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August 8, 2008 7:27 PM Subscribe
My husband and I are traveling to Maui and the Big Island of Hawaii in a week. We only have 8 days between the two islands, and want to make the most of it. What should we do while we're there?
Also, we're interested in camping quite a bit, especially on Maui. I've researched information on camping there, but didn't come up with anything that really helped us make any decisions. If you've had any good (or bad) camping experiences there, we'd be happy to hear them.
As a side note, we're on a budget, so fancy hotels and expensive boat rides are out.
Also, we're interested in camping quite a bit, especially on Maui. I've researched information on camping there, but didn't come up with anything that really helped us make any decisions. If you've had any good (or bad) camping experiences there, we'd be happy to hear them.
As a side note, we're on a budget, so fancy hotels and expensive boat rides are out.
If you're willing to rent a car and are not greatly afraid of heights, the Road to Hana is really a lovely way to spend a day. The black sand beach is really unbelievably lovely, as is the whole drive, and remains one of my fondest memories of two weeks spent in Maui several years ago.
That said, my mother, who is deathly afraid of heights, hated the whole thing with a fiery passion and was terrified the whole time. So - proceed with caution if that's going to be a problem for you. Perhaps there is a lovely black sand beach somewhere else that does not require death-defying clifftop driving to get to.
posted by Stacey at 8:05 PM on August 8, 2008
That said, my mother, who is deathly afraid of heights, hated the whole thing with a fiery passion and was terrified the whole time. So - proceed with caution if that's going to be a problem for you. Perhaps there is a lovely black sand beach somewhere else that does not require death-defying clifftop driving to get to.
posted by Stacey at 8:05 PM on August 8, 2008
Ive only been to Maui once, but Ive lived on the Big Island for the past 12 years. So I'll give you some tips and let me know what other info you need.
The Big Island is a road trip waiting to happen. When friends visit, my favourite route to take is Kona-Volcano-Hilo-Mauna Kea-Waimea-Hawi-back to Kona.. It takes about 5 hours to drive around the island, so a few days would be fine.
In Kona- King Kamehameha Beach Hotel is one of the best budget options in town (there is a hostel, but Ive been wary of going to check it out cause Ive heard horror stories). In front of that hotel you can rent stand-up paddle boards from the Kona Boys, its easy and fun. If you want to surf they also run great lessons at Kahalu'u beach. Kona town is tiny. My favorite spot for lunch or dinner is Lava Java, its a mellow little resto near the Coconut Grove marketplace- great food, nice service, and a beautiful oceanfront view. At night, Oceans sports bar is an easygoing place for a beer (well, friday nights can get a little crazy) just stay away from Lulu's unless you like bar fights..
You can camp at one of two places at Volcano, great spots. I think you have to go around to Kalapana to see the lava at the moment, but you should go into the national park anyway to see the crater and the Thurston Lava Tube.. Oh, and Desert Rose Cafe in Ocean View (on the way to Volcano) has great food and vibe.
Im not a fan of Hilo, but Akaka Falls, Rainbow Falls and the historic part of town seem to be popular.. eh..
Go to Mauna Kea for sunset!!!! It is one of the most spectacular places on earth to watch the sun go down. Very romantic.. Afterward the visitors center runs free stargazing tours, just remember to dress warm and bring snacks.
Waimea is cowboy country town with some charm but usually just lots of rain. Hawi is a cute little cluster of streetside shops and cafes, a bit past Hawi is Pololu Valley, a gorgeous lookout point (or a steep trail down to the beach if you feel up to it)
Waipio Valley is the same, but it is a longer hike down to the beach.
Best beaches-
Mauna Kea Beach- 40 minutes north of Kona, long sandy protected beach
Makalawena- 25 min north of Kona, go down to Mahe'ula (Kona Coast State Park) and hike in (10 min), it is simply breathtaking.
Black Sand Beach near Ocean View- always lots of turtles, cold water, but nice..
mmm... what else?
posted by osloheart at 8:05 PM on August 8, 2008 [5 favorites]
The Big Island is a road trip waiting to happen. When friends visit, my favourite route to take is Kona-Volcano-Hilo-Mauna Kea-Waimea-Hawi-back to Kona.. It takes about 5 hours to drive around the island, so a few days would be fine.
In Kona- King Kamehameha Beach Hotel is one of the best budget options in town (there is a hostel, but Ive been wary of going to check it out cause Ive heard horror stories). In front of that hotel you can rent stand-up paddle boards from the Kona Boys, its easy and fun. If you want to surf they also run great lessons at Kahalu'u beach. Kona town is tiny. My favorite spot for lunch or dinner is Lava Java, its a mellow little resto near the Coconut Grove marketplace- great food, nice service, and a beautiful oceanfront view. At night, Oceans sports bar is an easygoing place for a beer (well, friday nights can get a little crazy) just stay away from Lulu's unless you like bar fights..
You can camp at one of two places at Volcano, great spots. I think you have to go around to Kalapana to see the lava at the moment, but you should go into the national park anyway to see the crater and the Thurston Lava Tube.. Oh, and Desert Rose Cafe in Ocean View (on the way to Volcano) has great food and vibe.
Im not a fan of Hilo, but Akaka Falls, Rainbow Falls and the historic part of town seem to be popular.. eh..
Go to Mauna Kea for sunset!!!! It is one of the most spectacular places on earth to watch the sun go down. Very romantic.. Afterward the visitors center runs free stargazing tours, just remember to dress warm and bring snacks.
Waimea is cowboy country town with some charm but usually just lots of rain. Hawi is a cute little cluster of streetside shops and cafes, a bit past Hawi is Pololu Valley, a gorgeous lookout point (or a steep trail down to the beach if you feel up to it)
Waipio Valley is the same, but it is a longer hike down to the beach.
Best beaches-
Mauna Kea Beach- 40 minutes north of Kona, long sandy protected beach
Makalawena- 25 min north of Kona, go down to Mahe'ula (Kona Coast State Park) and hike in (10 min), it is simply breathtaking.
Black Sand Beach near Ocean View- always lots of turtles, cold water, but nice..
mmm... what else?
posted by osloheart at 8:05 PM on August 8, 2008 [5 favorites]
Response by poster: Thanks SO MUCH you guys! The answers have been fantastic so far! Much better than anything that I've found on line so far...
posted by I_love_the_rain at 8:11 PM on August 8, 2008
posted by I_love_the_rain at 8:11 PM on August 8, 2008
Response by poster: osloheart...not sure what else! But your suggestions are great. There's nothing better than hearing this kind of advice from someone who really knows the territory! Thanks!
posted by I_love_the_rain at 8:12 PM on August 8, 2008
posted by I_love_the_rain at 8:12 PM on August 8, 2008
Hot ponds and natural steam saunas on the Big Island formed some of my best memories of my vacation there. I also agree that you should drive up Mauna Kea, as far as you can go - the part at the end should only be attempted with 4WD and most rental agencies prohibit it specifically, but the view is ridiculous. The stargazing is also incredible.
On the Big Island, one way to enforce that you see all the best stuff is to book a different B&B every night. Then you don't get stuck staying in some Disneyland-style hotel and actually see some non-beach sights.
You're going to have such a great time!
posted by crinklebat at 8:21 PM on August 8, 2008
On the Big Island, one way to enforce that you see all the best stuff is to book a different B&B every night. Then you don't get stuck staying in some Disneyland-style hotel and actually see some non-beach sights.
You're going to have such a great time!
posted by crinklebat at 8:21 PM on August 8, 2008
The earlier advice is all excellent, I'd like to add a few more thoughts.
Yes to Volcanoes National Park. You can camp directly in the park, with easy access to a bunch of trails. The lava flow has been visible and safe to hike to recently, so you definitely want to check that out. I would spend 1-2 days checking out the sights in the park, and I would base camp out of Namakani Paio (bring a tent!).
I normally recommend the Big Island/Maui Revealed books, but recent storms and earthquakes have literally destroyed many of the lesser-known (and lesser-maintained) trails, so I would play it safe and stick to the recommended trails.
I think you'd really like South Point on the Big Island. There's a Green Sand beach that you can hike to with parking and access near the outlook (ask for directions at the outlook on where to park, don't get tricked into paying to park in the public areas). There are several state beach parks in Ka'u that are almost always free of tourists that green sea turtles like to beach up on and hang out. In fact, if you're up for it, you can backpack to more isolated beaches via trails through the Volcano National Park (ask a ranger about this) and spend a night in Ka'u, which will be a perfect launching point for the next adventure, Kealakeuka Bay!
I would strongly recommend that you make a stop at a rental shop near Kealakekua Bay (Dolphin Bay? Captain Cook Point?) and rent kayaks for the day and make the short (and protected from the ocean currents) kayak trip along the coast to Captain Cook and do some snorkeling in the area. My sister did this earlier this summer and ended up getting to swim and hang out with a pod of dolphins (they don't call it Dolphin Bay for nothing!)
posted by onalark at 8:57 PM on August 8, 2008 [1 favorite]
Yes to Volcanoes National Park. You can camp directly in the park, with easy access to a bunch of trails. The lava flow has been visible and safe to hike to recently, so you definitely want to check that out. I would spend 1-2 days checking out the sights in the park, and I would base camp out of Namakani Paio (bring a tent!).
I normally recommend the Big Island/Maui Revealed books, but recent storms and earthquakes have literally destroyed many of the lesser-known (and lesser-maintained) trails, so I would play it safe and stick to the recommended trails.
I think you'd really like South Point on the Big Island. There's a Green Sand beach that you can hike to with parking and access near the outlook (ask for directions at the outlook on where to park, don't get tricked into paying to park in the public areas). There are several state beach parks in Ka'u that are almost always free of tourists that green sea turtles like to beach up on and hang out. In fact, if you're up for it, you can backpack to more isolated beaches via trails through the Volcano National Park (ask a ranger about this) and spend a night in Ka'u, which will be a perfect launching point for the next adventure, Kealakeuka Bay!
I would strongly recommend that you make a stop at a rental shop near Kealakekua Bay (Dolphin Bay? Captain Cook Point?) and rent kayaks for the day and make the short (and protected from the ocean currents) kayak trip along the coast to Captain Cook and do some snorkeling in the area. My sister did this earlier this summer and ended up getting to swim and hang out with a pod of dolphins (they don't call it Dolphin Bay for nothing!)
posted by onalark at 8:57 PM on August 8, 2008 [1 favorite]
I wasn't clear about 'sticking to recommended trails'. I mean you should talk to the locals in whatever area you are in and ask about conditions of trails, streams, and weather, and how it will affect your plans. Obviously, this is easy to do in Volcanoes National Park, which is why it gets a strong vote from me.
Oh, and if you get a chance to go up to the summit of Mauna Kea (you'll need an SUV rental from a place like Harper's), take it. The stargazing is the best in the world on clear nights and the sunsets are like God moving over the face of the Earth.
posted by onalark at 9:01 PM on August 8, 2008
Oh, and if you get a chance to go up to the summit of Mauna Kea (you'll need an SUV rental from a place like Harper's), take it. The stargazing is the best in the world on clear nights and the sunsets are like God moving over the face of the Earth.
posted by onalark at 9:01 PM on August 8, 2008
I've only been to Maui (and Kauai) so I'll help you with that one. You must, must, MUST go snorkeling in Maui. Pick up a copy of Maui Revealed, as it shows a bunch of great snorkel spots that are right off the beach. Snorkel gear can be rented for multiple days. Don't rent the cheapest stuff - it'll leak and you won't have fun.
I've had the best luck off of Makena Beach, just south of the Maui Prince hotel. See map here. You can park at the end of Makena Road (if you get there early enough). Go to the South (left) end of the beach, where there is a little rocky outcropping, and keep swimming south and a little bit out to sea, around the rocks. There is a HUGE reef here. We saw five different sea turtles in one day last time we were there. It's best early in the morning - starting about an hour after sunrise. Snorkeling has to be one of the best price/fun ratios anywhere.
I thought the Road to Hana was wonderful and free minus the gas. Keep in mind that the important thing is the journey and not the destination. There is (essentially) nothing in Hana itself. There are dozens and dozens of waterfalls and other scenic stops along the way and then the pools at Oheo Gulch at the end. Make sure to stop and get banana bread from the stand on the Kenae Peninsula along the way.
Haleakala volcano crater on Maui is incredible and also free minus the gas. People like to go super early for the sunrise, though I think this part is overrated. We rode horses into the crater, which was really cool. It sounds like you don't have the budget for that. Still, it's worth the drive to see the otherworldly landscape and hike down into the crater a bit.
If you can possibly afford it, do the West Maui and Molokai helicopter tour. It's one of the most amazing things I've ever done and worth every penny. Honokohau Falls and the Molokai Sea Cliffs are just breathtaking. We took Blue Hawaiian, though there are other companies.
Unless you're ready for some confrontation, I'd suggest staying away from Blue Pool in Maui.
posted by cnc at 10:44 PM on August 8, 2008
I've had the best luck off of Makena Beach, just south of the Maui Prince hotel. See map here. You can park at the end of Makena Road (if you get there early enough). Go to the South (left) end of the beach, where there is a little rocky outcropping, and keep swimming south and a little bit out to sea, around the rocks. There is a HUGE reef here. We saw five different sea turtles in one day last time we were there. It's best early in the morning - starting about an hour after sunrise. Snorkeling has to be one of the best price/fun ratios anywhere.
I thought the Road to Hana was wonderful and free minus the gas. Keep in mind that the important thing is the journey and not the destination. There is (essentially) nothing in Hana itself. There are dozens and dozens of waterfalls and other scenic stops along the way and then the pools at Oheo Gulch at the end. Make sure to stop and get banana bread from the stand on the Kenae Peninsula along the way.
Haleakala volcano crater on Maui is incredible and also free minus the gas. People like to go super early for the sunrise, though I think this part is overrated. We rode horses into the crater, which was really cool. It sounds like you don't have the budget for that. Still, it's worth the drive to see the otherworldly landscape and hike down into the crater a bit.
If you can possibly afford it, do the West Maui and Molokai helicopter tour. It's one of the most amazing things I've ever done and worth every penny. Honokohau Falls and the Molokai Sea Cliffs are just breathtaking. We took Blue Hawaiian, though there are other companies.
Unless you're ready for some confrontation, I'd suggest staying away from Blue Pool in Maui.
posted by cnc at 10:44 PM on August 8, 2008
I've been to Maui 3 times in the past 10 years, so here's what I found fun:
1) Driving up Haleakula at night. The stars on display were FUCKING AMAZING. The early-morning view of the island from 10,000' up is also kinda special too.
2) Driving to Hana the back way (from the South). The maps say the road is closed to rental cars but the dirt section wasn't that bad (cars are built to take potholes, and there were no actual potholes, 'course this was ~10 years ago). The Maui southern shore is quite desolate and peaceful. There was a old-time general store at the halfway point to stop & get something to drink. I'd like to work there someday.
3) Big Beach south of Makena. This is, I gathered, where the locals go to hit the beach. The isolated beach to the left is apparently CO, too bad google's airplane pic doesn't have the zoom!
4) Hiking the Ahihi Kinau nature preserve & La Perouse Bay. La Perouse Bay is the end of the line as far as driving goes on Maui south of Kihei. No more houses, just the remnant of the Kings Highway and some nifty little coves to find and commune with nature. This cove (I think they call it "The Aquarium") is my favorite spot on the island. It's so good that I hesitate posting it here. I actually found it the hard way, hiking the half-mile over trail-less broken lava field from what is called "The Fishbowl" (the snorkelling spot the hotels send their more adventurous guests to). Ah shit, upon further research, I see this is closed from August 1 for at least the next two years. Guess I won't be going to Maui any time soon!
Well, if you can't do 4) the next best is go up to the north part of the island past Kapalua. Honokahua Bay is very nice when the sun is out, and the drive around to Kahului is ultra-scenic.
posted by yort at 1:23 AM on August 9, 2008
1) Driving up Haleakula at night. The stars on display were FUCKING AMAZING. The early-morning view of the island from 10,000' up is also kinda special too.
2) Driving to Hana the back way (from the South). The maps say the road is closed to rental cars but the dirt section wasn't that bad (cars are built to take potholes, and there were no actual potholes, 'course this was ~10 years ago). The Maui southern shore is quite desolate and peaceful. There was a old-time general store at the halfway point to stop & get something to drink. I'd like to work there someday.
3) Big Beach south of Makena. This is, I gathered, where the locals go to hit the beach. The isolated beach to the left is apparently CO, too bad google's airplane pic doesn't have the zoom!
4) Hiking the Ahihi Kinau nature preserve & La Perouse Bay. La Perouse Bay is the end of the line as far as driving goes on Maui south of Kihei. No more houses, just the remnant of the Kings Highway and some nifty little coves to find and commune with nature. This cove (I think they call it "The Aquarium") is my favorite spot on the island. It's so good that I hesitate posting it here. I actually found it the hard way, hiking the half-mile over trail-less broken lava field from what is called "The Fishbowl" (the snorkelling spot the hotels send their more adventurous guests to). Ah shit, upon further research, I see this is closed from August 1 for at least the next two years. Guess I won't be going to Maui any time soon!
Well, if you can't do 4) the next best is go up to the north part of the island past Kapalua. Honokahua Bay is very nice when the sun is out, and the drive around to Kahului is ultra-scenic.
posted by yort at 1:23 AM on August 9, 2008
(to be clear, La Perouse Bay and points south is still open and is worth the half-day to get there and back)
posted by yort at 1:27 AM on August 9, 2008
posted by yort at 1:27 AM on August 9, 2008
To me, Maui is all about Haleakala. My third time in Maui, earlier this year, I finally got to hike all the way down into the crater, which had been my dream since my first time in Maui, 18 years ago. This was a half-day hike (sunrise til about noon) and I didn't get to hike all the trails (because I only had from sunrise til about noon). It was spectacular. The terrain changed from desert at the start to tropical rain forest where I exited.
There is also camping in the crater, and there are cabins you can rent.
So, there's that, if you're interested in hiking. :) MeFi mail me if you'd like more info!
posted by iguanapolitico at 8:35 AM on August 9, 2008
There is also camping in the crater, and there are cabins you can rent.
So, there's that, if you're interested in hiking. :) MeFi mail me if you'd like more info!
posted by iguanapolitico at 8:35 AM on August 9, 2008
For the Big Island, here is what I wrote about Volcano National Park. I still highly recommend the place.
posted by mmascolino at 3:25 PM on August 9, 2008
posted by mmascolino at 3:25 PM on August 9, 2008
For Maui, doing the road to Hana drive is essential. It's a cute little drive that takes the whole day, but you stop every once in a while at waterfalls, black sand beaches, scenic lookouts, or anywhere you please. We did that in one day. Also, definitely do Haleakala. Other than that, I felt two days was fine to see everything... if you want to hang out at a beach and see the resorts then add another day or two.
For the Big Island, we spent two days driving around the whole island. On the first day we drove from the west side airport to the east (hilo); stopped at scenic points along the way and Volcano's National Park. The second day we did the upper half of the island with waterfalls and scenic sites; if we could do it again we would spend three days and not just two. If you want to spend time at a beach or walking around the resorts, add a day or two again.
Both islands are gorgeous- if I had to pick a favorite I wouldn't be able to!
posted by Jimmie at 8:44 PM on August 10, 2008
For the Big Island, we spent two days driving around the whole island. On the first day we drove from the west side airport to the east (hilo); stopped at scenic points along the way and Volcano's National Park. The second day we did the upper half of the island with waterfalls and scenic sites; if we could do it again we would spend three days and not just two. If you want to spend time at a beach or walking around the resorts, add a day or two again.
Both islands are gorgeous- if I had to pick a favorite I wouldn't be able to!
posted by Jimmie at 8:44 PM on August 10, 2008
On Maui - Haleakala is awesome and especially delightful if you can hike into the caldera. Getting reservations for the cabins within the caldera is on a lottery system and it takes a lot of planning. As for camping - if you go, be prepared for desert conditions because that's pretty much what is down there. The sharp lava will cut your shoes to ribbons so take spares. When I lived there you could get water at the cabins; it's good to check.
If you drive to Hana there are several really nice beaches. The one I like best is called Wai'anapanapa. It is a crescent beach of black sand and it's worth finding. You can camp there; best to check with the State for rules.
On the Big Island the best snorkeling I've ever found was at Lapakahi State historical park. The park is a little past Kawaihae harbor. The beach here isn't too good but if you stand on the rocks you will see fish feeding in the little shore break and it only gets better as you swim out. I saw an immature (six-foot) manta ray there, a few years ago.
posted by jet_silver at 9:12 AM on August 11, 2008
If you drive to Hana there are several really nice beaches. The one I like best is called Wai'anapanapa. It is a crescent beach of black sand and it's worth finding. You can camp there; best to check with the State for rules.
On the Big Island the best snorkeling I've ever found was at Lapakahi State historical park. The park is a little past Kawaihae harbor. The beach here isn't too good but if you stand on the rocks you will see fish feeding in the little shore break and it only gets better as you swim out. I saw an immature (six-foot) manta ray there, a few years ago.
posted by jet_silver at 9:12 AM on August 11, 2008
Last month, we ate at a restaurant called Bamboo on the Big Island and just fell absolutely in love. It's about an hour north of Kona, adorable, delicious and a great experience.
posted by brynna at 1:15 AM on August 12, 2008
posted by brynna at 1:15 AM on August 12, 2008
This thread is closed to new comments.
The southern beaches on Maui are nice, and don't have as many people on them. Makena beach is very pretty.
Do absolutely go to Volcano National Park on the Big Island. Very cheap admission, the visitor's center is pretty slick, the guides are very knowledgeable, and you can drive to the end of Chain of Craters road, then hike for a little bit and watch actual lava from (relative) safety.
If you're a fan of coffee at all, visit one of the larger farms in Kailua/Kona. Take a tour, see how they grow coffee, and have the freshest, best-tasting cup of coffee you'll ever have in your life.
Restaurants: on Maui, go to Kimo's in Lahaina. Relatively inexpensive, very fresh fish, spring for the "hula pie". On the Big Island, any small restaurant in Kona will be good.
posted by mark242 at 8:01 PM on August 8, 2008