When in Rome...

February 8, 2008 3:54 PM

What area of Rome should we stay in? And what should we do there in three days?

My friends and I are taking a transatlantic cruise that gets into Civitavecchia on May 10th. We're planning on staying in Rome that night until May 13th.

I've found Venere.com to be wonderful and useful thanks to AskMefi, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. What area of Rome puts us in a good place to see the best to see of Rome?

We have all of Saturday, Sunday and Monday there so maybe a day for touristy stuff and a day for traveller/milling around stuff.

Which of Venere's "areas of Rome" would be best to stay at? Specific hotels are good too, we're looking at someplace safe, clean and decent. There are three of us, and we're looking to pay roughly $225 each, total.

Any suggestions on off-the-beaten path things and absolute don't-miss restaurants, entertainment, bars and anything else you can think of, please send my way in addition to a good recommendation of where best to stay.

We have no car so will rely on public trans/cabs or whatever's available to get around town. Is there another city/village worth traveling to for a day that's amazing as well?

Many thanks!

posted by disillusioned to travel & transportation (19 comments total)

You'll find answers to at least some of your questions (especially off-the-beaten-path activities) by looking at the threads with your "Rome" tag.
posted by Jaltcoh at 4:01 PM on February 8

Villa Adriana and Villa d'Este in Tivoli are pretty amazing and worth seeing.
The Galleria Borghese and the grounds of the Villa Borghese are an absolute must-see, and it's particularly delightful on a weekend day to see the Romans strolling, taking their dogs for walks, and otherwise treating it like a city park.
Staying near Termini might seem like a good idea, as you can access both Metro lines and FS trains there, but the area's not very nice. Not necessarily dangerous (depending on which side of the station you're on), just not very residential/charming/interesting. Any of Venere.com's "historic center" areas should put you well-placed for public transit and tourist sights. Of those, Trastevere and the Vatican are probably the most residential. The others place you closer to the big tourist sights and the true center of the city.
In terms of getting into the city, Vatican area will put you near either Via Gregorio VII (on the south side) or Metro Linea A/Baldo Degli Ubaldi or Valle Aurelia (on the north side). There are a bunch of good bus lines that get you from Gregorio VII to the center of the city (Piazza Venezia, Largo Torre Argentina, etc).
In Trastevere, there's Tramway line 8 which brings you right into Torre Argentina as well. If you choose a hotel that's near either the tram in Trastevere or Gregorio VII/Metro Linea A in the Vatican area, you won't have much trouble getting around. Further afield on that side of the river could add some complications.
Cabs legally cannot be hailed in Rome, they have to be called to your location. They will sometimes stop for you, but be aware that it's harder than in NYC or London.
That's all I've got for the moment. If you want to know the public transit access of a particular address, let me know and I can check it out for you -- sometimes places that look close on a map turn out to be inaccessible because of a giant wall, for example, or a small mountain between you and the metro stop.
posted by katemonster at 4:15 PM on February 8

Last time I was there I stayed at this place. I would highly recommend it if you are a fairly seasoned traveler--my room was quite spacious, with very high ceilings and a balcony. you get to carry around one of those giant Roman keys and take a turn of the century elevator up to your room. It's in an area called the Nomentata. But it is not in the "centro storico" and it takes ten or fifteen minutes to get to your major sights.

I would also recommend two restaurants in the Piazza della Cancelleria, Il Ditirambo and Il Grappolo d'Oro. I believe they're owned by the same people as the style of the menu is similar at both places. Both offer a good value and are pretty convenient, near the Campo de'Fiori.

For coffee, Caffe Sant'Eustachio may be the best in the world.
posted by lackutrol at 4:17 PM on February 8

Oh, and eat gelato at least once a day. Giolitti, one of the oldest continuously-operated gelaterie in Italy, is great, but so is just about any little shop that has the word "artigianale" on the sign.
posted by katemonster at 4:23 PM on February 8

Staying near the Piazza Navona or in Trastevere puts you in walking range of all the big historical sites and the Vatican but also offers wonderful street life for strolling around through. I loved hanging out at the Caffe Good in Trastevere.

Don't stay too near the Campo dei Fiori - it's a drunken madhouse at night!
posted by nicwolff at 4:36 PM on February 8

Stay at Hotel Domus Praetoria. Trip Advisor steered us right. It's about as good a bargain as could be found in Rome. We stayed there this past spring. The service was excellent and it's 2 blocks from Termini so you can get where you want to be easily.

lackutrol: Caffe Sant'Eustachio *was* great. Tazza d'Oro, not so much.
posted by turbodog at 4:54 PM on February 8

I agree about Villa d'Este and Hadrian's Villa (both in Tivoli) as possible day trips but with only three days in Rome there is so much to see within the city itself that I wouldn't take the time to go to Tivoli.

I've always relied on Frommer's for recommendations on accomodations - I personally like to stay somewhere near Piazza Navonne. Tripadvisor is also an excellent resource, but I would definitely look for hotel recommendations on frommers.com as well.

One of the joys of Italy and Rome in particular is to walk around in the evening reading menus outside restaurants and finding a place to eat. It's virtually impossible to get a bad meal in Rome.

On my first trip to Rome in December 1974 I especially enjoyed visiting the forum and the Palatine and feeding stray cats. I have tried to recreate that experience since by picnic-ing on the Palatine with less success, but it's still something I try to do. I guess what I'm saying is: when you visit the Palatine Hill, bring food for the cats.
posted by thomas144 at 5:07 PM on February 8

Speaking of the Palatine, I highly recommend getting a guided tour. It's a fascinating location, and I got a lot more out of it having a knowledgeable guide explain what I was seeing. Stuff that just looks like a dusty pavement now was once the floor of a Roman emperor's palace -- and a good guide can even tell you which rooms were used for what kinds of functions.
posted by katemonster at 5:24 PM on February 8

Thanks so much, all. I'm so glad I found the venere.com site—they have tons of reviews that help cut through the fluff. But having Mefites point me in the right direction for my specific trip is *very* helpful. And of course I'm looking through similar questions here as well. There's just a lot of options and I don't want our cruise to end with three days in a bad time.
posted by disillusioned at 5:24 PM on February 8

I stayed in frascati (Villa Grazioli specifically), took the commuter train when I could, and the bus (which was easy to figure out, and was explained by the tourist helper people at terminal station) when I lost track of time. It was gorgeous and much less expensive.
posted by a robot made out of meat at 6:32 PM on February 8

I was going to say The Eden. Probably the nicest hotel I've ever stayed.
posted by Jay Reimenschneider at 6:39 PM on February 8

Trastevere for nightlife
Centro Storico for atmosphere
The Vatican, even if you're Atheist
And if you can make a side trip, go to Pompeii. It is the most amazing thing you will ever see.

Make sure to get audiobooks and guides wherever you go, but especially when you visit ruins.
posted by Afroblanco at 7:09 PM on February 8

Oh my god, I can't believe I forgot! The ruins at Ostia Antica are an easy metro ride from Rome, and so much less crowded (and hot) than Pompeii. Although I like the villas in Tivoli, I would definitely do Ostia over them -- or Pompeii, with that little time in Rome. You can easily do Ostia in an afternoon and make it back to Rome in time for dinner and evening activities. There's a decent cafeteria on site, and you're a stop or two away from the present-day city of Ostia.
posted by katemonster at 7:23 PM on February 8

I've found that staying at a hotel in Trastevere is handy because (1) it's cheaper, (2) you can walk to everywhere anyway, (3) it's just down the road from the Vatican, and (4) there are plenty of places to eat and drink at. Caveat: take a decent pair of walking shoes. Some of the streets in Rome have brutal cobblestones.

It's difficult to go wrong touring in Rome - there's so much to see and do that you can't realistically be disappointed about missing out on anything. There's plenty of good advice above, and you only have three days, so I'll restrict myself to things that are actually in Rome.

The Colosseum and the area around are a must, including the (remains of) Circus Maximus, and the Forum, an absurd richness of ruins and history. Swarms of guides haunt the Colosseum forecourt pitching tours. You don't need a guide for the Colosseum, but it will get you past the long line to get in, so it might be a good idea. The Pantheon is just up the road, although it can be a little crowded. Rome's ruins are haunted by a huge population of cats, with their headquarters at the extraordinary Torre Argentina.

The Vatican is worth seeing, as is the nearby Castel S. Angelo. There's always a queue for St Peter's but it moves reasonably fast. Alternatively, if you decided to skip St Peter's, that may not be a great loss - it can be crowded and there are plenty of other magnificent buildings. (The ancient Santa Maria Maggiore is worth seeing.) Check your dates and times as parts of the Vatican (the treasury, the library) tend to close in a near random fashion.

Around the Spanish steps and Via Condotti is picturesque and you can do some shopping (or window shopping) for stylish goods. The absurdly ornate Trevi fountain is nearby.

God, the food. Nearly every meal I've had in Italy has been heavenly. It might be worth stepping just off the main drag to avoid places for tourists, but it's hard to go wrong. Grab a gelato and a drink during an evening stroll.
posted by outlier at 3:01 AM on February 9

turbodog, glad to hear it. Giolitti, a gelato shop near the parliament, is indeed great. Depending on your age, you might be interested in the Palazzo del freddo, another gelato shop that is just insanely huge and has a lot of young people every night (sorry, don't remember exactly where it is).
posted by lackutrol at 4:17 AM on February 9

I highly recommend getting a guided tour.

If a tourguide is what you're looking for, I can recommend one. (She is a personal friend, but I wouldn't recommend her on that basis alone.)
posted by Martin E. at 6:22 AM on February 9

I prefer to book an unused apartment through
posted by Unicorn on the cob at 1:49 PM on February 9

Ack! through this B & B service that allows you to stay in unused apartments/condos while people are on vacation. you can spend 50 euro or so and you have a kitchen, fridge, tub, toilet, and sometimes a rooftop garden (mine did the last time I stayed).

It beats the hell out of a too-expensive hotel or one where you have to walk down the hallway and pee in a communal toilet with a shower in the corner.

Trastevere is where I would stay; don't forget to take a day trip to Pompeii for about $11 apiece from Termini. It's worth it if the weather is nice.
posted by Unicorn on the cob at 1:51 PM on February 9

Do not miss out a visit to the Basillica of San Clemente just beyond the Colliseum. It closes at lunchtime but across the road from the entrance is Clementinas, or Las Clementinas, a tiny family run restaurant with some of the best food I've ever tasted in Italy, expecially the rabbit stew.
posted by Wilder at 5:27 AM on February 11