How to dress a not-thin man

September 25, 2007 9:24 PM

I'm 5'10", around 205 lbs. Whenever I try on clothes, whether they're shirts or jeans, they always end up looking baggy or bunchy, and nothing ever fits correctly. Where can I find clothes that fit better, and what styles would look best?

I'm working on losing weight, but want to look as sharp as I can the meantime. Whenever I try on clothes off the rack at stores like Banana Republic, the shirts in my size (Large, or 16 1/2 34-35) always seem too big. Too much material at the sides, sleeves too long, and they bunch up if I tuck them in and look really bad. 'Slim cut' shirts are too tight or don't fit at all. And if I wear a button down shirt out, it looks way too long and becomes a wrinkled mess once I sit down.

As for pants, most pants my size have giant, baggy legs and rear. Jeans look really bad, with too much excess material, unless I get regular or slimmer fit.

Where can I find good clothes for someone who has weight around the middle, but otherwise isn't overly fat? And what style would look best? I tend to look good in a suit, but I work in casual, creative environments, so it would be odd to walk around looking like a banker all day.

posted by lsemel to shopping (21 comments total)

I also share the all too familiar ill-fitting curse.

It baffles me how a good deal of my friend's always seem to look like they had their clothes tailored for them personally.

Perhaps that is a solution? If you're spending the cash at Banana Republic, you could always go cheaper than pay for alterations after the fact.

Assuming your are male, and since you mentioned Banana Republic, I suggest just dedicating a solid day foraying around thrift stores spending about the same amount you would buying a BR outfit (say $150). The same outfit is sitting in a second-hand store somewhere for $15. Plus, you're reusing. And you feel totally indieawesome.
posted by ageispolis at 9:33 PM on September 25, 2007

I have this problem some, and i have found that American Apparel shirts fit me really well. People ask me if I've lost weight when i wear them.
posted by Bookhouse at 10:00 PM on September 25, 2007

Part of it is that fashion is designed for skinny people, so you might have to wait it out until you lose some weight. Until then, try shopping at stores like the Gap, where the clothes are designed for bigger people.

And for the record, I too have fitting problems, even though I'm choosing between a small and a medium most of the time. I'm really between the sizes, so you too may be between sizes, and just need to lose a little weight to hit on the right fit for a particular size.
posted by awesomebrad at 10:25 PM on September 25, 2007

nordstroms. here's why: they offer free alterations on many things they carry - like the jeans. and most of their stuff already is rather nice.
posted by krautland at 1:51 AM on September 26, 2007

Banana Republic, as I remember, offers free alterations if you buy things full price (non-sale items). You might be able to get a classic fit shirt taken in a little to fit your midriff, sleeves shortened, etc. Many dry-cleaners will do alterations, too.

As far as fitting your pants, try out a boot-cut style. You might find they offer that tapered and fit look you seek. Be sure to get the right length to avoid the baggy.

Thrift stores can be awesome for finding great looking things on the cheap (just found a supergreat 3/4 length peacoat for like $20) but if you are trying to find a unique fit you probably want to shop name-brand. Thrift store clothes can either be from the mid '80s or 2003 - a huge grab bag of trends and fits, easily too broad for your needs. But hey, you never know, so go out and try some stuff on.
posted by roygbv at 2:46 AM on September 26, 2007

And if I wear a button down shirt out, it looks way too long and becomes a wrinkled mess once I sit down.

Trade secret: undo the bottom button when you sit down.
posted by chrismear at 2:50 AM on September 26, 2007

I tend to look good in a suit

A casual suit-style jacket can hide a multitude of shirt and trouser-arse-region sins.
posted by chrismear at 2:53 AM on September 26, 2007

Many have touched on it: Find a good tailor. This is true for finding a perfect fit even after you've lost the rest of the weight. (Congratulations in advance, by the way!) Most people who look as though their off-the-rack clothes were custom tailored for them look that way precisely because they have a tailor who makes their off-the-rack clothes fit them perfectly. Good luck!
posted by unclejeffy at 4:14 AM on September 26, 2007

most better clothing stores will tailor your clothes for free or very little if you pay full price for the item. banana republic, i'm pretty sure does. brooks brothers surely does. etc.
posted by thinkingwoman at 4:27 AM on September 26, 2007

You may also want to experiment with sizes. Don't think that you are always a large. My husband has learned to try on the same shirt in more than one size to determine which is the overall better fit. American clothes tend to be cut so generously that to get something to fit (instead of hang) you may have to go down a size.
posted by wallaby at 4:50 AM on September 26, 2007

I am your size and find LL Bean jeans are a good fit, well made, and reasonably priced. You might have to try a couple of different styles to get the fit you want, but they are good about accepting returns (assuming you can't get to Maine or another brick and mortar location to try them on).
posted by TedW at 5:06 AM on September 26, 2007

Another option might be to have your clothes made for you based on your measurements. My Custom Tailor has made shirts for me that are no expensive than ones I'd previously bought at the boutique up the street. If you're willing to wait a couple of weeks for something that fits, that is.
posted by yoga at 5:20 AM on September 26, 2007

no *more* expensive, that is.
posted by yoga at 5:20 AM on September 26, 2007

Wallaby has a good point - size in most ready-to-wear stores these days is actually kind of arbitrary. I've found that the size that looks best on me varies not only from store to store, but for each individual item. When you're shopping, try on a bunch of sizes and get what fits best, not what size you think you are or should be. Don't buy anything without having tried it on first.

That said, I've also found that some stores are more likely to fit me better than others. Maybe Banana Republic's basic proportions just don't work with your frame - try other stores like J. Crew, Club Monaco, and mid-range department stores like Nordstrom or Lord and Taylor. Also, most cities have a bunch of non-chain specialty menswear shops that would be worth checking out. Some inevitably cater to the fifty-year-old golfer set, but there are also usually some who keep up with current styles and designers; these shops usually have tailors on hand as well.

And finally, yes, a tailor is a good idea for final tweaks, but. they shouldn't have to reconstruct a garment for you. I think if you broaden your search to other stores and try on a range of sizes, you'll be able to find clothes that fit and that need minimal, if any, alteration.
posted by AV at 5:51 AM on September 26, 2007

Don't try to wear dress shirts untucked with jeans as casual wear. Buy yourself some casual button-downs at Old Navy or Macy's to wear instead. They won't be too long. Look for shirts with a subtle vertical stripe -- it's slimming.

If you're working in a casual environment, try layering a casual blazer with a funky t-shirt or a v-neck sweater underneath. Invest in good leather shoes or a very cool pair of sneakers.

No idea about jeans I'm afraid. You're the same size as my husband, and I'm still searching for a brand that he thinks is comfortable and I think is stylish.
posted by junkbox at 6:06 AM on September 26, 2007

if you're looking for tshirts, i LOVE american apparel... i worked at apple for a while and all of the shirts they give employees are american apparel. everyone i worked with LOVED the fit, and we were all different shapes and sizes.

the AA store only sells plain shirts, but if you're looking for a nice graphic on the front there are a few online stores that print on AA shirts... i believe threadless is one of them but there are a bunch of others.

as far as jeans go, i either take my sister or gf when i go shopping. they can be pretty brutal sometimes, but at least i know its an honest opinion and not just a sales clerk looking for a sale. i usually end up in Sevens or Lucky jeans.


.//chris
posted by hummercash at 8:41 AM on September 26, 2007

I'd advise losing the weight before you make an investment in clothing, since you're going to need to buy all new stuff even if you *do* find clothing that fits.. and then lose a bunch of weight. Even at your height and 160 lbs, I still find that most off-the-shelf mall stuff (J Crew, BR, etc.) fits like a tent, and I barely fill out their mediums.

Drop 20-40 lbs, buy fewer items of good quality from the high-end outlets (Nordstrom, Saks, etc. all have outlets), then find and befriend a tailor since even the good stuff needs to be taken in.

Jeans are the hardest. Most American brands will have a giant saggy ass and you'll do well to invest in the "designer" brands that use good ringspun cotton (some with Lycra mixes) in a slimmer fit. They last much longer, too. As mentioned above, Seven For All Mankind tend to fit just about everyone pretty well, especially towards the larger end of the scale. Skip the "relaxed" fits.
posted by kcm at 9:16 AM on September 26, 2007

You might think about hiring a personal shopper / personal stylist / image consultant. I'm looking into this sort of thing myself (for different reasons). Since you're in New York, you ought to be able to find dozens of qualified and competitive services along this line. Even if you have a limited budget, they can save you time by directing your budget efficiently, and having a disinterested opinion on how you look is priceless.

Life has become so complex these days, why not outsource some of the complexity to people who are good at dealing with it? There's no shame in not being good at everything.
posted by Araucaria at 11:58 AM on September 26, 2007

Oh, and my rules of thumb for hiring any sort of professional service like that are

• Find at least 3 service providers.
• Get 3 references for each one, with before/after pictures if possible :-)
• Arrange for an initial consultation, preferably for no cost. But if they prefer a fee, at least try to make sure that it is fair and that it would be refunded if you end up engaging their services.
• Go with your gut — if your communication styles don't mesh well, it's not going to work out, even if they can do amazing things with other people.

Good luck!
posted by Araucaria at 12:21 PM on September 26, 2007

Hi, thanks for asking this question, I have been tempted myself many times. I am roughly the same size, 6ft, 205lb, but cursed with narrow shoulders and wide child bearing hips. This means than any shirts that fit my shoulders stretch over my ass unless I undo the bottom button. A couple of tips I have found:

(i) Personal shopper. I went to Bloomingdales, they have a free personal shopping service, with no obligation to buy. It was awesome, he led me around the whole store, picking out the gems, carrying everything, and then left me alone in a huge fitting room for about an hour trying on all the stuff we had picked out. I tried on 100 items, and as a result found 4 that fit perfectly and I wear to death now. A pair of Michael Kors trousers were not cheap, but fitted me so well that every time I wear them I get compliments.

(ii) Brooks Bros slim fit shirts. Counter intuitive I know, but the slim fit ones are cut to take away that excess old fashioned fabric, but not as slim as most stores like Banana Republic. I have about 10 and wear nothing else for work.

(iii) Find one item that fits really well using the personal shopper, and then hit Ebay and the discount stores for the same brand/model. I bought one pair of Adriano Goldschmidt jeans, then picked up 3 more in Orlando Premium Outlets for about 60 bucks each!

Most of all, have fun with it! You are finding something that makes you look good - don't be tempted by the bargain or the perfect item in the wrong size. You will find the things that are perfect. You are lucky being in NY - miss my time there!
posted by csg77 at 4:39 PM on September 26, 2007

Thanks for the useful suggestions. I just visited Gap today and got a nice blazer, as one of the posters recommended. (These are extremely inexpensive, as far as blazers go, and look good with jeans) And Banana no longer even sells classic-fit shirts, only the slim kind, according to the salesman there, so no longer will I bother to visit that store.
posted by lsemel at 9:47 PM on September 26, 2007