (and don't want to) be paying for it.

Over the past week or so, I've attempted to use services that aim to take the butt-puckeringly annoying activity of haggling out of purchasing a car while still getting a fair price, but I've found this to be pretty frustrating as well. Using Costco's program, the dealer quoted me a price that was basically the MSRP + destination charge for the car. Using different services, dealers have told me things that can be verified as either simple deceptions or plain lies.

Have you used a free or paid service, like CarBargains or CarsDirect, to get rid of the negotiating part of buying a car? How did it work out for you? Would you do it again? What other services are there for this? Alternatively, how do you avoid or deal with the haggling aspect of buying a car? Or do you just buy from no-haggle dealers?

What are the best new or used car dealerships in Atlanta?

jpburns — Fri, 19 Nov 2004 04:52:04 -0800

My sister-in-law is looking for a low-priced new or used car, probably a Toyota, but she's also looking at a Kia or a Hyundai. We're in the metro Atlanta area [MI]... and we're looking for good online resources for finding out:
1/ Customer satisfaction for models/makes.
2/ Local dealer ratings.
3/ Any other useful resources?

Thanks

$10 to $15k used car suggestions

skwm — Thu, 18 Mar 2004 11:05:55 -0800

Used car suggestions: I've got 10 to 15k to spend...[mi] I've got about 10 to 15k to spend on a used car. I'm thinking of a Volkswagen Golf, or a Honda Civic hatchback. I like their size, and I like the style as well.

I don't really know a thing about cars, so any other suggestions as to a decent used car - I'm looking for something from around 2001 or 2002, with less than 40k miles on it - would be appreciated. Features that are important to me are mileage, reliability, and I would like to have a sunroof, as well as a manual transmission.

What kind of car can I expect to get for this amount?

Also, I can pay about 60 to 70% of that in cash - what kind of discount can I expect? Is doing that even wise?