I'm a switcher.

February 13, 2008 11:40 AM

Help me ride my new road bike better.

I just got a new road bike upon which to do the AIDS Lifecycle. After riding a mountain bike for years I'm having trouble adjusting to the new bike, especially when it comes to the brakes. Much of my riding is in urban areas and there's a lot of stopping and starting - looking online I find lots of advice about how to do long rides, etc on a road bike, but little about riding one in traffic.

What are your braking strategies in urban areas? When do I go to the drop bars? If I'm sitting up I don't feel like I necessarily have enough braking power, but it feels like I can't see well enough hunched over. This is especially a problem since I live in a bad neighborhood and like to both keep an eye out when I'm riding and be able to get moving as quickly as possible.

While that's my main concern, any and all advice on riding a road bike is welcome - I'm all ears.

posted by smartyboots to sports, hobbies, & recreation (30 comments total)

Spend most of your time on the brake hoods.
posted by box at 11:42 AM on February 13, 2008

I agree with box. Set the bike up so that having your hands on the brake hoods is the most comfortable position. Into the drops for headwinds and speed, onto the top bar when relaxing, and generally mix it up a bit to avoid fatigue and overuse. Keep your elbows bent and your wrists straight.
posted by caddis at 11:47 AM on February 13, 2008

If you think you'll need to hit the brakes anytime soon, stay on the brake hoods or in the drops. I personally feel that I have more control in stopping in the drops.

I remember not feeling like I was stopping quickly enough when I was squeezing from the hoods, but I think it's just a matter of time before you're able to squeeze them hard enough to lock up your wheels.
posted by spikeleemajortomdickandharryconnickjrmints at 11:49 AM on February 13, 2008

and with time, you'll learn how to anticipate your maneuvers better so you'll be less likely to have to grab a handful of brake all at once. think further ahead down the road, and it's all about timing
posted by garethspor at 11:55 AM on February 13, 2008

As a mostly road cyclist, I spend 90% of my time on the hoods. I'm not sure what you mean by "braking strategies". Just brake as needed. Signal when you can.

Also, the best advice I heard about cycling in traffic is "act as if you were invisible" which is pretty smart. Pretend people can't see you, and act accordingly. (Full disclosure: I'm a Vehicular Cycling advocate. Don't hate me.)

Other advice:
- Signal your turns
- Watch parked cars for opening doors
- Make eye contact with drivers

Oh, one more good site: How Not to Get Hit by Cars (love the title).
posted by ObscureReferenceMan at 11:57 AM on February 13, 2008

Seconding hoods.
I ride bullhorns for that reason.

Drops are nice on long, long rides, but if you're just starting with them in traffic, I'd treat the drops as a luxury place if you feel your wrists are getting pounded from always being in the same spot, and you're on an otherwise safe-looking bit of road.

Your road bike is meant to be ridden fast, and will feel uncomfortable and wobbly at low speeds, but it isn't unstable. It's just different.

think the word 'zooom!' as you go. It will be ridiculous and help you get into form. Have some fun at the stops by either practising your trackstands or just riding reallllllly slowly up to the red to see if you can not put your foot down.

Eyes open, all the time. Practise hopping up on curbs [which will be harder than on your mountain bike] for emergency escapes.

My generalized braking strategy in urban areas is to always have one finger hovering over the brakes, and to apply them slowly and as far in advance of potential hazards as possible. Stopping/starting all the time is hard on the knees, but slowing down and speeding up all the time is just the flow of city riding.

You'll be able to see well when hunched over as soon as your neck gets used to the awkwardness of it all. If you really *can't* see when on the drops, your ass is too high in the air for city riding.

Learn to do a controlled endo at the red lights [coming up on your front wheel] to impress bystanders and [more importantly] to really really get a feel for your brakes.
posted by Acari at 11:59 AM on February 13, 2008

Make sure you are using your front brake the most. It has all the stopping power.
Being right handed, I have my front on the right so I can really grab it. This is the opposite of the way bikes in America ship, but it's actually more sensible.

Make sure your rims are clean. Try one of those green scratchy cleaner things like you use in the kitchen.

Not enough? You might consider upgrading your front caliper to a Sminano Ultegra or Dura Ace level. Often less than expensive bikes ship with crap brakes.

Too pricey? Look into Koolstop pads. I like the salmon ones best.

Enjoy your ride!
posted by cccorlew at 12:01 PM on February 13, 2008

Here's the thing from ObscureReferenceMan's post that is the takeaway lesson.

"Cyclists Fare Best When They Act And Are Treated As Drivers Of Vehicles."

Which means that if you need a full lane to stop idiots from scraping you against parked cars, move left and TAKE YOUR LANE. You've got the same rights and responsibilities as a car does [sort of], so if someone is honking and yelling behind you because they want to pass you in an unsafe way, well, at least they see you. Don't get intimidated by the drivers who think you don't belong on "their" roads.

But try not to get in too many fights, either.

rant over.
posted by Acari at 12:07 PM on February 13, 2008

For me it's not about braking but about a constant adjustment of speed, through braking, yes, but also through pedaling speed, coasting, etc. Move as fast as you feel comfortable and constantly adjust what that means based on conditions. I do this partially to minimize stopping and starting—the more I can stay moving the better—and partially to always be able to respond to conditions quickly. Biking in a city is all about flow.
posted by wemayfreeze at 12:11 PM on February 13, 2008

In addition to all the people recommending riding on the hoods, I'd also suggest that one doesn't need to apply the brake quite as quickly on a road bike because they stop more quickly than mtn bikes. What you lose in lever position you make up for in reduced braking time.
posted by OmieWise at 12:26 PM on February 13, 2008

Not only do I second staying on the hoods, but I would also recommend having at least two fingers on each brake lever at all times. You do get more leverage on the brake levers from the drops, but in city riding you'd be better off on the hoods. Lead with your front brake, but don't "jam on the brakes" - brake as smoothly as possible.

Riding strategies in urban areas? Keep your eyes open. Be aware of what's happening not just right in front of you, but two or three cars up. And make sure you use your peripheral vision. Do not assume that you can be seen, or that a car knows you're there - even if they do.

If you're riding in the road next to a line of parked cars, look through the back windows of the car two or three cars ahead of you, to see if someone's in the car, getting ready to either get out of the car or move out of the spot - getting doored is, to put it mildly, no fun, and having to swerve to avoid a car exiting a parallel parking spot is risky. You don't have to stare into the cars for long, just take the occasional glance, and if you see a human head in the driver's seat, make sure you're ready to slow down or move.

And now, a word about your ears. Do not ride with earphones on, in city traffic, EVER. It may be OK when mountain biking (which I'm not really sure is the case, but still), but in the city you'll need both your eyes and your ears to know what's going on and to be able to adapt.

And remember, no matter what that asshole in the truck says, you have just as much right to be on the road as they do; follow the laws of the road, don't run red lights, and good luck with your training.
posted by pdb at 12:43 PM on February 13, 2008

I've done a lot of city riding on a road bike over the years.

I'm not sure about the advice to mostly use the front brakes. I may just be a "rear brake guy" but depending mostly on the front brakes seems dangerous to me (flipping over, less control). I could be completely off base. I'd love to see other comments about the rear vs. front.

Not about braking but there were two pieces of advice given above I would stress.

Make eye contact with drivers - until you, do figure they aren't aware you are there.

Take your lane - Depending upon the width of the shoulder this isn't always necessary but, if you are in a situation where there is just enough room for a driver to think they can pass TAKE THE LANE!
posted by Carbolic at 12:48 PM on February 13, 2008

When riding short distances, I stay on the hoods 100% of the time. You have to teach yourself to grip the levers low enough to be able to apply full power, though. And of course, make sure your brakes are tight enough - you should be able to raise the rear wheel off the pavement with the front brake alone and to skid the rear wheel with the rear brake. And keep your fingers on the brakes at all times.

If you feel too low when hunched down, check your seat and handlebar height. Even on the drop bars you should have no problem looking all around you.

For long distances, I've found that neither the hoods nor the drop bars work and I should get arm rest extensions.
posted by azazello at 12:49 PM on February 13, 2008

I have used mini-auxiliary levers that helped alot in stop & go traffic. They do clutter up the bars, though.
posted by gyusan at 12:53 PM on February 13, 2008

Watch parked cars for opening doors

From personal experience, I couldn't possibly stress this enough. People getting out of cars are blind to you, as soon as that door opens.
posted by Blazecock Pileon at 12:56 PM on February 13, 2008

Another piece of general advice is... get a better feel for your cadence. I used to ride in higher gear than my cadence is, and still do a little bit. But when you're going up even a slight grade, being in cadence at all times really helps your efficiency.
posted by azazello at 1:01 PM on February 13, 2008

Yes, front brakes have more stopping power. NO, do not use the fronts preferentially instead of the rear brakes. Use the brakes toward an equal effect- that's why you have 2. Use the front more when the rear isn't cutting it, when you need to stop FAST.

AS far as riding in traffic, that's a whole 'nother google search.

I'll recommend one thing that works for me (so far): when I come to a controlled intersection and I have to wait for the right-of-way. I STAND UP with my hands on the hoods and lean forward slightly. I follow the rules of the road w.r.t. right-of-way, and take it assertively when its my turn, or when given sooner by a motorist. Motorists often don't notice bikes, but are trained to watch out for pedestrians, so standing up helps me get noticed ('cuz I look more like a pedestrian and less like a cyclist?). You are also ready for a quick acceleration, or a quick exit from the bicycle.
posted by TDIpod at 1:07 PM on February 13, 2008

Sheldon Brown on using the front brake.
posted by zsazsa at 1:11 PM on February 13, 2008 [1 favorite]

When I was younger and rode a lot, I practiced an emergency braking technique I read about. Drop down low and stick your butt out to the rear, off the seat. This moves your CG down and to the rear, letting you hit the front brake harder which provides something like 60-70% of your stopping power.

If it's just technique you seek, just practice.
posted by chairface at 1:29 PM on February 13, 2008

She's very purdy.

must repress bike lust.

It sounds too basic, but one of the best road skills is simply trying to ride as stright a line as possible. Side-to-side motion is a speed thief. Ride through puddles and check your wobble. You'd be surprised at how big it really is.

Drops can take a while to get used to. Give them a chance and they'll repay you in comfort and speed. Live on the hoods. The drops are are for speed, tucking into the teeth of the wind and for going down hills. The centrebars are a third position which allow you to uncrick your back (it's the most dangerous though 'cause your hands are at least a second from the brakes).

With both hands on the brake levers, your elbows should be bent about 90 degrees (adjust bike fit until this is comfortable---if you're not racing don't be afraid to raise the bars up to seat height). When sitting, you should have almost no weight supported on the handlebars in any hand position (weight should be on the pedals, perhaps a little on the seat). You should be able to move your hands off the bars without changing your torso position and hold it comfortably.

For safety on-road, the two best pieces of advice are 1) drive defensively, that's the "cycle as if you were invisible to cars" idea; and 2) be as predictable as you can, no sudden swerves, follow the ruels of the road, etc.... Those two ideas are the core of vehicular cycling. You should always have a hand on a brake, the front brake, on an urban ride.
posted by bonehead at 1:44 PM on February 13, 2008

I bought my first road bike a little over a month ago. For the first fortnight, I regretted the purchase of my new bike -- I just couldn't get used to it. The drops felt strange and riding on the hoods seemed unsteady.

But something clicked this past week. I don't ever want to ride that old bike again.
posted by popcassady at 1:44 PM on February 13, 2008

Oh, and keep your head UP! If you're looking at your front hub, you're not looking aT OMG THAT CA
posted by bonehead at 1:47 PM on February 13, 2008 [1 favorite]

That Sheldon Brown link is a good one. People flip their bikes with the front brake because they don't know how to use it. If you get used to what it does and how it works then you won't surprise yourself when you get into a dicey situation and grip down on the front brake.

The person who said your butt may be too high might be right. If you haven't gotten a basic bike fitting, go to a shop and get one. You should be able to get just a basic -- seat height, handlebars, look-over -- for free or cheap. After you get more comfortable, you might want a better, more thorough fitting before your long charity ride. A good fitting will cost between $125 and $200.
posted by amanda at 2:11 PM on February 13, 2008

I used to ride my bike through Manhattan all the time and the best advice I can give you is to get it in your mind that everyone and everything on the road is trying to kill you. Every car, car door, person, dog and most important - pothole - constant vigilance. It's like playing a video game. I remember feeling great to be alive when I got home.
posted by any major dude at 4:28 PM on February 13, 2008

I dont know what size tires your road bike came with, but it is probably a good idea to put bigger tires on for urban riding. I use a 28 in the front and a 32 in the back, 23s on both for "racing." This tip will save you hundreds of dollars in blown tubes, broken spokes and bent wheels.
posted by I_am_jesus at 5:03 PM on February 13, 2008

I'm a bit late coming to this thread, and there's a lot of good advice. But my own two bits' worth:

Don't be afraid of the front brake. You can safely stop with just the front brake, unless it's A. a panic stop or B. on a downhill, in which case your back end is higher.

Having ridden in NYC traffic for 15 years, I can say that one must cultivate a mix of caution and aggression. Too much of one or the other will make you too timid, and cars will cut you off or worse, or you'll become too prone to getting into fights or you'll mow somebody over. As to your concern about riding in your so-called bad neighborhood, I ride with the same level of attention wherever I am.

Nobody's mentioned another things cyclists must be aware of on the streets: pedestrians. Just today in midtown I witnessed a guy jaywalk, and almost get t-boned by a messenger on a fixed gear. It was raining. Not a good idea. But pedestrians do all sorts of stupid things, frequently when on the phone, sometimes when pushing a baby stroller. When approaching an intersection, look to the sides of the street, to see if somebody's going to cross. If somebody is going to be passing through your path of travel, try to time it so you pass behind them, so you don't get the old "deer in the headlights" sudden stop.

My modus operandi is to keep it smooth and efficient. This means no sudden accelerations, no skidding stops, no swerving, being as predictable as possible. This means riding in traffic, not dodging away and toward the curb. This means riding with traffic. You belong on the street, so please don't act like an ass. Don't ride on the sidewalk, unless it's deserted. Don't scare people. Don't blindly blow through red lights; I consider it okay to run one if you can see that you are in the clear and that you're not going to freak out people crossing the street (others may disagree). Ride with both front and rear lights if you're going to be out after dark. Make eye contact. Smile. Wave, even. (Yeah, I do all these things; I'm getting more mellow as I get older. So sue me.) If you're going to say anything, say "Heads up!" Choose your battles.

That said, bike riding in NYC is super fun. I wish it weren't winter, so I could be out every day.
posted by computech_apolloniajames at 6:04 PM on February 13, 2008

I have enough of a sixth sense to be on the drops when a potential braking situation arises, but my advice (and my own preference) is to install suicide brakes on your road bike.

Don't worry, they were nicknamed "suicide brakes" back in the days when they were like this, and if you've used those old things, you'll know how flimsy they felt. But the modern design is completely different, and they are rock solid.

They are installed in-line on the same brake cables as your drops, so your current brake levers will still work just the same, but you've now ALSO got levers under your fingers when riding upright. It's a really nice design, and really nice to have them on the bike. I cycle commute, so traffic safety is a high priority for me, and these things are great.

Having never installed these things before, I was able to do it myself without difficulty. Though if you're too shy to try, the bike shop you buy them at will not charge much to put them on, and might even do it free.
posted by -harlequin- at 6:54 PM on February 13, 2008

A few thoughts from riding on Chicago streets for about five years now:

- When a pedestrian is crossing in front of you aim behind them.

- People have given reasonably good advice up thread save for the person who said to only use the front break. You should use both. The front does most of the work, but the rear evens out the load and is also there for redundancy.

- If you're not already familiar with fixing flats then go ahead and get some practice. You should be used to taking your wheels off and putting them back on.

- A great book for urban ridding is Urban Bikers’ Tricks & Tips. Get it and read it through.

- Watch out for doors.

- With practice you should be able to balance (track stand) at red lights. It's taken a few months of devoted practice to get it down and I still mess up 50% of the time, but when I do it I feel like a super hero.

- I see in-line brake leavers on more and more road bikes nowadays. I even have a pair that I've never installed. You should check them out.

- Also make sure you're well practiced in locking your bike up (or better yet, take it in with you) - your bike will get stolen. I repeat, your bike will get stolen if it is not locked properly, and even then it will get stolen if left alone long enough. Period.

- Speaking of locking, if you remove your front wheel to lock the bike, make sure you double and triple check your brake quick release. You don't want to get up to 20mph before realizing that you're brake pads won't touch your rim...

Good luck and welcome to the fold.
posted by wfrgms at 7:54 PM on February 13, 2008

People have given reasonably good advice up thread save for the person who said to only use the front break. You should use both. The front does most of the work, but the rear evens out the load and is also there for redundancy.

I don't believe I or anybody else here said to use the front brake only. As Sheldon Brown said, skilled riders use only their front brakes about 95% of the time. When in doubt, use both, smoothly and from the drops for greatest leverage.

And as for track stands, this is one of those "mad skillz" things that most beginning cyclists would do well to not bother with. That and bunnyhopping a curb. Most people don't even understand that when starting, one should push down on a pedal, and instead push back with their foot on the ground. It took me years to fully understand that your hips are how you steer, not your handlebars. When you've mastered the basics, then you can start practicing the more advanced tricks.
posted by computech_apolloniajames at 4:37 AM on February 14, 2008

Make sure you are using your front brake the most. It has all the stopping power.

I'd advise against this, actually. If you get too used to using just the front brake, you'll be more likely to jam it on in emergencies, and go tumbling over the handlebars.

After learning that lesson the hard way (i.e. twice!), I now usually slow down gently with the rear brake and then add the front brake to actually stop.
posted by Sys Rq at 11:44 AM on February 14, 2008