Bambino it Italy

April 11, 2008 11:00 AM

Scusi - Italy filter: Me, my wife and 10-month old daughter. Flights to Naples next month – then what? Travelling with baby is causing panic.

I booked some cheap flights to Naples a long long time ago and have been
  meaning to hammer something out in respect of organizing accommodation
  etcetera. I had planned on taking her to the Amalfi coast, Sorrento,
  Positano and places of similar ilk however it is becoming clear that
  those places are probably not suitable for a young baby. Steep hillsides
  and lack of beach space for my wife are causing concern.. After talking
  to my wife she is saying she would like to stay in a villa with access
  to a pool and nearby a local village so we can wander in and get food to
  cook ourselves. Preferably within 10km of the coast so we can do a
  daytrip to the coast. Any ideas? There are so many websites with villas
  but nothing fitting the same bill and I am on a budget.

posted by numberstation to travel & transportation (6 comments total)

We took our son to Italy on his first trip when he was (I think) 18 months old. I remember realizing that even though he didn't talk intelligibly yet at that age he clearly didn't understand Italian (but he did understand English). My wife is from Salerno so I am very familiar with the area you will be visiting. I don't even know how many times my now 20-year-old son has been there since that first trip.

The Amalfi coast really isn't all that great for beaches. The beach we go to is close to Paestum and is semi-private. I posted a photo of what it looks like in Google Earth. From what I have read (i.e. Tim Parks) that is pretty typical of beaches throughout Italy. I actually don't know how one would go about finding one (my wife's cousins have a beach house near there and rent an umbrella).

Driving along the Amalfi coast itself can be pretty hairy. I'm not sure how comfortable I would be navigating that coastline with a baby. A really good way to get from town to town along the Amalfi coast is by boat, which would be more fun with a baby, I think, than driving or taking a bus. You might consider making Sorrento your base.

The highway runs between Naples and Salerno on the backside. South of Salerno the coastal road is flat and straight (and lined with prostitutes).

You might consider making your way to Ravello.

I have an old, very primitive website with some photos from one of our trips. I'd be happy to answer specific questions.

One piece of advice: bring a lightweight stroller (obviously you will need this). Also, very important: make sure your child has a hat or you will be the subject of all kinds of remarks by Italian women chiding you for not having one.
posted by thomas144 at 11:40 AM on April 11

I'm thinking more about your accommodation requirements and budget and came up with this site by googling "agropoli villa".

You could also google around Paestum.

It would not be ridiculous for you to consider staying in Salerno, which is actually a really nice, small Italian city completely off the tourist path (and I would like to keep it that way). From Salerno there are boats to Amalfi, Capri, and other locations along the Amalfi coast.
posted by thomas144 at 11:57 AM on April 11

We stayed in Ravello with our two small kids. The steps were an issue, but we managed. Yours is so little you could carry her in one of those backpack thingies. This would make life a lot easier.

I would definitely not panic and just plan on getting on with her as an attachment. People were fine about us having our kids along in all the restaurants, etc. The trick for Amalfi was "walk down, take the bus back". The beaches were ok - like thomas144 says - not great bathing beaches - quite compact.

We had a car, which is not highly recommended in Ravello (we managed ok, though). It enabled us to go into Naples and tour around a bit. One thing we experienced - all the twisty roads made the kids carsick. Ick.

I think with all the ferries around - to Capri, Ischia, etc - it would be great for a child of any age. I wouldn't hesitate for a minute. Wish I could join you.
posted by sagwalla at 12:38 PM on April 11

I remember car sickness in Italy being a big problem for our son when he was 5 or 6 years old, but not so much when he was a toddler, for whatever reason. It can be a problem though and it is something I meant to mention.
posted by thomas144 at 1:13 PM on April 11

You should look into some of the islands north of Naples too - Ischia, Ponza, Ventotana (sp?). My girlfriend (who's from Naples) and I spent a long weekend on Ponza right around when you'd be there, and it was amazing. A tiny island, with one road and a regular bus service, a couple of nice beaches and other nice ledgy places where you could sunbathe and swim (it was a good time to be there, not at all crowded but the water just getting warm enough). One day we rented a motorboat and went over to another deserted island called Molara, where the swimming was even better.
We stayed at a great B&B with a nice owner who spoke English... separate apartments so you weren't really sharing somebody's house. It was called something like Sunset B&B.. I'll try and google his website in case you're interested.
Also, you can get there easily by public transport - bus or taxi to Napoli central train station, then a metro to Pozzuoli - the end of the line, and then a ferry which is 10 or 15 euros.
posted by Flashman at 1:26 PM on April 11

Hmm, can't find it (& GF is away, she would have the details for sure) but here is a good selection of places on Ponza. I have a hunch it might actually have been the Vittoria that we stayed at. Here some more. Ponza.com....Observer article...
Anyway, this early in the season I doubt you'll have any trouble finding a nice place to stay.
posted by Flashman at 1:45 PM on April 11