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	  <title>Ask MetaFilter questions tagged with autorepair</title>
      <link>http://ask.metafilter.com/tags/autorepair</link>
      <description>Questions tagged with 'autorepair' at Ask MetaFilter.</description>
	  <pubDate>Wed, 21 Oct 2009 09:39:41 -0800</pubDate> <lastBuildDate>Wed, 21 Oct 2009 09:39:41 -0800</lastBuildDate>

      <language>en-us</language>
	  <docs>http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss</docs>
	  <ttl>60</ttl>	  
	<item>
	<title>Can I pull ODB2 codes without a scanner?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/136038/Can%2DI%2Dpull%2DODB2%2Dcodes%2Dwithout%2Da%2Dscanner</link>	
	<description>Can I get ODB2 (ODBII) diagnostic codes out of my 2005 VW GTI without buying a code scanner? I understand some cars can display trouble codes on the odometer or by blinking the check engine light... though I think the blinking is only ODB1. &lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Do I really have to buy a scanner? If so, can you recommend a cheap one? &lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I&apos;m mechanically inclined, and interested in learning, but can&apos;t spend a fortune on this.</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2009:site.136038</guid>
	<pubDate>Wed, 21 Oct 2009 09:39:41 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>odb</category>
	<dc:creator>maniabug</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>Are dealer maintenance departments for suckers?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/123303/Are%2Ddealer%2Dmaintenance%2Ddepartments%2Dfor%2Dsuckers</link>	
	<description>Are auto dealer maintenance departments for suckers? I&apos;ve got a 2003 Honda Civic, and it needs a new timing belt, a new windshield and a new radio antenna. While it was under warranty, I had everything other than oil changes done at the local Honda dealer, but the warranty&apos;s now expired and I own it free and clear. &lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I&apos;m under the vague impression (from, among others, George Costanza) that dealers charge more for this kind of routine stuff than an independent repair shop would. Anything to this or is it just prejudice and superstition? Any reason - quality of workmanship or reliability, say - to go to a dealer instead of an indie? (I live in western Canada, if that matters at all, and I&apos;m pretty clueless when it comes to anything more complicated than checking the oil.)</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2009:site.123303</guid>
	<pubDate>Thu, 28 May 2009 19:33:31 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>cardealers</category>
	<category>ripoffs</category>
	<dc:creator>gompa</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>Do I own a car that truly cannot be repaired?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/120705/Do%2DI%2Down%2Da%2Dcar%2Dthat%2Dtruly%2Dcannot%2Dbe%2Drepaired</link>	
	<description>Is my Audi unrepairable?  I have a 2003 Audi A4 1.8T with a CVT (GGT) transmission that&apos;s messed up. When driving, the transmission &apos;slips&apos; and occasionally freaks out and pushes the engine to 7k rpm&apos;s.  Sometimes it drives fine, but when it freaks out... it &lt;i&gt;freaks out&lt;/i&gt; and therefore it&apos;s unreliable and undrivable.  My Audi dealership replaced the Transmission Control Module and this behavior still happens, so they say that the whole transmission needs to be replaced.  I called Aamco and they also told me that it needs replacement as there are not parts made for my transmission.  A call to an independent shop netted similar info.  &lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Is my Audi&apos;s transmission truly unrepairable?  Or am I getting the wrong information?  Is there anyone in the greater Los Angeles area that can repair it?  Do I have any other option than just waiting to pay it off before getting rid of it?  &lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
The transmission replacement price is $6500, and it seems absurd that a major car company would build and sell something that can&apos;t be repaired.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I wish I could simply sell it or scrap it, but I still owe three years payments on it...</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2009:site.120705</guid>
	<pubDate>Tue, 28 Apr 2009 10:23:05 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>audi</category>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>carrepair</category>
	<category>junkitorfixit</category>
	<category>transmission</category>
	<dc:creator>starscream</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>Seized O2 Sensor</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/116617/Seized%2DO2%2DSensor</link>	
	<description>I can&apos;t get the O2 sensor out of my car&apos;s engine, and I&apos;m starting to round off the bolt! I&apos;m trying to replace the upstream O2 sensor in my 1998 Honda Civic LX.  It sounded like a simple job, so of course something had to go wrong.  The sensor is pretty well seized up.  I&apos;m using one of those special O2 sensor sockets with the big cutout to let the wires out.  I&apos;m pushing the thing so hard it feels like the walls of the socket are flexing a bit, and I&apos;m starting to round off the bolt part of the O2 sensor.  Things I&apos;ve tried:&lt;br&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;&lt;br&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Running the engine for a while first to get it hot.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Striking the sensor (gently) with a hammer.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Spraying it with WD 40 and giving it plenty of time to work its way in.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Putting teflon tape around the bolt to help the socket get a better grip.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
So, how do I get this stupid O2 sensor out?  I don&apos;t want to destroy the old sensor (so I can put everything back the way it was, if something goes wrong), so I can&apos;t cut off parts of the sensor or drill anything out.  Any suggestions?</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2009:site.116617</guid>
	<pubDate>Thu, 12 Mar 2009 17:38:37 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>honda</category>
	<category>o2sensor</category>
	<category>oxygensensor</category>
	<category>resolved</category>
	<category>seized</category>
	<dc:creator>samw</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>Car trouble</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/80106/Car%2Dtrouble</link>	
	<description>Cars!  I don&apos;t want to go to the mechanic as a female and say, &quot;I have no idea what&apos;s wrong with my car!  Please replace half my engine and overcharge me ridiculous amounts!!&quot;  I&apos;m hoping to get some ideas on what might be wrong before I go... I have a 2002 PT Cruiser with 106,000 miles on it.  The engine light has come on.  There&apos;s a trick to display the error codes on the odometer; it&apos;s coming up with P1684 and P0551.  I&apos;ve looked them up online.  P1684 is &quot;The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts.&quot;  P0551 is &quot;The power steering switch may not be working.&quot;  Online forums seem to tell me to ignore P1684.  My battery hasn&apos;t been disconnected, my car has been starting just fine (even in the very cold weather).&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I tried to test my power steering switch as suggested in help forums.  I turned my wheel all the way to one side while parked and observed the idle RPMs.  They dropped when the wheel was turned, and while I was holding the wheel the idle came back up to normal.  It reset itself again when I straightened the wheel.  From what I&apos;ve read, this seems to indicate that the power steering switch is ok.  I checked the fluid and there seems to be the right amount.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
The car drives just fine.  Nothing seemed wrong with it until this afternoon.  The light on my dash behind one of my gauges has gone out.  That&apos;s it.  The car starts, doesn&apos;t stall or shudder, no funny noises or smells.  Just the dash light out, and the engine light error codes.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Any ideas?  I&apos;m just nervous about bringing in a car with nothing apparently wrong, and getting ripped off while they &quot;look for the problem&quot;.</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2008:site.80106</guid>
	<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2008 16:46:37 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>auto</category>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>cars</category>
	<category>enginelight</category>
	<dc:creator>veronitron</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>How to pass CA smog test without losing all my money?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/78583/How%2Dto%2Dpass%2DCA%2Dsmog%2Dtest%2Dwithout%2Dlosing%2Dall%2Dmy%2Dmoney</link>	
	<description>Help!  My car didn&apos;t pass the CA Smog Test and now the dealer wants $600 to bring it up to standard.  What can I do?! Okay so my car is a 2004 Toyota Matrix.  I originally bought it in VA, new in May of 2004.  I took it in to get smog tested the other day as a preliminary to getting it registered in CA.  It failed the smog test (specifically in the NO, as in Nitrogen+Oxygen, emissions area).  I brought it into the dealer yesterday and now they&apos;re telling me that its going to cost $600 bucks to add in some kind of Oxygen valve thingie.  I asked why the car was failing the test and he said it&apos;s because in Virginia emissions standards are much laxer than in California.  I don&apos;t have $600 to spend on this thing.  I&apos;m in a state of shock that a 2004 car isn&apos;t up to par on emissions standards.  What can I do?  I heard something about the state covering stuff like this for people with low incomes.  Help me hive mind, you&apos;re my only hope...</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2007:site.78583</guid>
	<pubDate>Thu, 13 Dec 2007 13:48:06 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>autoinfo</category>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>CADMV</category>
	<category>smog</category>
	<dc:creator>PostIronyIsNotaMyth</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>Am I getting ripped off paying for a car dent repair?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/72118/Am%2DI%2Dgetting%2Dripped%2Doff%2Dpaying%2Dfor%2Da%2Dcar%2Ddent%2Drepair</link>	
	<description>How much do a body shops typically charge for repairng small dents on cars? I rear ended a car while cycling today, chipped the corner of one of my front teeth, and made a small dent in the back of the guy&apos;s trunk. It&apos;s about 1/8 inch deep and 3/4 inch long. &lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
We exchange information, and he calls me a couple of hours later with a quote from his mechanic. $350.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Is that reasonable, or am I getting ripped off?</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2007:site.72118</guid>
	<pubDate>Fri, 21 Sep 2007 16:06:17 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>accident</category>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>bodyshop</category>
	<category>car</category>
	<category>dent</category>
	<category>paint</category>
	<category>repair</category>
	<dc:creator>BeaverTerror</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>Driving with only 3 brakes connected?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/47123/Driving%2Dwith%2Donly%2D3%2Dbrakes%2Dconnected</link>	
	<description>CarFilter: With regard to brakes... 3 out of 4 ain&apos;t bad? Due to a sheared off bolt in the caliper bracket on my 2001 Maxima, I am at a loss for how to proceed.  I was changing the rear brake pads and rotors.  Now I&apos;m able to put one side back together, but the other side, I&apos;m unable to mount the caliper with the bracket.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
The part I need won&apos;t arrive till Tuesday, but I need to use my car before then.  Is it possible to just finish one side and leave the other not hooked up?  That is, caliper secured down and still connected to the brake lines, but not mounted up over the rotor.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I&apos;m pretty sure 3 out of 4 brakes is safe, at least temporarily, because the rears do a lot less work than the fronts.  However, I&apos;m not sure if a mechanical problem would ensue from one side trying to compensate for the other, or having a caliper that&apos;s squeezing nothing but air.  Thoughts?&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;small&gt;Yes, I&apos;ve done everything I can to try to get the sheared bolt out, but it is basically one with the braket.&lt;/small&gt;   Thanks!!</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2006:site.47123</guid>
	<pubDate>Sat, 23 Sep 2006 17:48:11 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>brakecaliper</category>
	<category>brakes</category>
	<category>cars</category>
	<category>carssuck</category>
	<category>wtf</category>
	<dc:creator>knave</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>Is a universal oxygen sensor really universal?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/43379/Is%2Da%2Duniversal%2Doxygen%2Dsensor%2Dreally%2Duniversal</link>	
	<description>ScoobyFilter:  It&apos;s time to replace the oxygen sensors in my 2001 Subaru Outback.  &quot;Universal&quot; replacements run about half the cost of the OEM version.  Am I asking for trouble by taking the cheap way out? I drive a 2001 Outback VDC with the H6 engine.  It takes three O2 sensors -- two before and one after the catalytic converter.  They&apos;re all the four-wire type.  The car has 165,000 miles already so the less money spent the better.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Surfing the &apos;net suggests I have two options -- go with OEM-style sensors for about $100 each, or &quot;universal&quot; 4-wire sensors for under $50.  The OEM-style sensors come with a Subaru-style plug attached, while the universal ones require I reuse the existing connector and do some splicing.  I have the car&apos;s electrical diagrams and pinouts so that shouldn&apos;t be a problem.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Financially, universal sounds like the way to go but I&apos;m hesitant.  First, I read an article suggesting some cars require slightly different sensor heater currents and therefore shouldn&apos;t use universal sensors -- this was in an article about BMWs, though and I don&apos;t know if this applies to Subarus.  Also, universal sensors seem to be rarer than the OEM style (e.g., my local parts stores don&apos;t carry them.)  If AutoZone has no problem selling discount replacement brake pads, why don&apos;t they carry discount replacement O2 sensors?  I&apos;m worried that it might be because they&apos;re no good.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
So does anybody know if universal is good enough for my make/model, or do I have to spring for the OEM type?</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2006:site.43379</guid>
	<pubDate>Mon, 31 Jul 2006 16:55:12 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>o2sensor</category>
	<category>outback</category>
	<category>oxygensensor</category>
	<category>subaru</category>
	<dc:creator>Opposite George</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>DIY airbag replacement-- how tough?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/42671/DIY%2Dairbag%2Dreplacement%2Dhow%2Dtough</link>	
	<description>Has anyone here ever installed a salvaged airbag? How hard is it to do yourself? My car got bumped ludicrously lightly, the airbag deployed, and a new airbag is fantastically expensive while a salvaged one is cheap. But I would have to install it myself because local shops won&apos;t do it. The car is a volvo 940 1994. Kindly refrain from telling me that it compromises one&apos;s safety to use a salvaged airbag or to trust one&apos;s amateur self to do it. Because I don&apos;t care. If I have to drop 1000 bucks to replace the airbag in an old car I will wish myself dead anyway.</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2006:site.42671</guid>
	<pubDate>Fri, 21 Jul 2006 13:37:21 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>airbag</category>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>diy</category>
	<dc:creator>Mayor Peace Love and Unity</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>name this broken jeep part</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/20259/name%2Dthis%2Dbroken%2Djeep%2Dpart</link>	
	<description>I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 205k miles on it.  A few days ago I noticed some loud squeaking coming from the drivers wheel.  Name that part (photos inside). I took a look tonight and found the problem, though I don&apos;t know exactly what it is.   I notice the squeaking when I am turning and when it is cornering.  I am going to take it in ASAP, but would love to know what this is in advance of my visit (and how dangerous it is for me to drive to the garage tomorrow.  The broken side looks like this.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/kolar/21013006/&quot; title=&quot;Photo Sharing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://photos16.flickr.com/21013006_7b8783adb0_t.jpg&quot; width=&quot;75&quot; height=&quot;100&quot; alt=&quot;DSCN0699&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  and the good (passenger) side looks like this:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/kolar/21013003/&quot; title=&quot;Photo Sharing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://photos15.flickr.com/21013003_2f8c4fd06e_t.jpg&quot; width=&quot;75&quot; height=&quot;100&quot; alt=&quot;DSCN0692&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Thanks!</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2005:site.20259</guid>
	<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jun 2005 18:54:01 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>jeep</category>
	<category>wheel</category>
	<dc:creator>cgk</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>DIY auto repair guidance?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/13703/DIY%2Dauto%2Drepair%2Dguidance</link>	
	<description>I want to fix a couple of things on my car. However, looking under the hood causes to me to collapse with the vapors, forcing me to go purse shopping for an hour to mitigate the effects. Does anyone have an online walkthrough-to-fixin-up-your-car for guys like me? (Details inside.) I need to replace some sparkplugs and seal/replace a vacuum hose that&apos;s leaking. The garage I took it to wanted an arm and a leg (they took out a hacksaw and everything), and I&apos;ve been told that it&apos;d be super-cheap to fix all this stuff myself.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Plus I don&apos;t know shit about what I&apos;m doing. So, yeah, online help? It&apos;s a 99 VW Passat, if that helps to narrow down the search. I&apos;ve googled, but everything I find intimidates and confuses me.</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2005:site.13703</guid>
	<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jan 2005 10:29:10 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>auto</category>
	<category>automobile</category>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>car</category>
	<category>carrepair</category>
	<category>mechanics</category>
	<dc:creator>billybunny</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>Why did the windshield installer ask to work in my driveway rather than the street?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/11436/Why%2Ddid%2Dthe%2Dwindshield%2Dinstaller%2Dask%2Dto%2Dwork%2Din%2Dmy%2Ddriveway%2Drather%2Dthan%2Dthe%2Dstreet</link>	
	<description>I had a windshield installed by a company that comes to your home to do the job. The fellow who showed up to do it asked me if he could move the car from the street (plenty room) to my driveway, which I agreed to. &lt;br&gt;
Next day, my neighbor suggested that they do this in case the fellow gets injured, and since it happened on my driveway, I&apos;d have to pay his medical bills. Anyone knows anything about this possible set up?</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2004:site.11436</guid>
	<pubDate>Tue, 02 Nov 2004 14:44:55 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>cars</category>
	<category>legal</category>
	<category>windshields</category>
	<dc:creator>semmi</dc:creator>
	</item>
	<item>
	<title>How much does a catalytic converter cost?</title>
	<link>http://ask.metafilter.com/7478/How%2Dmuch%2Ddoes%2Da%2Dcatalytic%2Dconverter%2Dcost</link>	
	<description>The catalytic converter on my 97 Ford Escort blew out today, and I suspect it ruptured part of the exhaust works in front of the muffler. I can find out how much parts cost on my own, but I&apos;m not going to be doing the service myself, so could someone knowledgeable in the realm of automotive repair hazard a ballpark guesstimate as to how much this might cost me to fix? I just need a general idea so I can figure out how much blood to sell to pay for the repairs.</description>
	<guid isPermaLink="false">tag:ask.metafilter.com,2004:site.7478</guid>
	<pubDate>Mon, 24 May 2004 17:14:18 -0800</pubDate>
	<category>1997</category>
	<category>autorepair</category>
	<category>carrepair</category>
	<category>catalyticconverter</category>
	<category>cost</category>
	<category>estimate</category>
	<category>fordescort</category>
	<category>guesstimate</category>
	<category>muffler</category>
	<dc:creator>headspace</dc:creator>
	</item>
	
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