June 21, 2004

5:08 AM

A friend of mine from Madrid, who has been living in the States for 10 years, has been offered a promotion / transfer to Dubai UAE. Anyone lived in Dubai, know someone who has lived there, or have any interesting anecdotes to share??? Any info / leads / advice would be greatly appreciated.
posted by jasondigitized to (8 comments total)

if you look at some of the newspaper headlines over the last few weeks, i'd say that this doesn't seem like quite the moment to be moving to the middle east. i hesitated posting this, but it seemed odd that you don't even discount such worries in the question.
posted by andrew cooke at 6:10 AM on June 21, 2004

I'm with andrew. Here's what the State Department has to say about the region. Here's the page specific to UAE.

Dubai is one of the most progressive and modern places in the region, and employers tend to treat Westerners extremely well with free housing and other perks. But that wouldn't be enough to convince me to move to a country that borders Saudi Arabia.
posted by PrinceValium at 6:15 AM on June 21, 2004

For some reason, probably attempts to Westernize, they do alot of aristocratic sport there, however. Many different very rich horse races are run there, with purses rivaling any others in the world, in addition to a couple professional golf tournaments. So if your [ahem] "friend" is into that sort of thing, well, there's that.
posted by ChasFile at 6:26 AM on June 21, 2004

A guy who works for me is from Dubai. It sounds like, from a business standpoint, a very interesting place. Tremendous growth, and the government is very serious about investing in technology and infrastructure. There are wierd issues about business ownership, stemming from the fact that it's ultimately a sheikdom and one family pretty much has their status enshrined in legislation. It's also REALLY REALLY HOT.
posted by mkultra at 7:03 AM on June 21, 2004

Dubai has the reputation of being the Spring Break capital of the Middle East, if you know what I mean....
posted by dvdgee at 7:59 AM on June 21, 2004

My mother lived in Dubai for 10 years...her greatest advice...don't drive into a camel, they will fall and crush you in your car.

She enjoyed the experience of being an expat...I visited once, and can only remember the searing heat, and the fact that there was little else to do for a non-working expat - other than chill, drink beer (which you can do) and shop.

What dvdgee said - its party city if you're of that mind.
posted by mattr at 8:16 AM on June 21, 2004

You may also want to check out the CultureGram on the UAE... the page I link is a the fluffy exterior to the real meat of a report (a $4 PDF) that talks about the culture from the perspective of a traveler/sojourner (specifically Americans) and what they should know vis a vis customs and the like.

I used to work with the folks who publish them, and CGs are used by the state department and large corporations as cheat sheets for their employees abroad.
posted by silusGROK at 8:16 AM on June 21, 2004

Please forgive the length of this post. The following is a report produced for staff assigned to Abu Dhabi. It was written in 2000. I've tried to remove all references to my employer except where it's relevant to the reader:

PART I - GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF COUNTRY

Introduction

The United Arab Emirates is a federation of seven Emirates, formerly known as the Trucial States (Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Umm al Qawain, Sharjah, Ras al Khaimah, Ajman and Fujairah) which united in 1971. Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahayan is the President and is elected from among its number by the Supreme Council of Rulers which is formed by the hereditary rulers of the seven Emirates. The UAE is a member of OPEC and the Gulf Co-operation Council (an economic grouping with Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Saudi Arabia and Qatar), the United Nations, World Trade Organization and other multilateral bodies.

It is estimated that nationals comprise approximately 24% of the population of a little more than two and a half million, with the remainder being expatriates. For example, there are some 1,000,000 Indians, 350,000 Pakistanis and 30,000 British nationals in the Emirates. Registrations indicate that there are over 2,500 Canadians, with about one-third in Abu Dhabi and the remainder throughout the other Northern Emirates, principally in Dubai. There are about 65 Canadian companies in the UAE, ranging from food producers and importers, to consulting engineers and oil and gas sector suppliers. The UAE attracts a large number of Canadian nurses, doctors and teachers.

The UAE's economy is based primarily on oil, which was first discovered in 1966, and on which the country is attempting to reduce its dependency. Abu Dhabi Emirate is the chief oil producer and the city is also the federal capital.

The city is located on an island. It has a central downtown core, extensive port, and a developed waterfront with a 10km long, beautiful Corniche. It has many parks and the roads are lined with trees and flowers, and there are many grassed boulevards despite the desert climate. The city is clean, lively, and has a large population of Europeans and offers much of the Western life style in services and activities.

150 km northeast of Abu Dhabi is the city of Dubai, the largest city and part of the second largest of the Emirates. It is the commercial and trading centre of the country with a population of some 600,000 plus, Dubai is arguably the most cosmopolitan city in the Gulf region. With its many five-star hotels, shopping centres, clubs and restaurants, it is a popular weekend destination, particularly for GCC nationals.

The temperature in Abu Dhabi is extremely hot and humid - up to 50 degrees C and approaching 100% humidity - from May to October each year. However, from November to April temperatures range from as low as 12 degrees at night to the high 20's in the day. Occasional rainfall occurs during this latter period, with more frequent showers, and even floods, in the interior. Dust and sand storms can occur throughout the year.

Arrival Routine

Place and Hours of Work

Personal Safety

Abu Dhabi is considered a very safe city in most ways. Of course, like any city, care must be taken at times and in certain areas, but generally personal safety is not an issue. There are murders and rapes reported in the newspapers periodically and burglary statistics are on the rise. Persons arrested for any reason, including traffic accidents, can remain in jail for extended periods of time, even if not guilty of a crime by our standards. Beware if alcohol has played a part in any traffic accident or other disturbance.

Law

Canadians often get into trouble in the Emirates by behaving in a way which would be equally objectionable in Canada. A simple rule is, if you wouldn't do it in Canada, don't do it here. Two of the most common problems for Canadians are drinking and driving and bad cheques. Unlike Canada, there is no safe drinking limit for driving. Any amount of alcohol, and driving is illegal. Similarly, alcohol trading by individuals, or even transporting alcohol, is forbidden (allowance is made for transport from the store, but discretion is still warranted). Public drunkenness is not permitted . NSF cheques are treated as very serious crimes in the Emirates, and people can expect a jail term for such activity. Even once the sentence is served, the creditor has the right to demand continuing incarceration until the debt is paid.

Illegal drug possession is a very serious offense in the Emirates, as it is in Canada and in July 1995, the UAE instituted the death penalty for trafficking in narcotics.

Possession and/or importation of pornographic reading material or videos is strictly forbidden.

The Emirates is a Muslim State and Islamic customs are observed to varying degrees in the different Emirates. As an example, Sharjah has no facilities licensed to serve alcohol. That being said, it is easy to live in Abu Dhabi and begin to believe that this is a westernized society. This is not the case. The legal system and penal code are heavily influenced by Muslim (Sharia) law. Although the police may not be actively searching for breaches of the strict Islamic code, when a breach is presented before them, they will act.

Legal system

The legal system in the Emirates is a complex structure based on nationality and executive privilege. The police have a great deal of power in commencing an investigation and laying charges, but after that, their function is mainly administrative. The file is then sent to the Public Prosecutor, who has greater investigative powers, and will determine if the matter should go before the courts. There are two types of Courts in Abu Dhabi: A regular court for basic criminal offenses, and a Sharia court for offenses deemed cultural or religious. Once the Court has heard the case and made its decision, the Diwan, the Court of the Ruler of the Emirate, has the power to review the case and change the decision if it wishes. The Diwan usually intervenes in offenses of a cultural nature (adultery, witchcraft etc.), sexual offenses, or drug offenses.

There is also a clear distinction between how foreign nationals are treated and how Emiratis themselves are treated by the police and the legal system. An Emirati national will usually have a much easier time. In questions of fault and liability between an Emirati and a foreign national, the foreign national will have the more difficult case to prove.

Women in Abu Dhabi

Canadian women have few opportunities to meet local women, as most women here marry young, have children and cloister themselves in their homes although walking the children in the many beautiful parks is a time tested way of making contact. Visitors will notice varying degrees of covering, ranging from white, loose, head scarves to black scarves (called hijabs) totally covering the hair and black, long garments (abayas), and even to masks (burkhas) covering all but the eyes.

Western women are largely free to dress as they do in Canada, but they will find that they are objects of interest if they dress or behave immodestly. Some expatriate women have complained of being touched or approached, even when in public places. Although the Emirates is relatively safe, it is always wise to exercise caution when travelling late at night as taxi drivers have been known to harass women alone. Such things are largely a matter of common sense as they are around the world.

Single western women sometimes find life difficult here, as they might not be treated on the level of equality they would or would expect in Canada. Their legal status can be different from a man's also. For example, a man can sponsor someone for entry into the UAE, but a woman cannot, without special permission. Canadian women can experience a sense of frustration for some months after arrival with becoming accustomed to different attitudes and seeing the role of women in a quite different society.

Employment Opportunities for Spouses

All spouses who wish to work are currently doing so. There are numerous office opportunities for persons with computer and language skills (particularly if one can speak, read and write and type in Arabic) and teachers can find positions quite easily. ESL teachers are in demand. It can be difficult with specialized skills in, for example, the scientific field, to find employment. Salaries are generally lower than for comparable positions in Canada. One of the negatives encountered is the split working day, with many offices open from 0800 to 1300, closed until 1600 and reopened until 2000. As well, many employees have only Thursday afternoons and Fridays off. On the other hand, benefits are usually more generous than in Canada, with tickets to point of origin, as many as 30 working days leave, and housing and transportation allowances.

PART II - EDUCATION REPORT

Description of Schools

There are a number of international private schools in Abu Dhabi where Canadians have enrolled their children. They operate with Canadian, American, UK (IGCSE), French or International Baccalaureate accreditation. Students graduating from these schools have been accepted by Canadian Universities. There are even Japanese and German schools The following schools are the most popular for expatriates living in Abu Dhabi:

Abu Dhabi Grammar School KG to Grade 12, Nova Scotia curriculum
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
Some 300 students

American Community School KG to Grade 12, American syllabus
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]

About 600 students. Considered by many to be the most "American" school. Attended by Canadian dependants. Full facilities, great deal of extra curricular activity

American International School KG to Grade 12/13, American, IGCSE and IB
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
550 students. Segregated classes after sixth grade
Full facilities and activities and there are Canadian children attending

Abu Dhabi International School KG to Grade 12, American, IGCSE
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
900 students

Lycee Louis Massignon Nursery to Grade 13, French Baccalaureate
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
850 students

International School of Choueifat KG to Grade 12/13, Sabis curriculum (based on American and UK curriculum) - SAT and IGCSE exams written
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]

Pre-Schools

There are dozens of pre-schools and nursery schools in Abu Dhabi, operating in English, French and Arabic. Many of these schools also provide transportation. Costs are comparable to Canadian day care. There are also co-operative play groups organized through community associations or churches which charge nominal fees.

PART III - SOCIAL LIFE AND RECREATION

Night Life

The local community eats late and restaurants, with the exception of hotel coffee shops, are rarely open for dinner before 7:00 or 7:30 pm and often not filling up until after 9:00pm. All the major hotels have excellent outlets of every description, ranging from Indian to Persian to Japanese to Mexican. Food is outstanding and is offered in enormous quantities on every occasion.

Abu Dhabi has several English cinemas which often have first run, but censored, films.
There are also many lively nightspots and almost all the large hotels have night clubs or discotheques.

Social Activities

Because of the enormous number of expatriates in Abu Dhabi, the social life can be hectic and quite diverse. There are literally hundreds of restaurants and bars and people also entertain at home. Emiratis are generally friendly and many have been educated in the UK or the USA, and increasingly in Canada.

Recreation and Cultural Activities

The Cultural Foundation and the Abu Dhabi Classical Music Appreciation Group hold excellent events about every four weeks and admittance is usually free. Hotels often feature name brand entertainment groups from heavy metal music to contemporary. There are occasional ballet performances and opera evenings.

British Airways sponsors four comedies a year at the Intercontinental Hotel, the British Council produces plays annually, a number of the hotels host musical evenings and there are also frequent photography and art exhibits to attend. Due to custom, many of these activities are not publicized but word soon spreads through the expatriate community.

The UAE is showing an increasing interest in preserving its heritage and the Cultural Village in Abu Dhabi and the newly renovated Dubai Museum in Dubai are well worth a visit. Al Ain has a museum and many archeological sites. A Museum of Natural History Museum and the Science Museum in Sharjah get good reviews as well. Sharjah, Ajman and Ras al Khaimah also have fairly decent archaeological museums. The Desert Park in Sharjah is very popular.

Weekend trips include Al Ain, the Garden City of the desert, which is a favourite get-away spot, due to its less humid climate, interesting surrounding areas, and many oases. There are camel and goat markets, a golf course, excellent resort hotels with garden chalets and it is a perfect base for off road driving, trips to surrounding oases, and into the mountains. Dubai is a favourite destination for shopping and nightlife. Khor Fakkan, on the East Coast, is a 3 hour drive and there are a number of small, family oriented hotels and arguably some of the world's best snorkelling and scuba diving water activities are available. Hatta Fort is set in the Hajar "mountains" and has a hotel with swimming pool, mini golf and an archery range. One can also drive to Muscat, Oman in about five hours. Another popular outing is Musandam on the Straits of Hormuz, about four to five hours drive (limited overnight accommodation is available).

Long weekend packages are sold by airlines with destinations including Turkey, Egypt and the Maldives. Cost for these ranges between C$800 and C$2000 for a four day package, depending on the type of accommodation selected.

Desert drives with camping are very popular for those who have a four wheel drive vehicle which seems to be the most common vehicle on the street. Camping is also spectacular in the mountains on "wadi-bashing" trips.

There is a Club for Canadians in Abu Dhabi which hosts several functions throughout the year such as the popular Thanksgiving dinner, dinner dances, nights at the horse races and boat trips. There is also a very active Terry Fox Committee which organizes an annual and extremely successful run.

Sports and Outdoor Life

For five months of the year, outdoor life grinds to a halt because of the extreme heat and humidity from May to October. However, temperatures are very pleasant (mid 20's) for the remainder of the year and one can enjoy world-class golf courses (from C$2800 - C$4800) per person for a yearly membership and C$100-C$150 for daily green fees). Golf can be played at night in the hot months on floodlit courses. Swimming, horse riding, squash, tennis, cricket, snorkelling, , boating, fishing and even softball and hockey (one team in Abu Dhabi, one in Al Ain, two in Dubai), numerous scuba diving clubs, environmental group outings and countless other opportunities for outdoor activity and physical fitness are available. There are many sports and recreation clubs with family membership from C$1,200 to C$3,000 per year. Many of the hotels have fitness facilities and there are very popular (and very busy) beach clubs as well as many public beaches.

Although betting is officially not permitted, horse racing and camel racing are also popular during the winter months. Tour companies organize desert drives, barbecues, camel treks and camping.

Ramadan:

During the Holy Month of Ramadan it is forbidden even for non-Muslims to eat, drink or smoke in public from sunrise to sunset. The authorities can be vigilant in enforcing these restrictions. Many offices during this period have compressed working hours but shops and stores are usually open until well past 10:00 pm, with several hours closure during the afternoon. Hotels set aside a closed room for lunch-time dining but many restaurants are closed until sunset. 2000 Ramadan will run approximately from 28 November to 28 December, depending on the sighting of the moon. While the days can be quiet during this period, once the sun sets there are rounds of "Iftar" events, or fast breaking dinners, and the city, lit from ground to the top floors of buildings in festive lights comes alive. It is a very social time of year for the locals who meet and eat late into the night in tents set up in hotel grounds and private gardens.

PART IV - ACCOMMODATION, FURNISHINGS, HOUSEHOLD EQUIPMENT

General Housing Situation

Foreign nationals are not allowed to own property in the Emirates so foreign nationals rent properties owned by an Emirati. Expatriates in Abu Dhabi live in either single family houses, semi detached units or apartment blocks. Rents are expensive, but most employee benefit packages contain a housing supplement.


PART V - LIVING COSTS, FOOD, CLOTHING

Living Costs

A full cost of living survey was done last year and the index was set at 125. With the exception of gasoline (40 cents per litre) almost everything seems to be a good 25% higher than it would be in Canada.

Shopping

The Emirates produces very little of its own food but does import from the Gulf, Europe, America and Australia/New Zealand. Almost anything is available at prices generally higher than Canada. Supermarkets stocks a wide variety of North American and British brands. Pork is available in special sections in the main grocery stores.

A permit is required to purchase liquor and it is widely available in hotels and private clubs. Restaurants not attached to hotels are not allowed to sell liquor. It is important to carry your liquor permit anytime you are consuming alcohol.

As the Emirates is principally a trading centre, all manner of electronic, photographic and other consumer goods is available at sometimes very competitive prices. Abu Dhabi, Dubai Al Ain and Sharjah have gold, fabric, spice and general merchandise souks that are well worth a visit. The cities are sprinkled with car parts souks, sanitary supplies souks, plant souks, etc.

There is a good range of internationally known shops and two huge new shopping centres are under construction in Abu Dhabi. There are also several large shopping centres in Dubai. Stores in Abu Dhabi include Marks & Spencer, BHS, JC Penney, Ikea (soon to open), Body Shop, Toys R Us, Mango, Zara, Mothercare, and every conceivable luxury food store such as Vercacci and Cartier.

It is possible to buy the latest European fashions in clothes, shoes, cosmetics and housewares but prices for the goods may be high. At the other end of the scale, the French chain Continent has large stores in Abu Dhabi and Dubai with a supermarket and department store approximately equivalent to a Walmart.

In the Souk, bargaining is the name of the game and great fun. Except for the larger, fixed price stores, it is expected that a compromise will be negotiated and even in the 'regular' stores, you can usually bargain for significant items such as furniture, carpets, cameras and electric goods.

Clothing and Shoes

There are many stores in Abu Dhabi and in Dubai which cater to those wishing to buy luxury European suits, designer dresses, Swiss watches and high range Italian shoes at premium prices. It is, however, more difficult to buy good quality, reasonably priced clothes and shoes. There is no "Hudson Bay" equivalent in the Emirates and it is the medium quality and priced merchandise that is hard to come by. The souks tens to offer cheap, lower quality items. It is almost impossible to find clothes and shoes in anything other than average sizes. A good and varied supply of fabrics exist and decent tailors are available.

Laundry and Dry Cleaning Facilities

All SQs are equipped with washers and dryers. There are good dry cleaning facilities with rapid service.

Household Help

All staff residences have maid's quarters (one small room and separate bathroom) Expatriates generally have one or more servants from Sri Lanka, the Philippines or India. Diplomats are exempt from the substantial annual sponsorship fee ( Dhs 5000/ C$2000) but must go through the tedious bureaucracy required for a residence visa. Depending on the duties, staff are paid from C$350 - 400 per month for a full-time cleaner, and up to C$600 for someone who cooks and does child care. Other benefits customarily include tickets to home country, medical card and perhaps even clothing and food.

PART VI - TRANSPORTATION AND COMMUNICATION

Automobiles

Driving is on the same side of the road as in Canada. All makes of cars are available, with many choosing a four-wheel drive vehicle (such as a Nissan Patrol or Toyota Landcruiser) because of the accessibility and attraction of the desert and mountains for outings. Foreign, high powered, sports cars abound and it seems that there are as many Mercedes and BMWs on the streets as there are people. Many North American and Japanese cars makes are available. There are numerous garages but as anywhere, satisfactory servicing is sometimes a problem. No body shop is permitted to repair a car unless they have a police report as to the cause of the accident. Resale value for used cars is quite low.

Car Insurance

Third party insurance is compulsory and readily available locally. Costs are generally greater than in Canada.

Driving License

It is possible to exchange one's Canadian driver's license for a UAE license. This procedure can take 20 minutes or four days, depending on the whim of the official involved. It is strongly recommended that all Canadians arrive with a valid Canadian driver's license as the procedure to obtain a local license without a foreign license of the same place of origin as your passport, includes extensive driving lessons and the likelihood of failing the test several times.

Local Transportation

Taxis are readily available and is reasonable, metered and air conditioned. There is a limited bus system but this mode of travel is not usually taken by Westerners.

Mail and Parcel Post

Local parcel post "express service" can take six weeks to Europe at a cost of perhaps 3-4 times what it would be from Canada. The local mail system is not 100% reliable, although it is speedy and costs only slightly more than in Canada.

PART VII - SANITATION AND HEALTH SERVICES

General

While the city of Abu Dhabi has extensive green spaces and streets are tree-lined everywhere, there is a great deal of construction but little apparent pollution. The population has a different attitude towards littering than most Canadians, but there is an army of municipal workers who pick up trash. The Municipality recently announced a 500 AED (approximately C$200) fine for throwing litter from car windows. City garbage removal service is twice daily. Poisonous snakes, scorpions, lizards and insects are extremely rare in built up areas but can be encountered in the desert.
Water

Most villas and apartment buildings have filter systems but these are not considered totally effective. Staff do not feel it is necessary to soak vegetables and fruit before consumption but no one drinks from the tap , largely because of silt in it and the taste of the desalinated water.

Prevalence of Diseases

The Health and Welfare doctor resident in London undertook a survey of medical facilities and determined that the community offered adequate care for day-to-day problems. She recommended that nothing other than a routine pregnancy be undertaken in the Emirates. There are occasional outbreaks of malaria and cholera reported but HWC has not recommended the taking of prophylactics. Children seem to suffer from various heat rashes and skin problems on arrival and many expatriates find the extreme heat and humidity during the summer months to be very debilitating.

Motor Vehicle Accidents

The UAE has four times the international highway fatality rate. City driving manners can best be described as discourteous, impatient and unpredictable.

AIDS

UAE authorities minimize the prevalence of AIDS in this region. All expatriates (with the exception of diplomats) must have a blood test before a residence visa is issued. If HIV-positive, the person is immediately deported. Unfortunately, there is no compulsory AIDS testing for nationals and it is believed that the incidence of HIV/AIDS is much higher than acknowledged. During the past few years, there has been a marked increase in the number of female "entrepreneurs", particularly from the former USSR countries.

Medical, Dental and Hospital Services

All residents may purchase a national health card which entitles them to subsidized and emergency treatment at a National Hospital, though none of the CBS at the Embassy has one. Additionally, there are many European/American clinics which provide services of varying degrees of effectiveness which the CBS use for medical care. Al Tawam Hospital in Al Ain has a good reputation internationally, particularly for cancer care. There are a large number of Canadian doctors and nurses employed in local hospitals in the U.A.E. Dental care by Canadian, American or European practitioners is readily available.

PART VIII - Customs Regulations and Finances

Privileges and Immunities

PETS

Pet rabies vaccinations and health certificates issued by a veterinarian can freely enter the UAE. If pets are accompanying incoming staff, they enter at Abu Dhabi Airport Services Cargo Centre, some minutes away from the airport and a further two hours is usually required to clear them. The city has large numbers of stray cats which may be disease carriers. Dogs are ordinarily not seen in a good light culturally but they are sometimes seen, always on a lead.

Banking

Interactional services are readily available as are ATMs and many chose to set up internet banking access before leaving Canada.

Tax Exemptions

The only significant tax exemption diplomats receive is access to 'duty-free' alcohol supplies. A monthly maximum limit is established depending on status and family size. A permit is required for which the bearer is entitled to purchase liquor\beer.
posted by smcniven at 9:00 AM on June 21, 2004