Help me become an amateur cobbler.
February 18, 2008 6:35 PM Subscribe
I'd like to learn how to make my own leather wingtips, but I have not the slightest idea of how to start. What do I need? how do I learn? how much does it cost to make a shoe?
I am not interested in making this into a profession; rather, it would be a hobby. So, people who are cobblers or have the knowledge I am looking for, your help would be greatly appreciated. How can I learn on my own, or is this impossible? Specifically, I would like to learn to make oxfords, but at that point I could always expand my horizons. If it helps, I live in Los Angeles and with school I do not have time to take shoe-making classes.
I am not interested in making this into a profession; rather, it would be a hobby. So, people who are cobblers or have the knowledge I am looking for, your help would be greatly appreciated. How can I learn on my own, or is this impossible? Specifically, I would like to learn to make oxfords, but at that point I could always expand my horizons. If it helps, I live in Los Angeles and with school I do not have time to take shoe-making classes.
I would think the first thing to do is to acquire some basic leather-working skills, then build on them. I would think you'd have to learn to walk (make moccasins) before you can run (wingtips). Another thing that occurs to me is to go to a Rennaisance Fair if there is one in your area. I know a guy who makes shoes on the side for that kind of environment. Maybe if there is a cobbler there he can give you some times.
posted by Doohickie at 6:47 PM on February 18, 2008
posted by Doohickie at 6:47 PM on February 18, 2008
IIRC, Daniel Day Lewis left Hollywood for a time and went to Switzerland to apprentice as a shoemaker. You might find similar inspiration in Massachusetts or opportunity in Virginia.
But, making wingtips, that's a skill that requires special tools and a keen attention to detail. Maybe you want to make a business out of it.
posted by parmanparman at 7:10 PM on February 18, 2008
But, making wingtips, that's a skill that requires special tools and a keen attention to detail. Maybe you want to make a business out of it.
posted by parmanparman at 7:10 PM on February 18, 2008
I tried to make shoes once ["how hard could it be?" I said], but was defeated by ineptitude.
It's harder than it looks, but I'm sure that it's possible. I highly recommend not starting with leather. If I were trying again right now I would build a shoe out of something like cardboard and newspaper, then graduate to something stiffer like canvas and [probably still cardboard, or maybe rubber].
If you can do that without having weird lumpy bits in your seams [or can cover them to make a comfy footbed somehow! [how?], then [after figuring out the leatherworking side of things which seems intimidating] I would try a leather shoe.
Me, I'm waiting to find a real-life cobbler to pick the brain of in person.
And stealing ideas from anybody who answers you!
posted by Acari at 7:16 PM on February 18, 2008
It's harder than it looks, but I'm sure that it's possible. I highly recommend not starting with leather. If I were trying again right now I would build a shoe out of something like cardboard and newspaper, then graduate to something stiffer like canvas and [probably still cardboard, or maybe rubber].
If you can do that without having weird lumpy bits in your seams [or can cover them to make a comfy footbed somehow! [how?], then [after figuring out the leatherworking side of things which seems intimidating] I would try a leather shoe.
Me, I'm waiting to find a real-life cobbler to pick the brain of in person.
And stealing ideas from anybody who answers you!
posted by Acari at 7:16 PM on February 18, 2008
After meeting Sharon Raymond (linked by Parmanparman above), I was inspired to take up this same hobby, but her lovely creations were just not my style. I looked around for more traditional/fashion shoemaking information (one would think budding fashion designers would have to learn this somewhere, eh?), but it seems these are a highly skilled trade that's not well suited to hobbyists. It's also pretty expensive and challenging to get supplies like suitable leather, tools, premade soles, and lasts, so I gave up before I started. Still interested? This was the best book I found.
posted by Gable Oak at 7:26 PM on February 18, 2008
posted by Gable Oak at 7:26 PM on February 18, 2008
Response by poster: The link to Bespoke Shoemaking also has links to various shoemaking schools, blogs and forums for anyone else who is interested.
posted by KingoftheWhales at 8:31 PM on February 18, 2008
posted by KingoftheWhales at 8:31 PM on February 18, 2008
I used to do leather working pretty regularly (mainly holsters, sheaths, and hats) but I did try to make a pair of boots once.
It ended badly.
Which is in no way meant to discourage you. I would strongly suggest that you learn the fundamentals first: working with a pattern, learning to punch and stitch, boning the leather, things like that. Places like Tandy Leather have a lot of the tools that you will need, as well as kits if you want to try a guided project to start off (not really necessary, but useful for learning how to use a pattern).
The part that was outside of my skill set was trying to work with the soles. I could just never get them to work right, but I was completely DIYing it. You may want to see if your local neighborhood cobbler can give you any pointers in this area.
posted by quin at 11:44 AM on February 19, 2008
It ended badly.
Which is in no way meant to discourage you. I would strongly suggest that you learn the fundamentals first: working with a pattern, learning to punch and stitch, boning the leather, things like that. Places like Tandy Leather have a lot of the tools that you will need, as well as kits if you want to try a guided project to start off (not really necessary, but useful for learning how to use a pattern).
The part that was outside of my skill set was trying to work with the soles. I could just never get them to work right, but I was completely DIYing it. You may want to see if your local neighborhood cobbler can give you any pointers in this area.
posted by quin at 11:44 AM on February 19, 2008
Best answer: One other word you might use is "cordwaining." If I remember correctly, I think "cobblers" were the shoe repairers, while the cordwainers were the shoemakers.
How do I know this? I went to cordwaining class in Toronto. Sadly, the person from whom I took the course has since stopped teaching classes and shuttered her studio, but I got a good feel for what a person would need to learn and think about.
--Get in touch with a theatrical costumer and see if they know anyone who makes custom shoes. The theatrical types will likely be more responsive than the old craftsmen working in a back room somewhere; according to the woman who taught me, the latter may (slightly rightfully) be wary of you and your motives.
--Look around for lasts that work well with your feet. If you can't find a ready-made new or used set to buy, or you can't make a good quality set yourself (plaster works, but it's messy and kind of DIY), get one made.
--Get very comfortable with a sewing machine. You will need to sew in a straight line, and quite possibly do so in parallel lines that would be noticeable as decoration. You will also need to do it through multiple layers of fabric and leather, including layers of different thicknesses and strengths. Start with stiff, harder-to-manage fabrics like denim. If you can find leather scraps somewhere, move up to those; draw directly on the scraps and work on your precision.
--Punching will also be key for you; work on that as well on scraps and in smaller projects. Make sure your holes are evenly spaced and the edges are nice and clean.
--Shoes with backs on them are harder to work with than backless shoes like mules. You may need to use a specialized sewing machine that works a little like an anvil, sewing as you run it over a tall metal sort of peg. You'll also have to measure VERY precisely to make sure the leather fits from the toe to the heel and still gives you enough room for a nice smooth seam.
--Oh, and barge cement is very toxic and should only be used under a fume hood. Wheeeee!
I made my own shoes three years ago and haven't done anything similar since. It's a bummer. Good luck!
posted by Madamina at 5:50 PM on February 19, 2008
How do I know this? I went to cordwaining class in Toronto. Sadly, the person from whom I took the course has since stopped teaching classes and shuttered her studio, but I got a good feel for what a person would need to learn and think about.
--Get in touch with a theatrical costumer and see if they know anyone who makes custom shoes. The theatrical types will likely be more responsive than the old craftsmen working in a back room somewhere; according to the woman who taught me, the latter may (slightly rightfully) be wary of you and your motives.
--Look around for lasts that work well with your feet. If you can't find a ready-made new or used set to buy, or you can't make a good quality set yourself (plaster works, but it's messy and kind of DIY), get one made.
--Get very comfortable with a sewing machine. You will need to sew in a straight line, and quite possibly do so in parallel lines that would be noticeable as decoration. You will also need to do it through multiple layers of fabric and leather, including layers of different thicknesses and strengths. Start with stiff, harder-to-manage fabrics like denim. If you can find leather scraps somewhere, move up to those; draw directly on the scraps and work on your precision.
--Punching will also be key for you; work on that as well on scraps and in smaller projects. Make sure your holes are evenly spaced and the edges are nice and clean.
--Shoes with backs on them are harder to work with than backless shoes like mules. You may need to use a specialized sewing machine that works a little like an anvil, sewing as you run it over a tall metal sort of peg. You'll also have to measure VERY precisely to make sure the leather fits from the toe to the heel and still gives you enough room for a nice smooth seam.
--Oh, and barge cement is very toxic and should only be used under a fume hood. Wheeeee!
I made my own shoes three years ago and haven't done anything similar since. It's a bummer. Good luck!
posted by Madamina at 5:50 PM on February 19, 2008
Best answer: I felt the same way once, and pursued it pretty hard. I’d made a few of the kinds of craft-fair shoes ref’ed in parmanparman’s links and described in all the shoe-making as a hobby books I’ve ever seen (looked hard, too), but these are all shoes made around a live foot, not around a last. I.e., the upper leather attaches to the soling around the outer rim of the foot, not underneath the foot. BIG difference; almost no commercial shoes are made this way, so these just look funky if what you want is a professional looking shoe.
The best thing I did in my pursuit was go here, which happily still seems to be an option. We made real-world cowboy boots, packers and hiking boots, in that order, amazingly, all in two intense, (expensive) unforgettable weeks.
I learned:
It’s fascinating. You can do it.
It’s hard physical work, especially on your hands.
You can’t do this on your kitchen table; you need an empty garage: Besides 2 good heavy-duty industrial leather sewing machines (one flat-bed, one with a tiny free-arm for stitching inside shoes, both on big metal stand/tables), there’s a LOT of huge, expensive equipment that you’ll wish you had, mostly for sole finishing. So you start thinking about local shoe-repair folks you could be-friend and sponge off of, or get to do this part for you...then you realize that they’re getting pretty hard to find. And how come they get paid so badly (charge so little?)...hmmm.
You NEED to own several pairs of real wooden or plastic lasts, one pair for each style of shoe/heel you want to make, and one for each SIZE in each style. So, maybe this is only ONE style/size at this point. Unless things have changed a lot since I did all this (early 90’s) (there’s more folks now who want to be cobblers? Don’t think so...), good luck finding even one usable last in your size/style, or a custom last maker; Randy Merrell (yeah, THAT Merrell) can update you on this issue. Forget about using a plaster last for making men’s leather footwear; you need to hammer nails into it while stretching leather around it with all your might.
So, I had a lot of fun, got some cool hand-made footwear out of the experience (almost wearable, too!), but abandoned my dreams of being a hobbyist shoemaker. Too many serious obstacles. Good luck!
Feel free to email, if you want...
posted by dpcoffin at 8:04 AM on February 20, 2008
The best thing I did in my pursuit was go here, which happily still seems to be an option. We made real-world cowboy boots, packers and hiking boots, in that order, amazingly, all in two intense, (expensive) unforgettable weeks.
I learned:
It’s fascinating. You can do it.
It’s hard physical work, especially on your hands.
You can’t do this on your kitchen table; you need an empty garage: Besides 2 good heavy-duty industrial leather sewing machines (one flat-bed, one with a tiny free-arm for stitching inside shoes, both on big metal stand/tables), there’s a LOT of huge, expensive equipment that you’ll wish you had, mostly for sole finishing. So you start thinking about local shoe-repair folks you could be-friend and sponge off of, or get to do this part for you...then you realize that they’re getting pretty hard to find. And how come they get paid so badly (charge so little?)...hmmm.
You NEED to own several pairs of real wooden or plastic lasts, one pair for each style of shoe/heel you want to make, and one for each SIZE in each style. So, maybe this is only ONE style/size at this point. Unless things have changed a lot since I did all this (early 90’s) (there’s more folks now who want to be cobblers? Don’t think so...), good luck finding even one usable last in your size/style, or a custom last maker; Randy Merrell (yeah, THAT Merrell) can update you on this issue. Forget about using a plaster last for making men’s leather footwear; you need to hammer nails into it while stretching leather around it with all your might.
So, I had a lot of fun, got some cool hand-made footwear out of the experience (almost wearable, too!), but abandoned my dreams of being a hobbyist shoemaker. Too many serious obstacles. Good luck!
Feel free to email, if you want...
posted by dpcoffin at 8:04 AM on February 20, 2008
One more thing: So, I got discouraged. Doesn’t mean you should! There’s always a way...
posted by dpcoffin at 8:07 AM on February 20, 2008
posted by dpcoffin at 8:07 AM on February 20, 2008
Sorry, I seemed to have missed the ShoeSchool link first time through; THOSE are last-made shoes (Healthy Handmade and Sharon Raymond’s are not); cool-looking outfit...
posted by dpcoffin at 8:11 AM on February 20, 2008
posted by dpcoffin at 8:11 AM on February 20, 2008
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posted by caddis at 6:44 PM on February 18, 2008