Changing the way a coat hangs.

September 25, 2007 4:31 PM

Help modifying a coat.

This concerns a present for a friend who reads Metafilter, so I apologize for the vagueness and unhelpful pictures. See, the friend has an old photograph that he greatly admires, featuring a man in an awesome coat. We've managed to locate a seemingly perfect replica of the coat.

There's a problem, though. It's a thick, heavy, duffle coat, designed to be worn buckled and closed. In the picture, the coat is being worn open, unbuckled, with the two, um, front halves lying flat. If it's done up, it no longer looks right. If you wear this coat open, however, the weight of the hood causes the front parts to swing open and back, revealing the lining and generally looking terrible. This is less awesome then intended.

As much as it's also supposed to be a practical winter coat, if we can get it to look right it'll mean just a huge amount to him. Is there something we can do to make it hang right? Even at the expense of comfort? Ironing and pressing it under weights failed. One of the co-gifters wants to install some sort of wire, but I'm not sure.

posted by anonymous to clothing, beauty, & fashion (13 comments total)

Not sure if I'm interpreting your description right, but maybe sewing weights or heavy buttons in strategic spots along the hem or inside the lining near the hem might help? That's is a fairly common technique.
posted by doift at 5:02 PM on September 25, 2007

If the coat's as awesome as you say, you might not want to mutilate it much, in case your friend decides later that he'd rather have the coat look like it did originally instead of like it does in the picture. If you install wire or rip it up a bunch, he won't be able to do this. Additionally, if you put in a bunch of wire and it doesn't work, it'll be hard to take out without damaging it.

If I were you, I'd attack it with a needle and thread. You'll probably have to do it by hand instead of with a machine, since coats are really thick. Get some matching thread and a big needle, pin the front parts exactly where you want them, and put a few stitches in to keep them open. Durable, yet undoable.
posted by bluishorange at 5:08 PM on September 25, 2007

Who is wearing the coat when it hangs wrongly? Same sex/build as the much admired photograph? Don't judge until you have someone of similar build to the photograph wear it.
posted by fire&wings at 5:20 PM on September 25, 2007

The first picture helps, the second picture sort of matches your words, but the third just seems sarcastic or something. I have no idea what you're trying to do.
posted by rhizome at 6:01 PM on September 25, 2007

In what context is the photo taken in which the coat hangs all cool-looking and stuff? If it's a professional, posed photograph (i.e. fashion shoot, etc.) chances are there was a lot of stuff done with clips and wires to make it look cool in the photo; this stuff would look decidedly less cool in real life.
posted by dersins at 6:09 PM on September 25, 2007

before you start cutting and modufying it, why not take it to a good taylor, someone who's likely encountered this situation before.

oh course, i don't really understand precisely what you're describing. I thought I had, and then the last picture made me not so sure.
posted by buka at 6:16 PM on September 25, 2007

How the coat hangs is a fit issue. Having someone other than the intended wearer try the coat on will not give the same results. If you want to insure it will look awesome, have the lining replaced with a lining that looks awesome. Maybe some sort of silk brocade would work. You can keep the sleeve lining plain to save money on this.
posted by yohko at 7:16 PM on September 25, 2007

Just figured out what anonymous is referring to here:
the weight of the hood causes the front parts to swing open and back

The hood attaches to the front of the collar, and when the hood is down and the coat isn't buttoned, the hood spreads out, bringing the buttoning edges of the coat with it. If the coat was worn open but with the hood up, this would not happen.

Anonymous, this is just how duffel coats fit. The coat in picture #2 is very different, with a lapel and a more formal cut. You will not make a duffel coat look like this unless you take a pair of scissors to it.

You might be able to fake the look you want with an extension on the button. Basically, you would construct a button and something for a buttonhole connected by a cord or strip of fabric. This would be buttoned to the top button of the coat on one end, and the corresponding buttonhole on the other.

Wire??? I can't imagine a practical winter coat that would involve wire. I'm guessing you live somewhere where the concept of "coats" is a bit unfamiliar, but people generally like them to be comfortable, and might possibly wear them while carrying heavy things that hang on shoulder straps. Wire would really, really suck.

buckled and closed
I think this must mean "buttoned".
posted by yohko at 7:44 PM on September 25, 2007

All those problems are coming from the collar. In particular the front. You should be able to sew in a heavier facing. Or if you wanted it to really fit amazingly well, create a 'shirt' to attach it to giving it the framework it lacks.

...and no wire it will tear. If it's behaving that badly (and people are confusing you with crazy cat ladies...) reefing it into place...? (Really sounds like a mans idea :-s) Rather than getting away with bodging it up like a busted handle think of it as a house with no frame... yes. Mmm...

(The pressing would only have worked if it had structure to shape.) And never listen to unimaginative types that immediately say things can't be done :) it's pretty much a sure sign they can. Feel free to email if you need a hand.
posted by mu~ha~ha~ha~har at 8:38 PM on September 25, 2007

Or I could've just said - In your first pic. See the square patches coming over the front of his shoulders? They're the key!! Either put them on the inside or get the existing ones up to code. But still email if you need. *I love alterations!*
posted by mu~ha~ha~ha~har at 8:45 PM on September 25, 2007

Tell a lie. You'll probably need the back piece too. Put it all together and it's called a Yoke. And THAT is the key.
posted by mu~ha~ha~ha~har at 8:49 PM on September 25, 2007

1. Sewing shops sell something called drapery cord, which is a hollow tube about 1/16" of an inch in diameter filled with tiny little weights. It's sewn into the hems of drapes to keep them from being blown about. You might find a use for that.

2. Have a seamstress remove the hood. It can be converted to a collar if needed.
posted by happyturtle at 11:31 PM on September 25, 2007

Know what I'd do? Get a card, make a card, a note what-have-you and inside the card you offer to have the coat tailored to their liking (if there is an issue of it not fitting right) and leave the bleedin' coat alone. You never know they may just like it just the way it is.

my 2¢
posted by squeak at 1:41 AM on September 26, 2007 [1 favorite]