Bike Repair

July 3, 2007 9:38 AM

Help me fix my classic Schwinn beach cruiser bike!

I have a classic scwinn beach cruiser, for those who dont remember, it looks something like this (but without the chain guard). But it has been having some problems lately, and I dont know how to fix it, and my google-fu isnt turning up any good how-tos on fixing these kinds of bikes. First, I should note that in case you cant tell from the picture, it is a single-speed bike, and it has the kind of brakes that you activate by pushing the pedals backwards. Anyways, the problems are as follows:

-For awhile, the chain would slip off. I tightened everything on the wheel, and that problem seems to have stopped.
-The back tire wobbled side to side quite a bit, often rubbing against the frame of the bike
-The brakes do a most annoying thing, I will push the pedals backwards, and the pedals will forcibly lurch forward. In other words, I cant rely on my brakes to work! It seems to happen everytime I try to apply the brakes quickly, and only sometimes when I apply them gradually.

Any advice, or good websites, on how I can fix my bike would be greatly appreciated! I contacted a bike repair shop, and they gave me a $110 estimate (plus tax). Considering I have put about $100 into the bike so far (to replace tires, chain, and initial purchase), I'd like to avoid paying another $110 just for the back wheel! Especially since I can buy a new beach cruiser for just under $200.

posted by LoopyG to sports, hobbies, & recreation (12 comments total)

To fix the wobble, you need to true the wheel.

Double check that the chain isn't too warn by measuring it with a ruler or tape. Chain links should be exactly 1", so if 12 links measure 12.125", the chain is badly warn. Sheldon Brown is more specific about chain maintenance.

You have coaster breaks. sorry, but I don't know anything about them..
posted by Chuckles at 9:49 AM on July 3, 2007

I guess the wobble could also be a bearing problem.. Can you wiggle the wheel side to side? Grip the tire, and push it back and fourth hard. It should be completely rigid, the tiniest little play is okay, but should probably be adjusted. Anything more than a tiny bit means you should probably re-pack it.. And, if there is play, I guess it might be related to your break problem (like I said, I don't know coaster breaks :P).
posted by Chuckles at 9:52 AM on July 3, 2007

What kind of bike shop did you contact? If it's one of the types that caters to the snooty, $2,000-plus bike crowd, they're probably not interested in your cruiser.

I take my vintage schwinns to a local chain that specializes in lower end bikes from Giant, Iron Horse, Diamondback, etc. aimed at people who just need transportation. They're much more interested in helping me keep my old junkers on the road, and the prices are low. I've had wheel work, brake work (cable, though, not coaster) and bottom bracket (crank bearing) work done there, all of which cost less than $30.

Do you have shops like this in your town? Maybe a second opinion is warranted.
posted by M.C. Lo-Carb! at 10:03 AM on July 3, 2007

Clarification - each of these services cost less than $30 apiece.
posted by M.C. Lo-Carb! at 10:04 AM on July 3, 2007

Here is a Park Tools article about servicing coaster breaks, because I decided I wanted to know at least a little about them..
posted by Chuckles at 11:01 AM on July 3, 2007 [2 favorites has favorites]

Looks like the going rate for a used 26" coaster brake wheel on ebay's about $50 before shipping, so $110 sounds maybe a bit high but not too out of control if the shop is ordering a new wheel and doing all the ancillary bits that need to get done to swap it.

Your best bet is to find a shop that caters more to the cruiser and bmx bike set as they might have a used wheel they can sell and install cheap. Or if you're handy, search the thrift stores (and the streets on garbage day) for a cheap/free bike with the right-sized rear wheel and if the brake works and the wheel isn't too out of shape cannibalize that.
posted by Opposite George at 11:23 AM on July 3, 2007

And yeah, of course that's if you can't fix the brakes and truing the wheel doesn't alleviate the wobble.
posted by Opposite George at 11:24 AM on July 3, 2007

I went to the Stanford (as in the college) bike shop, and they gave me the quote ($60 for a new wheel, $50 for labor). As for the wobble, yes it does shake even when not moving, so I can grab it and move it side to side. Someone else who saw it said they thought it was a bearing problem (random guy on a train, who I should have asked for his phone number to get more info!).

I have tried finding bike shops in my area (Mountain View and Palo Alto California) but can only find the $2000+ kind, and so none of those seems to be a good place to find a used wheel. Any advice on how I'd go about fixing a bearing problem myself? Is a new wheel always necessary for this?
posted by LoopyG at 11:28 AM on July 3, 2007

Coaster brake hubs are really easy to work on and almost never wear out; I worked on them all the time when I was a kid without any instruction; that Park Tool website looks like a good tutorial if you want one; truing the wheel is more difficult and is easier with the right tools, so it might be something to pay to have done. If you want to try it yourself there is a section on that in the park tools site as well.
posted by TedW at 11:36 AM on July 3, 2007

That does sound like a bearing issue then. It could be something as simple as needing to reduce the play (see Park Tool site mentioned above) but if you've been riding on that wobble for a while be prepared to find shot bearings (i.e., scored/worn cups.) How badly damaged a set of bearings you're willing to ride is a personal matter, but keep in mind if they're already shot no adjustment will keep them from getting worse and eventually you'll have to replace the hub.

I'd say it's worth tearing the hub down and giving it a look. If you're lucky and not too picky, you can keep going on shot hubs for quite a while (assuming you can fix the brakes.) Even a teardown followed by a rebuild with lots of greaseand new bearing balls can help. At the very least you should try tightening the cone nuts down (but not too much -- look at that web site!) to see if that eliminates the wobble.
posted by Opposite George at 4:24 PM on July 3, 2007

OK, not at all sure I can rebuild the hub once I tear it down... but i'll read the site and give it a try. I found a friendly bike shop today (after asking about 30 people at the office!) that have a how-to-fix-your-bike class every wednesday. I may go there tomorrow and find out. But that Park Tool website seems very helpful, thanks a million guys!
posted by LoopyG at 8:12 PM on July 3, 2007

Sheldon Brown on cone adjustment - his site is a great resource.

If professional service is going to be more expensive than a replacement, I wouldn't miss the opportunity to pull it apart :)
posted by Chuckles at 11:23 PM on July 3, 2007