Does the brand really matter?

July 15, 2008 5:05 PM

I'm going on a unique international vacation and am looking for a new dress for black tie stuff. I usually spend ~$150 on dresses from Ann Taylor, Isabella Bird, and Talbots. Would the difference in quality/style be apparent if I spent $500 and if so, which brands?

I'm going on a fairly unique vacation abroad with my boyfriend with a number of black tie occasions (he is required to wear a tux). I don't generally do dresses or buying clothes all that much- I have a couple (read: 2) nice dresses that I've since college, one from Isabella Bird and another from Ann Taylor. I think they cost around $150 each.

I am petite and I have classical, conservative tastes in clothes. None of those retro wacky 70s prints for me, I usually go with classic looks.

If I could spend $500 on a new dress for the trip, what brands should I look at? (Bonus points if they have a petite line) Will the difference in quality/style be apparent, as opposed to my $150 dresses?

Thanks.

posted by arnicae to clothing, beauty, & fashion (15 comments total)

A $150 dress from Ann Taylor is likely to be a cocktail dress, rather than a more formal evening gown. When a tux is required for men, I think full length gowns for women are a more appropriate bet.
posted by DarlingBri at 5:24 PM on July 15, 2008

Materials will be better, and therefore drape and hang better off the body. There will be more architecture to the garment - linings, hidden but important seams, better construction overall. I tend to think that $500 dresses are about the same in quality as $300-$600 dresses (and over that, you're mostly paying for a brand), so keep that in mind. For $500, you could probably have something pretty nice made just for you.

here are a lot of dresses, sorted by price. Most of them aren't appropriate for black tie, but you might get an idea of brands you like the aesthetics of.
posted by peachfuzz at 5:32 PM on July 15, 2008

What about this or this, from J. Crew? Classic style and colors, petite available.
posted by scody at 5:40 PM on July 15, 2008

I wore Scody's first link as my wedding dress. It's a gorgeous gown, and black-tie appropriate, although I did have to have some alterations done to make it fit just right.
posted by libraryhead at 5:47 PM on July 15, 2008

I would go to one of (or all of) the better department stores and ask for help from one of the women standing around to help you. Tell them what you're looking for, and the occasions you'll be wearing the dress, and they should be able to help you find something that you look awesome in. I think this is one of those occasions where you could just go to a high-end mall or shopping area, and try on everything that appeals to you in the slightest. Even better, find someone else (a friend, a clerk), so that there's someone to find some things you miss. Be willing to try on a lot of dresses to find a nice one. I wouldn't suggest looking for any specific brands, just something that looks drop-dead gorgeous on you.

You'll probably want a long dress as previously mentioned, if it's a black tie event. In the right seasons, you can find very nice dresses on sale for significantly cheaper than they started out.
posted by that girl at 5:48 PM on July 15, 2008

Also--don't be afraid to ask about tailoring (If you're spending that much on a dress, tailoring is worth it for a perfect fit).
posted by that girl at 5:51 PM on July 15, 2008 [1 favorite]

Nanette Lepore has heaps of classic cut dresses in beautiful fabrics.
posted by Jimmie at 6:38 PM on July 15, 2008

My wife is your size and seems to have your basic taste. I am no expert on her dresses, but even in the shorter cocktail style black dresses there is a very noticeable difference between the $150 and $500 ones, better drape, better fabric, nicer details. She can pinch a penny so the more expensive ones are really not just higher priced, but this takes effort. I have attended more than my fair share of black tie events and most of the dresses are a bit fancier than a cocktail dress. You can certainly get away with a basic cocktail dress (women are lucky this way) but you can get super fancy, runway fashion even, if you want. Black, simple lines, with nice fabric and details in such a way that it will never go out of style is the smart way to go, but in these things you don't need to be smart but can be decadent too. If you need ideas check out the Sunday pages of the NYT where they showcase local society affairs. Age seems to stratify things a bit too, most of the 35 or younger women seem to be in a more basic cocktail style dress and the older women (and the yonger trophy wives) are in fancier attire.
posted by caddis at 6:50 PM on July 15, 2008

2nding libraryhead; I, too, am wearing scody's first link as my wedding dress. I agree that it is a good bet, although I suspect it won't travel that well - the silk wrinkles pretty hard.
posted by crinklebat at 7:02 PM on July 15, 2008

Have you tried BCBG? They don't seem to go over $500 (on cursory inspection), and they have some gorgeous evening dresses.
posted by the luke parker fiasco at 9:57 PM on July 15, 2008

I second BCBG. Also Laundry (by design or by shelli segal) has some nice dresses in the $300-500 range. I think those are usually sold in "better department stores" (like Nordstroms but probably not as nice as Neiman Marcus). So if you're going to a department store anyway, you can look around for them. Also, I don't think you need to wear a full length gown. Something that is a little shorter made with expensive/luxury materials that has a fashion forward sort of silhouette would also be appropriate. Whatever you are comfortable with.
posted by bluefly at 4:03 AM on July 16, 2008

I wouldn't worry too much about whether it will "travel well." Make sure it is a natural fiber; even though these will wrinkle, they will be more durable in the long run and will look better. See if you can find a salesperson who knows how to properly pack a well-constructed dress (as opposed to the usual fold-it-up and stick-it-in-the-suitcase), but mostly you should probably work into your travel budget a professional pressing for each time you pack and unpack this garment. If the affair/s are that fancy, this is probably an expense you want to factor in.

Like others said, don't worry about brand. Find a knowledgeable saleswoman, and look for well-constructed (like someone said this means enclosed seams, lining, natural fibers, etc.). Don't forget the sales racks. Even in the high-end section of high-end department stores, they will have $1,000 dresses on sale for $500.

Have fun! I'm living vicariously through you here, as I have never in my life worn a $500 dress.
posted by nax at 5:10 AM on July 16, 2008

I love BCBG's evening gowns, and they seem to have good things for us smaller ladies.

That said, I usually start my search at discount stores like Loehmann's, Off Fifth, and Neiman Marcus Last Call. I have gotten several fine designer gowns there for half of what I would have paid at Saks or Neiman's.
posted by CruiseSavvy at 10:57 AM on July 17, 2008

I thought I was so clever for wearing the J. Crew Sophia dress as my wedding gown...

I wore it in hot, humid weather and didn't have a problem with wrinkling. The silk is quite heavy so unless you're going to stuff it in a backpack I think it will travel okay. Also, I believe J. Crew offers complimentary basic alterations on special occasion apparel.
posted by TrixieRamble at 12:34 PM on July 17, 2008

Brands don't matter--they're not worth the labels they're printed on--and designers frequently build a name for themselves and then let the quality of their finishing and construction slide. I hear Armani and Theirry Mugler are guilty of this. On the other hand, Ralph Rucci is a name to look for.

In this case, it's the fit and construction of the dress you should be looking at. As for the fit, please consider spending $350 on a dress and $150 on a good and well-reccomended tailor to make it fit. Most ready to wear is built around standardized patterns and dress forms, which have remarkably little to do with what people actually look like.

A well-fitted dress--either bespoke or well-tailored RTW--or will instantly make you look better--slimmer, better proportioned, more comfortable, more formal.

As other commenters mentioned, you should be looking for a beautifully finished garment--it should look as good on the inside as the outside. Consider reading a bit about sewing and dressmaking, so you know what to look for. Look extremely critically at the quality of the fabric, especially that of the lining. I generally avoid garments with overlocked seams, or edges finished with the purl Merrow (which looks like threads wrapped around an edge to finish it). Also make sure that the garment looks good on you, hangs well and is comfortable to wear.

If you want a dress that will stand up well to travel, look for one with an interlining (a second layer of fabric (not a facing or interfacing) between the outside fabric and the lining. Most RTW probably won't have it, but if you're willing to spring for made-to-measure, (which may not be possible if you're leaving very soon), be sure to ask for a garment constructed in such a way that it can travel well. Also, most good silk and wool will stand up well to being packed, and any wrinkles can be steamed out in a shower or can be easily pressed out.

Strapless gowns, in any case, should be built with two bodices, an inner one, fastened at the waist, which supports the bust and holds up the dress, and an outer one in the fashion fabric. And the bust should neither slip downward, nor be squished against the ribcage and spill over the top of the dress.

Once you know what you're shopping for, I'd look at consignment shops--they frequently have very lightly used eveningwear--and the discount places mentioned further up the thread. If you can't find anything there, consider getting a personal shopper at a good department store.

If you're considering having a dress made, and live near NYC, I can recomend a couturier (who happens to be my sewing professor).

I hope you have a marvelous time!
posted by Lycaste at 6:50 PM on July 17, 2008